Phnom Penh
From MaxTravelz
Phnom Penh is the capital and largest city of Cambodia. Despite its reputation as a 'rough' city, Phnom Penh is easy to get around and is a great introduction to Cambodia.
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Understand
For western visitors, even those who have visited other Asian cities, Phnom Penh can be a bit of a shock. It is very hot and (in the dry season) dusty, its infrastructure is undeveloped, and it is a very poor city - much poorer than, for example, Bangkok or Saigon. The visitor who cannot adjust to rubbish filled streets, fluctuating electricity supply, and large numbers of beggars, should probably give Phnom Penh a miss.
Those who find themselves struggling with Phnom Penh's current state should recall the terrible times the city has been through in recent decades. In 1975 it was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then U.S.-backed government and the Khmer Rouge. After its fall to the Khmer Rouge in April, it was completely emptied of civilians and allowed to crumble for the next four years. Most of the already small class of skilled professionals were murdered or driven into exile. The city fell to the Vietnamese Army in 1979, but the new Cambodian government had no money to spend on urban improvement until the peace settlement of 1992.
As Cambodia's economy has recovered a new rich class has arisen in Phnom Penh, and a crop of new hotels and restaurants has opened to accommodate them and the tourist trade; as yet however there's very little in between the extremely rich and the extremely poor.
As of today, Phnom Penh has changed its image drastically with new paved roads, beautiful gardens along the mightly Mekong river and a considerable make-up on the majority part of the city.
Get in
See Cambodia for more information on getting into Cambodia.
By plane
Phnom Penh's Pochentong Airport (PNH) is Cambodia's largest international airport and most flights into the country pass through there. There are daily flights from all major regional airports (Bangkok, Hong Kong, Saigon, Singapore) as well as from Luang Prabang in Laos. Airlines include Bangkok Airways, Lao Aviation, Shanghai Airlines, Thai Airways, Silk Air, Dragon Air, among others. Malaysian low-cost carrier Air Asia has also started flying daily flights from Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur, making Phnom Penh a cheap gateway into Cambodia.
Visas are available on arrival, and the fee is $20 - which must be paid in USD. Bring a passport-sized photo to avoid an additional $1 charge. The airport has a post office, bank (including one of the country's few ATMs), restaurants, Duty Free shop, news stand, tourist help desk, Business Center, as well as a Dairy Queen, the only western fast food franchise in the country.
Taxis from the airport run about $7 US. For visitors on a budget without a lot of luggage, it's worth catching an official moto for $2, or walking out to the main road to save even more.
By bus
There are bus service to Phnom Penh from Poipet (on the border with Thailand) and Vietnam, as well as Siem Reap (Angkor Wat) and Battambang to the west, and Sihanoukville to the south. Buses are the most affordable option; tickets can be bought (normally without any hassle) at the main bus station near the Central market, or from most guesthouses / hotels / agencies. Some minibus services cater exclusively to Western tourists.
By boat
Ferries connect Phnom Penh to Siem Reap in the north-west and Vietnam to the east. These are much more scenic than the bus ride, but run in $20-$30 range. Many (but not all) of these ferries offer the choice of sitting inside or on the roof. Inside you might get seasick; outside you might get sunburnt (take sunblock and a hat), or wet (depending on the conditions and exactly where you sit).
Get around
A general rule of thumb is to be sure to negotiate a price before one enters any of these vehicles.
By taxi
Vehicles recognizable as taxis are non-existent in the city. There is a taxi service, but one must call and usually wait for a while before the driver shows up. Even then these "taxis" do not have meters and the visitor is advised to address the issue of fare before the trip begins.
By mototaxi, motorbike, and cyclo
The Cambodian version of the tuk-tuk consists of a motor-cycle with a cabin for the passenger hitched to the back. They are cheaper than taxis and offer a more realistic experience of the city.
There are also hordes of young men on motorcycles, motodups in local parlance, who will take you anywhere for a small fare. This is quickest way to get around, if your nerves can stand it.
The cyclo, also known as velotaxi or cycle-rickshaw, is another means of transport in the city, although considerably slower then the mototaxis. These three-wheeled vehicles are gradually becoming less common in the city, as mototaxis increasingly choke up the roads, but they are still popular among Cambodians and foreign tourists alike. The nature of the seat lends itself to a quick and easy way to transport a load of goods from one place to another, one should not be surprised to see all manner of items being transported in this way, even other cyclos and the occasional motorbike as well.
On foot
Phnom Penh's streets and footpaths are rutted and pot-holed, and are clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motos, sleeping people, livestock and building materials. This makes walking anywhere a challenge, as cars and motos will not stop for pedestrians. Travellers should master the fine art of street-crossing early in their visit. Phnom Penh has almost no street lighting off the major boulevards and walking at night is not recommended.
See
- Tuol Sleng Known during the Khmer Rouge regime as S-21 this former school was converted into Cambodias most important prison in 1975. More than 10,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the Killing fields south of Phnom Penh. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia's horrific recent past. For a introduction and further reading try David Chandler's "voices from S 21".
- Sisowath Quay for a real taste of terre indochine and one of the best combinations of south-east Asia and French colonial style, this is the place to be. Look for place with a view of the river, order a cafe au lait [coffee with milk] (or whatever), and enjoy the atmosphere. The river is extremely dirty but it looks OK from a distance.
- Royal Palace/Silver Pagoda The Royal Palace and two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds (the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha) are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology to Cambodian designs, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly intact. See them early before it gets too hot. They are in any case closed from 11am to 2pm, when all sensible Cambodians have a nap.
- Independence and Liberation memorials The impressive Buddhist-style Independence Memorial, commemorating the departure of the French in 1953, dominates the centre of the city. Nearby is the very ugly Stalinoid-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. Although the Cambodians were glad to see the back of the Khmer Rouge, they don't like the Vietnamese much either, and have demonstrated this by neglecting the memorial for 20 years. It seems to be used mainly as a convenient urinal.
- The Killing Fields About 17km south of Phnom Penh is Cheoung Ek, where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of human skulls - the sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed. It is a serene yet somber place. The road is bad even by Cambodian standards, so take a taxi and not a moto.
- Near Cheoung Ek is a shooting range where travellers can fire weapons not legally available in the West. Rumors abound that cows and other farm animals used to serve as targets, but this is no longer the case. Prices range from $30 for an AK-47 to $200 for a rocket launcher.
- On your way back from the Killing Fields be sure to check out the shocking Stung Meanchey Garbage Dump where hundreds of the poorest of the poor, including many small children, swarm over mountains of refuse hoping to find anything of value.
- The National Museum A little dry but it gives an interesting overview of the art and culture of Cambodia many years ago and is a relief after the Killing Fields/Tuol Sleng.
Buy
As of October 2005, there is a bigger push from the Cambodian government to use the Riel, the national currency, but most travellers are suprised to find that most transaction are done in U.S. dollars. Take lots of low denomination U.S. dollar notes, but leave your coins at home. In place of coins you will get back Riel, at an approximate exchange rate of 4000 to the dollar. The basic price for everything in Phnom Penh is "one dollar, one dollar."
- Russian Market and Central Market both offer an experience of vivid commercial life and the opportunity to buy "designer clothing", "original swiss watches" and "software" at prices speaking another language The Russian market is the better option although it's slightly further out of town. It also sells the best ice coffee in the city.
- Stef Happy Painting Has fun and funky paintings of Cambodian life - a welcome relief after visiting some of Cambodia's more heart-breaking attractions. There's a boutique directly beneath the Foreign Correspondent's Club (FCC) in Phnom Penh.
Eat
Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats you won't find elsewhere in the country. Many of these include French-influenced dining as well as Thai, Vietnamese, and modern takes on traditional Cambodian dishes. The standard pizza-banana pancake-fried rice backpacker fare is also always easy to find.
The best area to wander is along the riverfront where everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros can be found. Take great care eating from stalls, however. Peeled fruit and vegetables and anything uncooked should be regarded with suspicion.
Budget
Take the cross river ferry to sit on mats and eat cheap hawker food while watching the sunset over the city.
- Setsara thai restaurant (#3D Street 278) is a very nice, little thai restaurant with a really good thai chef, good music, reasonable prices and good service thought a bit long sometimes. They have some good french specialities as well.
- La Croisette, Corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 144. French sidewalk cafe. Open all day.
- Nouveau Pho de Paris, #26E Monivong. International Asian. Popular budget meals.
Mid-range
- Lazy Gecko (23B Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake) has a really, really good hamburger.
- Frizz restaurant. #335, Sisowath Quay. Traditional Cambodian cuisine.
- Bali Cafe (379 Sisowath Quay) has pretty good Indonesian food. Try the Tahu Telur (Fried Tofu with Eggs). Be careful ordering water or you'll get the $3 small plastic bottle of Evian!
- Paris Bubble Tea (285-287 Preah Monivong not far from the New York Hotel) is pleasant and has fun and refreshing Bubble Tea. Try the classic Pearl Milk Tea. 023 990 373
- Le Duo (Street 322, between Monivong and Street 63) has excellent Italian food. Sicilian born Luigi makes great pastas and pizzas.
- Friends Restaurant (215 Street 13 just 50m north of the National Museum), run by and for a nonprofit that rehabilitates Cambodia's street children, has delicious international tapas and main dishes.
Splurge
- FCC.(Foreign correspondents club) 363 Sisowath Quay. Superb views of the river have got their price; favourite expat hang-out. Does particularly good desserts.
- Le Bistrot, #4D, Street 29. French and Italian. In an old villa.
- Xiang Palace (Hotel Intercontinental) Chinese. Expensive fine dining. Dim Sum.
Drink
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A word of advice Most of the time bars in Phnom Penh are safe enough and a lot of fun, however, security is bad in most bars. Avoid any confrontations with local elite youth: they are above the law in Cambodia and commonly carry weapons on their body or in their vehicle. They normally have the ability to pass through security by intimidation and reputation. They will be found at some of the more "hip" bars and clubs in town. |
Places to hangout after dark include Street 104, which has about ten different style bars to visit and more recently Street 278 also packed with cool bars and guesthouses. Choose from restaurant bars to girlie bars.
- DV8, #7 Street 148 (near the riverfront), . Singles bar. Great if you're a single guy.
- Equinox, St. 278 (near st 51), . Cocktails bar, paintings and photos exhibits, gaming room, cool tunes, good food.
- Heart of Darkness. Long the most infamous nightclub in Phnom Penh, closed in August 2005 after a patron was shot to death but is now back in business. Saturday nights are always packed so go early. Be aware that some seating is reserved for well heeled (gangster elite) Phnom Penh local youth, so move if you are asked to do so, or, better yet, give this place a miss entirely.
- Martini Pub & Disco, #45 St.95 (one block off Monivong Blvd, across from the Total Gas Station, just ask any mototaxi). Infamous girlie bar. Two full bars, Food $2 to $6, Burgers & Fries, Pizza, Asian Dishes, gaming room, Disco, Outdoor big-screen showing movies or sports. There some "copy cat" Martini bars in other places like Sihanoukeville and Siem Reap, but this is the real legendary Martini bar of Phnom Penh. A place for single men and loose ladies.
- OneZeroFour . Has a BBQ on Sundays.
Sleep
Budget
Low-cost backpacker accommodation is becoming more abundant by the week. Most is clustered either near the riverfront or at Boeung Kak Lake.
- King Guesthouse - 141th Street, off Sihanouk Avenue. Telephone No.220512. Ample rooms available to suit your budget. Provides own daily bus service to and from Ho Chi Minh City.
- Top banana guesthouse, #2 St 278, . Very nice guesthouse, real travelers athmosphere. Great food ! A must-to-stay
- DV8 Guesthouse & Bar, #7 St 148, tel. 012 620 441/012 776 885, . Small boutique guesthouse located just off the riverfront; ground floor bar, second floor pool table. Rooms from $5 to $25.
- Rory's Guesthouse, #33 St 178 (facing the Royal Palace and National Museum and 100 meters from the riverfront); tel 012425702 . Rooms from $10 to $30.
- Number Nine Guesthouse, #9 St 93 Boeung Kak Lake, tel. 012 766 225, 012 935 813. Well known and popular.
- Number Nine Sister Guesthouse, 012 424 240, around the corner. As the name says it's a sister outlet of the original Number Nine, but not as nice.
- Simon's Guesthouse, #11 St 93 Boeung Kak lake, 012 884 650. Tricky to find but the layout of the rooms allows for a nice, cool breeze.
Mid-range
- Golden Gate Hotel, No.9, Street 278, Sangkat Beng Keng Kang 1, Khan Chamkarmorn (near the Independence Monument), tel. +855 23 427618, . Reliable place to stay with a range of hotel rooms, from $15 for a single in the older block to $40 or more for a suite in the new block. Clean, safe and comfortable. Great place for long-term stays, with discounted rates. Restaurants, shops and internet cafes within walking distance.
Luxury
There are a surprising number of 4 and 5 star hotels in Phnom Penh.
- Raffles Le Royal American owned 5 star hotel. Near Wat Phnom.
- Intercontinental Hotel A favorite among visiting dignitaries.
- Phnom Penh Hotel On Monivong, just south of the French Embassy. Newly renovated, the rooms and suites are very nicely appointed.
Stay safe
Phnom Penh has a partly deserved bad reputation. While your odds of being robbed at gunpoint by cops or soldiers are much lower than in Cambodia's civil war days, your odds of being robbed at gunpoint by common hoodlums are correspondingly higher - official figures (almost certainly underestimates) report an average of 50 incidents per month (Cambodians and foreigners), leading to 5 deaths and 10 serious injuries. Avoid walking at night, try to find a dependable moto driver and don't carry more than necessary. Another serious problem is bag-snatching by thieves on bikes. If you must carry one, try to keep it on the side facing away from the street.
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