Isle Royale National Park

From MaxTravelz

Isle Royale National Park is a United States National Park comprised of Isle Royale and the surrounding waters and small islands, a wilderness preserve in northwest Lake Superior. It's easily identified on maps of the Great Lakes: Lake Superior resembles the profile of a snarling wolf; Isle Royale is the eye. Although it's closer to Ontario, Canada, or even Minnesota, USA, it's part of the state of Michigan. Despite the French spelling, the name of the island is pronounced like the English royal: "ROY-al".

Contents 1 Understand 1.1 History 1.2 Landscape 1.3 Flora and fauna 1.4 Climate 2 Get in 2.1 Ferry 2.2 Floatplane 2.3 Private boat 3 Fees/Permits 4 Get around 5 See 6 Do 6.1 Around Snug Harbor 6.2 Around Windigo 6.3 Backcountry 6.3.1 Hiking 6.3.2 Paddling 7 Buy 8 Eat 9 Drink 10 Sleep 10.1 Lodging 10.2 Camping 10.3 Backcountry 11 Stay safe 12 Contact 13 Get out

Understand

Isle Royale is currently a wilderness preserve first, a sanctuary for those seeking to experience it second, and a travel destination third. Although it accommodates all of these uses, that's the order of priority they take. So wildlife gets the run of the island, and human visitors are generally restricted to established trails and accessible lakes, with leave-no-trace camping protocols in effect. Modern conveniences and comforts are very limited; away from the small ports on either end of the island, only "outhouse" pit toilets are available (bring your own toilet paper) and "running water" means a "a stream". Lake Superior winters close the park altogether from November through mid-April, with limited access before Memorial Day and after Labor Day. Because of this, along with its geographic isolation and challenging ruggedness, it receives fewer visitors in a year (under 20,000) than many national parks endure in a day, and has one of the lowest vistors-per-square-mile figures outside of the huge Alaskan parks. Which is, of course, a large part of its appeal, and why the average visitor stays here longer (4-5 days) than at other parks.

History

Over four millennia ago, Native Americans began visiting Isle Royale to mine copper, to tap maple trees for sugar, and to fish. Since Europeans came to the area, it's been host to whitefish fisheries, a series of unprofitable copper mining efforts, and a resort community around 1900. In the 1920s, Detroit News journalist Albert Stoll Jr. visited Isle Royale and went on to campaign for its protection; a plaque in his honor was later placed near the tip of Scoville Point. Isle Royale National Park was established by Congress in 1931, and the last of the land de-privatized in 1940 (with some of the land owners given lifetime leases). The archipelago was designated a Wilderness Area in 1976, and named an International Biosphere Reserve in 1980.

Landscape

The archipelago (consisting of Isle Royale itself and dozens of smaller islands) is the edge of a geologic fault which pushed up from the lake floor and was scoured by the glacier into a long, ridged island, with lakes and inlets of Lake Superior filling in low points between some of the ridges. The south sides of these ridges and the south lakeshore tend to be more gently sloped; the north sides and lakeshore more steep. Crossing from one side of the island to the other isn't usually a great distance, but because of the ridges can involve a lot of climbing and descending.

The island and its ridges run roughly WSW-to-ENE end to end, but for informal navigational purposes they're usually described as if they ran directly west-to-east (a notion reinforced by the orientation of the park service's official map). The Greenstone Ridge runs the length of the island, with a trail along most of its crest. Isle Royale itself is 45 miles (74 km) long and 9 miles (14 km) at its widest, with an area of about 205 mi² (530 km²). The highest point on the island is Mount Desor at 1394 feet (425 m) above sea level – about 800 feet (245 m) above lake level – with several other spots along the Greenstone over 1200 feet (365 m) in elevation.

Flora and fauna

The island is mostly forested in a mixture of boreal and northern hardwood ecosystems, with a selection of conifer (spruce, fir, pine) and deciduous (birch, aspen, maple, ash) trees. Past human habitation has left some apple trees behind. Marsh vegetation is more common in the west. A wide variety of orchids and wildflowers can be found throughout the island. Berries such as thimbleberries and blueberries grow wild.

The island is far enough from the mainland to limit the variety of animals on it; there are no bears, deer, or raccoons. Around 1900, moose introduced themselves to the island, presumably swimming from Ontario. Wolves followed, crossing rare ice bridges in 1948 and 1967 (unlikely to be repeated due to the warming climate). As a closed environment, the island serves as a prime field study of the relationship between prey and predator. Because the wolf population is descended from two small packs, the island also demonstrates the effects of inbreeding on their viability. Both populations have gone through booms and busts due to weather, disease, and the quantity of food and/or feeders, but they still endure.

Other common mammals are red foxes (filling the scavenger niche, especially around camp sites), beavers (in inland lakes and ponds), red squirrels, and snowshoe hares. Loons, eagles, and ospreys nest on the island, and a large variety of aquatic and arboreal birds can be seen. Painted turtles, garter snakes, and a few varieties of amphibians are common. Northern pike are plentiful in most of the inland lakes, along with varieties of trout, perch, walleye, and other sport fish. Mosquitoes, no-see-ums, and a few varieties of biting flies are unfortunately abundant, though the extent of this nuisance varies by locale, season, and year to year. Be prepared and bring netting and/or repellent. Bees are present on the island as well.

Climate

At a latitude of 48°North, and with the temperature moderation of cold Lake Superior, Isle Royale rarely gets hot. During the summer months you might reach shorts-and-t-shirt weather for an afternoon or two (especially if hiking), but you'll also experience some chilly nights, sometimes even below 50°F (10°C) in the "heat" of August. In May and October, temperatures can easily dip below freezing by night and stay below 60°F (15°C) all day. Although rainfall fluctuates from month to month, and July and August have the least overcast days, a stay of several days without at least some rain is uncommon; either bring rain gear or plan on spending time stuck in your tent or shelter. The good news for hayfever sufferers is that they'll find few common pollen allergens in the air. In the winter, conditions are inhospitable and the island is closed to all but wildlife researchers. Even the park headquarters relocate to Houghton for the winter.

Get in

Ferry

Most visitors get to and from Isle Royale via scheduled ferry services:

• Ranger III - National Park Service, Houghton, Michigan +1 906-482-0984. 165 ft vessel. Travel time: 6 hours. Operates June thru mid-August, departing Tu/F and returning W/Sa. $52 one-way, canoes/kayaks $21-$55 one-way, motorboats $80 and up one-way.

• Isle Royale Queen IV - Isle Royale Ferry Service, Copper Harbor, Michigan +1 906-289-4437. 100 ft vessel. Travel time: 3.0-3.5 hours. Operates mid-May thru September; daily mid-July thru mid-August, but progressively less frequent earlier and later in the season. $60 one-way ($52 off-peak), canoes/kayaks $25 one-way.

• Wenonah - Grand Portage Isle Royale Transportation Line, Grand Portage, Minnesota +1 715-392-2100, toll-free: +1 888-746-2305. 65 ft vessel. Travel time: 2.5-3.0 hours. Operates daily, mid-June thru mid-September. $39 one-way, canoes/kayaks $28-$32 one-way, $45 single-day round-trip.

• Voyageur II - GPIR. 60 ft vessel. Travel time: 2.5-3.0 hours. Operates May thru mid-October, departing M/W/Sa and returning Tu/Th/Su, but with less frequent service early and late in the season. $54 one-way ($65 for drop-off at secondary docks), canoes/kayaks $28-$32 one-way.

Advance reservations are strongly recommended for all ships, especially in late July and early August. It's a long and bumpy ride (especially across the depths of Superior from Michigan), so take precautions for motion sickness if you're not a seasoned sailor. In the uncommon event of dangerous weather, crossings may be delayed, but they're almost never canceled. The Queen and Wenonah both offer discounted fares for day-trips to the park, but that gives you only about three hours on the island. Note that Isle Royale is in the Eastern time zone, but the Minnesota-based ferries operate on Central time.

The ferries from Michigan dock at Snug Harbor, an inlet of Rock Harbor near the east end of the island; this is the largest "civilized" area on the island. Because Rock Harbor Lodge, Rock Harbor campsite, and Rock Harbor ranger station are located here, this site is commonly referred to as "Rock Harbor", even though that technically refers to the whole miles-long stretch of water. The ferries from Minnesota dock at Windigo, a smaller port at the west end of the island. Each port has a camp store, drinking water, restrooms, pay showers, and coin laundry; these are the only such facilities in the park.

Floatplane

After a brief interruption, floatplane service is available again. It's considerably more expensive than the ferries, but the trip takes a fraction of the time, and offers nice aerial views. The plane can dock at either port, and since it can make multiple crossings in a day, this can give you some flexibility with the time of day you arrive and leave. Stove fuel can't be transported by air, so if you're camping, you'll have to buy that on the island.

• Royale Air Service, Houghton County Memorial Airport, 23810 Airpark Blvd, Laurium, MI 49913, +1 218-721-0405. Travel time: 35 minutes. Operates M-Sa, mid-May thru mid-September. $250/person round-trip, $175/person one-way, reservations required.

Private boat

Private motorboats also come to the island, mostly from nearby Thunder Bay, Ontario. All boats (of whatever nationality) coming from Canada are required to check in with U.S. Customs at Windigo or Snug Harbor. Sanitation and fuel services are also available at these ports. Pets are not permitted on boats within the park boundaries.

Fees/Permits

A fee of $4 per calendar day on the island is charged for visitors 12 years and older, and is collected in advance by the services providing transportation to and from the island. Park visitors are required to file a plan with the rangers indicating the campgrounds they expect to use each night; this is mostly to help the park service estimate campsite usage, and no one cares much if you change your mind en route, as often happens. Special permits and reservations are required for groups of 7-10 (larger groups must split up and hike/camp separately), for off-trail hikers, and for off-site canoe campers. Fishing in Lake Superior and connected waters requires a paid license.

Get around

All transportation is on foot, by canoe or kayak, or by motorboat. Except for a few wide, flat trails and a little pavement in the Snug Harbor area, there are no roads left on the island, and therefore no wheeled vehicles. Bikes and wheeled portage devices are not permitted.

As a wilderness area, the park does not meet modern expectations of accessibility. You need to be able to walk on uneven terrain to get anywhere at all beyond the port areas of the island. Wheelchairs are permitted but not actively accommodated; if you rely on one, you'll probably find dis/embarking at the docks difficult. Lakeshore canoeing and sightseeing by boat are the best options for those with limited mobility. Service animals are permitted only with prior arrangements.

A 165-mile network of trails connects most areas of the island. These are usually dirt with exposed roots and stones. When crossing areas of exposed rock, small cairns of stones are piled periodically to mark the route. In marshy areas, planks are laid down to protect the wet ground from trampling boots (and vice versa).

Several of the inland lakes and protected inlets of Lake Superior are connected by portages ranging from a few dozen feet to a few miles. Traveling by canoe or kayak obviously won't get you to all parts of the island (not even the whole shoreline; the northwest coast is unsafe, with few places to beach), but it provides a different way of seeing the park, taking you to some parts the trails don't reach.

The Sandy, a "water taxi" operated by Rock Harbor Lodge & Marina, can take you to various places on the east end of the island. (+1 906-337-4993) It's fairly costly, however; for example, a one-way trip for one or two people to Daisy Farm campground (6 miles away) costs $90. Reservations are recommended.

The island's "bus" is the Voyageur, which runs between Grand Portage and the island (see "Get in"), but also circumnavigates it between crossings, three times a week during the summer. It can do pick-ups and drop-offs at Daisy Farm, Chippewa Harbor, Malone Bay, McCargoe Cove, and Belle Isle campsites, with fares of $36-$50 per person. It doesn't make regular stops at these docks, so you need to let them know ahead of time if you want to be picked up at one, and reservations are strongly recommended in any case.

If you simply must get from one end of the island to the other on a tight schedule, the floatplane service may be able to accommodate you, but advance notice and reservations are required.

See

The primary attraction is the wilderness of the island. Although it is not "untouched" – Isle Royale has a history of human habitation and exploitation, and the trails and campsites are inherently non-virginal – the remoteness and careful management of the island have combined to make for one of the more authentically "wild" experiences within the National Park system. Sightings of small fauna such as squirrels and songbirds are inevitable; fox, moose, and loon encounters can be expected if you look for them; and signs of the island's wolf presence – footprints, scat, and maybe even howls – are just common enough to keep hikers' eyes and ears open for them.

Depending on solar activity and magnetic field fluctuations, the aurora borealis ("northern lights") is frequently visible. On clear nights, the lack of light pollution offers outstanding star-gazing opportunities.

The island's human history is also worth exploring. Surrounding Isle Royale there are several lighthouses you can visit (e.g. Rock Harbor lighthouse and Edisen Historic Fishery across the harbor from Daisy Farm campsite, Passage Island lighthouse a few miles beyond Blake Point into Lake Superior) and shipwrecks (e.g. the cruise ship America just below the surface at the mouth of Washington Harbor and few several miles farther out). The remains of abandoned copper mines can be found near McCargoe Cove, on the Island Mine Trail, and near Windigo.

Do

Fishing is a popular activity, which you can do from motorboats in the waters surrounding Isle Royale, or from canoes in its inland lakes (many of which are both secluded and teeming with fish). Angling in the waters of Lake Superior requires a Michigan fishing license, which you can buy at either port's ranger station. Hunting is not permitted.

Around Snug Harbor

If you're spending the night at Rock Harbor campsite, staying at Rock Harbor Lodge, or a day-tripper from Michigan, there are several ways to spend your day.

• Guided tours, organized activities, and boat expeditions are offered through the ranger station and the lodge.
• Rent a canoe and paddle Rock Harbor and explore the islands that shelter it from Lake Superior. (Passage Island has a lighthouse, and Raspberry Island has a nature trail.)
• Paddle Tobin Harbor to the north, which also provides a shortcut to the breaktaking view from Lookout Louise up on the Greenstone Ridge.
• To spend a couple hours on your feet, hike the Stoll Trail east out to rocky Scoville Point, or take the Rock Harbor Trail a mile or so west to Suzy's Cave (formed when the water level was much higher) and return on the Tobin Harbor Trail (or vice versa).
• For a longer hike, trek up to Mt. Franklin and back, or for a full-day hike, go all the way to Mt. Ojibway and return by way of the Daisy Farm and Rock Harbor Trails.

Around Windigo

Those staying at Washington Creek campsite or day-tripping from Minnesota have a few options as well.

• Rent a canoe and explore Washington Harbor and its islands.
• There's a 1.2-mile nature trail loop at Windigo.
• Hiking the first few miles of the Feldtmann Ridge Trail and back provides good views of Washington Harbor.
• The 7-mile trail loop to Huginnin Cove and back is a bit far for a day-tripper, but can be done pretty easily in a full day, especially without a pack.

Backcountry

Be Although most people come to Isle Royale specifically to hike the trails or to paddle the lakes, and to enjoy the physical challenge of it, keep in mind that there's no prize for putting in the most miles, and no penalty for spending two nights in the same place. It's too easy to come away from the island with the view of your boots on the trail or the bow of your canoe in front of you, and the feeling of aching feet or arms, seared into your memory. Allow yourself some time without a pack on your back or a paddle in your hands, and just be on the island.

If you have more than a few hours to spend on the island, head off into the backcountry. The National Geographic Society publishes a very good waterproof topographic map of Isle Royale with campsites and trails marked, and mileages for both land and water routes between sites. The book Isle Royale National Park: Foot Trails & Water Routes by Jim DuFresne (ISBN 0898867924) is an excellent resource, describing the routes in detail. The interconnected trails and portage-linked lakes and bays make it easy for visitors to devise their own itinerary among the island's campsites. But there are some common routes that begin and end at the ports, or at docks accessible by ferry or water taxi:

Hiking

• Greenstone Ridge Trail - The Greenstone (named for the colored mineral-bearing rock) runs nearly the full length of the island, along its spine. Its western end is at the Windigo ranger station and its eastern end is across Tobin Harbor from the station at Snug Harbor. (Most hikers go around Tobin Harbor to access it at Mount Franklin.) It ranges from easy to moderately difficult hiking for 5-6 days, and is easy to follow.
• Rock Harbor Trail - A mostly easy hike along the shore of Rock Harbor and Moskey Basin then to Lake Richie, either as an out-and-back hike (4-5 days), as half of a loop with the Greenstone (4-6 days), or getting dropped off at Chippewa Harbor and hiking back to Snug Harbor (3 days).
• Feldtmann Ridge/Island Mine Trail - Along with a segment of the Greenstone, these trails form a loop starting and ending at Windigo. It's moderately difficult hiking, and takes 3-4 days to hike.
• Indian Portage Trail - This series of trails between and around several interior lakes crosses the island between Chippewa Harbor and McCargoe Cove. Moderately difficult hiking, taking 1-2 days.
• Minong Ridge Trail - This rugged, less-groomed trail is harder to follow than the others, on a ridge near the north shore from McCargoe Cove to Windigo. It takes 4-5 difficult days to hike.

Paddling

• Southern lakes - A series of lakes connected by relatively short portages runs from Chippewa Harbor through Lakes Whittlesey, Wood, Siskiwit (the island's largest), Intermediate, and Richie, reaching territory inaccessible by hikers. A 2-mile portage connects Lake Richie to Moskey Basin and Rock Harbor. (With a special permit, you can camp anywhere along the shorelines of the canoe-only lakes.)
• Interior lakes - To cross the island, there's a 1.2-mile portage from Chippewa Harbor to Lake Richie, somewhat shorter ones to Lakes LeSage, Livermore, and Chickenbone, then another hike to McCargoe Cove (roughly following the Indian Portage Trail). This route crosses the Greenstone Ridge, so the portages are difficult.
• Northeast bays - Starting from McCargoe Cove, a series of channels, coves, and bays on the northeast end of the island provide a reasonably safe route through the waters of Lake Superior back to Rock Harbor. This route includes a few fairly short portages, and one heartbreaker up over the Greenstone to avoid a dangerous paddle around the exposed tip of the island.
• South shore - For experienced sea kayakers only (canoes aren't safe in the open waters of Superior) you can make your way by a series of lakeside campsites from Rock Harbor to Windigo.

Buy

Isle Royale is not a shopping mecca. There is a fairly well-stocked camp store at Snug Harbor and a smaller store at Windigo. You shouldn't rely on either of them for provisioning your trip (due to the high prices if nothing else), but they provide a handy safety net if you discover you've left something behind, and they're popular with those just coming off the trail looking for junk food. They sell dramamine by the dose if the ferry ride home looks like it's going to be rough.

Rock Harbor Lodge has a small gift shop if you need a souvenir from the island, so don't go and help yourself to things you find in the wilderness. Removing samples of greenstone from the park is prohibited, and tampering with the wildlife and environment in general is discouraged. "Take nothing but pictures and leave nothing but footprints."

Eat

For most visitors you'll be eating what you pack in, so freeze-dried meals, candy-nuts-and-granola mixtures, and oatmeal are your best bet for on the trails/lakes. Fires are prohibited except in selected sites with community fire rings or grills, so you'll need a gas-powered camp stove. Edible berries can be picked and eaten along the trails when in season. Anglers (especially with watercraft) can add freshly caught fish to the menu. The camp stores at Snug Harbor and Windigo have a limited selection of food for on the trails or to satisfy your cravings when you return from them.

• Rock Harbor Lodge Dining Room, just east of Snug Harbor, daily 7:00-8:30am/12:00noon-1:30pm/5:30-7:30pm. This is where lodge guests on the "American Plan" eat, but "European Plan" guests, cabin guests, and campers are also welcome (though if you're just coming in off a week on the trails buying a shower first would be a nice courtesy). Be prepared to pay premium prices for this luxury: breakfast $12, lunch $15, dinner $27 plus 33% in sales tax and fees to cover the extra cost of utilities in the wilderness. The lake trout is really fresh, though.
• Greenstone Grill, also in Rock Harbor Lodge. Simpler fare such as pizza, burgers, sandwiches, snacks, coffee, and drinks. Still not cheap, but buying an item or two from the menu a la carte is more affordable than a full meal in the dining room, and so much better than a bag of freeze-dried spaghetti.

Drink

There is potable water available at the ranger stations at both Snug Harbor and Windigo. Nearly all campsites have a natural water supply on-site or nearby, but these sources should be presumed infected with parasites, and either filtered or thoroughly boiled before drinking or cooking. Purification tablets won't kill the tapeworm eggs that the moose deposit in the water supply.

The Greenstone Grill serves regional beers and wines as well as soft drinks. Bring your own liquor to the island if you wish, but keep in mind that drunken campers disturb both wildlife and other campers, and alcohol is prohibited at a few campsites. Besides, the last thing you need in the wilderness is impaired judgment, dehydration, a hangover, and a bottle to carry.

Sleep

Lodging

• Rock Harbor Lodge, just east of Snug Harbor, +1 906-337-4993 summers and +1 270-773-2191 winters (yes, that's a Kentucky area code). Open Memorial Day through Labor Day. The only option for those wanting a roof and four walls, the lodge offers both modest hotel rooms overlooking Lake Superior and larger "housekeeping" cabins inland, all a short stroll from the dock. $165-$206 (cabin), $170-$212 (room), $276-$319 (room with meals), double occupancy, tax and fees included; peak season is mid-July to mid-August.

Camping

The vast majority of visitors to Isle Royale stay in the designated campsites maintained by the park service, equivalent to what most parks call "backcountry" camping... nothing like the half-paved parking lots usually passed off as "campsites". Some are accessible only through the network of trails crossing the island, some are accessible only by water routes, but many can be reached either way. The motorboat-accessible sites may not be ideal for hikers and paddlers trying to get away from civilization. There's no charge for campsites beyond the park visitor fee.

The only amenities at these sites are enclosed pit toilets... no electricity, showers, or trash cans. Most campsites have a number of separated clearings big enough for one or two 1-to-3-person tents. Campsites on the shore of Lake Superior usually have three-sided, covered and floored wooden shelters (the fourth wall is screened) and picnic tables, but these can't be reserved, so you need to bring a weatherproof three-season tent or risk spending the night with no protection from the clouds (of rain and mosquitos). Some campsites have larger tent sites for groups of 7-10 campers, which must be reserved. Most sites have a three-night limit on how long you may stay, and the most in-demand sites have shorter limits.

The park's campsites, from one end to the other, are:

1. Merrit Lane - all the way out on Blake Point, protected access from Superior in a narrow channel, 1 tent site, 1 shelter, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Tobin Harbor).
2. Duncan Narrows - in the shadow of Lookout Louise, fire rings, no tent sites, 2 shelters, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Duncan Bay).
3. Rock Harbor - in the suburbs of Snug Harbor, drinking water, one-night limit, 11 tent sites, 9 shelters, accessible by trail (Rock Harbor, Tobin Harbor), canoe or motorboat (Tobin or Rock Harbor).
4. Tooker's Island - on one of Rock Harbor's barrier islands, no tent sites, 2 shelters, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Rock Harbor).
5. Duncan Bay - on a nice peninsula sticking into the bay, fire rings, 1 tent site, 2 shelters, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Duncan Bay).
6. Lane Cove - the only trail site on the northeast bays, 5 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Lane Cove Trail) or canoe (Lane Cove).
7. Three Mile - right on the edge of Rock Harbor, one-night limit, 3 group and 4 individual tent sites, 8 shelters, accessible by trail (Rock Harbor, Mount Franklin), canoe or motorboat (Rock Harbor).
8. Belle Isle - former resort site, lovely sunrises, 1 tent site, 6 shelters, fire rings, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Belle Harbor).
9. Caribou Island - community fire ring, 1 tent site, 2 shelters, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Rock Harbor).
10. Daisy Farm - a large and often busy crossroads site on Rock Harbor, historically interesting, 3 group and 6 individual tent sites, 16 shelters, accessible by trail (Rock Harbor, Daisy Farm, Mount Ojibway), canoe or motorboat (Rock Harbor). Not to be confused with Daisy Hill Puppy Farm.
11. Pickerel Cove - secluded with lots of waterfowl, two-night limit, 1 tent site, no shelters, accessible by canoe (Pickerel Cove).
12. Birch Island - in McCargoe Cove but with a view of Superior, 1 tent site, 1 shelter, accessible by canoe or motorboat (McCargoe Cove).
13. Moskey Basin - at the scenic cul-du-sac of Rock Harbor, 2 group and 2 individual tent sites, 6 shelters, accessible by trail (Rock Harbor, Lake Richie), canoe or motorboat (Moskey Basin).
14. Chippewa Harbor - low cliffs overlooking Superior, good fishing nearby, fire rings, 2 tent sites, 4 shelters, accessible by trail (Indian Portage), canoe or motorboat (Chippewa Harbor).
15. Chickenbone East - quiet, two-night limit, 1 group and 3 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Greenstone, East Chickenbone) or canoe (Chickenbone Lake).
16. McCargoe Cove - popular moose wading site across the cover, community fire ring, no open alcohol, 3 group and 3 individual tent sites, 6 shelters, accessible by trail (Indian Portage, Minong), canoe or motorboat (McCargoe Cove).
17. Lake Richie - good fishing from shore, two-night limit, 2 group and 4 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Lake Richie, Indian Portage) or canoe (Lake Richie).
18. Lake Richie Canoe - more good fishing, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by canoe (Lake Richie).
19. Chickenbone West - right on the lake with nice views, two-night limit, 3 group and 6 individual sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Greenstone, Indian Portage) or canoe (Chickenbone Lake).
20. Intermediate Lake - secluded, rocky shoreline access, good fishing, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by canoe (Intermediate Lake).
21. Lake Whittlesey - good fishing, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by canoe (Lake Whittlesey).
22. Wood Lake - overlooking the shoreline for good moose viewing, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by canoe (Wood Lake).
23. Todd Harbor - great sunsets, sometimes breezy, community fire ring, 3 group and 5 individual sites, 1 shelter, accessible by trail (Minong) or motorboat (Todd Harbor).
24. Malone Bay - beautiful view and pebble beaches, ranger station, 2 group tent sites, 5 shelters, accessible by trail (Ishpeming), canoe or motorboat (Malone Bay).
25. Hatchet Lake - lake views, two-night limit, 3 group and 5 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Greenstone, Hatchet Lake).
26. Little Todd Harbor - on the shoreline, fire rings, two-night limit, 3 group and 4 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Minong).
27. Hay Bay - safe haven for south-shore boaters, 1 tent site, no shelters, accessible by kayak or motorboat (Hay Bay).
28. Lake Desor South - above the lake shoreline, two-night limit, 3 group and 7 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Greenstone).
29. Lake Desor North - a long hike from Windigo, good view of the lake, two-night limit, 3 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Minong).
30. Siskiwit Bay - warmer with nice beaches, community fire ring, no open alcohol, 3 group and 4 individual tent sites, 2 shelters, accessible by trail (Feldtmann, Island Mine), kayak or motorboat (Siskiwit Bay).
31. Island Mine - the only site not by a lake (its water supply is a nearby stream), 2 group and 4 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Island Mine, near Greenstone).
32. Washington Creek - near Windigo, drinking water, view of a creek popular with moose, 4 group and 5 individual tent sites, 10 shelters, accessible by trail (Greenstone, Minong, Feldtmann), kayak or motorboat (Washington Harbor).
33. Huginnin Cove - secluded cove with Lake-Superior-wrecked dock, 5 tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Huginnin Cove).
34. Beaver Island - no tent sites, 3 shelters, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Washington Harbor).
35. Feldtmann Lake - on the SW edge of the lake, good moose viewing, two-night limit, 2 group and 5 individual tent sites, no shelters, accessible by trail (Feldtmann Ridge) or kayak (Rainbow Cove).
36. Grace Island - no tent sites, 2 shelters, accessible by canoe or motorboat (Grace Harbor).

For those arriving at Snug Harbor, the obvious place to camp the first and last nights is the Rock Harbor campsite, the island's busiest. If you're eager to get away from what passes for "crowds" on Isle Royale, Three Mile campsite (unsurprisingly about 3 miles away) is easy to get to. Daisy Farm (another 4 miles) is also within a partial-day's hike. Lane Cove is a reasonable distance, but you'll have to backtrack the next day to go anywhere else. First-day paddlers can reach the Tooker's Island or Caribou Island sites on the barrier islands protecting Rock Harbor.

Mid-day arrivals at Windigo typically spend the first and last nights at the Washington Creek campsite. An alternative is to hike north to Huginnin Cove (3 miles), but this detour will add about 3 miles to the next day's hike, regardless of which direction you're going. Or set out right away on the Greenstone and make your way to Island Mine campsite (6.5 miles, up hill). Beaver Island and Grace Island campsites can be reached by canoe or kayak.

From there, it's up to you.

Backcountry

True backcountry camping - hiking off the trails and camping in non-designated sites - is allowed only with a special permit. It's advised only for experienced wilderness hikers due to the frequent ruggedness of the terrain and difficulty navigating in mostly-wooded areas.

Stay safe

The wolves do their best to avoid humans, and they're very good at it, so they pose no real danger. The moose can be very dangerous if provoked, especially if you get between a mother and her calf, or if you confront a bull during mating season, but otherwise they're nothing to be afraid of. The greatest danger is your own foolishness: pushing yourself too hard, or ignoring basic principles of hiking or canoeing safety (e.g. floatation devices, staying dry). Canoeing, kayaking, or swimming in Lake Superior can be particularly hazardous due to the potential roughness of the water (it's more like a freshwater sea than a mere lake) and the hypothermia-inducing temperature just below the surface.

If you're injured, there's limited medical assistance available on the island, and it's going to have a difficult time getting to you. There are ranger stations at Snug Harbor, Windigo, Malone Bay (on the south shore), and Amygdaloid Island (off the northeast shore), which can radio for help and arrange for transport to the mainland (at your expense) for professional medical care.

Contact

The phone numbers included here are useful for planning your trip, not for calling from Isle Royale, where phone service is almost non-existent. There's a credit-card-powered satellite phone at Snug Harbor for "Yeah, Mom, I made it back to the ranger station" calls. Mobile phones won't work unless you're up on a ridge, where maybe you'll get a weak signal out of Thunder Bay. You could bring your phone along "for emergencies", but the odds of it working when you want it to are slim enough to make it just a half pound of dead weight in your pack.

Get out

If travelling through Grand Portage, the Boundary Waters Canoe Area of Minnesota and Quetico Provincial Park of Ontario provide a paddling paradise to the west. Houghton and Copper Harbor are located on the scenic Keweenaw Peninsula (Isle Royale's geological sibling), and it's not far to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore to the southeast.

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