Pattaya

From MaxTravelz

Pattaya (พัทยา) is a popular resort on the North Gulf Coast of Eastern Thailand, 150 km south-east of Bangkok. Most famous for its go-go and beer bars, it's also one of Thailand's best locations for all manner of sports and activities. Some of the beaches are lacklustre (by Thailand's high standards) and rampant overdevelopment has long since destroyed any natural charms it once had, but its plethora of hotels and guesthouses and convenient location with quick and easy access from the capital make it a popular weekend getaway. With around five million tourists packing in yearly Pattaya is also able to offer an excellent range of eating choices and a wide variety of things to do and see.

Contents 1 Districts 2 Understand 3 Orientation 3.1 Central Pattaya 3.2 Jomtien 4 Get in 4.1 By road 4.1.1 First class bus 4.1.2 Second class bus 4.1.3 Minibus 4.1.4 Taxi 4.2 By plane 4.2.1 U-Tapao 4.2.2 via Bangkok 4.3 By train 5 Get around 5.1 By songthaew 5.2 By local bus 5.3 By motorbike taxi 5.4 By taxi 5.5 Rentals 5.6 Maps 6 See 6.1 Animals & Zoos 6.2 Gardens 6.3 Museums 6.4 Theme parks 7 Do 7.1 Beaches 7.2 Entertainment 7.3 Songkran 7.4 Learn 7.5 Sports 7.6 Volunteering 8 Buy 8.1 Supermarkets 8.2 Markets 8.3 Shops 9 Eat 9.1 Budget 9.2 Mid-range 9.3 Splurge 9.4 Vegetarian 10 Drink 10.1 Beer bars 10.2 Go-go bars 10.3 Popular bar venues 10.4 Cabaret 10.5 Disco 10.6 Karaoke 11 Sleep 11.1 Budget 11.2 Mid-range 11.3 Splurge 12 Contact 12.1 Telephone 12.2 Internet 12.3 Post 12.4 Airline offices 12.5 Clubs & Associations 12.6 Immigration 13 Stay safe 13.1 Accidents 13.2 Crime 13.3 Drinking 13.4 Drugs 13.5 Gambling 13.6 Prostitution 13.7 Scams 14 Cope 14.1 Emergencies 14.2 Marine safety 14.3 Police 14.4 Hospitals 14.5 Dentists 14.6 Laundry 15 Get out 15.1 Islands 15.2 Cambodia

Districts

• Jomtien Beach
• Central Pattaya
• Nakluea

Understand

see also the Pattaya events & holiday dates table at the foot of this article

Pattaya's name was originally Thap Phraya, meaning Army of the Phraya - commemorating the surrender of Nai Klom's army to that of Phraya Tak (later King Taksin the Great), without a fight. Thap Phraya became Phatthaya (the name of the north-easterly wind at the beginning of the rainy season), and then Phatthaya became Pattaya.

Since 1978, Pattaya has been administered under a special autonomous system with a status comparable to that of a municipality by the mayor of Pattaya City, who has overall responsibility for policies, public services, and supervision of all City Hall employees.

Tourism

Once a sleepy fishing town, Pattaya boomed as an R&R spot during the Vietnam War and has been a sex tourism destination trying to improve its image ever since. It's popular with both Thai and foreign tourists, not only as a beach resort and for its entertainment, nightlife and shopping, but also for the broad selection of pastimes it caters for, from golf and horseback riding to bungee jumping, karting and shooting - not to mention a wide variety of watersports such as scuba diving, jet-skiing, sailing, water skiing, windsurfing and kitesurfing, and a whole lot more. Pattaya is also very popular as a conference, convention and seminar venue. Currently, tourism overall in Pattaya is booming - official statistics for 2004/2005 show a 3.38% drop in the number of visitors (to 4,816,678) compared with the previous year, but a 7.41% increase in income (over 50 billion baht) for the same period, and the grapevine hosts rumours of future developments of varying degrees of plausibility, such as a horse racing track, casinos, and a tram system.

The Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT) Information Office is just outside the centre - head south along Second Road and then Pratamnak Road and then continue straight up the hill, and when the road turns sharp right part way up, turn left into the small side-soi. Worth a visit if you're in Pattaya for an extended period and want to browse for fresh ideas for new things to do/see. Open daily 08:30-16:30, tel. +66-38428750 / 8990 / 7667 or use the TAT freephone number: dial 1672 or e-mail: tatchon@tat.or.th

Local news

Foreign language newspapers:

• Pattaya Blatt - in German - 25 baht, weekly
• Pattaya Mail - in English - 25 baht, weekly
• Pattaya People (Pattaya Aktuell) - mainly in English, some German, a little Thai - 25 baht, weekly
• Pattaya Today - in English - 20 baht, fortnightly

Orientation

Flanking Pattaya/Central Pattaya are Jomtien, to the south, which is considerably more sedate and family-oriented, plus the beach here is in better shape too; and Naklua, to the north, which is also quieter than central Pattaya, but not as well known for its beach as Jomtien. Other major tourism areas include the section of Second Road between sois 1-4, and the sois immediately north of South Pattaya Road.

Central Pattaya

Central Pattaya is easy to get around. Running north-south, a few hundred metres apart, are Beach Road (Thanon Hat Pattaya, sometimes also referred to as First Road) which borders the main beach (Hat Pattaya), Pattaya Second Road and Pattaya Third Road (with the smaller but busy Soi Buakhao in between), and the main Sukhumvit Road coastal highway.

These are connected by the three major east-west aligned roads: North Pattaya Road (Thanon Pattaya Nua), Central Pattaya Road (Thanon Pattaya Klang) and South Pattaya Road (Thanon Pattaya Tai). North Pattaya Road is a dual carriageway and carries the highest volume of traffic to and from Sukhumvit Road.

Also connecting Beach Road and Second Road are a large number of smaller streets (sois). The main sois are numbered from 1 to 16, from north to south. Sois 1-6 are between North Pattaya Road and Central Pattaya Road; sois 7-13 are between Central Pattaya Road and South Pattaya Road (including the "Pattayaland" sois, immediately north of South Pattaya Road); sois 14-16 are south of South Pattaya Road.

Beach Road, Second Road, and North Pattaya Road (plus the Pattaya-Naklua Road to the north) all meet at the Dolphin Roundabout landmark. Heavy traffic and frequent accidents have resulted in a permanent diversion being set up which now prevents vehicles (except motorcycles) from continuing around this roundabout any further than the North Pattaya Road exit, pending the installation of traffic lights some time in 2006.

Jomtien

Second Road south of South Pattaya Road becomes Pratamnak Road, which shares a junction with both the southern end of Third Road and the northern end of the main road to Jomtien, Tappraya Road.

Beach Road south of South Pattaya Road is closed to vehicles in the evenings (currently 18:00-02:00) and is called Walking Street; it's the main tourist area, both for nightlife and shopping.

At the southern end of Walking Street is the New Pier, usually called Bali Hai Pier (sometimes "Pattaya Pier" or "South Pier"). The Old Pier, close to the junction of Beach Road and South Pattaya Road, is partially collapsed and partially dismantled.

Get in

Most visitors arrive by road from or via Bangkok, many having flown in to Don Muang (BKK). Much smaller numbers arrive direct by road from the north and east, by rail from Bangkok, and by air via U-Tapao from Ko Samui or Phuket in Southern Thailand or Siem Reap in Cambodia.

By road

for bus services from/to destinations other than Bangkok, see the Get in | By road | By region section

First class bus

1st class buses from Bangkok's Eastern, Northern, and Southern Bus Terminals to the North Pattaya Road bus station are air-con, almost always have an on-board toilet, are essentially direct (ie no stops), and provide a no fuss, no frills, hassle-free service for under 120 baht. Departures from the Eastern (Ekamai) Terminal and Northern (Moh Chit) Terminal are frequent (every 20-40 minutes, depending on the time of day; more frequent still at public holiday weekends) and usually take 2-2.5 hours; those from the Southern (Sai Tai Mai) Bus Terminal are less frequent and take a little longer.

Departure times & fares (February 2006):

- Ekamai (East) to Pattaya - first 05:20, last 23:00 - 117 baht

- Pattaya to Ekamai (East) - first 05:20, last 21:00 - 113 baht

- Moh Chit (North) to Pattaya - first 05:00, last 20:00 - 117 baht

- Pattaya to Moh Chit (North) - first 05:20, last 20:00 - 113 baht

- Sai Tai Mai (South) to Pattaya - 05:30, 08:30, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, 18:30 - 117 baht

- Pattaya to Sai Tai Mai (South) - 06:00, 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 15:00, 18:00 - 113 baht

All 1st class direct services to/from Bangkok use the recently redeveloped bus station on North Pattaya Road. These buses are usually full when they depart, and must be boarded at the terminus. Tickets are sold at the bus station; it's not possible to pre-book these services more than an hour or so in advance. Usually, if the bus that's due to leave next is already full, there will be seats available on the next one.

From the North Pattaya Road bus station, songthaews (a cross between a pickup truck, a share-taxi, a local bus and two pews) depart when full (every few minutes). The fare to anywhere on Beach Road ("the beach") is 20 baht; press the buzzer button on the underside of the roof when you want to get off.

Pattaya from/to Don Muang: take the Northern (Moh Chit) Terminal bus; a taxi from Moh Chit direct to Don Muang departure concourse doors should be less than 100 baht by meter. The fare in the Don Muang to Moh Chit direction is subject to a 50 baht surcharge - however this can be avoided by taking a taxi from outside the upper lever departures concourse, instead of from the lower level arrivals concourse.

Pattaya from/to Southern (Sai Tai Mai) Terminal: if the direct bus is fully booked, take the Eastern (Ekamai) Terminal bus instead, and use the #511 (air-con, every 30 minutes 24/7, 20 baht) bus to connect between Ekamai and Sai Tai Mai.

Pattaya to Eastern (Ekamai) Terminal: if requested, this bus will stop at the On Nut Skytrain Station (station map) on Sukhumvit Road. Depending on your final destination and the traffic conditions, you may want to transfer to the Skytrain (system map) there; if so, wait until the bus departs Pattaya and then confirm with the crew that you want to be dropped off at "On Nut". NB: this bus does not stop to pick up passengers at On Nut (or anywhere else) on the outbound leg.

Second class bus

2nd class services (air-con, usually no on-board toilet) don't use the expressways, and make frequent (and sometimes lengthy) stops, hence they take considerably longer than their 1st class counterparts (which at worst will only halt momentarily once or twice to let passengers jump off on the final approaches to their destination); and the difference in price doesn't amount to much.

Many 2nd class buses from Bangkok continue on to Jomtien, so may be worth considering if that's your final destination and you're not in a hurry; when travelling from Jomtien to Bangkok they have the advantage that they can be flagged down and boarded as they crawl along Jomtien's seafront road (Jomtien Beach Road - Thanon Hat Jomtien), avoiding the need for a preliminary trip to the bus station.

The terminus for 2nd class services to/from Bangkok and other short-haul destinations is on South Pattaya Road, but in practice these buses pick up and drop off the majority of their passengers en route. Tickets are sold both at the bus station (although advance booking may not be possible) and on the bus itself.

Minibus

Pattaya to Don Muang by minibus takes around two hours in good traffic (but allow more for collections and congestion). There are several operators, who between them provide departures from Pattaya every couple of hours or so from 06:00 through to 20:00, and booking a seat couldn't be easier - simply walk into any travel agency shop, or ask at your hotel/guesthouse reception desk. Prices range from 250 baht/person to about 400 baht/person - alternatively you can charter an entire minibus from around 1800 baht.

Bell Travel Service (Pattaya tel. +66-38370055 /6) operates a "big"-bus plus minibus combination service from the bus station on North Pattaya Road (the 1st class Bangkok bus terminal) with departures at 06:00, 09:00, 13:00 and 17:00. When booked via an agency, the price is 300 baht including collection from your hotel; alternatively, if you make your own way to the North Pattaya Road bus station and buy your ticket direct from the Bell Travel Service office (at the far end of the site, on the opposite side to the main building) the price is 250 baht.

Don Muang to Pattaya by minibus is, curiously, more difficult to arrange - the bus operators appear to be out of favour with the powers that be at the Don Muang terminals, and only taxi and limousine services are on offer from the touts and booths in the arrivals concourse.

Bell Travel Service operates a combination service with minibus transfers from Don Muang to Bang Na, and "big"-bus departures from Bang Na to Pattaya at 09:30, 13:30 and 17:30, for 300 baht. Book in advance (around 90 minutes minimum): tel. +66-27474675 /6 or email: rrc_bus@hotmail.com

Alternatively, it might be worth trying the travel agencies at Don Muang Train Station (directly opposite the airport - follow the signs for the overhead walkway that connects the train station and Amari Hotel to Terminal 1).

to/from Bangkok - minibuses also run between Pattaya and Bangkok's hotels and Khao San Road, offering the convenience of a door-to-door service for around 400 baht/person. Departure times vary, but 09:00 / 12:00 / 17:30 are the most widely advertised. Driving time is about 2 hours, however it can take quite a bit longer overall (especially if you're the first to be collected and the last to be dropped off). One such service runs direct between Pattaya Dynasty Inn (Soi 13) and Bangkok Dynasty Inn (Soi Nana), and can be arranged through the Dynasty Inn reception desks.

to/from other destinations - daily minibus services also connect Pattaya directly with:

• U-Tapao Airport (near Sattahip) - about 30 minutes, 200-250 baht; departure times to suit flight schedules

• Ban Phe (gateway to Ko Samet) - about 90 minutes, 150-200 baht; departures typically 07:30, 11:30, 15:00

• Laem Ngop (gateway to Ko Chang) - about 3 hours, 400-500 baht; depart 09:00

It's also possible to travel by minibus to Hat Lek (for the southern-most border crossing between Thailand and Cambodia) but not every day of the week; this service may or may not go via Laem Ngop, depending on overall demand. As at January 2006: depart 07:30, arrive around 14:00, 700 baht, Tuesday and Friday only - but liable to change, so enquire locally for the latest schedule details.

Travel agencies (ubiquitous throughout Pattaya) plus many hotels/guesthouses sell minibus tickets, and tourist-oriented services such as these invariably include collection from your hotel/guesthouse/wherever (allow extra time for this - times quoted above are approximate transit times and make no allowance for the vagaries of the collection process).

Taxi

Taxis from Bangkok cost between 1500 baht (the official meter-taxi price) and 1000 baht; arranged car services will tend toward the higher end, but licenced meter-taxis should be negotiable to the lower end of the range. The price direct from Don Muang Airport is fixed at 1500 baht if you join the line outside arrivals; you may be able to negotiate a lower fare if you go up to the departures concourse. When agreeing the price, confirm that it does or does not already includes all the highway ("motorway" or "expressway") tolls. From Don Muang, the toll is 145 baht. Allow about 90-120 minutes, depending on where in Bangkok you're coming from; allow more around rush hour.

By plane

airline offices: see the Contact | Airline offices section

airstrips: see the Do | Sports | "flying, paragliding & skydiving" section

U-Tapao

Formerly a US airbase and largely responsible for Pattaya's initial transformation, U-Tapao (UTP) is the closest airport fielding commercial passenger flights - but only to three destinations. Often decribed as "Pattaya Airport", it's actually at Sattahip, just off the main Sattahip - Chanthaburi highway, 30 km south of Pattaya.

Schedules (all daily, as at January 1st 2006):

Bangkok Airways (PG) flies to/from Ko Samui (USM) and Phuket (HKT) - the flight to Ko Samui is usually slightly less expensive than from Don Muang (BKK)

- PG272 - UTP (12:10) to HKT (13:50)

- PG271 - HKT (14:20) to UTP (16:00)

- PG252 - HKT (09:20) via USM (10:40) to UTP (11:40)

- PG285 - USM (13:10) to UTP (14:10)

- PG286 - UTP (14:40) to USM (15:40)

- PG284 - UTP (16:30) to USM (17:30)

PMTair (U4) flies to/from Siem Reap (REP) (Angkor, Cambodia)

- U4241 - REP (11:00) to UTP (12:00)

- U4242 - UTP (12:30) to REP (13:30)

The easiest way to travel between U-Tapao and Pattaya is by direct door-to-door minibus - driving time is normally about 30 minutes (200-250 baht).

Alternatively it's feasible to hop on virtually any bus on Sukhumvit Road. Going south, if it's a bus that terminates at Sattahip you'll have to finish the journey by songthaew; if it's going further east (eg Rayong, Chanthaburi or Trat) it'll drop you off at the airport entrance as it goes by. Going north, wait for a bus that's going further than Sattahip and then you won't need to transfer. There are also songthaews that ply Sukhumvit Road between Pattaya and Sattahip (20 baht).

Or to buck the trend big time, go by rail (3rd class, weekdays only) between Pattaya and Sattahip, and connect with the airport by songthaew. The fare for the 40-50 minute train ride is 6 (yes, six!) baht - depart Pattaya 10:18, arrive Sattahip 11:00; depart Sattahip 13:30, arrive Pattaya 14:21 - but don't forget, no trains on Saturdays or Sundays.

Watch out! If you arrive at UTP by air you are presented only with a choice of a taxi to Pattaya at 1000 baht or a van at 1400 Baht. This seems to be a scam of the Thai army, as the van was driven by a Thai soldier. Make sure to organize your transfer beforehand (Bell Travel Service?)

via Bangkok

Don Muang on the northern outskirts of Bangkok is currently the nearest major airport. There are no commercial passenger flights between Don Muang (BKK) and U-Tapao.

bus/minibus/taxi/train transfers: see the Get in | By road and Get in | By train sections

Suvarnabhumi is nearing completion, and is currently due to be officially inaugurated on June 20th and to take over from Don Muang at the beginning of July, 2006. It's located some 40 km closer to Pattaya, around 60-90 minutes away by road, on Bangkok's eastern outskirts. An inter-provincial bus service directly connecting Suvarnabhumi Airport with Pattaya will be operated by the state-run Transport Co.

By train

Provided it's a weekday, the most economical way to travel between Pattaya and Bangkok by public transport is by rail - the one-way fare is just 31 baht, and if you've never experienced a 3rd class Thai train, this is a good one to try.

From Monday to Friday, a single daily 3rd class (non-aircon) train departs Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station at 06:55 and arrives in Pattaya at 10:18, before continuing on to Sattahip; it then returns via Pattaya at 14:21 and terminates back in Bangkok at 17:40 (on Saturdays and Sundays it turns back to Bangkok at Chachoengsao, so is of no practical use for getting to or from Pattaya at weekends). Regardless of direction, simply turn up and buy a ticket at the station - this train can't be pre-booked.

If you have a penchant for trains, time to kill, a late flight to catch, and it's not a weekend, then you can get from Pattaya (depart 14:21) to Don Muang (BKK) simply by changing trains at Hualamphong (this isn't feasible in the opposite direction because the only departure to Pattaya is at 06:55). Don Muang Train Station is alongside the airport, and directly connected to Terminal 1 by a short enclosed footbridge.

Pattaya Train Station (tel. +66-38429285) is located a little to the east of Sukhumvit Road, just north of the South Pattaya Road intersection. From Sukhumvit Road, turn into Soi Pornprapanimit and then turn left immediately before the road crosses the railway line; from Beach Road, budget around 40-50 baht for a motorbike taxi. Facilities include the ticket office, a small snacks / chilled drinks counter, toilets and a solitary payphone.

Tickets for the train to Bangkok (31 baht) or Sattahip (6 baht) can only be bought in the final 30 minutes prior to departure. The surcharge for transporting a bicycle (up to 20 kg) to or from Bangkok is 80 baht.

Tickets for other journeys can be purchased (up to a maximum of 60 days in advance) at Pattaya Train Station between 08:00 and 16:00; the same tickets can also be arranged through Pattaya agencies, who will add on a 200-300 baht markup to cover their assistance and the cost of sending a moto-taxi to collect the tickets from the station.

Get around

By songthaew

Apart from a handful of privately operated examples, Pattaya has no tuk-tuks and most ad hoc local transport is undertaken by a flotilla of over 700 dark blue coloured songthaews (pickup trucks converted to buses, also called baht buses or simply taxis). The official "bus" fare is 5 baht for trips within Pattaya, however foreigners are universally expected to pay 10 baht. Flat fares only apply when operating as a bus; beware the driver of an otherwise empty songthaew, especially one that's parked up at the roadside, who might presume (or decide on your behalf) that you want to charter - in which case expect a much higher fare of 100 baht or more, depending on your negotiating skills.

The busiest route is the beach loop: from the Dolphin Circle roundabout, south along the full length of Beach Road; briefly east along South Pattaya Road; and then north along the full length of Second Road, back to the Dolphin Circle roundabout. Frequency is virtually non-stop, and even at the most unlikely hours, average waiting time is literally no more than a few seconds.

The routes sometimes vary - for example with a left turn (from Beach Road or Second Road) into Central Pattaya Road; or no left turn at the Dolphin Circle roundabout (where Second Road, Beach Road and North Pattaya Road meet) and going straight on to Naklua (or even a right turn towards the bus station and Sukhumvit). The only way to know the route for sure is to ask (but don't let the driver mistake your asking as a charter request). Sometimes the driver will just decide to turn down a random soi for no apparent reason, or because he's just been hired as a taxi, but you'll still be expected to pay your 10 baht if you've ridden for more than a soi or two - however surprises such as these are few and far between.

It's also easy to catch songthaews along South Pattaya Road, Central Pattaya Road, and North Pattaya Road; in the case of the latter, there's often a songthaew waiting at the Dolphin Circle roundabout (they depart from here at regular intervals, or when full, and the fare to the bus station is 10 baht) and there's also a free songthaew service to the Carrefour supermarket on North Pattaya Road. If you're heading south, Jomtien bound songthaews wait at the beginning of Pratamnak Road (the continuation of Second Road, from the South Pattaya Road crossroads), and charge 30 baht; from Naklua you can catch a (white) songthaew out to Sukhumvit Road and on to Si Racha.

The white coloured songthaews ply Sukhumvit Road, going as far as Si Racha and Sattahip (20 baht); full-size buses to destinations as far away as Trat and even Chiang Mai also stop and pick up passengers on Sukhumvit Road (at the South Pattaya Road, Central Pattaya Road, and North Pattaya Road junctions).

If you're overcharged by a songthaew driver, note the three digit vehicle number (top left corner of the windscreen, also stencilled on both sides and in the back) and report the problem to:

• Pattaya City Manager: dial 038429216
• Banglamung District Baht Bus Cooperative: dial 038221271 / 038423554

By local bus

After long delays, a public bus system was test-launched in August 2005. The long-term plan is to operate air-con buses from 06:00 to 02:00 on three set routes (map) with scheduled stops; tickets 30 baht/trip, 90 baht/day, 180 baht/3-day and 900 baht/month. Brochures with detailed information of the routes and stops are available from the bus drivers, however time/frequency information is lacking. For updates, dial 038757340 /1 or e-mail pbb_bus@yahoo.com. On the new fliers distributed in March 2006 only the clockwise routes of the red and green lines are given which means that to go from Central Road to Jomtien you first have to go up to Naklua and Wat Kratingrai before going south on Sukhmvit. In other words the leg along Beach road has been scratched. Not an unfamiliar measure in view of the Songthaew mafia in all Thailand. The single trip has been reduced to 20 baht.

By motorbike taxi

The quickest way to get around is by motorcycle (motosai). A moto-taxi will be less expensive than a songthaew charter, but arguably less safe. Roadside moto-taxi stands are scattered throughout town, and waiting drivers usually clap their hands or sometimes call out to attract the attention of potential passengers; alternatively you can just flag down the next available one that cruises by, as the drivers are easily identified by their coloured vests. Some will even take two or more passengers; foreigners can expect to pay around 30-40 baht for trips around the inner parts of town.

By taxi

Meter-taxis are a common sight in and around Pattaya. All are from Bangkok; their drivers bring passengers from the capital, and then operate locally until a return fare becomes available. There are also some car services and non-metered taxis that operate on an on-call basis, and minibuses can also be chartered. These services are suited primarily to longer trips outside the core of the town or to another city, and can be arranged through most travel agencies and many hotels/guesthouses. Expect to pay considerably more than the cost of a songthaew charter, probably in the order of a few hundred baht.

Rentals

• legal requirements

Pattaya Police advise that all drivers and motorcyclists must carry a valid driving licence. Foreigners who do not have a Thai driving licence must carry with them their foreign driving licence and a valid International Driving Permit (IDP); failure to do so may invalidate your insurance cover. A foreign licence without an IDP may or may not get you through a quick spot-check; it will not suffice in the event of an accident. Note that an IDP can usually only be obtained in the country where the driving licence was originally issued. Thailand's minimum age for motorcyclists is 15, for car drivers 18.

Motorcyclists (including passengers) are required to wear crash helmets and to keep their headlights switched on at all times.

• insurance

In Pattaya (and in Thailand in general) it's not possible to rent motorcycles with insurance - usually the best strategy is to ensure in advance that the insurance you leave home with is going to cover you; alternatively, arrange cover with an insurance broker locally in Thailand. Cars can be rented with or without insurance; paying more than the absolute minimum in order to use one of the international franchises (eg Avis, Budget, Hertz - all of which are well represented in Pattaya - see contact information below) is generally the best way to ensure that the insurance you get is actually worth having.

Your insurance (regardless of source) may not be valid if the police declare that you were driving illegally (eg you were not carrying your licence/IDP with you) at the time of an accident.

If you rent a vehicle without insurance and it's damaged or stolen, the bottom line is that you will be required to pay in full the cost of repairing or replacing it.

• scams - see also the Stay Safe | Scams section

Most people who hire vehicles in Pattaya have a trouble-free experience, however there is undoubtedly considerable scope for unscrupulous rental operators to scam unsuspecting travellers. The best way to avoid scams is of course to use a reputable operator - for small motorcycles, the safest bet may be your hotel/guesthouse; for cars, one of the major rental chains.

Always secure motorcycles with both the steering lock and also with your own lock. The latter helps prevent a scam which sometimes occurs (not only in Pattaya) whereby the owner provides a lock for the customer to use, and then has someone follow the rented vehicle and later "steal" it, using a set of spare keys. Always report thefts - a "scam" theft vehicle may mysteriously "turn up" as soon as the police (especially the Tourist Police) become involved.

Another common rental scam involves the owner taking a deposit, and then later refusing to refund it in full on the basis that the customer is responsible for previous damage; the Tourist Police (dial 1155) may be able to help.

When renting cars, care needs to be taken to avoid paying for poor or bogus insurance - see the "insurance" section, above

• fuel

Fuel at large petrol stations is 24-27 baht/litre (as at January 2006). Small kerbside vendors who pump by hand from drums and/or pour from bottles charge a few baht more.

Motorcycles and Scooters

Motorbikes can be rented at countless locations, including many hotels and guesthouses. It's a very popular way to get around for many, but not the safest, especially in the case of visitors with limited previous experience of motorcycling and Thai traffic habits. Also note that a motorcyclist carrying a shoulder bag, and anything placed in the front basket of a motorcycle, makes an especially easy target for bag-snatchers.

Rates start at around 150 baht/day for recent 100-125cc semi-automatic (foot operated gearchange, automatic clutch) step-through models, 200 baht/day for fully automatic scooters; larger capacity models can also easily be found, although the rates reflect the risks - around 2500 baht/day for large capacity sport bike such as a Honda CBR1000RR. In all cases, lower prices will apply if paying up front for more than a week or so. It's common for foreigners to be asked to deposit their passports as security (to avoid this, simply shop around until you find one of the many places that will accept a photocopy instead); cash deposits are also often required. Bear in mind that both motorcycling accidents and motorbike thefts are common, and that motorcycle rentals do not include insurance.

When motorcycling, wearing a safety helmet is mandatory (for both drivers and passengers) and the police in Pattaya do enforce this. A helmet (or two, on request) is invariably included in the rental, however they are usually ultra-basic models with very flimsy chin-strap fasteners - if you're intending to travel extensively by motorcycle and you have a good quality helmet at home, it would be a good idea to bring it with you. If supplied a helmet with a chin-cup (many cheap rental helmets are), slide the cup up the strap out of the way and securely fasten the bare strap directly under the jaw (this is much safer; chin-cups are illegal in many countries). It's also mandatory for motorcyclists to keep their headlights on at all times (the latest Thai specification models have the headlight permanently on, with no switch to turn it off).

• Take It Easy, Pattaya New Plaza, Second Road; tel. +66-90077804 - has British management; sample prices:

- fully automatic 115cc scooter: 750 baht/4 days, 900 baht/week, 2900 baht/month

- Kawasaki KSR 115cc: 1100 baht/4 days, 1400 baht/week, 4400 baht/month

- Honda XR 250 trail/enduro: 2000 baht/4 days, 2900 baht/week, 10000 baht/month

• Cheap Charlies - tel. +66-38720452 (assorted rentals from 100 baht/day, plus used motorcycle sales)

• East Coast Choppers - tel. +66-38303113 (Harley Davidson rentals)

• Maipang Motorcycle Rentals - tel. +66-38361090 / +66-38303406

For long-term motorbike rentals, try "Jans" (tel. +66-38373594) who advertise rates from 2000 baht/month.

Cars and Jeeps

Cars can easily be rented, however this isn't such a practicable way to get around the busiest areas as traffic is often congested and parking space limited. Prices without insurance start from around 800 baht/day for small cars, and from as little as 600 baht/day for open-top jeeps; cars with insurance start at just under 1000 baht/day, and come down to around 5600 baht/week or 18000 baht/month.

• Avis - tel. +66-38361627 (Dusit Resort) or +66-38428755 (Hard Rock Hotel)

• Budget - tel. +66-38710717 (Beach Road)

• Chalee Car Rent - tel. +66-38720413 (Third Road)

• Hertz - tel. +66-26542553 (Marriot Resort) / tel. +66-38716693 (Sukhumvit Road)

• Holiday Car Rentals - tel. +66-38723814 (Second Road) / tel. +66-38426303 (Third Road)

• National - tel. +66-38416125 /6 (Liabchayhard Road)

• Q Cars - tel. +66-38231694 (Jomtien)

ATVs

Imac ATV Centre at the Beach Road end of Tipp Plaza, near Mike Shopping Mall - tel. +66-79532173 / +66-98884340 fax. +66-38227064 - has a small fleet of assorted models. Prices start at 1500 baht/day for a 4-stroke 150cc quad with road tyres that can carry two people; rates for larger models (some with off-road tyres) go as high as 3000 baht/day.

Bicycles

Bicycles could, until recently, be rented at Jomtien - however due to lack of demand the current options are to either bring your own, or buy one locally - see the Do | Sports | "cycling" section

Maps

online maps:

• Pattaya Street Map is available here or here (2600x1776 680 KB .GIF) - covers all of Naklua and Mabprachan Reservoir, but isn't so useful for Jomtien (for pinpointing Jomtien hotels, try this Jomtien map).

downloadable maps (suitable for PDAs & smartphones):

• Pattaya (210 KB .zip file / 72 dpi .GIFs)

• Jomtien (155 KB .zip file / 72 dpi .GIFs)

free booklet/magazine maps (readily available from many agencies, restaurants, reception desks, etc):

See

Animals & Zoos

• Aquariums & Submarines

• Underwater World Pattaya, 22/22 Moo 11 Sukhumvit Road (15 minutes from town centre); tel. +66-38756879. Aquarium full of tropical creatures. Open 09:00-18:00, last admission 17:30, feeding times 10:00, 10:30, 11:00, 14:00, 14:30, 15:00. Different prices for Thais (180 baht/adult, 120 baht/child) and foreigners (360 baht/adult, 180 baht/child).

• Institute of Marine Science Aquarium & Museum, Burapha University, 169 Long-Hard Bangsaen Road, Bangsaen; tel. +66-38391671 /3 is open 08:30-16:00 (feeding time 14:30), except public holidays (open 08:30-17:00, feeding times 10:30 + 14:30) and Mondays (closed); admission 20 baht/adult, 10 baht/child.

There are two submarines (yellow ones, of course!) with tour operators in Pattaya:

• Hynix of the Sea - main ticket office at the Second Road end of Tipp Plaza (near Soi 10); tel. +66-38711059 /60

• Vimantaitalay contact any Pattaya travel agency; or tel. +66-38415234

• Crocodiles - see the See | Theme Parks | "Million Years Stone Park & Pattaya Crocodile Farm" section

• Dolphins

• Oasis Seaworld, Paknam, Laemsing, Chanthaburi - full day guided trips including 45 minutes swimming with dolphins - approx. 2000 baht/adult 1500 baht/child - available via travel agencies.

• Sanctuary of Truth - see the See | Sacred places section

• Elephants

Elephant shows & trekking offered by several operators, most located on Sukhumvit Road. These include Ban Chang Thai tel. +66-3870628 /91, Utthayan Chang tel. +66-38716379, Thin Chang Thai tel. +66-38756516 / +66-38756577, Suan Chang tel. +66-38756517, Farm Chang Thai tel. +66-38237825.

• Elephant Village, 54/1 Moo 2, Tambol Nong Prue; tel+fax. +66-38249818, +66-38249853 offers shows, elephant trekking and jungle tours (including a four-day/three-night tour in Phrae Province).

• Monkeys

• Monkey Training Centre, Soi Chaiyaphruk (off Highway #3) tel. +66-38756367 / +66-38756570. Features monkeys trained to harvest coconuts and undertake other tasks. Also stages cockfighting (a traditional Thai bloodsport) and a snake show. Open daily, shows 09:00, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 17:00 - admission 250 baht.

• Snakes

• International Snake Show, Sukhumvit Road (39/4 Moo 5 - near the junction with North Pattaya Road) tel. +66-38731586 / snake_show@hotmail.com

• Zoos

• Khao Kheow Open Zoo (35 km north of Pattaya) tel. +66-38298270 . A huge zoo with about 8000 animals of 300 species. Open daily - 08:00-18:00, 50 baht/adult, 10-15 baht/child; Night Safari 19:00-20:00, 100 baht/adult, 50 baht/child.

• Sriracha Tiger Zoo, 341 Moo 3, Nongkham, Si Racha (30 minutes from town centre); tel. +66-38296556 . A zoo with various shows.

Gardens

• Nong Nooch Tropical Garden, 163 Sukhumvit Road (15 minutes east of town centre); tel. +66-38429321 . Beautiful gardens with waterfalls, elephant shows, "Cultural Extravaganza" performances 4 times a day, restaurants etc. - enough to fill an entire day.

• Saithip Butterfly Garden, 79/5 Moo 11 Bangpra-Khaokheow Road, Bangpra Sriracha; tel. +66-99365339. Open 08:00-17:00. Admission for foreigners: 100 baht/adult, 60 baht/child.

Museums

• Bottle Art Museum, 79/15 Moo 9, Sukhumvit Road, Nongpler; tel. +66-38422957, +66-38415783 . More than 300 miniatures in bottles, open 08:00-20:00.

Theme parks

• Gems Gallery, 555 Moo 6, North Pattaya Road; tel. +66-38371222. One of several "World's Biggest" jewelry stores, this one also has a theme park.

• Million Years Stone Park & Pattaya Crocodile Farm (15 minute drive from central Pattaya) . Features an exotic zoo, and crocodile, fire-swallowing and magic shows, as well as the garden and stone park. Open 08:00-18:30.

• Three Kingdoms Theme Park, 100 Moo 9, Tambon Pong; tel. +66-38421428 . Adjacent to Horseshoe Point (20 minutes from Pattaya), this is a Chinese-style garden filled with pagodas, murals and figures from the Chinese epic San Guo Zhi, and more an expression of filial piety than a theme park. Perhaps worth a quick look on a slow day, but unlikely to offer much to visitors not familiar with the story. 60 baht/adult, 30 baht/child.

Do

Beaches

Pattaya's main beaches are popular and busy places. For the thrill-seekers, activities include banana-boat rides, jet-skiing, water-skiing, parasailing, windsurfing, and the like; and anyone who just wants to enjoy a simple swim or a good splash around with a frisbee or rented inner tube will always find themselves with plenty of company. However, while in and beyond the surf, a wary eye does need to be kept on the more frenetic elements of the passing traffic.

For those more interested in inactivities there are acres of sand jam-packed with recliners and umbrellas (usually with an "in-house" supply of drinks), serviced by an army of laid-back but tenacious hawkers offering anything and everything from food (especially seafood, fruit, ice cream) to massage, manicure/pedicure, tattoos, lottery tickets, newspapers, herbs, flowers, gems, perfumes, sunglasses, CDs, watches, lighters, clothes, toys, souvenirs, handycrafts (it's a bit like TV shopping - as soon as you've declined one offer, it's time to consider another) and so on. Eventually you buy a very dark pair of sunglasses, and after that you just pretend to be asleep.

• Naklua's beaches are generally the cleanest and most suitable for quiet relaxation. To the far north, Naklua Beach is the main strip, with the smaller Crescent Moon Beach and Palm Beach to the south, and beyond them Wong Amat Beach (accessed via Naklua, but located at the northern end of Pattaya Bay).

• Pattaya Beach (Hat Pattaya) is around 3 km long and bordered by Beach Road. Due to its central location and extreme proximity to several hundred hotels, and because it's a relatively narrow strip of sand, it's crowded at the best of times (and even more so at high tide). Hefty fines for littering help keep the sand neat and tidy, however the sea is not so clean around here.

Beyond the southern tip of Pattaya Bay (Ao Pattaya), around the Buddha Hill headland that separates central Pattaya from Jomtien, are several smaller beaches.

• Dongtan Beach, at the northern end of Jomtien Bay, has a traffic-free promenade, and the area in front of the Avalon Beach Resort is popular with gay visitors.

Entertainment

see also the Drink (nightlife) section

Cinemas in Thailand tend to be severely air conditioned - bring a long sleeve shirt, or jacket, or both! Otherwise, the two large mall cinemas in Pattaya are mostly up to Western standards. Some (but by no means all) Thai-language films are subtitled in English (check the billing at the theatre) and some films will have both subtitled and non-subtitled showings.

Cinema patrons must stand during the King's anthem; singing along is generally frowned upon.

• SF Multiplex - Central Festival (Big-C) - tel. +66-38361500 (current movie showtimes) has six theatres with ticket prices around 90 baht, slightly more at weekends. The unripe mango for sale here are generally quite tasty.

• SF Multiplex - Royal Garden Plaza - tel. +66-38428057 (current movie showtimes) has two theatres, with prices 10-20 baht lower than the Central Festival location.

Video games are a popular pastime in Thailand, and PlayStation shops and computer game shops can be seen all over Pattaya. The usual rate is 20 baht/hour, making for pretty cheap entertainment, but expect things to get very crowded and loud in the hours after school lets out. There's a big shop on Soi Chaiyaphum (right off Soi Buakhao across from Soi Diana Inn) that's open 24/7 and has more comfortable chairs.

There are a couple of arcades in town - one is behind the cinema at Central Festival (Big-C), the other is in the Tesco Lotus complex on North Pattaya Road (but neither is worth getting excited about) - and touch-screen amusement machines are scattered throughout the shopping malls.

Songkran

Songkran is the Thai New Year, celebrated primarily by everyone throwing prodigious quantities of water at anything that moves. Pattaya officially celebrates Songkran on later dates (April 18-19) than most of the rest of the country (April 13-15) - but in reality the fun just starts early and keeps on going that much longer. During this period many hotels and guesthouses have high occupancy levels, and public transport services (especially buses to/from Bankok) are very busy, with more frequent than normal departures but also with appreciable delays due to the general mayhem on the roads.

For more on Songkran in general, including the more traditional religious and spiritual aspects, see Thailand | Holidays

Songkran in Pattaya follows the same overall pattern as seen elsewhere in Thailand, but is especially vigorous in areas such as Soi 7 and Soi 8. Expect to get very wet indeed and you're unlikely to be disappointed - regardless of where you go or what you actually plan to do. Although things calm down considerably after dusk, it's still worth keeping anything that could easily be damaged (especially cameras, passports, etc) in plastic bags.

As is the case throughout Thailand, Songkran is a particularly dangerous time on the roads, and especially for motorcyclists and moto-taxi passengers. It's also a bad time to get caught without protection for your luggage while travelling in a songthaew, so if arriving or departing during this period, either plan ahead (bin-liners are invaluable) or else take a taxi instead.

Note that the banks in Pattaya close for three days on the "national" dates (April 13-15) and are open as normal on the Pattaya-specific dates. Pattaya Immigration Office also closes on the "national" dates, and for the rest of the period hands back all passports pre-wrapped in a plastic bag, without being asked.

Learn

• Language and Thai Cultural School, 571/1 Pattaya-Naklua Road (right on the crest of the hill) tel. +66-38421919 open Mon-Fri 08:00-16:00, Sat 08:00-18:00. Teaches languages (Thai, English, German - rates depend on group size), Thai cookery (10 hours - 3900 baht + ingredients), fruit carving (10 hours - 3900 baht + materials, Ministry of Education certification available after 30 hours), Thai massage (10 hours - 3900 baht), and yoga/meditation (5 hours - 1900 baht).

Sports

Pattaya can provide for an entire holiday of sports and activities.

Pattaya Sports Club (tel. +66-38361167) is primarily an organisation for local sportsmen/women and has good online resources for those seeking to play golf or other sports while in the area.

• aerobics:

• A free open-air aerobics class is held alongside the beach next to the junction of Beach Road and Soi Yodsak (Soi 6) daily at 18:00.

• Aqua-aerobics exercise classes are held at the Dusit Resort Sports & Fitness Club - tel. +66-38425611 ext.226

• archery

• badminton:

• Ambassador City Sports Centre, 21/10 Moo 2 Sukhumvit Road - tel. +66-38231501 /4

• Pattaya Badminton Club, 390/10 Moo 10 Soi 17 (near Third Road, South Pattaya) tel. +66-38425397 / +66-38429532

• beach volleyball

• billiards / pool / snooker:

Every second or third bar in Pattaya has a pool table - that's a heck of a lot of tables - and there are numerous inter-bar/club pool leagues. Places to try if you're looking for a really good table include:

• Bowling Plus, Second Road (at the junction with Soi Regent Marina) has 6 pool tables plus 2 full-size snooker tables; air-con, open daily 10:00-02:00, 120 baht/table/hour.

• Hot Tuna Pool Club, Walking Street (opposite Tony's Entertainment Complex) has 5 pool tables in an open-fronted non-aircon bar setting and charges 20 baht/table/game; open daily 18:00-04:00.

• Inter Snooker Club, Pattaya-Naklua Road (right on the crest of the hill) is open 24/7 and has 11 full-size snooker tables (no pool). 90 baht/table/hour, or 140 baht/table/hour for one of the two private VIP rooms/tables.

• Match Room, P.S. Plaza (junction of Central Pattaya Road and Second Road) has 9 pool tables (80 baht/table/hour), 1 full-size snooker table (100 baht/table/hour), and air-con; open daily, 12:00-01:00.

• Megabreak Pool Lounge on Soi 13 (Soi Diana Inn) east of Second Road advertises itself as the most expensive place to play pool in Pattaya. 11 tables, air-con, open daily 11:30-01:00; prices start at 120 baht/per person/hour, evenings/weekend rates are even higher.

• Tim Bar Beer on Second Road (opposite Soi 12) has twelve tables and air-con and is open 12:00-01:00 or later - 75 baht/table/half-hour, 140 baht/table/hour.

• There are three full-size tables at the very back of the cluster of outdoor beer bars on Soi Made In Thailand (next to the Made In Thailand Night Plazar, on Second Road) - 20 baht/table/game or 60 baht/table/hour.

• bowling:

• Bowling Plus (previously "Pattaya Bowl") is on Second Road, at the junction with Soi Regent Marina (north Pattaya); tel. +66-38429908 / +66-38429466 - 20 lanes, Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00 70 baht & 17:00-02:00 80 baht, Sat-Sun-holidays 10:00-02:00 90 baht (all prices per person per game); shoe rental 30 baht (largest size US14/48).

• O.D. Bowl is on Pratamnak Road (south Pattaya) - open daily 08:00-01:00.

• bridge:

• Pattaya Bridge Club, tel. +66-38423108 /9 meets at the Mercure Hotel, Soi 15, on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays at 13:00.

• bungee jumping:

• Bungee Jump, 248/10 Moo 12 Thepprasit Road; tel. +66-38300608 - open 08:00-18:00.

• Jungle Bungy Jump (15 minutes from town centre) tel. +66-78336655 . Located in a beautiful tropical setting, 165 feet (50 metres) over a jungle lagoon. Will provide collect/return transport anywhere in Pattaya; open 09:00-18:00.

• climbing

• croquet

• cycling:

• buy - budget (from around 2000 baht for something basic but usable): see the Buy | Supermarkets section

• buy - mid-range: LA Bicycle, 300/31-32 Moo 12 Thepprasit Road; tel. +66-38300606 / 953 - open 09:00-20:00.

• buy - splurge: S.V. Bike Shop, 62/1-3 Thepprasit Road Soi 8; tel. +66-38300378 - open Mon-Sat 08:00-19:00 (2006 model Trek 4300 = 13500 baht; this costs around 10000 baht in Bangkok).

• buy - super-splurge: Chaw Numchai , 474 Moo 4 Sukhumvit Road (opposite Siam Commercial Bank), Naklua; tel. +66-38222018 - open daily 09:00-19:00 (NB: closed all day on the last Sunday of every month).

• dance:

• SalsaAmante Dance Studio, 268/5 Moo 6 Potisarn, Naklua; tel+fax. +66-38726982 Latin dance studio, specialising in teaching Salsa, Merengue and Bachata.

• elephant riding - see See | Animals & Zoos | "Elephants · Elephant Village"

• fishing:

• Jo Fishing Tackle Shop, 259/42 Moo 5 Soi Pothisan, Naklua; tel. +66-38367556 - small/mid-size shop absolutely packed to the gills(!) in a well organised fashion with all manner of fishing tackle, owner doesn't speak much English but is very friendly and helpful - open daily 08:00-20:00.

• Deep Sea Fishing excursions by Nature Service Tour (tel. +66-38427660) leave Bali Hai Pier on Saturdays, Tuesdays and Thursdays at 09:00, and return at 17:30. The 1220 baht/person price includes breakfast, lunch, a visit to a nearby island beach and swimming opportunities.

• Jomtien Fishing Park (pictures) is at Jomtien Beach Road Soi 14 and charges 100 baht/own rod, 200 baht to rent house rods. Guides are available, as is food (including your catch!) and drink. Competitions on Saturday and Sunday 15:00-17:00 (100 baht/rod).

• North Pattaya Fishing Park (pictures) also known as "Soi 3 Fishing Park" charges 100 baht/house rod, bait 20 baht/packet - and serves food and drink and has live music after dark.

• flying, paragliding & skydiving:

• Chonburi Flying Club (CMT) airstrip is 5 km east of Bang Phra, on the Chonburi-Pattaya bypass road (Highway #7).

• Eastern Flying Club airstrip is 5 km east of Pattaya, off Sukhumvit Road Soi 87.

• Pattaya Airpark airstrip is 20 km south of Pattaya, adjacent to the Phoenix Golf Club.

• Thai Flying Club is based at Bang Phra Airport, just north of Si Racha, about 30 minutes drive from Pattaya. Their website is a good resource for further information on recreational aviation in Thailand.

• football

• golf:

minigolf:

• The Mini Golf Pub (Thappraya Road; on the left just past the flyover when headed to Jomtien) - 18 holes, refreshments available; 100 baht/person, open 10:00-23:00. Their cat sometimes acts as a self-propelled obstacle (no extra charge).

• Pattaya City Golf (at the Nova Lodge Hotel on Beach Road, next to the junction with Pattaya Central Road) - 18 holes, plus chipping, driving and putting areas for the more serious golfer; refreshments served at the waterfront bar; 140 baht/person, open 09:00-01:00. Caddy service available!

driving ranges:

• Diana Driving Range, Diana Garden Resort, 209/112 Moo 6, North Pattaya Road (open daily 06:30-23:00) tel. +66-38415212 /23

• Harold's Golf Driving Range & Pro Golf Shop, Pratumnak Soi 4 tel. +66-38250658

• Green Way Driving Range, Sukhumvit Road - tel. +66-38232083

• Pattaya Driving Range, Third Road - tel. +66-38370462 /3

• Pride Driving Range, Sukhumvit Road (previously "Dono" - directly opposite Pattaya Central Road) tel. +66-38488349

• Tommy Driving Range, Thepprasit Road - tel. +66-38251564

golf clubs:

• Bangpra International Golf Club - tel. +66-38341149 /50

• Burapha Golf Club tel. +66-38345151 /2 / +66-38345611 /13

• The Century Golf & Country Club (Rayong) - tel. +66-38602889 / +66-38603999

• Chonburi Century Country Club - tel. +66-22606000

• Eastern Star Resort Country Club - tel. +66-38630410 /17

• Great Lake Golf & Country Club - tel. +66-13211913

• Khao Kheaw Country Club tel. +66-38298224

• Laemchabang International Country Club tel. +66-38372273

• Legacy Crystal Bay Golf Club tel. +66-38349370 /80

• Legacy Mountain Shadow Golf Club tel. +66-38393001 /8

• Noble Place Golf Resort & Country Club tel. +66-14849066 / +66-14849069

• Pattaya Country Club & Resort tel. +66-12112491 / +66-12120278

• Phoenix Golf & Country Club - tel. +66-38239391 /8

• Plutaluang Navy Golf Course tel. +66-38431189

• Rayong Green Valley Country Club - tel. +66-38603000 /5

• Royal Lakeside Golf Club & Resort - tel. +66-38573275 /9

• Siam Country Club Golf Course - tel. +66-38249381 /6

• Soi Dao Highland Golf Course - tel. +66-39322831 /2

• Sriracha Golf Club tel. +66-38338375 /8

• St. Andrews 2000 Golf Club - tel. +66-38893807 /8

• Treasure Hill Golf & Country Club - tel. +66-38420766

• gyms:

• Central Pattaya Gym, Pratamnak Road (next to Central Pattaya Hotel) tel. +66-38364573 /80. A small non-aircon weights-orientated gym, open daily 08:00-23:00; 60 baht/day, 250 baht/week, 700 baht/month (includes limited free use of swimming pool), 7000 baht/year (includes unlimited free use of swimming pool).

• Hardbody Fitness Gym (401/17 Moo 12, Thappraya Road, Jomtien - no telephone) is another small non-aircon weights-orientated gym. Open daily 08:30-21:00; 75 baht/day, 300 baht/week, 500 baht/fortnight, 750 baht/month, 2000 baht/3m, 3500 baht/6m, 6000 baht/year.

• Sitpholek World Class Fitness Centre, 217/10 Sukhumvit Road (north Pattaya); tel. +66-99345001 (English) / +66-95055840 (Thai) / sitpholek_frank@hotmail.com - attached to a Muay Thai (Thai boxing) centre, friendly and helpful staff, air-con. Open daily 09:00-00:00; 120 baht/day, 400 baht/week, 600 baht/fortnight, 1000 baht/month, 1750 baht/2m, 2000 baht/3m, 4500 baht/6m, 8000 baht/year - or any 10 days for 750 baht (no expiry date).

• Tony's Gym & Muay Thai Academy, Third Road (340/6 - two blocks north of the junction with Pattaya South Road); tel. +66-38414058 /9. Modern air-con gym oriented more towards the body-building brigade, also offers spa/sauna/steam room & "Japanese style" massage as well as Muay Thai training facilities. Open 24/7; prices 150 baht/visit, 790 baht/week, 1290 baht/2w, 1490 baht/3w, 1590 baht/month, 3990 baht/3m, 5990 baht/year, 18000 baht/life - or 1200 baht for 10 visits within one 30 day period. see also the "Muay Thai" section (below)

• Tony's Tennis Club & Fitness Center, Third Road (313/5 Moo 10 - just south of the junction with Pattaya South Road); tel. +66-38488548 /9. Modern air-con gym and general keep-fit facility, also offers aerobics, yoga, tennis, swimming pool, spa/sauna/steam room & "Japanese style" massage, as well as tennis facilities. Personal trainers also available, from 500 baht/hour. Open 24/7, except for the swimming pool which is closed 23:00-06:00. Prices - gym: 180 baht/visit, 2000 baht/2w, 2200 baht/3w, 2400 baht/month, 6000 baht/3m, 7500 baht/6m, 12000 baht/year, 29900 baht/life - or 1600 baht for 10 visits within one 30 day period; aerobics: 950 baht/month; swimming: 180 baht/adult, 99 baht/child, swimming lessons 2200 baht/10hrs, 4000 baht/20hrs. see also the "Tennis" section (below)

• horse riding:

• Horseshoe Point, 100 Moo 9, Tambon Pong; tel. +66-38735050 . One of South-East Asia's largest and most respected riding schools, catering to all experience levels and offering private lessons for 1600 baht/hour (discounts available for groups of 5+ and multi-lesson packages).

• Horse back riding, Highway #36 (near Bira International Circuit - about 18 km from Pattaya) willinetzer@yahoo.com tel. +66-13020814

• Jojo Horse Club, 284/54 Moo 5 Naklua Road; tel. +66-38225149 jojo@chonburi.ksc.co.th

• Pattaya Riding Club, 111/1 Moo 12 Thepprasit Road; tel. +66-38255888

• hot air balloon flights:

• Funk's Ballonfahrten offers a 4-5 hour experience including collection at around 05:00, refreshments, one hour baloon flight, champagne breakfast, certificate, and transport back to your hotel around 11:00 for 8500 baht. Daily from November through March.

• jet-skiing rentals are available along all the popular beaches, with rates starting around 600 baht for 30 minutes. A common scam involves some operators attempting to collect surcharges for supposed damage - call the Tourist Police (1155) if necessary.

• jogging - see the "running" section, below

• kitesurfing - see the "windsurfing & kitesurfing" section, below

• motorsport:

• Bira International Circuit (tel. +66-22803547 / +66-25221731 /8) is about 15 km from Pattaya on the Pattaya-Rayong Road (Highway #36) and hosts 2 and 4 wheel race events at weekends. Highside Tours offers one day (16000) and three day (60000 baht) motorcycle track-day packages at Bira - see their website for details.

• A.N. ATVs & Motocross, Thepprasit Road (near Pattaya Kart Speedway); tel. +66-46778452 / +66-52227882. Small off-road circuit, open daily 09:00-18:00 (not floodlit).

• K.R. Go-Kart, 62/125 Moo 12 Thepprasit Road; tel. +66-38300347 /9. Large tarmac circuit, refreshments available; open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:30, Sat/Sun & public holidays 09:00-20:00 (floodlit).

• Pattaya Kart Speedway, 248/2 Moo 12 Thepprasit Road; tel. +66-38422044 . "Beginner", "Professional", and "off-road" tracks; open daily 09:30-18:30 (not floodlit).

• Siam Karting Circuit, 387 Moo 6 Sukhumvit Road (near Mini Siam) tel. +66-38727410 open daily 09:00-21:00.

• mountain biking - see the "cycling" section, above

• Muay Thai:

• Thai boxing matches can be seen at numerous locations, including several of the beer bar complexes off Beach Road and one complex on Walking Street.

• Fairtex Muay Thai Sportclub & Resort, 179/201 Moo 5, North Pattaya Road, Naklua; tel. +66-38488196 / +66-38488657 /8

• Pattaya Kombat Village (Muay Thai Training School), Darapan 3 93/123 Moo 12, Soi 8 Khoatalo Nongprue Banglamung; tel. +66-95433450 . Certified courses, for everyone to learn and practice Thai boxing.

• Sitpholek Boxing Centre, 217/10 Sukhumvit Road (north Pattaya); tel. +66-99345001 (English) / +66-95055840 (Thai) / sitpholek_frank@hotmail.com Mon-Sat 14:00-20:00 (the attached gym is open 09:00-00:00 seven days a week). 270 baht/day, 1100 baht/week, 2000 baht/fortnight, 3500 baht/month - or 2250 baht for any 10 days (no expiry date).

• Tony's Gym & Muay Thai Academy, Third Road (see "gyms" section, above, for details) is open 14:30-20:30. Two prices for everything - the lower price if you're already paying to use the attached gym, otherwise the higher price: 180/280 baht/day, 950/1400 baht /week, 1500/2400 baht/fortnight, 2000/1490 baht/3w, 2800/3900 baht/month - or 1500/2300 baht for 10 visits (no expiry date).

• paintballing:

• Paintball Park, 248/10 Moo 12 Thepprasit Road; tel. +66-38300608 - open 08:00-18:00

• Paintball World, Jomtien Beach Road; tel. +66-38232796

• parasailing / parascending:

• Speedboat-towed parachute rides are available along the main beaches, and in Pattaya Bay from several large floating platforms with speedboats ferrying customers out from the shore - typically about 500 baht per flight.

• pool - see the "billiards / pool / snooker" section, above

• rugby:

• Pattaya Panthers Rugby club - c/o Jameson's The Irish Pub, 80/146 Moo 9 Soi Sukrudee (Soi A.R.) - tel. +66-38415304 /8

• running:

• jogging (and even walking) around Pattaya can be a potentially hazardous affair: crazy drivers, traffic fumes, non-existent sidewalks or loose pavements, low-hanging electric wires and awnings, and dogs are just a few of the obstacles you'll encounter. Your best bet might be Naklua - less crowded beaches, wider streets, less traffic and even a few trees - but take care at night as it's poorly lit. There's a new walkway around the ocean side of the Dusit Resort that connects the north and south beaches; or for a few football-pitch sized laps on grass, try the "Sky World Fun Park" behind the Inter Snooker Club on the Pattaya-Naklua Road (right on the crest of the hill).

• Pattaya Hash House Harriers (tel. +66-38410265 / +66-38420071) meet every Monday at 15:00 at the Scandinavia Bar & Restaurant on Beach Road (between Soi 13 and Soi Yamoto (Soi 13/1)); weekly run sets off every Monday at 16:00 from The Hare House, Soi Post Office (Soi 13/2).

• Pattaya Marathon websites: www.pattaya-marathon.com & www.thailandmarathon.org

• sailing:

• Gulf Charters Thailand tel. +66-38237752 fax. +66-38237751 manages a fleet of ten 32 foot to 70 foot catamaran and keelboat sailing yachts based at Ocean Marina (near Pattaya) and at Ko Chang. Bookings accepted direct and via travel agencies.

• Jomtien Yacht Club, 104 Moo 1 Sukhumvit Road; tel. +66-38232774 fax. +66-38232774

• Ocean Marina Yacht Club, 274/1-9 Moo 4 Sukhumvit Road (Sattahip); tel. +66-237310 /23 fax. +66-38237325

• Royal Varuna Yacht Club, 286 Moo 12 Pratamnak Road; tel. +66-38250116 / +66-38306290 fax. +66-38250115

• Siam Sailing, 668/10 Naklua Road; tel. +66-38427269. Offers a number of packages including full/half day trips, beach and island trips, sunset dinner cruises and private charters.

• Scuba dive training and trips for a wide range of ability levels and interests, certified by a number of different organisations, including both NAUI and PADI, are available through numerous dive shops. Dive sites

• Adventure Divers and Watersports (Adventure Scuba) tel. +66-38710899 (Soi Yamato (Soi 13/1)) / +66-38364453 (Tappraya Road)

• Aquanauts tel. +66-38361724 (Soi Yodsak (Soi 6)) / tel. +66-38710727 (Soi Pattayaland 1 (Soi 13/3))

• Aqua Relax - tel. +66-38710900 (Soi Post Office (Soi 13/2))

• Asian Sport asport@loxinfo.co.th tel. +66-38373700 /1 (Sukhumvit Road)

• Dave's Divers Den - tel. +66-38420411 (Central Pattaya Road)

• Dive South East Asia tel. +66-38362300 (Nova Lodge Hotel, Central Road)

• Mermaids Scuba Diving Centre tel. +66-38232219 / 220 (Jomtien Beach Road)

• Neptune Dive Centre tel. +66-38710131 (Pratamnak Road)

• Paradise Scuba Divers tel+fax. +66-38710567 (Soi 10) / tel+fax. +66-38303333 (Jomtien)

• P J Scuba tel. +66-18644490 (Jomtien Beach Road)

• Scuba Tek Dive Center rickr@loxinfo.co.th tel. +66-38361616 (Second Road)

• Seaduction Dive Center andycrosby@hotmail.com tel. +66-60765668 (Bali Hai Pier)

• Seafari Dive Center tel. +66-38429060 (Soi 5)

• Siam Divers tel. +66-38710329 (Beach Road)

• shooting:

• Pattaya Shooting Club and Fishing Park, 1/6 Moo 4 Soi Wat Huay-Yai, Sukhumvit Road (10 minutes from town centre) tel. +66-38255488.

• Tiffany's Shooting Range, 464 Moo 9, Second Road (Tiffany's Show building, ground floor) tel. +66-38421700 /5 fax. +66-38421711 tiffany@tiffany-show.co.th. The only indoor shooting range in Pattaya - 19 lanes, minimum age 18, open daily 09:00-21:00.

• Ko Laan has an outdoor shooting range located just north of Naban Pier that's open daily 07:30-17:00, with prices from 400 baht for six rounds with a handgun - see the Beaches | Islands section

• snooker - see the "billiards / pool / snooker" section, above

• squash:

• Ambassador City Sports Centre, 21/10 Moo 2 Sukhumvit Road - tel. +66-38231501 /4

• Dusit Resort Sports & Fitness Club, 240/2 Moo 5 Pattaya-Naklua Road - tel. +66-38425611

• sports clubs:

• Bamrung Sport Club (Huai Sak Nok reservoir, off Sukhumvit Road - tel. +66-38249841) provides facilities for canoeing and kayaking, horse riding, paragliding, sailing (including catamarans), and windsurfing.

• swimming:

• Honey Inn (Soi Honey Inn, off Second Road) has a fairly quiet pool which is open 24/7. There's also a bar, a pool table, and an assortment of sun loungers. Non-guests: 50 baht/day.

• Mike Shopping Mall (see Malls) has a large rooftop pool - take the elevator or stairs up to the 10th floor (the escalators don't go that far). There's a very small snacks counter and a good view of most of Pattaya Bay. Get there early to grab one of the sun loungers, and don't forget your swimming costume (shorts are not permitted). Open 11:00-19:00, 80 baht/adult, 60 baht/child, or 1600 baht for a one month pass.

• tennis:

• Pattaya Tennis Association

• Tony's Tennis Club & Fitness Center, Third Road (see "gyms" section, above, for details) is open 24/7 and charges 120/220 baht/daytime, 210/310 baht/nighttime (the lower price if you're already paying to use the attached gym/pool/etc, otherwise the higher price); 50 baht for racket hire, 100 baht for locker/towel rental.

• water skiing & wakeboarding:

• Air-Time Watersports Camp, Dok Krai Lakeside Resort, Dok Krai Reservoir (Rayong); tel. +66-18616736

• Lakeland Water Cable Ski (Highway #3 - tel. +66-38232690 /2) about 5 km from Pattaya has cable ski facilities on a large freshwater lake. Open daily 10:00-21:00.

• windsurfing & kitesurfing:

• Amara Windsurfing (Jomtien Beach) tel.+66-18629958 fax. +66-38233276

• Club Loong Chat Watersport Club (on the beach by the Pinnacle Hotel)

• Cuttlebone Kiteboarding School

Volunteering

• Care For Kids Charity Drive is a well established and respected group raising funds for worthwhile causes and having as much fun as possible while they're at it. Their events are always worth a visit - make contact through their website.

• Fr. Ray Foundation (map) manages several social projects in Pattaya and volunteers (both short and long term) are essential to their work. Donations and sponsorships are also welcome and appreciated - contact them through their website or tel. +66-38716628 fax. +66-38716629.

• Pattaya Orphanage Trust welcomes volunteers of all ages (but must speak fluent English and be prepared to stay 6 months or longer). Visits can be arranged - tel. +66-38438717.

Buy

You're in Thailand, so you know shopping is never far away. There are numerous large malls, small malls, supermarkets, bazaar-style markets, and thousands of other shops. Sadly, you'll be seeing a lot of the same stuff over and over again - there's no endless variety here.

Pattaya is not a good place to go shopping for hi-tech products such as cameras, computers, etc - as a very rough guide, expect to see prices around 50% higher than the best prices advertised in the west.

Foreign currency can easily be exchanged for Thai baht at the many exchange booths which can be found in all areas popular with tourists - there are even mobile exchanges/ATMs in specially adapted minivans that are set up as and when and where the need arises. Note that the majority of exchange booths will buy foreign currency but will not sell it - if you need to obtain USD (for example if you're going to Cambodia) use one of the larger branches of a major bank (eg the Bangkok Bank branch on Second Road).

Supermarkets

Pattaya has a veritable trolley-load of supermarkets, including:

Friendship is the most westerner-oriented and has large selections of cheese, bread, wine etc.

Markets

There are many bazaar-style markets in Pattaya where you can haggle 'till you drop, including...

• Thepprasit Market on Thepprasit Road near the junction with Sukhumvit Road - Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings.

• Soi Buakhao Market on the corner of South Pattaya Road and Soi Buakhao, across from the Friendship supermarket - daytime, Tuesday and Friday; plus an evening market further along the same road.

• Made In Thailand Night Plazar (sic) on Second Road near Soi 10 - daily 08:00-23:00 (despite the name).

• The Market Pattaya on Second Road near Soi 5 is a little lonely but some evenings has students giving music or dance performances on a small stage.

...any many more, including one on Second Road near Soi 2, next to Tiffany's Show.

Shops

Books

• Book Variety : Big C, South Pattaya Road; Carrefour, Central Pattaya Road; Tuk.Com (Com City)

• D.K. Book Mart, corner of Beach Road and Central Pattaya Road; tel. +66-38429359 - medium-size bookshop with lots of English titles, including a sizeable cookery book section, and a worthwhile selection of second-hand paperbacks at 99 baht - open 09:00-00:00.

• Jeremy's Bookshop, 383/111 Soi Chaiyaphum (which connects Soi Buakhao Road and Third Road); tel. +66-38411266 - an immaculate library-style English language paperback exchange, large selection, mostly priced ~100~250 baht. If you buy a book here and then return it in good condition, you'll get a credit of 50% of the original price towards your next purchase - open daily 09:00-22:00.

• Pattaya Beach Books has two locations: 1st floor, P.S. Plaza (junction of Second Road and Central Pattaya Road); tel+fax. +66-38362175 / pattayabeachbooks@yahoo.com and also at 316/137 Moo 10 Soi Buakhao. Both shops are open daily 10:00-20:00 and have a huge selection of "pre-owned" English language books and magazines - mags ~50~60 baht, paperbacks ~140~160 baht, hardbacks ~180 baht plus. If you buy a book here and then return it in good condition, you'll get a credit of 50% of the original price towards your next purchase.

• SE-ED Big C, South Pattaya Road; Carrefour, Central Pattaya Road; Tesco-Lotus, North Pattaya Road; Tesco-Lotus, Sukhumvit Road

• Swan Book Shop, 210/6 Soi Buakhao - large selection of second-hand foreign language paperbacks, mostly priced 100-180 baht - open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00.

Convenience stores are everywhere, especially 7-Eleven and Family Mart shops (all open 24/7), plus countless independents. If you use the family run shops the prices aren't always marked but should be the same, or just a baht or two higher, and you'll have the satisfaction of knowing your money isn't flowing back to the USA or Japan.

Pharmacies are plentiful and for most medications a prescription is not required. Viagra (etc.) is available from most. The international Boots and Watsons chains each have locations at Central Festival (Big-C) and Royal Garden Plaza malls (Boots also have a store in Walking Street, open 12:00-02:00), and their pharmacists tend to have above-average English skills.

• Fascino, North Pattaya Road . A huge store and a good place to try if you're having trouble finding what you need. Also has also some medical equipment (e.g. wheelchairs & walkers).

Gold shops abound, with concentrations around the market on South Pattaya Road and around Central Pattaya Road near Second Road, plus numerous jewelry shops towards the south end of Beach Road.

Tailor shops are everywhere. Are there any good ones?

Eat

You're in Thailand, so you know food is never far away. There are heaps of restaurants, food carts, food courts, food markets, motorcyle-sidecar hotdog and meatball vendors, fruit sellers both mobile and stationary, even a roaming coffee peddling tuk-tuk. OK, so the germ theory of disease doesn't yet seem to be widely accepted but don't let that stop you from ordering the sushi.

Many (although not all) non-Thai-cuisine restaurants also have at least a limited menu of Thai favorites as well.

Budget

• The noodle stall next to the entrance to the North Pattaya Road bus station does a passable ba mii moo daeng (egg noodles with red pork) for 25 baht.

• Carrefour food court, Pattaya Klang (near Third Road). has good food including excellent & cheap Isaan treats like som tam (papaya salad) and khao neow (sticky rice).

• Kiss Food & Drink, Second Road (Mike Shopping Mall). Open 24 hours. Serves cheap and cheerful Thai and Western food.

• Kiss Food & Drink (facing Dolphin Roundabout). Open 24 hours. Serves cheap and cheerful Thai and Western food.

• Subway now has four locations in Pattaya: South Pattaya Road, next-door-but-one to the entrance to Walking Street (24/7); Beach Road, at the front of Tipp Plaza (09:00-02:00); Second Road, opposite Soi 1 (10:00-02:00); Central Pattaya Road, on the ground floor of Carrefour (09:00-23:00) - or dial 038360083 for free delivery. From 49 baht for a Veggie Delite Deli Style Sandwich up to 2600 baht for a 6 foot Giant Sub!

Mid-range

• Apex Hotel on Second Road (adjacent to Soi 11; see the Sleep | Budget section) serves all-you-can-eat buffets - American breakfast from 07:00-13:00 (110 baht/adult, 60 baht/child) and dinner from 18:00-22:00 (180 baht/adult, 100 baht/child).

• Bier-Kutsche German Restaurant in Walking Street between Soi BJ and Soi Lucky Star is a good German restaurant with moderate prices.

• Cool Kitchen in the PS Bowl/Tops Supermarket complex (junction of Central Pattaya Road and Second Road) has good Western and Thai food including narm tok mu (spicy pork salad) and yum pla dook fu (crispy catfish salad), and is open 24/7.

• Cool House (next to PS Bowl/Tops Supermarket) is Cool Kitchen's sister restaurant, with much the same menu but more ambiance.

• Food Wave food court, top floor of Royal Garden Plaza, is an upscale food court with decent views of the ocean. There's even an Orange Julius nearby - Mmmmm!

• Lek Hotel in Soi 13 (see the Sleep | Mid-range section) serves a large variety of Thai, Western and international favourites and is open to non-guests. The buffet breakfast (07:00-13:00, 110 baht/adult, 60 baht/child) is especially popular, and the buffet dinner (18:00-22:30, 180 baht/adult, 100 baht/child) also draws a crowd.

• MK Restaurant has locations in various malls including Central Festival (Big-C). A chain of Suki restaurants whose jingle translates as "Eat what? Eat what? Eat what? Go eat MK!" (it loses something in the translation) and that's just what you should do. Here you'll get to boil raw ingredients right at your own table with your own utensils. And don't worry about putting those chopsticks in your mouth after touching that raw chicken - just dip them in the boiling water for a few moments.

• Nachrichtentreff, 157/128 Moo 5, Pattaya-Naklua Road; tel. +66-38370173. Serves pretty good Austrian food.

Splurge

• Art Café, Pattaya Naklua Road Soi 16; tel. +66-38367652 is housed in a colonial-style house set in its own gardens, with the "...ambience of the good old days combined with the comfort of the new era..."

• Benihana international Japanese steakhouse chain has a location on the second floor of Royal Garden Plaza. Expect to pay around 1000 baht/person, excluding alcoholic drinks.

• Bruno's Restaurant on Thappraya Road is a fine dining restaurant serving both excellent European cuisine and some Thai dishes. Multi-course set menus from around 400 baht/person, à la carte also available.

• The Green Bottle on the ground floor of the Diana Hotel has good steaks and other food.

• Hard Rock Cafe (in the grounds of the Hard Rock Hotel resort on Beach Road) serves American food from essentially the same menu as elsewhere in the world, from 11:00 until 02:00. Starters 99-377 baht, salads 199-266 baht, mains 277-810 baht, deserts 111-222 baht, beer 122-255 baht/bottle.

Vegetarian

• Five Star J. Restaurant ("jay"="vegetable"), at the junction of South Pattaya Road and Third Road; tel. +66-38421105. A small inexpensive indoor place that's 100% vegetarian and has a vegetarian owner/manager who speaks good English; also caters for vegans - open 09:00-21:00.

• J Vegetarian Restaurant, 256/10 Moo 5 Naklua Soi 20 (next to Sousiree Massage, near Dusit Resort Hotel); tel. +66-38428305 - open 08:00-20:00.

• Thammachart Vegetarian Restaurant, 56/36 Moo 5 Amorn Market, Pattaya-Naklua Road (North Pattaya); tel. +66-38726911. Basic café-style budget place, also has a very small vegetarian supplies shop. Not much English spoken, but does have a bi-lingual menu - open Mon-Sat 05:30-17:00

• Vegetarian Club of Pattaya meets at 18:00 on the second Tuesday of every month for an "international vegetarian adventure buffet" (99 baht, reservations required - tel. +66-38710805) at Café New Orleans, Soi Pattayaland 2 (Soi 13/4) - see also the Contact | Clubs & Associations section

• Thai Vegetarian Union website has news and information on vegetarianism and veganism in Thailand.

Drink

see also the Stay Safe | Drinking section

Pattaya is internationally known for its nightlife. Although it's infamous as a sex tourist destination, there are ample opportunities to dance, drink, and observe humanity even if paid sex is not of interest.

prices - a very rough guide: small Heineken (330ml) / Bacardi Breezer (275ml)

• 7-11 (open 24/7 but alcohol only sold 11:00-14:00 + 17:00-00:00): 38 baht / 55 baht
• small restaurants: ~50~55 baht / ~120 baht
• beer bars: ~70~75 baht / ~120~130 baht
• go-go bars: ~90~99 baht / ~150 baht
• discos: ~150 baht / ~200 baht

In beer bars and go-go bars, drinks bought for employees - "lady drinks" - are (very roughly 50%) more expensive; the actual price is often posted on the wall and/or in the drinks menu.

Beer bars

Pattaya is especially famous for its beer bars (also called bar-beer), staffed by "bar girls" who are "for hire" to the tourists and ex-pats who drink there. Popular beer bar pastimes include pool, connect-four and shut-the-box.

Open-air beer bars can be found all over Pattaya, with the biggest and best known concentrations being along and around Soi 7 / Soi 8 and Walking Street, at numerous points along Second Road, Beach Road, and Soi Buakhao, throughout the southern end of Naklua, and in smaller numbers just about everywhere else, including Jomtien. Although the staff of a typical beer bar will usually all be prostitutes, customers who have no intention of paying a "bar fine" (money paid to the bar so that the girl can leave with the customer) are generally very welcome and indeed make up the majority of the clientele.

Indoor beer bars can also be found all over Pattaya, the most notorious areas being Soi Yodsak (Soi 6) and parts of Soi Post Office (Soi 13/2). While some of these bars are much more "bar fine" oriented, in most cases customers who simply want to buy drinks are still welcome.

The official closing time in "entertainment zones" is 01:00 (in practice usually somewhere between 01:00 and 02:00, depending on the location) and 00:00 elsewhere - however "closing" is defined as switching off the music and non-essential lighting, and numerous beer bars remain open 24/7.

A proposal to permit bars in the Walking Street area to remain "fully" open until 03:00 (and for the pedestrian-only restrictions to be extended to suit) is likely to be implemented some time in February 2006.

Go-go bars

Also called a-go-go bars, the main concentrations are along Walking Street and the three Pattayaland streets, with more dotted around the most popular beer bar areas and a handful at Jomtien; most come to life at around 20:00, all close between 01:00 and 02:00.

Sight-seeing tourists are welcome in go-go bars, however cameras are not. Signs prohibiting photography are widespread, and a minority of venues require patrons to deposit their cameras with security staff as they enter.

Popular bar venues

So, you're passing through Pattaya and you've set aside a few hours to check out the bar scene - but where to go? The most popular (and generally the most densely concentrated) beer bar and go-go bar locations (listed south to north) are:

• Walking Street

Should have been named "Walking, Shopping, Eating, Drinking, Dancing and Ogling Street" as there's plenty of almost everything here - including around 100 beer bars and at least 30 go-go bars, plus many more in the side-sois that lead east towards Pratamnak Road. Worth a look in the daytime, but best visited in the evening, and has loads of restaurants if you're bridging the gap between the two. Gets really packed in places when the discos empty, so watch your pockets. If you're going to visit just one go-go, you could try "Super Baby" in Soi Diamond, whose reputation for having the most attractive girls (not a stretch mark as far as the eye could see) in its heyday a year or two back made it a mandatory stop for countless busloads of Asian tourists. While that's no longer quite the case, it's still a good bet as a hassle-free "middle of the road" place to see.

• Pattayaland

Soi Pattayaland 2 (Soi 13/4) features on many a Pattaya postcard - when lit up at night, the go-go bar signs are a memorable and photogenic sight, although there are in fact only eight go-go bars here (two of which feature guys, not girls), plus a half-dozen bars and the Penthouse Hotel. Worth a look in the evening (it's almost a ghost town the rest of the time), but get there before 01:00 as that's when the lights go out. Soi Pattayaland 3 ("Boyz Town" - no access from Beach Road, runs from the middle of Soi 13/4 to Second Road) features only male dancers and bars that cater for the gay crowd; Soi Pattayaland 1 (Soi 13/3) has even more all-male go-gos (eight), but does have a couple of girlie-go-gos too.

• Soi 7 & Soi 8

There's always something going on here - in the evening and early hours, there are about 120 well-staffed beer bars to choose from, plus a handful of go-go bars; in the morning there are several places that serve breakfast; in the afternoon it's a popular place for those who like to get started early; and at Songkran, it's unmitigated mayhem. The "Night Out" complex (10 large outdoor bars, on a side-soi that connects Soi 7 and Pattaya Central Road) is about as family-orientated as these places ever get, and has live music from 20:00-01:00. There are several large hotels (light sleepers beware), and Soi 8 also has a few travel agencies, convenience stores, etc.

• Soi Yodsak (Soi 6)

Imagine a kerb-crawlers paradise - and then pedestrianise it. Arguably Pattaya's most colourful street (as well as most notorious), Soi 6 has about 50 bars (mostly "short time" bars, with names such as "Butterfly", "Love Club", "Route 69" and "The Eager Beaver") which all get going at 13:00 and close pretty much on the dot at 01:00. It's not really a pedestrian-only street (but it is one-way), however walking - preferably in broad daylight - is undoubtedly the best and most popular way to experience it. Go in the middle of the afternoon and just wander from one end to the other (if coming from the south, walk from the Second Road end down to the Beach Road end if you want to get there and back by songthaew). It's much, much more "sex-tourist" than "tourism" oriented, but anyone and everyone is welcome everywhere provided they're buying a drink. The curiously named "Hi Boss! 2002 Pub" is where the ladyboys hang out, there's one go-go - "Mandarin" (dancing from 17:00 till 01:00), plus a couple of "pub" food possibilities; and neighbouring Soi 6/1 has a handful of "ordinary" outdoor beer bars.

• Second Road - around the Soi 2 & Soi 3 junctions

On the west side of Second Road opposite the Central Festival Centre is a collection of about 35 very popular beer bars, which start to fill up from about 16:00, and several of which remain open long after the lights go out around 01:00-02:00. "Atlantic Bar", at the far end of the five-bar strip to the south of Soi 2, always draws a substantial crowd. The only go-go ("Classroom 2", 19:30-02:00) is a lively one, and while there's not much in the way of food in amongst the bars themselves, there are numerous eating options nearby (including outlets for most of the major fast-food chains on the opposite side of Second Road).

10 assorted "same-same but different" bar styles

• Freestyle : Casino Club at the Pratamnak Road end of Soi Diamond is an a-go-go with a difference - not only do the girls dance with their clothes on, but there are no chrome poles! - whatever will they think of next? Despite the name, it's not a casino; maybe it's a disc-o-go-go? The atmosphere is lively, the music is techno, the dancing is energetic, the hours are 21:00-04:00 (apparently able to close later than most due to the non-conformist format).

• Gay : Boyz Town (the whole of Soi Pattayaland 3) is the place to head for to see the male go-go dancers, likewise Soi Pattayaland 1 (Soi 13/3). Same applies for girls who want to ogle (exactly the same) guys. Pattayaland 1 is relatively dead in the daytime, but Pattayaland 3 has a handful of places to eat and drink that keep it ticking over in the afternoon.

• Ladyboys : Jenny Star Bar in Walking Street (below Peppermint Palace) is wall-to-wall transvestites - seeing is believing, especially late in the evening and in the small hours. It's an open-air bar that spills out onto the pavement, and there's often quite a crowd gawking intently from a safe distance - so mind your pockets.

• Latin : Jupiter Go-Go (previously "Planet Rock") at the Second Road end of Soi Pattayaland 2 (Soi 13/4) has a salsa/samba/merengue night every Friday - the girls are on stage from 18:00 until 01:00 (or later) and seem to enjoy the change.

• Lesbian : Club Boesché in Soi 16 (connects Walking Street to Pratamnak Road) is a brand new split-level go-go which also has a large Jacuzzi-style tub sunk into the floor in front of the bar, occupied in shifts by pairs of uninhibited young ladies non-stop from 20:00 until 01:00 (or later). "Normal" (for a go-go) priced drinks and no cover charge.

• Live : Tim Bar Beer on Second Road (opposite Soi 12) is an otherwise relatively run-off-the-mill go-go that plays nothing but DVDs, with a very strong bias towards live performances of rock'n'roll classics. Requests welcome - if in doubt, ask for Meatloaf's "Paradise By The Dashboard Light". Stage and screen come to life at 18:00 and keep going until at least 02:00 (closing hours not so strictly enforced here as it's not in amongst a bunch of other bars), but get there early as it's a popular place and their army of dancers thins out with prodigious speed.

• Loud : Beach Inn Beer Garden on Walking Street (opposite the FLB Bar) can usually be found blindfold. Head through to the back and out into the bars that target visitors from the Middle-East, and feel the sound - some of the speaker systems here are bigger than a budget hotel room, and it's not difficult to position yourself so that you're being deafened by three or four of them (each one playing something different) all at the same time. (At the other extreme, there used to be a "Quiet Bar" on Second Road - but it closed not long after it opened, apparently due to lack of demand...)

• Revolving : Carousel Beer Bar is a pair of circular outdoor bars in the centre of Soi Diamond (directly off Walking Street) which spin from 17:00 until 03:00. A couple of drinks here and the world really will start to revolve around you.

• Sardines : Sealand Bar Complex (Beach Road, just before the Walking Street entrance archway) is a crush of about 25 ancient open-air beer bars (open 16:00-03:00) surrounding a boxing ring (exhibition matches at various intervals between 20:00 and 01:00). Get there early in the evening and it looks like there must be a prize on offer for whoever is able to squeeze the greatest number of bar girls into the smallest beer b