Nong Khai

From Wikitravel

Statue park, Sala Kaew Ku
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Statue park, Sala Kaew Ku

Nong Khai (หนองคาย) is a provincial city in the north-eastern Isaan region of Thailand. The city lies on the western bank of the Mekong river, only 20 km from Vientiane, the capital of Laos.

Table of contents

Get in

By plane

The nearest airport (on the Thai side) is in Udon Thani. There are direct shuttle buses four times a day between the airport and the Friendship Bridge.

By bus

There are departures to Udon Thani at least once per hour from the BKS station. The hour-long ride costs 20 baht in 3rd class (non-aircon).

There are several departures daily from Bangkok (~9 hours), and across the border direct from Vientiane (30 baht, one hour) via the Friendship Bridge.

By train

Until the long-awaited extension to Vientiane materializes, Nong Khai is the terminus of the Thai railway line from Bangkok via Khon Kaen and Udon Thani.

Get around

The only mode of public transport in the city is by tuk-tuk. They are inexpensive (20-30 baht/person) to anywhere around the city centre.

See

Buddha meditating under the Nagas, Sala Kaew Ku
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Buddha meditating under the Nagas, Sala Kaew Ku

Nong Khai has one sight that cannot be missed - Sala Kaew Ku (also known as Wat Khaek), located 6 km east of Nong Khai on Highway 212.

This utterly bizarre park of massive sculptures (some over 20m tall) is the handiwork of the mystic Luang Pa Bunleua Sulilat, who bought the land in 1978 when he was kicked out of his native Laos (a similar park of his earlier work remains near Vientiane). Synthesizing Buddhism, Hindu and Confucian ideologies, Buddhas, many-armed goddesses, naga snakes and all sorts of human-animal hybrids dominate the scenery. Entry 10 baht (as a donation, not obligatory). No direct public transport and you might find it a little tricky to get back, so you're best off arranging a return ride with a tuk-tuk (100 baht or so, including an hour's waiting).

Particularly noteworthy is the Wheel of Life, depicting his theory of the cycle of life; you enter via from a womb-shaped tunnel and walk the circle past statues depicting the stages.

Luang Pa's mummified remains are enshrined on the third floor of the Sala Kaew Ku pavilion itself.

Do

Nong Khai is a charming city to wander around on foot or rented bicycle (30 baht/day) and meet the friendly and helpful locals. It's also a good place from which soak up the Isaan culture of the neighbouring towns, which can easily be reached by bus from the main BoKorSor bus station in the city centre.

Buy

The recently renovated Ta Sadet market is a 2 km stretch beside the Mekong river, where one can find hand made Thai products and Chinese teas. It's open daily 08:00-18:00.

Eat & Drink

  • Surreal, Rimkong Rd (near the Ta Sadet market). A must-stop for many passing through. Surreal boasts a breathtaking view of the Mekong accompanied by the best fruit shakes and Thai tapas you can find in the Isaan region.

Sleep

Budget accommodation is of good value, extensive and affordable relative to the other more popular cities of Thailand.

Contact

Get out