Chiang Mai

From MaxTravelz

Chiang Mai (เชียงใหม่) is the gateway to Northern Thailand. With a population of over 200,000 and growing, Chiang Mai is Thailand's largest city after Bangkok. With a cosmopolitan air and a significant expat population, it's much greener and quieter than Bangkok, factors which have led many Thai visitors from Bangkok to settle permanently in this "Rose of the North". Located on a plain surrounded by mountains, the peak of Doi Suthep looms just 13 kilometers away and looks over the city and surrounding lush countryside.

Contents 1 Understand 1.1 Orientation 2 Get in 2.1 By plane 2.2 By bus 2.3 By train 3 Get around 3.1 By songthaew 3.2 By tuk-tuk or samlor 3.3 By taxi 3.4 By bus 3.5 By motorcycle 4 See 4.1 Museums 4.2 Buddhist Temples 4.3 Festivals 4.4 Other 5 Do 5.1 Nightlife 5.2 Bars and pubs 5.3 Live music 5.4 Nightclubs 5.5 Sport & Leisure 6 Learn 6.1 Academic Institutions 6.2 Buddhism 6.3 Thai Cooking Schools 6.4 Thai Language Courses 7 Buy 8 Eat 8.1 Budget 8.2 Mid-range 8.3 Splurge 9 Sleep 9.1 Budget 9.2 Mid-range 9.3 Splurge 10 Stay safe 11 Stay healthy 11.1 Hospitals 11.2 Dentists 12 Communicate 13 Get out 14 Contact

Understand

Amidst the rolling foot hills of the Himalayan Mountains some 800 kilometers north of Bangkok is the culturally rich city of Chiang Mai, the longest continuously inhabited settlement from the ancient days of Siam. Founded in 1296 AD, it was isolated from Bangkok and could only be reached by an arduous river journey or an elephant back trip until the 1920's. Such isolation has helped keep Chiang Mai's distinctive charm intact to this day.

Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more then 30 temples dating back to the founding of the principality in 1296. Doi Suthep temple, overlooking the city from a 3500-foot mountain top, is a shrine to both Thai and foreign visitors. These temples are a combination of Burmese, Sri Lankan, and Lanna Thai styles decorated with beautiful wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians, gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree.

Orientation

Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city (chiang in Thai, hence Chiang Mai - "New Walled City"). Sections of the wall remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains. Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east towards the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping), where you'll find Thanon Chang Khlan, the famous Night Bazaar and the bulk of Chiang Mai's hotels and guesthouses. The locals have a saying that you have not experienced Chiang Mai unless you have seen the view from Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of Kao Soi and purchased an umbrella from Bo Song.

Get in

By plane

Chiang Mai International Airport (CNX) handles both domestic and regional international flights. The route from Bangkok is among the most heavily travelled in the country (Thai Airways flies daily almost every hour, with additional flights in the peak tourist season). Other airlines operating direct services from/to Chiang Mai include:

• Air Asia - from/to Bangkok; also Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia)
• Air Mandalay - from/to Myanmar
• Bangkok Airways - to Ko Samui (flights from Ko Samui are indirect) and from/to Sukhothai; also Jinghong (China)
• Lao Aviation - from/to Laos
• Nok Air - from/to Bangkok & Udon Thani
• One-Two-Go (part of Orient Thai Airlines ) from/to Bangkok
• Silk Air - from/to Singapore
• Thai Airways - from/to Bangkok and Mae Hong Son; also Kunming (China); in addition, flights from and/or to Phuket & possibly Nan may also be available seasonally
• Tiger Airways - from/to Singapore

The airport is some 3 km south-west of the city centre, only 10-15 minutes away by car. Legal airport taxis charge a flat 140 baht for up to 5 passengers anywhere in the city; if you take a metered taxi the price will be under 100 baht. The taxis operate from the exit at the north end of the terminal - after baggage claim and/or customs walk into the reception hall and turn left. Alternatively, charter a tuk-tuk or songthaew for 50-60 baht. Most hotels and guesthouses offer cheap or free pick-up/drop-off services.

By bus

Buses to Chiang Mai leave from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Moh Chit). The cheapest, non-aircon, stop-everywhere government buses take around 12 hours; non-stop VIP 24-seaters manage the trip in 9 hours on a good day. Chiang Mai also has bus connections practically everywhere in the North.

By train

Various rapid, express and sleeper services leave from Hualamphong, taking 11+ hours for the trip. The day trains have only second and third class, with no sleeper berths; the Sprinter trains are second class only, also with no sleeping berths.

The evening trains have air-con and non-aircon second class sleeper cars, which are very popular, safe, comfortable and fun; those who do not wish to share a crowded bathroom can book a private first class two-berth cabin (the attendant cleans the first class bathrooms frequently). In second class sleepers, the lower berth is wider than the upper berth, it's also more expensive.

Tickets can be purchased up to 60 days in advance; advance booking is advisable, especially between November and March. Train timetables and prices

Get around

Chiang Mai now has a new large air conditioned bus service. You can see these nice air conditioned white buses all over the major city routes. There are also pedicabs called samlor; the 3-wheeled tuk-tuk; and the most popular, the songthaew.

By songthaew

The most common way to get around Chiang Mai is by songthaew. These are covered pick-up trucks with two benches in the back, and indeed the name means "two benches" in Thai. You will see them everywhere, and it's easy to get them to pick you up. All you need to do is to put your arm out and look at the driver, and they will stop. Then tell the driver which street you want to go to, and if he is going that way, he will nod his head "yes"; if not, he will say "no" and go on. Don't worry - there will be another one right behind him. When the driver turns down the street you want, start looking for where you want to get off and press the switch located on the roof of the cab. The driver will pull over, let you out, and then you pay him. The fare should be 15 baht for regular trips around town. If you specify a hotel or establishment, the driver will think you want to hire him for a private trip, and the price will be much higher. Negotiate any price beforehand if you want to go to a specific address. The best way to avoid this "charter" situation is to discuss your destination and not the price; asking for a price is interpreted as asking for a charter. Then, when you dismount and go to pay, hand the driver the correct change. If the driver demands more, then it is up to you to work out a fair payment, but armed with this information, you should have a reasonable idea of the proper fare, and that will aid you in your bargaining.

The colour of the paint on a songthaew indicates the general route or usage of a songthaew. Most common by far are red songthaews, which roam the main streets in the city itself. Warorot Market (by the Ping River) is the most common terminus for songthaews that travel along fixed routes. From Warorot Market, white songthaews travel to the eastern suburban city of Sankampaeng, yellow songthaews travel to Mae Rim in the north, blue songthaews travel to Sarapee and Lamphun in the south, and green songthaews travel to Mae Jo in the north-east. The flat rate cost along these fixed routes is 10-20 baht.

From Pratu Chiang Mai market, songthaews also travel to Hang Dong and San Patong, to the south-west of Chiang Mai. The flat rate cost to Hang Dong is 20 baht; more to San Patong.

You may see songthaews out on the highways in the countryside, travelling to and from small towns and villages. It is probably not proper for them to do this (as such travel is supposed to be done by bus companies), but in Thailand people will find a way to make some extra money.

By tuk-tuk or samlor

Tuk-tuks serve as Chiang Mai's taxis, going point to point for 30 baht and up depending on your haggling skills. A few three-wheeled bicycles (samlor) still cruise the streets and will go your way for the same price, which is a great way to see the inner city temples. Try taking a samlor from Wat Prasing Temple to Wat Chedi Luang Temple in the early evening around sunset, or around the inner city at sunrise to see the monks walking around with their bowls collecting alms from the citizens.

By taxi

Chiang Mai has finally introduced Bangkok-style metered taxis, although as of early 2005 there were only 15 plying the streets (versus 2700 songthaews). By early 2006, there were over 45 of the blue and yellow metered taxis, with the number growing monthly. Rates are very reasonable at 30 baht for the first 2 km and 4 baht/km after that. Dial 053279291 for advance bookings, which are particularly useful when going to the airport (100 baht flat fare).

By bus

Chiang Mai's on-again, off-again local bus service began operation again in November 2005 - enquire locally for routes and further information.

By motorcycle

Chiang Mai has an abundance of motorcycle rental services, with choices aplenty. Typical Asian motorbikes can be rented, such as Honda and Yamaha 110cc and 125cc models (both step-through and automatic), but off-road bikes and larger street bikes can also be found quite easily. Renting a small bike starts at around 200 baht per day with insurance, and the larger machines can climb to 800 B/day for a V-twin chopper or large sport-bike, also with insurance. Expect discounts when renting for several days. Passports are usually taken as a deposit, although some shops will accept a photocopy with a cash deposit of a few thousand baht. As with any other tourist town in Thailand (with the excpetion of Bangkok), a valid international license isn't required by the rental shop; however, if you find yourself stopped by the police for whatever reason, be prepared to discreetly pay a small "mai pen rai" fee of at least 200 baht.

See

Museums

• Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Center.

The cultural center is located in the very centre of the old city on Prapokklao Road between Rajdumnern Road and Rajwithee Road. If travelling by tuk-tuk or songthaew, it's easiest to ask for the "Three Kings Monument" (Saam Kasat). The cultural centre is in the large, elegant white building just behind the statue.

Walk to the front entrance behind the Three Kings Monument into this fully modernised multimedia history and cultural education centre. Guides dressed in elegant traditional Thai clothing will usher you into an air-conditioned room to watch an English-subtitled orientation video about Chiang Mai and the north. Next, you will be pointed to a series of rooms documenting the region's history and culture in chronological order from the pre-Muang period (7,000-12,000 years ago) to the early river civilizations, to the early kings through the wars with the Burmese and the last dynasty, to the city today and its plans for the future. Other rooms are devoted to Buddhism and other regional beliefs, agricultural history, hill tribe peoples and other regional cultures, and a run-down of the royal dynasties. The exhibits consist of a smart visual mix of video, scale models, enlarged photos, wall murals and text in Thai and English. The museum is open 08:30-17:00 except Mondays. Admission is 90 baht. +66-53217793

• Hilltribe Research Institute Museum

Founded in 1965 as a result of a proposal by the noted anthropologist Prof. W.R. Geddes, who was doing research with the hilltribe peoples at the time, the Institute Museum offers exhibits concerning the lives and cultures of nine Hilltribe peoples in Thailand: the Akha, Lahu, Lisu, Yao, Hmong, Karen, Lua, Khamu, and H'tin. Also included are a non-hilltribe ethnic minority, the Mlabri, associated by some with the 'spirit of the yellow leaves'. The Mlabri population has dwindled to only approximately 180 individuals at present.

The daily lives of the various hilltribe peoples are illustrated through exhibits of photographs, agricultural implements, household utensils, artefacts associated with the various traditional religions, musical instruments, and ethnic costumes. Some exhibits include models dressed in complete traditional costumes depicting daily activities, such as a Hmong family having a meal or a Lisu man serenading his sweetheart.

The Institute has established a new museum in a three-story pavilion located on the attractively landscaped grounds of Ratchamangkala Park (Suan Lor Gao) on Chotana Road, just a fifteen minute drive from the city centre. At present the museum is open weekdays 09:00-16:00, with a slide and video show available daily 10:00-14:00. Special group tours at weekends are possible with advance notice. For more information please contact the Hilltribe Institute Museum, Chotana Road, Ampher Muang, Chiangmai, 50000 +66-53210872 / +66-53211933

Buddhist Temples

Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai show off a mixture of architectural styles that reflect the varied heritage of Northern Thailand. Elements from Lanna Thai, Burmese, Sri Lankan and Mon temples have all been used in one form or another. Intricate woodcarvings and protective Naga serpent staircases add a flamboyance that reflects an awesome reverence for the Buddhist religion. Gilded umbrellas, guardian figures from the tales of the Ramayana and stupas trimmed with gold filigree combine to heighten the overall effect.

To date, there have been some 300 temples constructed in Chiang Mai an its outskirts. Visitors should take the time to visit the most revered temples in the city, built during the noble Lanna Thai dynasty. The largest ones draw crowds, but it's well worth wandering off the beaten path and finding a temple not on the tour bus circuit.

The Thai patrons of Chiang Mai's temples are pleased to see that visitors take an interest in the images and traditions of Lord Buddha's teachings. All that they ask is that temple visitors show respect by wearing appropriate attire (long pants for men, modest tops and skirts for women, no bare shoulders and women must wear a brassier) so that monks and worshippers will not be offended within the sacred temple grounds.

• Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, . Established in 1383 and perched on a hilltop overlooking the city, this magnificent temple is famous for its large gold-plated chedi, visible from the city on a good clear day. Although Wat Doi Suthep is the most recently built of the temples dating from the Lanna Thai period, it is the symbol of Chiang Mai. The site was selected by sending an elephant to roam at will up the mountainside. When it reached this spot, it trumpeted, circled three times, and knelt down - which was interpreted as a sign indicating an auspicious site. Entrance to the temple is free for those who wish to climb the 300-plus steps; alternatively, there's a cable car with a 50 baht fare for foreigners. Clearly marked songthaews to Doi Suthep leave from Pratu Chang Phuak, passing Chiang Mai University and the zoo on the way. Prices are fixed at 40 baht up and 30 baht down; the drivers wait until they have sufficient (up to 8) passengers before they depart. The trip takes about 30 minutes one way. Alternatively, the 12kms (often up hill) journey can be made by motorcycle.

• Wat Phra Singh is located in the centre of the city at the intersection of Singharaj and Rajdamnern Road (west end) and is probably Chiang Mai's best-known temple, housing the Phra Singh image, completed between 1385 and 1400. Of particular note historically is Wihaan Lai Kham in the back, featuring Lanna-style temple murals and intricate gold patterns on red lacquer behind the altar. The large chedi was built in 1345 by King Pha Yu to house the remains of his father King Kam Fu. A typical scripture repository is located at this temple as well. These repositories were designed to keep and protect the delicate sa or mulberry paper sheets used by monks and scribes to keep records and write down folklore. The high stucco-covered stone base of the repository protected the delicate scriptures from the rain, floods and pests. The walls of the chapel are covered with murals illustrating Lanna customs, dress, and scenes from daily life. The lovely Lai Kam chapel houses the revered Phra Singh Buddha image. Sadly, the head was stolen in 1922, and a reproduction is now seen.

• Wat Chiang Mun, located within the walled city on Rajpakinai Road, is the oldest temple in the city, presumed to date from the year Chiang Mai was founded (1296). Famed for two Buddha images, which according to legend are 1800 and 2500 years old. King Mengrai allegedly lived here while the city of Chiang Mai was being constructed. Enshrined in Wat Chiang Mun is a tiny crystal Buddha called Pra Seh-Taang Kamaneeee, which is thought to have the power to bring rain. Another image, called Phra Sila Khoa, reflects the fine workmanship of Indian craftsmen from thousands of years ago.

• Wat Chedi Luang, located directly in Chiang Mai centre on Prapokklao Road, is the side of a formerly massive pagoda that was unfortunately destroyed in the great earthquake of 1545. The temple was originally constructed in 1401 by the orders of King Saeng Muang Ma. In 1454, reigning King Tilo-Garaj enlarged the chedi (pronounced jedee) to a height of 86 meters. After the earthquake, the chedi lay in ruins until 1991, when it was reconstructed at a cost of several million baht. The reconstructed chedia was finished in 1992, and it is every bit as impressive as it was when it was first built. The chedi that towers into the sky at this wat is a magnificent testament to Lanna (northern Thai) architecture and art, and as such is one of Chiang Mai's top attractions for tourists. Wat Chedi Luang is also home to another Chiang Mai monument, the "Pillar of the City", a totem used in ancient Thai fertility rites.

• Wat Phra Jao Mengrai off Ratchamankha Road (near Heuan Phen) is atmospheric wooden temple off the beaten track, quiet and gently crumbling in the absence of tourist hordes.

• Wat Oo-Mong is an ancient temple in the forest just outside Chiang Mai, off Suthep Road. King Mengrai built this temple for a highly respected forest monk who liked to wander in the countryside, hence the isolated location where the monk could stay quietly and meditate. The temple is unusual in that it has tunnel like chambers in the ground; if you look closely, some of the walls in the cambers have the original paintings of birds and animals still visible.

Festivals

• Chiang Mai Flower Festival, every year during the first weekend in February. The city is awash with vibrant colors ranging from the electric orange and lilac colors of the bougainvillea to the velvety blossoms of petunias in all shades of pink, white and purple. The strident red of the poinsettias, bought by many at Christmas and New Years, is echoed by beds of scarlet salvias. Homes and shop owners alike line the city streets with colourful flower boxes. The sheer profusion of colour that the flower festival and carnival brings to Chiang Mai aptly gives the city its name "Rose of the North".

On all three days of the festival, prize blooms are on display at Suan Buak Haad near the city centre. Every type of flower, miniature tree and orchid is put on display for the judges to choose the best of the species. Landscape specialists put on an elaborate display, which includes patios and waterfalls with exotic decorative plants and flowers.

The best part of the flower festival is on Saturday. The parade lines up from the train station to Narawatt bridge so the police close most of Jarenmuang Road around 08:00. The VIP viewing stand is right next to the bridge in front of the Chiang Mai Governor's home. The parade route goes down Thapae Road to the Gate and turns left and follows the moat to Suan Buak Haad City Park.

The parade moves at a slow pace and stops several times so there is plenty of time to take pictures of the colourful floats, pretty girls and hilltribe people in costume. The people in the parade hand out roses to spectators lining the road.

When the parade finishes everyone heads to Suan Buak Haad where all the floats, award winning flower growers and landscape projects are all on display. There are plenty of food stalls in the park, and in the late afternoon the Miss Chiang Mai Flower festival starts. The party goes well into the evening until the new Flower Festival Queen has been chosen.

This is a great time to visit Chiang Mai, as the air is cool and the evenings fresh and clear. If you want to see the festival make sure you book your hotels and flights well in advance.

• Loi Krathong Festival. If you like candles placed in colourful paper lanterns, fireworks, beautiful girls in traditional dress, parade floats, lots of food, and parties, don't miss the Loi Krathong festival, which in Chiang Mai lasts for 3 full days, the last night being that of the 12th full moon of the year (which is usually in November). In the small town of Mae Jo, north of Chiang Mai, they start the festival on Saturday night by simultaneously launching thousands upon thousands of hot air balloons called "Khom Loy".

• Bo Sang Umbrella & Sankampang Handicrafts Festival, 20th-22nd January at Ban Bo Sang, Sankampang. The festival is in the form of a "street fair" in which the central road of the village is used, with stores on both sides. Stores are decorated in Lanna style, most with the well-known umbrellas, as well as with traditional lanterns. In addition there are contests, exhibitions, cultural performances, local entertainment, and assorted shows day and night. There is a grand procession decorated with umbrellas and local products, a variety of handicrafts for sale, northern-style kantoke meals, and the Miss Bo Sang pageant.

• The 2nd Orchid Fair (January). Orchid market, activities and more - this is the biggest orchid fair of the year.

Other

• Maesa Elephant Camp, 119/9 Tapae Rd., Muang District. +66-53206247 or +66-53206248 . An elephant camp in the hills about a half hour's drive north of the city center. It has an elephant show, which includes elephant football (or soccer) and elephant painting. You can also purchase half hour or one hour elephant rides.

• Bhuping Palace – Located on the same road beyond Doi Suthep (22 kilometre from town). This royal winter palace had lavishly landscaped gardens. Opens to the public on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and official holidays when the the Thai royal family is not in residence. Opening hours – 8.30am to 11.30am and 1pm to 3pm. Admission fee of 50baht for foreigners and 20baht for locals. Child – 10baht.

• Chiangmai Zoo - On the foot of Doi Suthep, it is home to over 7,000 animals in a wooded natural environment. Recently it has become a popular attraction when it received a pair of Giant Pandas from Sichuan, China.

• Night safari
• hot springs
• caves
• puppet shows
• art museum
• orchid and butterfly farms
• water falls

Do

Nightlife

Chiang Mai's nightlife scene is the most happening in the North, although still a far cry from Bangkok's. Chiang Mai is still popular for its nightlife, as well as the charming city and beautiful surrounding countryside. There are discos, karaoke bars, and live music everywhere. Thai people are often as interested in meeting you as you might be in meeting them, but one should exercise discretion and sometimes a bit of caution, especially in matters of the heart. In romantic situations, Westerners and Thais both occasionally get hurt. The best advice is to think with your head AND your heart. Enjoy yourself, but be very adult about any given situation. The two busiest nightlife zones are near Tapae Gate, Loi Kroh Road and along Charoenrat Road on the eastern bank of the Ping River.

Bars and pubs

Most of Chiang Mai's bars and pubs are located along Loi Kroh Road and Moon Muang Road. Here you can find small expat hangouts, go-go bars and sports bars. Most have pool tables, hostesses along with music videos or various sports programs shown on television.

West of the city center, the area around Nimmanhaemin Road is a popular hangout for younger Thais, perhaps due to its proximity to Chiang Mai University. The pubs, as they are called here, tend to straddle a fine line between bar, restaurant and nightclub, and feature loud music interspersed with live bands fronted by musicians who are most likely hitting the books in the daytime. Tourists looking for something racier are better off staying in the east side of town.

• BangRak, Nimmanhaemin Road Soi 6 - Hangout spot for a primarily student crowd. Weekend nights are standing-room only and the clubbing atmosphere is complete; weekday nights are a little slower. Well air-conditioned, and no cover charge, but you'll be expected to purchase some drinks. Open 6PM-1AM.
• Monkey Club, Nimminheimin Road Soi 9 - Another hot spot for the students, with a variety of of live music. Open 5PM-1AM.

Live music

The most visited is along the east bank of the Mae Ping River on Charoenrat road. This is the area famous for jazz, rock, pop, Thai and country and western live music, along with restaurants serving Thai, western, and Chinese food. If you are coming from the center of the city, just walk from the night bazaar across the Narawatt Bridge. From the bridge, you can see all the restaurants along the river on your left. Once you cross the bridge, turn left and, on your right, will be Chiang Mai's first church and a riverside park on your left.

Most bands in Chiang Mai play at one venue for about an hour, and then move on to another restaurant or pub. Don't be surprised if you see a band playing at the Chiang Mai Riverside and, one hour later, at The Good View.

• The Chiang Mai Riverside Restaurant, 9-11 Charoenrat Road +66-53243239 - everyone who has been to Chiang Mai eats at least once here. There is a large menu of Thai and western food. If you want a good homemade hamburger, this is a good place to get one. The live music starts around 19:00 with dinner music from the Eagles, Beatles, or soft jazz. Starting at 21:00, the music changes to more rock and pop songs. Full bar service serving wine, beer, and spirits are available. The Chiang Mai Riverside restaurant gets very crowded, so get here early to get a table. The Riverside also offers a nightly dinner cruise departing at 20:00 for 70 baht/person extra.

• The Good View, 13 Charoenrat Road +66-53241886 - Thai and western varieties of rock, jazz, pop and country music entertain in the evening. Their extensive menu offers more than 150 Thai, Chinese, and western dishes, including curries, noodles, rice, and pizza. Soft drinks and a full bar serving wine, beer, and spirits are available. Again, if you want a good, riverside-view table get there early.

• La Brasserie, 37 Charoenrat Road +66-53241665 - this riverside venue is well known for nightly performances by a talented guitarist named Took and his band, who plays renditions of old Hendrix, Dylan, Marley, Stevie Ray Vaughn, and other favorites. Sit outside in the lush garden setting where acoustic guitar is played (19:00-midnight) or inside at the bar and catch the famous Took and Friends (23:00-02:00). There is also a good selection of cocktails and spirits. Not famous for food but the music is great.

• Tha Chang Jazz Club, 25 Charoenrat Road (next to Gallery Restaurant) +66-53248601 - good for a drink any day, but best visited on Saturdays for live jazz.

Nightclubs

• Bubbles. B1, Porn Ping Tower, 46 Charoen Prathet Road. This would be just another cheesy hotel disco if not for some good DJs and enthusiastic crowds; now it's cheesy, packed and fun hotel disco on weekend nights. Cover 100 baht including one drink, open until 02:00.

• Spicy is a good after hours place with good drinks, dancing and lots of local good looking girls looking to party :)

• Discovery Opposite Kad Suan Kaew shopping centre and Lotus Pang Suan Kaew Hotel. Small club with live band, DJ and huge screens showing music videos - good for drinking night and letting loose. Bring ID/passport as they can be strict with entry especially on weekend nights.

Sport & Leisure

Chiang Mai is a popular place for arranging hill trekking. As usual in Thai cities massage places abound, both for treatments and for learning the art yourself, and cooking schools are also popular.

• Let's Relax, 2F Chiang Mai Pavilion and B1F Chiang Inn Plaza, Chang Khlan Road, does professional massage in very clean if not downright sterile surroundings complete with air-con, the sound of running water and gentle scents. A 45-minute foot reflexology session costs 350 baht, nearly twice the price of the competition, but is worth every satang after a long trek.
• golf
• tennis
• ballooning
• tennis
• go karts
• elephant riding
• flying
• horse riding
• rafting
• fitness centres
• walking or bicycling with the city walls
• Lanna Muay Thai on Soi Chiang Khian, off Huay Kaew Road coaches the energetic and adventurous in the the national sport of Thailand, Muay Thai (Thai boxing).
• Kawila Boxing Stadium not far from Narawat Bridge, has real Muay Thai fights every Friday at 20:00 consisting of 10 fights ranging from young debutant fighters, local champions and fights between locals and foreigners. Entry is 400 baths (as of March 2006).

Learn

Academic Institutions

A large area of land in the northwest is home to Chiang Mai University , one of Thailand's most prestigious institutions of higher education with around 25,000 undergraduate and graduate students. Its main campus is situated at the base of Doi Suthep, and CMU buildings can be seen all the way up to Suandok Gate at the west end of the city's center.

Buddhism

• Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep (under See) offers short and long courses in Buddhist meditation.

• Wat Umong, Tambon Suthep, Amphoe Muang (3 and a half miles out of town) +66-53277248 (08:30-16:00) offers meditation courses and Dharma instruction in English every Sunday 15:00-18:00.

• Wat Ram Poeng, Tambon Suthep, Amphoe Muang (4 miles south-west of the city) +66-53278620 offers facilities for retreats and meditation instruction.

• Wat Chom Tong, Tambon Ban Luang, Amphoe Chom Tong (about 60 km south-west of the city) +66-53826869 / +66-53826180 is the home temple of the meditation master Achan Tong, and offers residential courses in Vipassana Meditation on an on-going basis.

Thai Cooking Schools

• Baan Thai Cookery School at 11 Ratchadamnoen Road, Soi 5, near Thapae Gate +66-53357339 / +66-16714120 - market tour, cook book.

• Chiang Mai Kitchen Cooking School +66-97002099 - is just 20 minutes from downtown Chiang Mai, and offers a fresh approach to Thai cooking instruction. The organic herb and vegetable garden supplements ingredients are purchased at the morning market. Before and/or after your day in the kitchen, stay overnight in their charming, traditional Thai bamboo house.

• Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School at 1-3 Moon Muang Road +66-53206388 (fax: +66-53206387) offers 1/2/3 day courses. Recommended by Lonely Planet, Let's Go, Rough Guide, Frommer's and Stefan Loose guide books.

• Gap's School Of Thai Culinary Art has its office at Gap's House, 3 Rajadamnern Soi 4 +66-53270143 - high standards, proper organisation, your own stove, 1 teacher per 5 students.

• Sompet Cookery School, 56 Patan Road +66-53214897 - learn to cook the way Thai people do - at home. Visit their riverside home and learn to cook traditional Thai food. They have courses every day, morning and afternoon. A recipe book with colour photographs will be provided of each dish to suggest the many ways to prepare and serve Thai food.

• A Lot Of Thai Cooking School - +66-53800724 has special equipment for vegetarian and kosher, and provides a recipe book from which you can cook by yourself at a later date.

• Carving lessons - +66-53285056 - learn how to carve on fruit and vegetable, with pictures and notes to take away and refer to later at home.

Thai Language Courses

• The Australia Centre offers Thai language courses of either 30, 60, 90 or 120 hours. These can be either general Thai Language or a specific course according to your purposes.

Thai address is below (useful to show to the tuk-tuk driver):

ศูนย์ออสเตรเลีย เชียงใหม่ (อยู่หลัง มช. ปากทางเข้าศูนย์ฯ ตรงข้ามประตูคณะศึกษาศาสตร์ มช.)75/1 หมู่ 14 ต. สุเทพ อ. เมือง จ. เชียงใหม่ 50200

Australia Centre (Thailand) Ltd. 75/1 M.14 T.Suthep, Muang, Chiang Mai 50200 Tel: 053 810552-3 Fax: 053 810554 Email: chiangmai@insearch.edu.au

Buy

Chiang Mai has great shopping and an internationally renowned night bazaar. There are two very large shopping malls at Airport Plaza and Central Kad Suan Keaw. Both have the shops you would find in large cities in most countries. There are streets with vendor booths that line the streets after dark, selling all types of merchandise at very negotiable prices. You'll find an amazing array of merchandise: antiques, silks, silver, art, electronics, and knock-off and copycat merchandise, such as watches, handbags, and designer label clothing.

• Night Bazaar. Not just a place to shop, but possibly Chiang Mai's largest tourist attraction. This huge market covers a long outdoor stretch of Chang Khlan Road between Tha Phae Road and Si Donchai Road, but the centre of the maelstrom is the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar Building, three stories of shopping under a Thai temple-style roof. Products from northern Thailand and neighboring countries are widely available, especially those associated with Thailand's hill tribes; take all claims with a grain of salt and bargain hard for good prices.

• Sunday Market. Much less publicised than the Night Bazaar, this takes place every - yes - Sunday. Local craftpersons set up stalls along Rajdumnern Road on the inner-east side of the moat near Tapae Gate. Unlike the sellers on Chang Khlan Road, who peddle many fake designer goods, these are real craftpersons. Excellent hand made items are on display to purchase. At the 5 temples on this road you can enjoy real Northern Thai food and snacks. The Sunday Market start around 14:00 and lasts until 22:00. The street is blocked off from traffic so there is plenty of room to walk.

• Warorot Market (กาดหลวง Kad Luang). North of Nawarat Bridge and west of the Ping River between Thapae Roads and Chang Moi Road, this sprawling outdoor market is where the locals shop, and is well worth a visit for those who enjoy shopping for fabrics, clothes, herbs and spices and hard to find items. It also includes a beautiful flower market and fruit, and out of this world fireworks stands.

Eat

Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat noodles in curry broth with chicken or beef. For those tired of eating rice or noodles there's also a wide range of excellent western food restaurant in Chiang Mai, from cheap hamburger stands to elaborate Italian eateries.

Dress Code: You are in a tropical country so daytime wear of shorts, T-shirt, etc. is quite OK; however you'll earn bonus points if you look clean and tidy. Thai people (even the poorest) take pride in personal cleanliness and appearance (look at school kids and college students) so the "unkempt" style of some visitors is not appreciated. In the evenings long trousers (dress or skirt for ladies) with a neat shirt/blouse, shoes with socks for men and nice shoes for women (no flip-flops) are a must if you wish to enter a nice restaurant and get a good seat. The nicer you dress the better the table and service. If not you might get a table next to the bathroom, in a corner away from the view or in front of a loud music speaker.

Chanchao's Chiang Mai Food Review is a good source of information on the fast-changing culinary scene.

Budget

Thai Food

• Anusarn Market, Chang Khlan Road (same side of road as "Galare Food Centre" but much further up beyond Loi Kroh crossroad towards Sri Dornchai) is a busy outdoor night market with lots of little Thai restaurants and food vendors. Great atmosphere and cheap.

• Galare Food Centre, Chang Khlan Road (opposite the Night Bazaar Building), has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with coupons; most mains 20-50 baht.

• Re-Feel Cafe, 48/4-5 Rachavithi Rd. offers great (cheap) Thai food, good atmosphere, friendly staff and free billiards.

• Kuaytiaw Reua Koliang, Moon Muang Road (near Ratchamankha Road; no English sign) serves authentic kuaytiow reua (literally "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). Contrary to Lonely Planet's claims the accompanying veggies are kailan, not ganja, but it's good stuff anyway at 25 baht a pop.

Western Food

• Mike's Hamburger Stand, on the corner of Chaiyapoom Road and Chang Moi Road (along the east side of the moat); and on Nimmanhaemin Road (across from Soi 11). Open 9AM-3PM. Mike's is a brightly-lit, "old-school" joint with at least two locations in Chiang Mai. It's nothing fancy - just stools and a counter in an open shop. Real good hamburgers for 60 baht, excellent onion rings. If you're tired of rice and noodles this is nice place to stop for lunch while walking around town, and an even better place to fill your stomach on the way home from the bars. Bacon, or ham and egg sandwiches on the breakfast menu.

• Fish'N'chips Shop, Ratchawitee Road +66-53418210. Fresh, crispy. The name says it all.

Mid-range

On the east bank of the Ping River north of Nawarat Bridge is a cluster of restaurants that double up as nightlife spots - see the listings under Drink

Thai food

• Heuan Phen, 112 Ratchamankha Road. A specialist in Northern Thai food, popular with Thais and foreigners alike. Lunch in the air-conditioned hall is decent enough, but dinner in the profusely decorated old house in the back is little short of magical. Best of all is the price: a bowl of khanom jiin naam ngiaw (Shan-style pork rib noodles), a plate of som tum (green papaya salad) and some sticky rice will still leave you change from 50 baht! Open daily 08:00-15:00 & 17:00-22:00.

Western Food

• Amazing Sandwhich 20/2 Huay Kaew Road (north-west corner of the moat, opposite the Chaing Mai Orchid Hotel. Two other locations in the city as well. Open daily 8am to 8pm (Sunday close 4pm). Choose from a million and one items on their list and they'll build a sandwhich for you your way. The also serve breakfasts and have bagels.

• The Dukes +66-53249231 is located 50 meters north of the Tourism Authority of Thailand office at 49/4-5 Chiang Mai - Lumpoon Road south of the Narawat bridge on the east side of the Ping River. Excellent home cooking style dishes and deserts. Full Bar with local and imported beers and wines. Great family atmosphere, no loud music or entertainment just good food.

• El Toro Restaurant & Pub, 5/2 Loi Kroh Road. New Mexico style Mexican food at its finest prepared by experienced cook. FREE food from 17:00-19:00 every Friday.

• Chiang Mai Kebab, 69/4 Kotchasarn Road +66-71881832 - chicken, beef kebab, salad, Pita bread, falafel, samosa, vegetarian. 17:00-midnight.

• O'Malley's Irish Restaurant, Anusarn Market, 149-14/15 Changklan Road +66-53271921 - international cuisine and Guinness on tap.

• The Meeting Restaurant & Café, 6/1 Soi 1, Kotchasarn Road. Have a talk with the friendly managers. Closed Sundays.

Vegetarian

• Khun Churn, 120/2 Nimmanhemin Road, Soi 7 +66-53224124 - Thai vegetarian. Open 09:30-14:30 & 17:30-22:00, closed the 16th of every month.

Splurge

Thai Food

When you come to Chiang Mai you should take in a traditional Khantoke dinner and show. This is not just for tourists as the Northern Thai people have been enjoying the Khantoke dinner for centuries. There are also many garden restaurants where you can enjoy an excellent Thai meal in a beautiful setting.

• Khum Khantoke, located in Chiang Mai Business Park +66-53304121 - be entertained while you dine on traditional North Thailand Cuisine. Reservations are a good idea to get a good seat. Family style all you can eat 350 baht. Nightly 19:00-22:00.

• Old Chiang Mai Culture Center 185/3 Wualai Road +66-53275097 - the first commercial Khantoke Dinner in Chiang Mai more than 30 years ago. They have the best Northern Thai food of any of the Kantoke establishments however the seating, show and music are not as good as at Khum Khantoke. Nightly 19:00-21:30.

• Baan Rom Mai Garden Restaurant, Changklan Plaza, 191/12 Changklan Road +66-53820031 /2. Open daily 10:00-midnight.

• Galae Garden Restaurant, at the end of Suthep Road +66-53278655 / +66-53811041 - Doi Suthep foothill location at edge of a sparkling reservoir. Thai & Northern Thai food and grilled specialties in delightful outdoors.

• Le Grand Lanna Garden Restaurant, 51/3 Sankampaeng Road +66-53262569 is a definite MUST SEE for its architectural teak splendor. Open daily.

• Palaad Tawanron Garden Restaurant, on a reservoir. Thai and English food. Wat Fai Hin behind CHiang Mai University, Suthep Road +66-53216576 / +66-53216039

• Saenkham Terrace Garden Restaurant, Clubhouse Ban Naifan 2, 199/163 T. Maehea +66-53838990 - open daily 11:00-22:00.

Western Food

• Fillmore Eeast Bar & Grill, Charernrasd Road +66-53262416 - seating on two dining terraces facing Mae Ping river. Delicious USDA Beef, lamb, veal, chops, burgers. Excellent homemade deserts such as pecan, pumpkin and apple pie with large choice of toppings. The bar is separate from the riverside dinning area so you can enjoy a romantic dinner in peace.

• Piccola Roma Palace Italian Restaurant, at corner of Charoenprathet Road & Sri Donchai Road near Chiang Mai Plaza Hotel +66-53820297 / +66-53271256 - open lunch & dinner. An unforgettable dining experience amid beautiful surroundings. Serving residents over 15 years.

• The Mango Tree Café, 8/2-3 Loi Kroh Road +66-53208292 - open 07:00-22:30. Top quality Thai & Western cuisine. Sunday Roast Lamb.

• Alois Bavarian Restaurant, Soi 8, Phrapoklao Road +66-53278515 - authentic Bavarian specialties - open Tuesday-Sunday, 11:30-23:00.

• The House, 199 Moonmuang Road +66-53419011 - old 1930's colonial style house in town center. Pacific rim & fusion food. Open 18:00.

Vegetarian

• Whole Earth, 88 Sridonchai Road +66-53282463 - open 11:00-21:00.

Sleep

Accommodation in Chiang Mai is generally cheap even by Thai standards. All types of lodging are available from inexpensive guest-houses with little or no service and the typical high rise hotels and elaborate garden resorts. The latest boom is in the Thai style boutique resort located near the old city center. Several have been built since mid 2005 and offer excellent service in a quiet garden setting. Most of these are fairly small with a little as 8 rooms with a pool and decorated with Thai Crafts and Antiques.

Some of the cheaper accommodation will expect you to purchase their trekking package. So if you stay at a budget place, it may be wise to ask about their trekking package before you agree to stay. Some will refuse to have you unless you do a trek with them.

Budget

• Eagle House ,16 Changmoi Gao Road, Soi 3, Tel : (+66-53) 874 126.24 hour fax : (+66-53) 874 366

• Golden Fern Guest House,20 Soi 8 Th Phra Pokklao (southeast inner moat), Tel. 66 (0) 53 277665

• Julie Guesthouse, 7/1 Prapokklao Road Soi 5 +66-53274355 - familiar and chilly Guesthouse located in a quiet part of the Old City 5 minutes from Tha Phae Gate. Fan rooms with or without bathroom (100-300 baht), restaurant (Thai and Western Food) and Adventure-Tour specialized travel agency.

• Hollanda Montri Guesthouse, 365 Charoenrat Road (bit north on same road as The Riverside and Good View) +66-53242450 - family style guesthouse with a tropical garden on the banks of the Mae Ping River, 10 minutes from the center of town. Fan/air-con rooms 280/380 baht.

• Home Place Hotel, 9 Soi 6 Tapae Rd. +66 -53276468 offers double-bed rooms and twin-bed rooms with fan or air-con (250-450 baat). All rooms have hot shower and cable television. It's very clean and staff is quite friendly.

• Marlboro/Joe Guest House, 138 Sithiwongse Road +66-532325989 - clean and cheap guest house, more like a small family run hotel that really makes you feel at home.

• Pachkit House, 8/1 Arak Road Soi 7 - New, modern, spacious and clean family-run guesthouse/apartment in the Old City. 15 minutes walk to Chiang Mai Ram Hospital and Central Kad Suan Kaew Department Store. Bathroom in every room with hot/cold shower; each room has fridge, TV with cable and free 512 Kbps ADSL hook-up. There are also a few computers for free internet use in the cafe next to reception. Rates from 350-550 Baht/day with daily cleaning and sheet change, monthly rental rate also available. Friendly staff looks after guests very well.

• Smile (Guest) House 5 Soi 2 Ratchamankha Road, Prasingh, Muang Chiang Mai, Thailand, Tel. (+66-53) 208661-2 Fax. (+66-53) 208663 Room 300-450Baht.

• The Royal Guest House - Kothchasarn Rd. Soi 4 T.ChangKarn, A.Muang, Tel:(053)282460.

• Wanasit Guesthouse, 6 Ratchamankha Road Soi 8 - modern, clean Guesthouse located in a quiet alley in the historical centre next to the Wat Phra Singh temple.

• You Sabai Guesthouse, Moon Muang Soi 2. Tel: 06-0966439. - You Sabai Home - 8 comfortable, clean and affordable guesthouse rooms (150 – 250 Baht per night), a charming outdoor restaurant that serves up healthy authentic Thai dishes and western breakfast favourites, and assists with a wide variety of traveller arrangements. Visitors staying at the You Sabai guesthouse can avail of free use of an open space to practice Thai massage, yoga, or to meditate in privacy.

Mid-range

• Chiang Mai Gate Hotel,11/10 Suriyawong Rd. (south of the moat),Tel. (66-53) 203895-9

• Lotus Hotel Pang Suan Kaew, 21 Huay Kaew Rd., (northwest corner of the moat)

• River View Lodge, 25 Charoenprathet Road Soi4+66-53271109-10 - Over looking the Ping River. All rooms are twin decorated in Northern Thai style with individually controlled air-conditioning. private shower, telephone and personal safe. Has a beautiful tropical garden with several intimate pavilions, patios and riverside swimming pool. Less than 10 minutes Walking distance to the Night Bazaar . Rates from 1450 for River Side room with balcony.

• Baan Orapin, 150 Charoenrat Road +66-16164016 - this "boutique B&B" with just 6 rooms is in beautifully restored old Thai house set in a small garden. Air-con, hot water and far more character than any hotel in this price range. Walking distance to the Night Bazaar and the riverside restaurants. Rates from 1000 baht for a double.

• Pornping Tower, 46-48 Charoenprathet Road +66-53270099 (fax: +66-53270119) offers not only an amusing name, but slowly fading grandeur at affordable prices. Located near the Night Bazaar, the hotel has a pool and the Bubbles disco, among the most popular in Chiang Mai - and a source of some noise pollution if trying to sleep. The newer and quieter Tower Wing is a bit more expensive than the older Front Wing. 1000 baht and up (with breakfast).

• Rydges Tapae Gate, 22 Chaiyapoom Road, A. Muang +66-53251531 (fax: +66-53251465) - a hotel mainly visited by foreign tourists, in a good location between the old city and the night market (both in walking distance). Some rooms offer wonderful mountain views. It's a good mid-range option with prices starting at 1700 baht (internet rates/ travel agents start at 1400 baht).

• Raming Lodge, 17-19 Loi Kroh Road, T. Chang Klan, A. Muang +66-53271777 (fax: +66-53270039) - great boutique hotel between the night market and the old city. Unique Lanna architecture. No swimming pool. Food at the restaurant is reasonably priced as are the massages (Thai massage 300 baht/hour). Great place to stay with prices starting at 1800 baht (internet rates start at 850 baht).

• YMCA International Hotel,11 Mengrairasmi Semsuk Rd., Tel. +66-53-2218-19, - Tucked away in an area northwest of the moat, the hotel is just a 10 minute tuk-tuk ride away from the Night Bazaar and many tourist venues.

Splurge

• Regent Four Seasons, Mae Rim-Samoeng Old Road +66-53298181 (fax: +66-53298189) - the latest word in luxury, the Regent Chiang Mai is features the service to be expected in a Four Seasons property and set is in the lush and tranquil countryside amid working paddy fields and water buffalo (the downside of this being, obviously, a less than central location). Featuring a spa and Thai cooking classes within its grounds, if it wasn't for all the mystical temples and fabulous bargains to be found within Chiang Mai, you might never want to leave. If you can afford it, look into the residences, otherwise the garden rooms are equally spectacular and well worth the 17000 baht they start at - if you can foot the bill.

• Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi, 51/4 Chiang Mai - Sankampaeng Road Moo 1 T. Tasala A. Muang +66-53888888 - done in the traditional Lanna style of Northern Thailand, this resorts spreads across 60 acres of serene, natural landscapes, incorporating picturesque rice paddies, tropical hardwoods and exotic plantations. The resorts also includes a spa, cooking class, kids club, fitness center, as well as a cultural center. It's truly a unique experience.

• Pacific Mansion (long-term-splurge),16 Hassadhisewee Rd .,T.Changphuak (northwest of the moat),Tel. (+66) 53 404-515,-Within walking distance to the "Central" shopping mall and a ten-minute tuk-tuk ride away from the Night Bazaar. Popular with many Japanese tourists.

• Viangbua Mansion (long-term-splurge), 3/1 Viangbua Rd., Chang Puek, Muang, Chiang Mai +66-53411202 - offers deluxe serviced apartments for daily, weekly and monthly rental. Perhaps one of the most expensive housing options in the city at a monthly rate of Baht 12,000 - 100, 000, but they do offer a wide range of services and some degree of security. Located in a somewhat remote northwest area of the city.

Stay safe

Chiang Mai, like most of Thailand, is quite safe, even at night. The dark streets can look forbidding but crime is rare and tourists shouldn't worry unduly. Obviously, you should take normal precautions, but the city is safe and welcoming for travellers.

Unfortunately some scams from Bangkok have started to rear their ugly head in Chiang Mai as well. Two in particular are worth watching out for: the gem scam, where you are talked into buying near-worthless gems at far above their real value, and the tuk-tuk scam, where a smooth-talking tuk tuk driver tells you that the attraction you want to see is closed, and instead offers you a sightseeing tour for 20 baht (or some similarly unrealistic number) — needless to say, the tour will either consist of nothing but overpriced gift shops, or will smoothly segue into the gem scam. See Bangkok#Stay safe for details.

Stay healthy

Hospitals

• Chiangmai Ram Hospital 8 Boonruangrit Road, Sripoom District (north-west corner of the moat) +66-53224851 / +66-53224861 / fax: +66-53224880 offers state-of-the-art (but a bit pricey) medical care.

• Malaria Centre 18 Boonruangrit Road, T Suthep, A Muang, Chiang Mai 50200. Tel: +66-53 221529, +66-53 894271 Note: Chiang Mai city is considered to be a malaria-free area, however, taking one of the many trekking tours into the hills does place one at risk.

Dentists

• Grace Dental Care Clinic 45 Soi 11 Nimmanhemin Road T.Suthep (north-west corner of the moat, near Chiang Mai University) +66-53894568 /69 offers quality care by a team of specialists.

Communicate

• post office
• internet cafes

Get out

• Chiang Dao, an hour north of the city, is a good starting point for treks into the mountains.
• Chiang Rai,
• Angkhang ,

Contact

Useful Numbers

• Ambulance / Police:
• Fire:
• Rescue Team:
• Tourist police:
• International and domestic operator assisted service:
• Directory enquiry service:

Consulates

• Australia 165 Sirimungklajarn, T. Suthep, A.Muang, Chiang Mai.Tel : (053)219726 or 053400232 Phone: (053)221 083 Fax: (053) 219 726

• Finland104-112 Thapae Road Phone: (053)234 777

• Germany Consul of the Federal Republic of Germany,199/163 Moo 3, Baan Nai Fun2, Kan Klong Chonpretan road, Tambon MaeHia. Amphoe Chiang Mai, Tel.& fax: (053) 838 735

• Great Britain British Consulate,198 Bumrungraj Road, Muang Chiang Mai 50000,Tel: (053) 263015 Fax:66 53 263016, Email: ukconsul@loxinfo.co.th

• India 344 Charoenprathet Rd. 50100,Phone: (053)243 066,Fax:(053)247879

• Japan 8 Watket Road, A.Muang, Chiang Mai. Tel : 302042-3,Phone: (053)302 042 thru 3 or (053)20367,Fax: (053)203368

• South Africa 2nd Floor Chiang Inn Hotel,100 Changklan Road, Amphor MuangChiang Mai 53000,Tel: 0966 53 270070-6 Fax: 0966 53 274299 Mobile: 0966 1 8412629

• USA American Consulate General ,387 Witchayanond Road, Chiang Mai 50300, Thailand,Tel: +66-53252629 Fax: +66-53252633)

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