Johor Bahru

From MaxTravelz

Johor Bahru — also spelled Johor Baru or Johore Baharu but universally called just JB — is the capital of the state of Johor in Malaysia, just across the Causeway from Singapore. A bustling city but one with little of interest for the casual tourist, it is a significant regional transport hub.

Contents 1 Understand 2 Get in 2.1 By plane 2.2 By land 2.2.1 From Singapore 2.2.2 From other parts of Malaysia 2.3 By bus 2.3.1 From Singapore 2.3.2 From other parts of Malaysia 2.4 By taxi 2.5 By train 2.6 By boat 2.7 On foot 3 Get around 3.1 By taxi 3.2 By bus 3.3 By car 3.4 On foot 4 See 5 Do 6 Buy 7 Eat 7.1 Budget 7.2 Mid-range 7.3 Splurge 8 Drink 9 Sleep 9.1 Splurge 10 Stay safe 11 Contact 12 Get out

Understand

Declared a city only in 1994, Johor Bahru is a rapidly growing city. Latest census figures indicates that it is fast becoming Malaysia's second largest city, with a population of over one million. Due to its proximity to Singapore, it suffers from unavoidable comparison with its more squeaky-clean neighbour. Recent clean-up initiatives like greening the city and covering the open sewers that until a few years ago ran through the center of the city have made it a more pleasant place to live. Though appreciably less organised and more messy when compared to the glitz of Singapore, shopping and eating in the city can be a real adventure, with many shopping complexes and a wide variety of food establishments offering budget to fine dining.

Get in

By plane

Senai International Airport (JHB), formally Sultan Ismail International Airport (Malay: Lapangan Terbang Antarabangsa Sultan Ismail), is located 28 km to the north-west of JB. Senai has expanded aggressively and flights to most Malaysian and Indonesian destinations are considerably cheaper than from Singapore. The airport is compact but recently renovated and fully equipped with shops, a restaurant (landside only), WLAN access (ask for free login at information desk), etc.

Domestic flights are provided by Malaysia Airlines (Suite 1.1, Level 1, Menara Pelangi, Jalan Kuning, 80400 Johor Bahru. Tel: +60-7-331 0036) with direct flights to Kuala Lumpur, Kuching and Kota Kinabalu, and the low-cost carrier AirAsia (Call centre Tel: 1-300-88-99-33) which provides cheaper direct flights to Kuala Lumpur, Ipoh, Penang, Kota Bharu, Kuching, Sibu, Miri, Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan and Tawau.

Riau Airlines (Office at the airport. Tel: +60-7-599 4500 Ext 1113) has flights to/from Palembang in Sumatra, Indonesia every Saturday, RM304 one way before taxes. The flight arrives in Senai from Palembang at 1500 and then leaves for the return journey at 1530. It also flies to/from Batam every Sunday, RM76 one-way. The flight from Batam arrives at 1445 and leaves for the return leg at 1530.

Kartika Airlines (Office at airport. Tel: +60-7-334 4170, +60-7-662 4095) has weekly flights to Surabaya, Indonesia.

Getting there/away

To/from Johor Bahru:

• Causeway Link Express (Tel: +60-7-3582244) operates airport shuttle buses between the airport and the City Airport Lounge at Kotaraya II bus terminal in Jalan Trus. Tickets cost RM8 one-way and journey time is about 40 minutes. From the airport, buses depart at 0610, 0745, 0835, 0925, 0940, 1030, 1150, 1315, 1350, 1510, 1600, 1715, 1815, 1905, 2020, 2135, 2220 and 2330. From the City Lounge, buses depart at 0530, 0700, 0745, 0845, 0930, 1055, 1155, 1250, 1400, 1440, 1620, 1700, 1805, 1930, 2000, 2115 and 2235.
• Causeway Link Express also runs buses between the airport and the Second Link's Malaysian customs complex. From the complex, there are connections to/from Jurong East MRT station. The fare is RM8 one-way. Journey time is about 45 minutes. Buses depart the airport at 0930, 1200, 1430 and 1730. From the customs complex, buses depart at 1045, 1315, 1545 and 1845.
• SPS Coach (Ticketing at airport Tel: +60-7-5993976; City Lounge Tel: +60-7-2217481) operates buses for Malaysia Airlines ticket holders only between the airport and Plaza Seni as well as the City Airport Lounge. Tickets cost RM4.
• Maju no. 207 and GML Line GI operate local buses between the airport and the Larkin bus terminal.
• Besides the bus, taxis are also available.

To/from Singapore: The airport's transport links to Singapore are rather poor, since it has blocked all attempts to provide direct service to what it views as a competitor.

• The only direct bus link is provided by SPS Coach (Ticketing counter at airport Tel: +60-7-5993976; Singapore ticketing Tel: +62-62503333) and is only available to Malaysia Airlines ticket holders. It runs between Senai airport and the Copthorne Orchid Hotel on Dunearn Road, Singapore. For flights and the corresponding bus schedules, check Malaysian Airlines' Singapore website.
• The cheapest option is to travel from Singapore to the City Airport Lounge at the Kotaraya II terminal (S$1 on Causeway Link buses) (see By bus below) on Jalan Trus and transfer to a Causeway Link Express airport shuttle bus. See the "To/From Johor Bahru" section above for details of buses between City Airport Lounge and the airport.
• If you're in a hurry, you can take an ordinary Malaysian taxi for RM35 or so after crossing the Causeway. From JB to Senai takes around 30 minutes in good traffic, but schedule in some leeway as rush hour traffic can be quite bad.
• If you plan to take an early morning flight, bear in mind that the earliest bus leaves the City Lounge at 05:30 and reaches the airport around 06:10. You have the option of staying in JB for the night. You also have the option of booking a taxi that takes you directly to the airport or to the City Lounge at Kotaraya, but this will cost you; (see By taxi below). It is recommended that you plan these carefully, the variables and the risks involved in this morning rush is pretty high.

By land

From Singapore

Immigration formalities You will need to fill up an immigration card to enter Malaysia, so the first thing to do at the Malaysian checkpoint is to walk past the long queue and get one from the immigration officers. Ask for more cards if you want to make a return visit someday. Fill the form, then join the queue. If you are too lazy to fill the form, usually there is an old guy sitting nearby offering help for S$1.

Most visitors to JB arrive from Singapore via one of two land links.

• The Causeway linking Malaysia and Singapore is a very popular and thus terminally congested entry point connecting directly into the heart of JB. While congestion isn't as bad as it once was, the Causeway is still jam-packed on Friday evenings (towards Malaysia) and Sunday evenings (towards Singapore). The Causeway can be crossed by bus, train, taxi, car or foot.

• A second crossing between Malaysia and Singapore, known imaginatively as the Second Link, has been built between western Singapore and Malaysia. Much faster and less congested than the Causeway, it is used by some of the luxury bus services to Kuala Lumpur and is strongly recommended if you have your own car. There is no public transport across the Second Link, and only Malaysian "limousine" taxis are allowed to cross it (and charge RM150 and up for the privilege). Walking across is also not allowed, not that there would be any practical means to continue the journey from either end if you did.

Driving a car from Singapore to Malaysia is relatively uncomplicated, although small tolls are charged for both crossing and (for the Second Link) the adjoining expressway. Do be sure to change some ringgit before crossing, as Singapore dollars are accepted only at the unfavorable rate of 1:1.

Entering Singapore with a foreign-registered car is more complicated and expensive. You will need to purchase a S$10 AutoPass (AP) card and use it to pay a Vehicle Entry Permit of S$20 per day (weekdays only) and either rent an In-vehicle Unit (IU) for payment of road pricing charges or pay a flat fee of S$5 per day. See the LTA's Driving Into & Out of Singapore guide for the today's bureaucratic details.

In both directions, note that rental cars will frequently ban or charge extra for crossing the border.

From other parts of Malaysia

JB is at the southern end of the North South Expressway, the toll highway which runs the length of Peninsular Malaysia. Those accessing the city can exit at Skudai, Kempas, Jalan Pasir Gudang or Johor Baru exits.

JB is also at the southern extremity of the Federal Route One, the main trunk road which runs the length of Peninsular Malaysia's West Coast states. Federal Route Three or the East Coast Road also links JB with the East Coast towns of Kuantan, Kuala Terengganu and Kota Bharu via Kota Tinggi and Mersing. The West Coast's coastal road can be accessed from Pontian.

By bus

From Singapore

The following are options to cross the Causeway to/from Singapore by bus:

Buses between Johor Bahru and Singapore

Line	Stops in Singapore	Stops in Johor Bahru	Price
Causeway Link CW-1	Kranji MRT only	Larkin via Kotaraya	S$1.30, S$1.00 from Singapore RM1.30, 1.00 from Malaysia
Causeway Link CW-2	Queen Street only	Larkin only	S$3
Causeway Link CW-3	Jurong East MRT / 2nd Link	Tampoi / Tmn Perling / Bt Indah /Gelang Patah / Kotaraya	S$3
SBS 170 (red plate)	Queen St via Kranji MRT	Larkin only	S$1.30 (EZ-Link OK)
SBS 170 (blue plate)	Kranji MRT	Kotaraya only	S$1.00 (EZ-Link OK)
SBS 160	Jurong East MRT via Kranji MRT	Kotaraya only	S$1.50 (EZ-Link OK)
SMRT 950	Woodlands MRT via Kranji MRT	Kotaraya only	S$1.20 (EZ-Link OK)
Singapore-Johor Express	Queen St only	Larkin only	S$2.40

There's a pattern to the madness: Singaporean-operated buses (SBS, SMRT, SJE) can only stop at one destination in Malaysia, while the Malaysian-operated Causeway Link buses can only stop at one destination in Singapore. Terminals aside, all buses make two stops at Singapore immigration and at Malaysian immigration. At both immigration points, you must disembark with all your luggage and pass through passport control and customs, then board the next bus by showing your ticket. On the Malaysian side, the bus stop is to your left as you exit the immigration post. Figure on one hour for the whole rigmarole from end to end, more during rush hour.

From other parts of Malaysia

Long-distance buses from JB to other points in West Malaysia depart from Larkin Bus Terminal, located some 4 km north of the Causeway. Only some Singapore-bound services, Senai Airport Express and some local bus services use the Kotaraya Bus Terminal on Jalan Trus in the city centre.

By taxi

Normal Singaporean taxis are not allowed to cross into Malaysia (and vice versa). Specially licensed Singaporean taxis permitted to go to a single point in JB can be booked by phone (Johor Taxi Service from Singapore, tel. +65-6296-7054, S$ 45.00 one way to fixed point in JB, Kotaraya), while Malaysian taxis (which can go anywhere in Malaysia) can be taken from Rochor Rd at premium rates. A combination ride from anywhere in Singapore to anywhere in Malaysia can also be arranged, but you'll need to swap cabs halfway through: this will cost S$40 and up, paid to the Singaporean driver. In the reverse direction towards Singapore, you can take taxis from Kotaraya to any point in central Singapore (S$30) or Changi Airport (S$40).

You can also opt to share taxis from Rochor Rd, which usually works out to around S$7 per person with four people. The main advantage here is that you don't need to lug your stuff (or yourself) through Customs at both ends; you can just sit in the car.

The most expensive option is to take a limousine taxi specially licensed to take passengers from any point to any destination, but only a few are available and they charge a steep RM150 per trip. Advance booking is highly recommended, tel. +60-7599-1622.

By train

The KTM Johor Bahru railway station is located about 5 minutes walk directly north from the Malaysian checkpoint. Train tickets leaving from JB are half price those leaving from Singapore.

KTM trains from Singapore into Malaysia also cross the Causeway, but on separate right of way and are thus immune from the traffic jams. On the flip side, Malaysian immigration is conducted at the Tanjong Pagar station in Singapore, but you will be required to disembark with all your luggage and pass through the Singaporean checkpoint at Woodlands. Trains are also very slow (the trip takes an hour) and very infrequent with only half a dozen services daily, but at RM2.90 one way to central Tanjong Pagar the price can't be beat.

A long-awaited project to construct a new integrated terminal to replace the old, dilapidated train station is scheduled to be completed in 2006.

By boat

JB's ferry terminal is called the Johor Bahru International Ferry Terminal and is located in "The Zon" duty free complex (locally referred to as "Duty Free") in Stulang Laut, 2 km east of the Causeway. Ferries go to Batam and Bintan in the Riau Islands of Indonesia. There are also domestic ferries to Tanjung Belungkor which is located at southeastern Johor where there are transport connections to the Desaru resort area, as well as Changi Ferry Terminal in Singapore. Getting there/away: Causeway Link bus No. 22. They can be caught at the Komtar Shopping Complex in the centre of the city.

To Batam: Ferries depart almost hourly to Batam Centre. RM60/95 one-way/return. Journey takes 90 mins.

To Bintan: Around seven ferries daily to/from Tanjung Pinang. RM75/125 one-way/return. Journey takes 90 mins.

To Tanjung Belungkur: Two ferries daily at 0945 and 1945. RM34/44 one-way/return. Journey time 30 mins.

For information on all three services, you can also call Tenggara Senandung (Tel: +60-7-2211677).

On foot

The 700 metre Causeway can also be crossed on foot in about 15 minutes. This can be a very useful shortcut when the Causeway is jammed, at least if you have only a small amount of luggage and you're on the move either very early in the morning or late in the evening (when it's not so hot).

Be careful at the Malaysian end of the Causeway, you will have to cross the traffic to get to the immigration/customs building. There is a set of traffic lights that is supposed to stop the traffic to allow you cross, but these are generally ignored by drivers. It's very hazardous, and best attempted in rush hour when everything is jammed to a halt.

Get around

JB's public transport is limited to a sparse bus network. Various proposals for relieving the chronically congested town's traffic remain on the drawing board.

By taxi

Traveling by taxi is a fairly cheap alternative, although the drivers don't use meter so you have to negotiate the price with them. Trips in the downtown shouldn't and mustn't cost you anything more than RM5. For instance, a trip from the Malaysian custom to Holiday Plaza cost around RM5 or could be less depends on your skill, however, a trip like this cost less than RM5 would probably upset the driver.

By bus

You can take a bus to move around the city, e.g. to Holiday Plaza or Plaza Pelangi shopping mall. However, there is no clear sign of the bus stops. Just follow the crowds and wait alongside the locals for the bus. Look at the direction sign in the bus and don't hesitate to ask the bus driver directly. Usually the driver asks RM1 for a trip, although I feel the locals pay less than that.

Most buses in the city centre depart from the Post Office on Jln Ibrahim, from the marked stop on Jln Wong Ah Fook (for Larkin Terminal - very frequent) and from opposite the train station on Jln Tun Abdul Razak (for Holiday Plaza). Fares out as far as Larkin are generally RM1. Fares further out run up to about RM1.80. Buses are not very frequent (except to Larkin) but are safe.

By car

There's little point to renting a car for touring JB alone, but it can make more sense to rent a car here to explore the rest of Malaysia as car rentals and fuel costs are roughly half that of neighboring Singapore.

• Hawk Rent A Car, No. 50C, Bangunan KPMNJ, Jalan Segget (two blocks west of the Causeway), dial 07-2242849 /54 mailto:jbhawk@hawkrentacar.com / . A basic manual Proton Wira starts from RM140.00/day, offices throughout the country for easy dropoff (extra charges apply).

On foot

JB is a remarkably pedestrian-hostile city, although the city core is now mostly navigable via underpasses and walkways.

See

• Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque. A Mosque built in the royal British architecture style, that is a reminder that Malaysia was once a British colony.

• Johor Zoo. Located across from the Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque. A run down zoo that provides a dismal diversion to western tourists.

Do

• The Johor Society for the Performing Arts (JSPA), tel. +61-12-7179388, . A non-commercial Society dedicated to the advancement,promotion and development of the performing arts in JB. The 3rd Johor Arts Festival 2006 is scheduled to run from 12th August to 26th August.

• Massage Gallery Home Spa, Taman Perling (dial 07-2352369 or 019-7292369) . A transformed single storey terrace house with two small but clean and comfortable massage rooms and a semi-open body scrubbing area. Male masseurs only.

Buy

JB is full of shopping malls catering mostly to Singaporean shoppers. Selections are somewhat limited when compared to the island state's offerings, but prices for Malaysian-produced goods can be half price or less.

• JUSCO Tebrau City, The largest mall in JB, with a sprawling supermarket and numerous international retail franchises like Giordano's, MNG, Espirit,Dorothy Perkin's, and the list goes on. All ranges of food available, from Italian fine-dining to fast food joints like Pizza Hut to local favourites at the food court on the 3rd level. Upmarket shopping, mid-range goods, food, movies, karaoke and entertainment all under one roof. There are town buses to JUSCO albeit sparse. Taxi rides from the Malaysian Immrigrations should not cost more than RM20.

• City Square, Jalan Wong Ah Fook (just across from the train station) . JB's most accessible mall, an easy walk from Malaysian customs.

• Holiday Plaza, Jalan Dato Sulaiman (Century Garden). A three-storey shopping mall. Take a taxi usually not more than RM5 or bus to go here from Malaysian customs. This is the place to buy electronics, DVDs, VCD, CDs, PS2 games, Xbox games, Nintendo games and PC games at slightly cheaper price than those shops near the custom.

• Komtar, Jalan Wong Ah Fook, located just next to City Square. An old shopping mall featuring some Malay shops and a supermarket. An overhead bridge connects City Square with Komtar.

• Plaza Kotaraya, within walking distance from Malaysian customs. It is relatively old shopping centre compared to the nearby City Square. Visit the supermarket to find Malaysian products and groceries.

• Plaza Pelangi, Jalan Kuning. An upmarket shopping mall. It has a supermarket (Cold Storage) and a wide variety of branded fashion shops and nice restaurants/cafes like McDonald's, and Coffee Bean.

Eat

JB is a popular destination for budget-conscious gourmands from Singapore, as most dishes are half price across the border. Most of food stalls and dining spots come alive when night falls over the city. Common dishes include seafood and some Johor specialities like Johor laksa and mee rebus. The adventurous can head for the stalls at Lido Beach and Stulang Laut to try the local favorites and hawker fare.

Do beware of menus without prices, especially when ordering seafood — otherwise you may be in for an unpleasant surprise.

Budget

• Kolam Air Laksa, Jalan Kolam Air (same road as Hyatt). This is the best Laksa in JB/Singapore.

• Restoran ZZ. 20 Jalan Sungei Chat (off Jalan Mahmoodiah, behind Sultanah Aminah Hospital), tel. +60-7224-0417. Popular low-key Malay eatery with a daily-changing buffet, particularly known for their Johor-style laksa and ikan bakar (grilled fish), two can eat until stuffed for RM10. Open daily for breakfast and lunch only. Located a fair distance from the center, so take a taxi.

• Roti Boy, City Square. Famed for its eponymous light brown buns similar to Mexican bun, served fresh from oven. Eat the bun while it is hot. The bun is popular in Malaysia and Singapore, so expect a long queue during certain times.

• Taman Pelangi Satay. One of the Malay hawkers at the small hawker center opposite the Pelangi Mosque/Caltex Petro kiosk/Pelangi Leisure Mall. Only RM0.40 per stick!!

• Yi Bao Restaurant. Located along the main road in Taman Maju Jaya and within walking distance from Plaza Pelangi, this humble eatery offers one of the best 'mee hoon kueh' in town. 'Mee hoon kueh' is a popular Chinese delicacy where pieces of flour are cooked in a thick, tantalising soup consisting meatballs, mincemeat, vegetables, fragrantly deep-fried anchovies and egg, all cooked to perfection. Noodle version also available. Expect large crowds of office-going workers during lunch hours. Non-halal.

Mid-range

• Eden Floating Palace Restaurant, anchored off the Johor Duty Free Complex. Serves Malaysian Chinese food where diners can pick their choice of seafood and vegetables from a market style setting have it cooked for them. The restaurant can accommodate up to 1,100 guests. (Permanently closed 2004)

• Peach Garden, Melodies Garden. Value-for-money Western dining, especially the lamb shanks. Closed on Sundays.

• Sosaku Japanese Food Restaurant*. Opening hours 12pm-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm (Mon-Fri) 12pm-10pm (Weekends and PH). Located along Jalan Serampang in Taman Pelangi, this restaurant is among many other famous bistros, pubs and mid-range eateries along this road popular among JB food connosieurs. The buffet (served after 6pm) is highly recommended for enthusiastic foodies with a humungous appetite. Sashimi is served fresh and cold, with every springy bite leaving you wanting for more. Try all the tempura and the ramen. Fantastic ambience, excellent personalised service.

Splurge

• Chez Papa, Jalan Maju. French cuisine and a fine selection of wines and cheese. The restaurant also offers a cosy and intimate wine bar with music.

• Ros Marino Ristorante, Jalan Damai. Authentic Italian dishes like osso bucco.

Drink

• Bert's Keller, Century Garden, Jalan Pelandok. A cosy and intimate, no-nonsense pub with great food, serving the best ox-tail stew in the city and live music on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Sleep

There is plenty of accommodation in JB, just look for signs that say Hotel, Chalets, Budget Accommodations or Rumah Tumpangan. The cost of an average room is around RM50/night, you may get more value for your money outside JB though (e.g. in Johor Jaya, Skudai or Kulai).

Splurge

• Hotel Kelana, Jalan Skudai, +60-7556-2050 . One of the more popular budget hotels near the Malaysian University of Technology (UTM). Rooms start from RM 45, with hot water shower, AC and in-room TV. Some 15km from the Johor Bahru city center but stage buses to the city are aplenty.

• Hyatt Regency, Jalan Sungai Chat, tel. +60-7222-1234 . Ageing and poorly located. Rooms from RM300 up.

• Puteri Pan Pacific, Jalan Abdullah Ibrahim, tel. +60-7223-3333 . Probably the best of JB's hotels. Rooms from RM300 up.

• New York Hotel, Jalan Dato' Abdullah Tahir, tel. +60-7331-1588. One of the relatively- newer hotels in Johor Bahru, located conveniently away from the bustling city yet still within commericial area limits. A favourite among organisations for official functions and events for its location, facilities and service. A business-class hotel ideal for those who opt for tranquil surroundings without being too far from the city. Walking distance from major banks and Plaza Pelangi.

Stay safe

Singaporeans like to tell horror stories of crimes in the wild, wild North, but you're unlikely to be a target of violent crime unless you owe large debts to the local drug-dealing syndicates. Petty theft is, however, more of a problem than in Singapore. As a matter of principle, don't show off your wealth: while in crowded areas, try to use small change when purchasing merchandise, etc. Be wary of total strangers asking for small change in the middle of nowhere, as they will more than likely start mugging you at knife point once they have your attention.

Contact

• JOTIC. Jalan Ayer Molek, tel. +60-7225-1387. The official Johor tourism information center is a tiny office in a sprawling, empty building, a fair hike from the city center. Closed Sundays.

Get out

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