Jerusalem

From MaxTravelz

Jerusalem (Hebrew: ירושלים Yerushalayim, Arabic: القدس al-Quds; ), the capital of the State of Israel, stands at a religious crossroads. It represents the holiest city of Judaism and is of key importance to both Christianity and Islam. The city remains a fascinating destination for any traveller interested in either the past or the present.

Contents 1 Districts 2 Understand 3 Get in 3.1 By plane 3.2 By train 3.3 By bus 3.4 By shared taxi 4 Get around 5 See 6 Do 6.1 Religious, Jewish 7 Learn 8 Work 9 Buy 10 Eat 10.1 American 10.2 Israeli 10.3 Mizrachi 10.4 Ethiopian 10.5 Former USSR 10.6 European 11 Drink 12 Sleep 13 Contact 13.1 Phone 13.2 Mail 13.3 Internet cafes 13.4 Wireless Internet 14 Stay safe 15 Get Out

Districts

• Old City
• West Jerusalem
• East Jerusalem
• Ein Kerem

Understand

Jerusalem is considered home by large numbers of adherents to all three of the Western monotheistic faiths: Judaism, Islam, and Christianity. Each of these faiths are mostly divided into separate neighborhoods of the city. The main languages are Hebrew in West Jerusalem and Arabic in East Jerusalem. Many people throughout the city speak enough English for basic communication. The city has been one of the most contested in history, constantly shifting hands from the sovereignty of different relgions, and is until today a political hotspot.

Get in

By plane

Ben Gurion International Airport (TLV) , named after Israel's first Prime Minister, is situated at Lod - approximately midway between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv - and conveniently serves both major Israeli cities.

Ben Gurion acts as the home base for El Al [, Israel's national airline, and is served by a large number of additional international air carriers. These include British Airways, Air France, Alitalia, Iberia Swiss Air, Lufthansa, Olympic, Aeroflot, Turkish Airlines, South African Airways, American, United, Delta and Air Canada. Egyptair runs a subsidiary service under the name of Air Sinai from Cairo to Ben Gurion (tel airport 03-9711689, Tel Aviv office 03-5102481)

Travel from the airport into the centre of Jerusalem takes a minimum of 40-50 mins, and - depending on traffic conditions - often more. It is advisable to budget at least an additional 2 hrs above your pre-flight check-in time to ensure timely arrival and completion of security procedures.

By train

In April 2005, train service from Tel Aviv, which terminates in Malcha station (in the south of the city) was renewed. While the length of the trip is over an hour, it takes a beautiful scenic route and is highly recommended.

By bus

Bus services to Jerusalem from Ben Gurion International Airport and every Israeli city are frequent, cheap, and efficient. To check on these services look at the [www.egged.co.il.Eng Egged website], which has a schedule of the intercity buses (Ascending means From and Descending means To). Most buses arrive at the misnamed Central Bus Station to the west of the city, from which it's a long but enjoyable walk (or short local bus trip) down Jaffa Road to the centre of town in West Jerusalem and / or the Old City. Inter-city buses stop inside the CBS; city buses outside of it, both in front of the building and on Sederot Shazar. When exiting the CBS, turn left to walk towards the city, or turn right to find the city buses. (Finding your way when you leave the CBS for the first time can be a confusing experience, since there are almost no city maps around. There is a city map on the large square opposite the CBS, on the right side, towards Sederot Shazar.)

By shared taxi

Public buses do not run during Shabbat, during which your only option is a sherut (shared taxi). These depart from Tel Aviv's Central bus station and charge a small surcharge on top of the normal bus fare. As of mid-2006 a sherut costs 20 NIS (25 NIS at night) and drops you off downtown, not from from Zion Square.

Get around

Cabs are plentiful in the city of gold, but bewarned as the drivers may try to rip you off by "taking the scenic route" or charging a fixed price instead of on the meter.

The only effective public transportation option currently is in the form of buses. The Jerusalem City Tour (Bus 99), intended for tourists, does a loop of pretty much the whole city and costs NIS 45 adults and NIS 36 children for a one-day pass.

Which bus to take? This is an overview of which bus to take to get from certain places to other places. There are no maps of the city bus net available in the city at all, so printing this short list and carrying it with you may save you a lot of searching and confusion.

• Central Bus Station
  • Buses towards the city leaving directly in front of the CBS (going left / east)
    • 1 to Kotel HaMa'aravi: CBS - Sarei Yisrael - Malchei Yisrael (Geulah) - Meah Shearim - Shaar Shechem (Damascus Gate) - Kotel HaMa'aravi (Western Wall)
  • Buses away from the city leaving directly in front of the CBS (going right / west)
    • 7 to Har Chotzvim: Kiryat Mattersdorf - Sorotzkin - Kiryat Tzanz - Ezrat Torah - Har Chotzvim
  • Buses towards the city leaving from Sederot Shazar (the main road across from the CBS; cross under the road through the tunnel) (going left / east)
    • 11 to Ramat Shlomo: CBS - Machaneh Yehudah - HaNevi'im (Bikur Cholim hospital) - Strauss (Geulah) - Yechezkel - Shmuel HaNavi - Golda Meir - Ramat Shlomo
    • 15 circle bus: CBS - Sarei Yisrael - Malchei Yisrael (Geulah) - Meah Shearim - Shaar Shechem (Damascus Gate) - Yaffo (municipality offices, central post office) - Kikar Tzion - Strauss (Bikur Cholim hospital) - Malchei Yisrael (Geulah) - Sarei Yisrael - CBS - Givat Shaul - Har Nof
    • 35 to Ramot: CBS - Machaneh Yehudah - HaNevi'im (Bikur Cholim hospital) - Strauss (Geulah) - Yechezkel - Shmuel HaNavi - Golda Meir - Ramot

• All buses
• 1: CBS - Sarei Yisrael - Malchei Yisrael (Geulah) - Meah Shearim - Shaar Shechem (Damascus Gate) - Kotel HaMa'aravi (Western Wall)
• 2: Har Nof - Givat Shaul North - Hamag - Kiryat Mattersdorf - Sorotzkin - Kiryat Tzanz - Ezrat Torah - Golda Meir - Shmuel HaNavi - Shaar Shechem (Damascus Gate) - Kotel HaMa'aravi (Western Wall)
• 7: Kiryat Mattersdorf - Sorotzkin - Kiryat Tzanz - Ezrat Torah - Har Chotzvim
• 11: Har Nof - Givat Shaul North - CBS (Shazar) - Machaneh Yehudah - HaNevi'im (Bikur Cholim hospital) - Strauss (Geulah) - Yechezkel - Shmuel HaNavi - Golda Meir - Har Chotzvim - Ramat Shlomo
• 15 circle bus: Har Nof - Givat Shaul North - CBS (Shazar) - Sarei Yisrael - Malchei Yisrael (Geulah) - Meah Shearim - Shaar Shechem (Damascus Gate) - Yaffo (municipality offices, central post office) - Kikar Tzion - Strauss (Bikur Cholim hospital) - Malchei Yisrael (Geulah) - Sarei Yisrael - CBS (Shazar) - Givat Shaul North - Har Nof
• 16: Bayit VeGan - Yefeh Nof - Kiryat Moshe - Givat Shaul North - Hamag - Kiryat Mattersdorf - Sorotzkin - Kiryat Tzanz - Hannah - Bar Ilan - Sanhedria - Golda Meir - Har Chotzvim - Ramot
• 29: Har HaMenuchot - Givat Shaul Commercial Area - Givat Shaul North - CBS (Shazar)
• 35: Har Nof - Givat Shaul South - CBS (Shazar) - Machaneh Yehudah - HaNevi'im (Bikur Cholim hospital) - Strauss (Geulah) - Yechezkel - Shmuel HaNavi - Golda Meir - Ramot

list is still incomplete

A light rail line is under construction and will be operational in 2008. It will link most parts of the city.

See

Jerusalem has an amazing array of attractions for the traveller to see. Following are some of the must-sees:

• Old City - the historical core of Jerusalem surrounded by Ottoman period walls, filled with sites of massive religious signficance and a bustling approach to life
• In West Jerusalem, be sure to visit the Israel Museum (home to the Dead Sea Scrolls and much more) and the heart-wrenching Yad Vashem Holocaust museum.

Do

Religious, Jewish

• Visit the Belzer Rebbe's tish on friday night. The best time to be there is around 22:00 (10 PM). Belz is a large chassidic group originating in Poland. If you are not so religious, do not be scared off by the huge crowd of chassidic (ultra-orthodox) Jews; there are always some less religious people around as well. Dress respectably, preferably in neat pants and a nice shirt (and a jacket, if you want), and wear a yarmulke (kippah, head covering). Men and women are strictly separated from the entrance to the building onwards. This is mainly a men's event. The entrance to the Belzer building is on Shamgar street, in Kiryat Belz. Walk down Shamgar street, past the roundabout, past the bus stop, until you get to a small opened gate on the right side, with a view on the huge Temple-like white building. Go down a few steps, turn around and pass through the door, and go down a few flights of stairs. You reach a large (and usually busy) corridor; in the large hall on the right side you will find the Belzer Rebbe and his followers. You reach Shamgar street by following Sarei Yisrael street (which begins close to the Central Bus Station and goes northward) all the way north, passing Malchei Yisrael street and Yirmeyahu street. It is about 20 minutes from the Central Bus Station on foot (though there will not be any buses, considering that it is on friday night). I highly recommend this, though it is only for men, since it gives you a very interesting encounter with Jerusalem's 'ultra-orthodox' Jews, which may be much more interesting than visiting some museums. There is also a tish on every holiday.

Learn

• the Rothberg International School - part of the Hebrew University of Jerusalem

• Yad Vashem runs a number of educational courses treating the subject of the Holocaust and Genocide Studies.

Work

Buy

Jerusalem is big on t-shirts of all shapes, colours and designs, often with good evidence of Jewish humour being present! If shopping in the Old City's markets, be prepared to haggle.

Judaica is also a popular choice of purchase. The Old City's Jewish Quarter is particularly good for this, as is Mea Shearim, however, dress modestly.

Eat

Jerusalem, being the multicultural city that it is, has food from all countries, cultures, and tastes. Besides the ubiquitous falafel stands, there is European, Ethiopian, Medditeranean, and Middle Eastern foods. There is also a large ranges in prices from the ritzy and exotic Emek Refaim to falafel stands centered around Machaneh Yehuda and the Central Bus Station. A good rule of thumb is to look for resturants filled with Hebrew or Arabic speaking locals.

American

• Burgers Bar.
• New Deli, Shammai St and Emek Refaim St.
• Norman's, Emek Refaim. Home to the kiloburger, this American hangout is sure to satisfy your cravings for meat. Entrees are NIS 30-100.

Israeli

• Shalom Felafel, 36 Bezalel Street, open Sunday through Thursday, 11:00 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Kosher.
• Melekh HaFalafel VeShawarma, On the corner of King George and Agrippas. Although there is little place to sit and it is crowded at lunchtime, Melekh HaFalafel VeShawarma boasts the best Shawarma in the city. NIS 8-15.
• Try meorav yerushalmi (lit. "Mixed Jerusalem"), a pita or laffa bread stuffed with a tasty mix of spices and grilled meats.
• Ta'ami, Hillel St. Literally meaning tasty, this lunch-only restaurant has the best Chumous in the city. NIS 20-35.
• HaSabikh, past the Ben Yehuda midrachov on the right. Home to the tastiest Sabikh in the city, in pita made fresh at the restaurant.

Mizrachi

• Marvad Haksammim, King George St and Emek Refaim St. With its large serving sizes this is one of the best places for Yemenite food in the city. Be sure to try the Kuba soup (red, sweet, and spicy with round meat dumplings), Saluf (think large, thick, and crispy burritos), Shakshuka (tomato salad with scrambled eggs), and Malawakh (doughy sweet pancake). Entrees are NIS 15-40.

Ethiopian

Former USSR

European

Drink

There are many bars and clubs; it's the national capital.

Mike's Place, Jaffa 37 (near Zion Square), Tel:+972 52 670-965, . Open all nights of the week by at least 10:00PM, and usually not worth going to before then, because few people will be around. This place is known for its American vibe and one can find many American expatraites hanging out. Red and white wines are available; Carlsberg and Guinness are available on tap. Many types of bottled beer are also available, such as Tuborg, Beck's, Corona, and Budweiser. Most hard liquors are also available. Not kosher.

Sleep

The Old City has a diverse mix of small hotels, religious hospices and hostels that might appeal to the traveller.

West Jerusalem has a blend of B&Bs, guesthouses, small hotels and large hotels - all the way up to 5-star accommodation, including the famous King David Hotel.

• The King David Hotel, 23 King David St. Tel:+972 2 620-8888, Fax: +972 2 620-8882, kingdavid@danhotels.com, .

On the less visited Eastern side:

• American Colony Hotel, Nablus Road (located about 10 minutes' walk from the Old City of Jerusalem and near to the commercial and shopping areas of West and East Jerusalem). Tel:+972 2 627-9777, Fax:+972 2 627-9779. reserv@amcol.co.il, .

Contact

Phone

The area code for Jerusalem is 02 (the country code for Israel being 972).

Mail

Post offices are usually opened from sunday to friday from 8:00 to 12:00, usually also in the afternoon from around 14:00 until 18:00 (not on friday afternoon).

• The central Post Office for West Jerusalem is located near the head of Jaffa Road, close to the municipality ofices. Open until 19:00 (7 PM).
• In the Old City, a Post Office can be found near Jaffa Gate, diagonally opposite the Tower of David Museum.
• In the small shopping mall on King George street, immediately south of Jaffo street, is a post office.

Israel continues the use of British "pillar" mail boxes in some areas of Jerusalem - these are a nice reminder of British Mandate days in the city.

Internet cafes

The most common price for internet cafes in Jerusalem is 15 NIS per hour.

• Strudel, 11 Mounbaz St. Tel:+972 2 623-2101, Fax:+972 2 622 1445). M-F noon-midnight, Sa 3PM-midnight. Jerusalem's original Internet cafe. Strudel was Jerusalem's first Internet cafe and takes its name from the Hebrew word for the "@" sign. This cafe was opened by an English-speaking husband and wife team who wanted to provide a safe haven for English speakers and since then Strudel has been a social hub. Faxing and scanning are also available. NIS 6/15 minutes.
• Mitzi Yaffo - A small internet cafe on Yaffo St. across from Machaneh Yehudah. It's a small low-lying building (an old house) in a corner of the street about 100 meters towards the CBS. Opens in the afternoon until the early night. Price 15 NIS per hour; 10 hour card costs 100 NIS. Kosher.

Wireless Internet

There is now a wireless internet connection in some of the streets in Jerusalem. The service is free of charge and can be accessed in the center of the city (Nov. 2004). The streets are: Midrahov Ben-Yehuda, Nahalat Shivaa st., Shlomzion Hamalka st.

Stay safe

Jerusalem is remarkably safe, even at night. Street crime is almost nonexistent, although pickpockets may work in crowds in the Old City, particularly in areas near the Western Wall.

There are, however, a few areas in the city where it is important to be mindful of one's dress, religion, and time period visiting. Here are some guidlines:

• Dress. When visiting any holy site or religious neighborhood one should dress modestly. For men this means long pants, a nice shirt, and head covering. For women it means a loose fitting dress, and a high necked, long sleeve shirt. This applies to most churches, mosques, and synagogues, as well as the Temple Mount and Western Wall. When in religious neighborhoods as well, such as Mea Shearim, it is advisable to follow these guidlines.
• Religion. Although all of Jerusalem is accesible to members of all religions, it is not always safe for those obviously of a Jewish faith (e.g. wearing a kipah) to enter Muslim concentrated areas, especially in East Jerusalem, , and vice versa, for example Mea Shearim, . This is particularily true at night.
• Time. Mercaz HaIr (Downtown near the Ben Yahuda midrachov) can become dangerous for tourists at night. Like in any city, drunk locals may pick fights with tourists. Non-muslims are not allowed on the Temple Mount during times of prayer. During the Shabbat and Jewish Holidays one should not publicly use electronic devices or smoke in most synagogues, the Western Wall, or Mea Shearim. Friday is the Islamic Sabbath, which may cause difficulties for tourists in Muslim concentrated areas.

At the moment (April 2006), there have been only small scale attacks within Jersalem (stabbings). The threat of a major attack within the city still looms as other cities within Israel have been the subject of suicide bombings (most recently in Tel Aviv). The last suicide bombing on a city bus was in February 2004, which indicates the possibility of their being safe.

Get Out

• Abu Gosh.

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!