Amman

From MaxTravelz

A view of eastern Amman from the Citadel atop Jabal al-Qal'a

Amman is the capital and largest city of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan (population c. 1.2 million). Although not the most interesting or beautiful of Middle Eastern capital cities, Amman nonetheless forms a great base for exploring the country and does, in fact, hold a few items of interest to the traveller. The city is generally well-appointed for the traveller and the people are very friendly.

Understand

A modern city built of white stone, Amman's growth has skyrocketed since it was made the capital of Trans-Jordan in the early 1920s.

Its history, however, goes back many millennia. The settlement mentioned in the Bible as Rabbath Ammon was the capital of the Ammonites, which later fell to the Assyrians. It was dominated briefly by the Nabataeans before it became a great Roman trade center and was renamed Philadelphia.

Today, Amman is a lively, modern city. While possessing few sites itself, Amman makes a comfortable base from which to explore the northwestern parts of the country.

Get in

By plane

Most travellers to Amman (and to Jordan) will arrive via Queen Alia International Airport. Entry visas to Jordan can be purchased at the airport, if not already obtained from a Jordanian consulate overseas. The price of visa varies on a regular basis, but generally costs less than 20 Jordanian Dinars ($29).

See

Although the capital of a diverse kingdom, Amman is not what one would call "packed" with things to see, making it a great gateway to explorations further afield. Even so, the city does hold a few items of historical and cultural interest (allow maximum 2 days to see them).

• the Roman Theatre
• the Citadel (Jabal al-Qal'a) - located in the centre of both ancient and modern Amman.
  • the Temple of Herakles - Roman period remains
  • the Byzantine Church - dating to the 5th-6th centuries
  • the Ummayad Palace - situated in the northern portion of the Citadel
  • the National Archaeological Museum - situated on the Citadel, the museum is a small but interesting collection of antiquities from all over Jordan including some of the fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls.
• Darat al Funun or 'small house of the arts' in Jabal el Weibdeh, overlooking the heart of Amman, is housed in three adjacent villas from the 1920s (and the remains of a six century Byzantine church built over a Roman Temple), it has a permanent collection and also holds changing exhibitions. In the same area there are other small art galleries and the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts.
• Rainbow St. near the 1st Circle in Jabal Amman is an interesting area to walk around and explore, it is named after the old Rainbow Cinema which is now out of use, but the area has been recently experiencing a revival with many of the old houses being restored and put into use, in the area there are some cafes and bars including Books@cafe and Wild Jordan both with great views, a Hammam, the Royal Film Commission which sometimes holds outdoor screenings on its patio and some interesting small shops.

Do

Due to excellerated growth the past several decades, the styles of living differs considerably as one travels from east to west throughout Amman. Visitors desiring to experience "Old Amman" should explore the central downtown, or Balad, which features numerous souqs, shops, and street vendors.

Buy

Amman is has numerous antique dealers littered throughout the city. Those located in the western parts of the city will most likely be serviced by those with a competent grasp of the English language, but you run the risk of the items being a bit overpriced. For the more adventurous, some of the best tourist shopping can be done in downtown Amman (the Balad). Shopping in the Balad has a more primative feel with shop after shop filled with wares and prices not always clearly marked and extremely negotiable.

Some interesting, original souvenier items that one may consider taking home are:

• a keffiyeh, the traditional checkered headpiece of Jordanian men
• an antique brass tea/coffee pot, distinctly Middle Eastern with its artistic etching and curved spout
• olive wood carvings of various objects or figures can be purchase nearly everywhere
• hand-crafted Jordanian daggers
• hand-made Bedouin-style embroidered clothing

For the coffee lover, Amman's Starbucks locations (Swefieh, Adboun, Mecca Mall) offer various mugs, tumblers, and to-go cups with distinctive Jordanian and Middle Eastern flair.

Eat

Amman features many different styles of restaurants, from traditional Middle Eastern fare to more familiar Western fast food and franchises. Prices range from ultra-cheap to moderate, depending on one's taste buds. For those on a budget, Arabic food is very affordable and can be obtained everywhere.

Arabic food generally consists of several general basic groups. Meat dishes will generally consist of lamb or chicken; beef is more rare and pork is never offered. Shwarma, which is cooked lamb meat with a special sauce rolled in piece of flat bread, is a local favorite. Rice and flat bread are typical sides to any meal. Jordan's specialty, mansaf, is a delicious chicken and rice meal, typically eaten with one's hands. Arabs serve plenty of cucumbers and tomatos, many times accompanied by a plain white yogurt condiment. Another favorite is chick pea-based foods such as falafel, humous, and fuul.

Sleep

Amman has the full range of accommodation options from very basic 1 star accommodation to luxurious 5 star facilities.

Budget

Mid-range

• Radisson SAS - a decent hotel located only a short ride from the 3rd circle.

Splurge

• Four Seasons Amman , 5th Circle, Al-Kindi Street, Jabal Amman, tel 962 06 550-5555, fax 962 06 550-5556 - a wonderful luxury hotel located conveniently on the 5th Circle.
• Kempinski Amman , Abdul Hameed Shouman Street, Shmeisani, tel +962 6 5200 200, tel +962 6 5200 202 - a recent addition to the city: all the luxury of a 5 star with a number of interesting modern art features in the designer building.
• Hyatt Amman - a favourite of the expat set for its laid back ambience, terrace views and quality restaurants. Located at 3rd Circle.
• Intercontinental Amman - another hotel popular with foreign professionals. Conveniently located between the 2nd and 3rd Circles.
• Le Royal Hotel - Amman's largest hotel by a distance and a folly of overblown kitsch. The cathedral like space in the centre of the building always seems desperately low on guests. Architecturally interesting, but curiously soulless and poor value for money. Located at 3rd Circle.
• Sheraton Amman - another five-star. Conveniently located on the 5th Circle.

Get out

Amman makes a convenient base for day trips to:

• Madaba
• Jerash (and Ajlun)
• the Dead Sea (including Mount Nebo and the Baptism Site at the Jordan River)