Cuzco

From MaxTravelz

Cusco (also "Cuzco", or "Qosqo" in Quechua), located in the Southern Sierras is a fascinating city that was the capitol of the Incan Empire. Cusco is a Unesco World Heritage Site and is one of Peru's most visited cities.

Contents 1 Understand 1.1 Information 2 Get in 2.1 By Plane 2.2 By Bus 2.2.1 Long Distance 2.2.2 Around the Sacred Valley 2.3 By Rail 2.3.1 Cuzco - Lake Titicaca 2.3.2 Cusco - Machu Picchu 3 Get Around 4 See 4.1 Museums 4.2 Old Stuff 4.3 Other 5 Buy 6 Eat 7 Drink & Dance 8 Sleep 8.1 Hostels 8.2 Budget 8.3 Mid-range 8.4 Splurge 9 Stay Safe 10 Learn & Volunteer 11 Get Out

Understand

Information

Dircetur, Portal Blankets 117 (close to the Plaza de Armas), 222032, is the official tourist office. The friendly people can give useful, independent information as well as badly translated brochures.

Get in

By Plane

The airport is at the edge of the city (taxi ride). There are daily internal flights to and from Lima, Arequipa and small jungle airstrips in the Amazon basin. The closest main international airport is Lima. The cheapest one way flights to Lima cost around USD 70. Frequently, bad weather conditions can cause flights to be cancelled, often up to two days on end. If you are flying straight into Cusco, beware of altitude sickness for the first couple of days. Drink mate de coca (coca tea), the local remedy for this. Many hotels and hostels provide it to guests upon arrival.

By Bus

Long Distance

The Terminal Terrestre is about a 20 minute walk down the Av. Sol. You can also take a taxi for a few soles.

Buses are plentiful from other Peruvian cities like Lima (about 24 hours), Puno (6~8 hours), Arequipa (10 hours, 20 soles), Nazca (14~16 hours) etc, but are quite long and slow, although the views can compensate. The main roads are quite good, but some can be bad, making trips take longer than expected.

Also, make sure your bus has a bathroom or that it stops for bathroom breaks every couple of hours before you buy tickets. There Puno-Cusco buses that have neither, and that can mean a VERY long 6-8 hours.

Around the Sacred Valley

There are several smaller bus terminals to transport you around the Sacred Valley of the Incas.

• Av. Grau 525 -- Cusco - Chinchero - Urubamba
• Calle Puputi 208 --- Cusco - Pisac - Yucay - Urubamba
• Av. Tullumayo 207 --- Cusco - Pisac - Calca
• Av. De La Cultura 1320 --- Cusco - Urcos ( Tipon - Piquillacta - Andahuaylilas )

By Rail

There are some, limited rail connections from Cusco, though they're mostly just for more upmarket tourists who want a bit of comfort and class.

Cuzco - Lake Titicaca

PeruRail connects Cusco to Juliaca and Puno ($16.66 Tourist/Backpacker class, $119 Andean Explorer class, both one-way), and the journey is one of the most spectacular rail journeys in the world, passing both through amazing scenery and the middle of small towns.

Having said that, there are two distinct disadvantages to taking the train:

• The price (it's significantly cheaper by bus)
• The journey time (it's also significantly shorter by bus)

The journey should take 10 hours, but there are often delays. The 'scenic stop' included at La Raya is a bit of a waste of time, though it's included anyway.

Cusco - Machu Picchu

It's certainly worth walking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, and there are numerous tour companies through which you can do this. However on the way back instead of taking the bus, you could also take the train (though, as stated above, it's more expensive and a longer journey time). A one-way trip on PeruRail will set you back $59.50 Vistadome class, $41.65 Backpacker class. This journey takes about 4 hours if you go the whole way, but most people coming back from Machu Picchu get off at Poroy from where they take a connecting bus. This will save you a considerable amount of time (around 45 minutes) as shortly after this station the train does some strange backwards/forwards maneuvers to cross up/down a steep slope.

Get Around

The centre of Cusco is small enough to walk around, although you will probably need to catch a bus or taxi to the bus station, Sacasyhuaman or airport. Beware about walking around at night alone and/or drunk, robberies have often been reported.

Taxis are very common in Cusco. Officially they cost 2-4 soles depending on distance. Call Alo Cusco Taxis http://www.alocusco.com Often many drivers are not locals. Beware when using taxis at night; robberies have been reported in collusion with taxi cab drivers, at certain times radio taxis may be the safest option. The driver might also try to extort a hefty sum of money (15 soles) for a short ride if you don't haggle before - which is likely if you're just arriving at night at the bus terminal and want to avoid the hoards of touts. Just pay 5 soles and leave it at that.

If you are staying if Cusco for a long time, the Combis are a cheap and reliable form of transportation. These are the Volkswagon vans and small buses with names like Imperial, Batman, or Zorro. It costs about .55 centavos to ride them. If you are unsure if a certain combi will take you where you want to go, just ask. They will call out the stops as they go and if you want to get off, you just yell "Baja!", as in, "I want to get off!" They run until 10 pm. But if you are a fan of lots of personal space, this may not be the best option for you, as they tend to be quite full. Carry your backpack in front of you.

See

For some of the sights in and around Cusco you need a boleto turistico. It can be bought at the Oficina Ejecutiva del Comité (OFEC), Av Sol 103, tel: 227037. There are three different kind of tickets: A full ticket valid for ten days and for all sites, which costs 70 soles; a student ticket for students with an ISIC sudentcard, which cost only 35 soles; and a partial ticket, only valid for one day and a limited number of sites, which cost 40. The ticket gives access to the following sites in Cuzco: Santa Cataline Monastry, Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo, Museo Historico Regional, Museo del Sitio del Qoricancha, Museo de Arte Popular, Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo Danzas Folklórico and Monumento Pachacuteq. And around Cuzco: Sacsayhuamán, Qénqo, Pukapukara, Tambomachay, Chinchero, the ruins of Pisac, the ruins of Ollantaytambo, Tipón and Pikillacta.

Museums

• Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo, located in the Municipal Palace at Plaza Regocijo. Has exhibitions of contemporary art. Admission with the boleto turistico
• Museo Historico Regional, located in the home of the Inca historian Garcilaso de la Vargas. Many paintings from the 17th and 18h century.
• Museo del Sitio del Qoricancha, Av Sol. With information about the different pre-Columbian cultures and fragments of ceramics and textiles of the Inca culture.
• Museo de Arte Popular, located in the basement of the OFEC office. Displays a collection of popular art.

Old Stuff

• Visit nearby ruins. The largest of these ruins is the amazing Inca Sacsayhuaman
  

  

  Amazing Inca walls at Sacsayhuamán
  (sometimes called Saqsaywaman and Sexy Woman) ruins high above Cusco. Be careful, as robberies have been reported in mornings and evenings. Other ruins up the road from Sacsayhuaman include Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay. All are accessible with the boleto turistico.
• Walk around the Plaza de Armas; the square has churches, shops, restaurants and bars backing on to it and is a great place to spend an afternoon.
• Santa Catalina Convent, also a collection of religious art. Admission with the boleto turistico.

Other

• Visit the local markets; great bargains are available to tourists willing to haggle with friendly locals.
• Galleries; the stunning scenery of the Cusco area are often very well depicted by local artists. You can find cheap prints that are of surprisingly good quality if you shop about.
• Monumento Pachacuteq, down Av. Sol, is a statue of the Inca warrior king Pachacuteq. The statue is placed on a cylindrical base and the total monument is over 22 metres high. The cylindrical base can be climbed, but views are disappointing because the monument is located at a lower part of town. Admission with the boleto turistico.

• Also, some of the walls of the city are Incan walls, particularly near the Plaza de Armas.

Buy

There is a market called Molino, which is in Wanchaq, close to the national bus terminal where things are a bit cheaper. This is a good place to find CDs, DVDs, clothes, and even bikes... This is the black market of all black markets. It's huge! But when it´s crowded, keep your bags in front of you and if you feel anything like a pick pocket, react quickly. If you are staying near the Plaza de Armas, you'll want to take a taxi.

If you want cheap cheap touristy stuff, go to one of the two Saturday and Sunday morning markets in Juliaca (about 5 hours away by bus), Puno (about 6 hours away by bus). They are about 1/3 the price of Cuzco.

If you don't want to go so far away, but still want touristy stuff, go to the Artisan Market at the intersection of la Avenida del Sol and Tullumayo. It's the big red building near the fountain.

Also, Pisac, a town outside Cusco, has a very big market. It is about 30 minutes from Cusco by bus. The bus station is on Tullumayo street a couple blocks from Limacpampas. The fare is very cheap, and you can see the Incan ruins at Pisac.

Also in Aguas Calientes and Machu Pichu prices can be the double of what they are in Cusco.

The further away you get from the main square, they cheaper things become, although there is a mini-mart next to the big church in the main square that is cheaper than in my hotel, then there is the San-Pedro market where bread is s/0.10 and a glass of combination juices is s/1.50 and they give you like 2-4 refills. Don´t go too far from the main square at night though, it can be dangerous.

When you go on the "Sacred Valley" (Valle Sagrada), there is lots of touristy stuff to buy, you can barter, but the prices won´t go down much.

There is another market called Molino, you have to take a taxi and it costs s/4 to get there. In this market you can buy heaps of illegal merchandise, DVDs, CDs etc. A good quality copy DVD is s/8, or you can by 5 VCDs for s/10.

Eat

The Cuzco area has some extremely good international food with tasty options for all budgets. Best pizza ever at the end of the Av. Cultura. There's no need going to the expensive restaurants (which often only serve foreign food anyway), go to the restaurants that serve local food. Be sure to try an alpaca steak (don't forget a llama/alpaca is normally kept and used for it's wool - so only old animals will be slaughtered. But cuy (guinea pig) is the absolute traditional holiday food of the region. A must when visiting a market is to enjoy, in the cold season, "once frozen" / cooked potatoes.

• If you are looking for traditional Peruvian food try lomo saltado' (beef tips with tomatoes, onions, and spices, over a bed of french fries and rice), aji de gallina(chicken in a very good yellow sauce with olives and hard-boiled eggs), or Papa Rellena (stuffed potato with beef, olives, hard-boiled egg, vegetables, and spices)
• Also, try Chaufa. This is the Peruvian version of Chinese food. The neighborhood of Wanchaq has many Chaufa restaurants.
• Try Inca Kola, a bubble gum/tutti frutti flavored soda. This drink outsells Coca-cola in Peru. Also, Chicha Morada is a Peruvian specialty. It's a spiced drink made out of purple corn.
• The soups are amazing. Try Sopa de Zapallo (a type of pumpkin soup)

Food quality on the whole is good in Cuzco; hygiene can however be rather lacking in places. Be wary of food like burgers - although cheap, this is not a local speciality.

• There are huge and cheap breakfasts at Yaku Mama at the end of the Gringo Alley.
• The sister restaurant Yaku Mama Grill on Plaza de Armas has some really good dinners, and a cheerful English-speaking waitress called Yolanda, but is a bit short on the alpacas.
• Joe's Cafe by the South American Explorers clubhouse at Choquechaca 188 (on the corner) serves fantastic food.
• The absolute place though is MAMA Amerika (former Mama Africa) which actually is everything on 3 levels: snack, cafe (rooftop), restaurant (with a good cheap menu), 2 discos, the latest movies on DVD. Some of the decorations and paintings are by the owner/artist.

• The Crossed Keys Pub looking onto the central square is a pub serving European food to tourists.
• Kukuly, Nuaynapata 318, is a cozy place with friendly prices also attracting locals, ran by a Swiss guy. Daily menu for 4 soles.
• If you want some late night food after clubbing go for Los Angelos a very good fast food type restaurant close to Ukuku's near the Plaza de Armas
• If the delicious Peruvian food does not agree with your stomach, and you need a break, there is a restaurant called Jack's which serves a variety of delicious close-to-home foods in large portions. This is the best place to get a big breakfast complete with eggs, bacon, avocado, toast. You name it... and they probably have it. It's located on Tullumayu street close to the top of the hill. Also, right outside of Jack's is an empanada stand which has the best rocoto (a spicy salsa that goes well on the cheese or meat-stuffed pastries.
• If you are not brave enough to try the empanadas on the street, stop by Meli Melo's near Limacpampa and order an empanada or a Bolivian saltena.
• And remember, that if you get sick, go to the nearest pharmacy and ask for Ciproflaxin or Cipro. If you can't remember that, just tell them, "Estoy enferma/o. Duele el estomago." and 90% of Cusco pharmacists will give you Cipro.
• If you are looking for fresh fruits and vegetables, go to one of the open air markets. A good one is called Molino 2. This is close to the airport, so you might need to take a taxi.
• If you are looking for grocery stores there are only 2 in the city. The biggest one is called La Mega and is close to the Plaza de Tupac Amaru. The other is called Gato's Market and is located in the Plaza de Armas by Mama America. You can uncommon foods such as sliced bread, milk not in a can or powder, and peanut butter at both.

Drink & Dance

There are many clubs and pubs in cuzco, and there are always people handing out flyers around the Plaza de Armas. These usually include free drinks. The clubs are almost always busy, even during the week, do not have cover charges, and are most are open until 3 at the earliest and 5 at the latest. The "hot-spots" change nightly; ask around and you will quickly find the crowds of travellers.

• Mama America, this is a popular place in Cuzco, a lot of people, good music, good atmosphere and free salsa lessons. Salsa starts at about 9 and goes until about 11. If you really want to learn some moves, dance with Carlos, Miguel, or Checo, who work there.
• If you want to get away from the tourist crowd for a while and dance the night away with the locals, head to Caos on la Avenida de la Cultura next to the post office. It's a huge very nice club with a great mix of music and exotic drinks.
• If you want to find a place with more locals in the Plaza de Armas, try El Muki, located across the street from Mama America. It has a unique cave-like interior and is one of the city's oldest discos.
• Mythology is another disco that offers salsa. If you want to learn Cubana Rueda, this is the place to go. Classes usually start around 9 and private lessons can be arranged with Cesar, the dance instructor. Also, Mythology has the cleanest restrooms of all of the nightclubs, by far.
• If you want to dance meringue and salsa all night, head to Garabato's which features a live salsa and meringue band most nights. This is where the salsa crowd goes after 10 or 11 when the other clubs stop playing salsa.
• If you are looking for live music head to Ukuku's. Features local and travelling artists that play a variety of different types of music including salsa, meringue, criolla, and afro-peruvian. Also the free drink tickets here is the pisco sour.
• Mama Africa is a popular club among tourists which plays a good mix of music and is always full.
• If you want some very cheap drinks before you go out dancing try Blue Moon on Tullumayo street. It's a small bar with a local crowd.
• If you want to chill with the hippy crowd go to the neighborhood of San Blas near the Plaza de Armas. There's a very chill restaurant/lounge called Los Perros that offers delicious ethnic food and comfortable couches. If you want to hear a great percussion group, a great place to go is the Blue Martini. There is also a hookah lounge closeby.

Sleep

• San Blas - the area 4 blocks from Plaza de Armas - where very many new hospedajes/hostales have opened.

Hostels

• Hospedaje Estrellita, Av. Tullumayo 445, shared double rooms surround a large concrete courtyard. There is a kitchen with a sociable commonroom with cable TV. A night cost 12 soles and includes a small breakfast. It's popular with gringos.
• LOKI Backpackers Hostel, a new hostel set up by 4 backpackers in a 450 years old Peruvian national monument. Much more information about the hostel and cusco in Loki Backpackers Hostel Cusco Peru.
• Casa Arco Iris, Calle Arco Iris 488, single or double rooms for 10 soles per person, in a centuries old building. The friendly people running it started early 2006, so it is still a bit empty, and thus very calm.

Budget

• Hospedaje Corona Real, Av Huascar 226, 808111. Quiet and cheap option about 15 minutes walk from the city center. Rooms are spacious and have private bathroom and local television and cost 15 soles pppn.

Mid-range

• Hostal Familiar, Calle Saphi 661, three blocks from Plaza de Armas. Singles go for $8.00 @ night with private bathroom + hot water.
• Hotel El Balcon, a short distance from Plaza de Armas, awesome interior design, delicious breakfast and moderate prices.
• Orquidea Real, Calle Alabado 520, www.orquidea.net.The colonial building has original Inca walls and exposed wood beams, and the rustic accommodations are simply decorated in a cozy mountain lodge aesthetic. All rooms are oriented toward Cusco below, offering panoramic views.
• Gran Hostal Machu Picchu

Splurge

• Hotel Monasetrio, Calle Palacios 136, .By far the best place to stay Cuzco. Housed in a former monastery (hence the name), the Hotel Monasterio is a beautiful hotel that is steeped in history. The rooms are former monks' cells, but they are far from monastic. If you are looking for luxury in Cuzco, this is the place to find it.

Stay Safe

• Drugs - Drugs are very cheap in Peru, but you must consider that the law is very severe in Peru - that is, years in prison and no pleasure. Consider that many "long resident tourists" are part of the scene. It is already a felony that you "consider to maybe accept" an offer to buy.

• Water Rafting - Although the water is of dubious health value, the trips offered are very tame and certainly don't offer tourists good value for money. Cuzco, full of Incan history, has much more to offer than this and one would be well advised not to bother with it.

• Although Cusco is, in general, relatively safe, as in any urban area, muggings and petty thefts do occur. Use common sense and you should be fine. Don't want alone away from the Plaza de Armas late at night. Don't flaunt your valuables around. Be conscious of what is going on around you. For example, be wary if you are approached by people trying to sell you stuff in the streets and try to strike up a long conversation. It's possible that they are distracting you while someone else is pickpocketing you. Only take taxis that are well marked, and if you are taking a taxi alone at night, write down the number and call a friend (or pretend to call a friend if you don't have a phone) saying, so the driver can hear, that you are coming home in taxi #... Also, try not to set yourself apart as a clueless tourist by wearing expensive or flashy clothing or revealing clothing in a particularly conservative region of Peru (the locals do not wear shorts and tank-tops around).

Learn & Volunteer

• 'Volunteering If you plan on spending a while in Cusco, look into the wide range of volunteer opportunities. A great program for students is ProPeru, part of the NGO ProWorld Service Corps. They do sustainable community development work such as building kindergartens, irrigation systems, and fish farms in rural communities in the Sacred Valley They offer semester programs, internship programs, and short-term group programs, all ranging from a few weeks to a few months. Programs include living with a host family, sightseeing, spanish classes and other coursework.

• For the adventurous, communities in the Sacred Valley often welcome volunteers to teach English or provide other skills to community members.

• In the city, there are many opportunities to work with street children. The most notable is called Bruce Peru. Also there are opportunities to volunteer at one of the cities' orphanages.

• Beginning, Intermediate, and Advanced Classes in Quechua, the native language of the Andes, are taught (in spanish) at El Centro Bartolome de las Casas which is located on Tullumayo street, close to Limacpampas.

Get Out

• Visit the colourful market and climb to the castle ruins in Pisac.
• Visit Ollantaytambo and it's fortress.
• See Machu Picchu - the atmospheric ruin perched below the Andes and above the jungle. Even better, walk there on the Inca Trail.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!