Manaus

From MaxTravelz

Manaus is a Brazilian city of about one million, located a few miles downstream from where the two main branches of the Amazon River meet. The two streams flow side by side for many miles, different in color, mixing in eddies: the "Meeting of the Waters."

Contents

Understand

Manaus was once the world center of rubber production and became very wealthy. When rubber tree seeds were smuggled abroad, it relapsed into poverty which was alleviated by being declared a special economic zone, bringing industry and money back. Now it's sliding back a little because other more accessible cities have also been given the same status, and Manaus' remoteness make it less competitive.

The city is pleasant and friendly, and is still a major port, and a good base for river tours.

The Rio Negro (northern) branch of the Amazon is the color of strong tea, peaty brown and its comparative acidity means few mosquitoes. At Manaus the Amazon rises and falls almost twenty meters between seasons. In May and June it's at its peak, full and very wide, spreading way out into the trees. In November December it's low; still massive but with sandbanks showing.

Get in

By plane

Manaus is about three hours by air from São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro. Also, LAB Airlines (Lloyd Aéreo Boliviano) flies three times a week from Miami, Florida and Santa Cruz, Bolivia. This could save a substantial amount of backtracking for those not wishing to go all the way to São Paulo or Rio.

By boat

Manaus is a major destination for boats on the Amazon River. From Belém on the Atlantic Coast, it takes about five days. Boats go to Porto Velho two-three times per week. Tabatinga on the border with Colombia can also be reached by boat from Manaus, with connections further on to Iquitos in Peru.

By bus

Due to road conditions, there is very little (if any) long-distance bus service originating from major cities in Brazil. There are daily buses to Boa Vista in the north and to destinations in Venezuela. The bus from Caracas in Venezula takes about 36 hours, but it is air-conditioned, has comfortable reclining seats and a toilet.

See

  • The Opera House (Teatro Amazonas) was built during the heyday of rubber trade, using materials from all over the world, and was once visited by all the most famous opera divas and maestros. There are guided tours, available in English on request.
  • The city's main market, Mercado Municipal, is modeled after the Les Halles market in Paris.
  • Natural Science Museum (Museu de Ciencias Naturais da Amazônia), Estrada Belem s/n, Colonia Cachoeria Grande. Few locals visit this museum, know about it, or would even want to, considering that it's basically critters they'd find (almost) in their backyard. For visitors, though, it's a chance to see a live pirarucu and other fauna (mostly preserved) of the region. The museum was constructed single-handedly by a Japanese entomologist (specializing in butterflies) with his own money and resources. It's out of the way and about half an hour by taxi. The nearby INPA is a preserve and research center with birds and other wildlife.

Do

  • River tours. If you take a river tour, go up the Rio Negro. From a three-night river boat trip from Manaus up the Rio Negro with a guide, you can expect to see some wildlife and visit some of the forest remnants, but two weeks or more are needed to reach untouched areas. Small two-story river boats carry five to ten people, sleeping in hammocks on the upper deck. Large boats carrying hundreds ply the river too, but the big boats don't stop between ports. Some river tour companies:

Swallows and Amazons – Reasonably priced classic-style riverboats for exploring the Amazon and Negro Rivers on trips ranging from 1 to 15 days. The “riverboat” is complete with hammocks (or day-beds), bathroom, shower, captain, cook, an English speaking professional guide, all food and drink (except alcohol), camping and fishing equipment. A motor canoe is sometimes used to reach more remote locations on the tour at the discretion of the guide. A “houseboat” offers the same but with double or cot style beds. Multi-day trips (including a 7 night package) explore the Amazon and Negro Rivers and the Anavilhanas Archipelago and offer trekking, canoeing, camping, swimming, alligator hunting and piranha fishing, as well as visits with the local river people. An eleven night package adds Jau National Park on the Middle Negro River and a 15 night package adds the Lower Branco, as well as more locations on the middle Rio Negro. http://www.swallowsandamazonstours.com

Amazon Clipper – A “filtered” experience by comparison and less ambient adventure. Offers regular guaranteed tours departing on Mondays (3 days/2 nights), Wednesdays (4 days/3 nights) and the full cruise from Mondays to Saturdays (6 days/5 nights). All tours depart and arrive at the Pier of the Hotel Tropical in Manaus. A typical tour includes some "igarapes" (river creeks) and "igapos" (flooded forests) by powered canoes, visit the natives and see their way of life, hike in the forest, as well as fishing, bird watching, swimming in the river, and lectures on the Amazon. http://www.amazonclipper.com.br/

An ardent warning: Do not buy tours from people at the airport or on the street in Manaus. Not only are you likely to get ripped off, you will never get your money back. The best guides are hired by the best companies; the best shysters don’t work for the best companies. If you don’t want to reserve tour before arriving and want to book a tour in Manuas use a reputable published guidebook first. The offices of tour companies are relatively easy to find (or telephone) in downtown Manaus and many will meet you at no charge.

  • Ponta Negra is a popular river beach, some distance west of the city.
  • Dancing Upscale: the Tropical Hotel’s dance floor. Middle class: Tukannu’s, Coração Blue near the Ponta Negra. General public: Deus Me Livre, Municipal, Meu Dengo, Kitabom. Most adventurous: the Casa do Terror, a cobwebbed hole-in-the-wall near the Bola da SUFRAMA where a shirtless Cearense in a cowboy hat spins old LP’s of boleros and bregas.
  • Festivals Festivals are usually held in the Sambódromo, a huge stadium on Rua Constantino Nery. Carnaval is held here, and many other festivals, including Manaus’s popular boi.

Eat

  • Açaí e Companhia, Address: Rua Acre, 98 - Vieiralves, phone number (Phone: 01155-(92) 635-3637). Open 10 am to 12 am. Nice atmosphere. Wonderful regional dishes. Good service for Manaus. Sometimes live music.
  • Canto da Peixada, Address: Rua Emílio Moreira, 1677 - Praça 14, Phone: 01155-(92) 234-3021. Great local fish selection.
  • Casa da Sopa, Soup buffet. Highly recommended.
  • For international food in Manaus, the Miako and Suzuran offer Japanese food; there’s a Korean restaurant on the “Boulevard”, superb Italian food at Gianni's, and there is a home that serves delicious Peruvian dishes downtown near Cortez Casa de Câmbio.
  • Street vendor and market food to try:

Tapioquinha – glutinous pancakes made from manioc starch; usually buttered and filled with tucumã palm fruit and farmer’s cheese (personal favorite!)

Tacacá – a soup local to the Amazon region: a tangy broth made from the juice extracted from manioc processing, a gum in the bottom of the dish from manioc starch, leaves from jambo, a slightly narcotic leaf that makes your tongue buzz, and salty dried shrimp floating on top.

Pamonha – green corn and coconut milk boiled in corn husks (can choose savory or sweet)

Bolo de macaxeira – a glutinous translucent oily cake made from manioc; tasty but heavy

Caldo de cana - juice pressed on the spot from sugar cane, muddy green-looking and sweet; usually accompanied with something deep-fried....

The region produces an awesome array of forest fruits (highly seasonal). Iron-rich açaí, cupuaçu—an aromatic relative of cacao, ingá the ice cream bean, sticky abiu.

Cupuaçú – creamy white with a flowery medicinal flavor Pupunha – a buttery, corn-flavored palm fruit Sorva – snotty texture, sweet Mapatí – resemble bronzed grapes

Sleep

Budget

Lots of cheap hotels and pensãos can be found in the area around Av. Joaquim Nabuco.

  • Hotel Rio Branco, Rua dos Andradas 484, 233-4019. A real backpacker dive. Rooms are tiny and in some cases without windows.
  • Hotel Jangada, Rua dos Andradas, opposite Rio Branco. Rooms with private bathroom, a/c and tv for 35 reais. Very clean.
  • Pensão Sulista, Av. Joaquim Nabuco 347, 234-5814.
  • Hotel Continental, Rua Coronel Sergio Pessoa 189, 233-3342. A few blocks removed from the main strip; pleasant and economical.

Stay healthy

The climate is very hot and humid. Packing thin, light-colored clothing will help you suffer the least during the day. There is little cotton or natural fiber clothing available in Manaus, so don’t count on being able to pick up something on short notice. People seem to prefer synthetic materials, which have the advantage of drying easily without molding.

Stay safe

Violent crimes against tourists in Manaus are highly uncommon. However, avoid robbery by avoiding crowded (or deserted) places. From 5-7 p.m. and 7-8 a.m., the buses are packed with people going to and from work, so try to avoid needing public transportation during this time. Pickpocketing takes many forms: it could be a well-dressed teenager on a crowded bus, or 2 middle-aged women pretending to look at wooden spoons in the market.

Be very wary of other drivers, the city did not grow up with cars, and the drivers take high risks.

Get out

  • Presidente Figueiredo – town of beautiful waterfalls 100 km north of Manaus
  • Praia do Tupé – nearby white sand beach
  • Manacapurú – Paraiso d’Angelo chalets on black water
  • Parintins – boi festival in June
  • Mauês – guaraná festival
  • Venezuela by bus, 16 hours
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