Taos
From MaxTravelz
Taos is a town in New Mexico in the United States, about a two hours' drive from Santa Fe. It is noted for its art colony, skiing, and Taos Pueblo, a photogenic American Indian community that is open to visitors under controlled conditions. These attractions have made it a popular tourist destination in recent years.
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Understand
First things first: "Taos" rhymes with "house" or "mouse," as pronounced in "American" English.
The town of Taos itself is one of several places with "Taos" in their name, all part of the region and contributors to its attractiveness but differing in just what the attractions are. Ranchos de Taos is a small village south of Taos proper that is notable for a spectacularly scenic and much-photographed church. Taos Pueblo is just north of town, an ancient American Indian community (and UNESCO World Heritage Site) in a particularly beautiful setting. Taos Ski Valley, also known as Twining, is about 20 miles (30 km) north of town in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Finally, the Taos Box is a section of the nearby Rio Grande known for its superb whitewater. Before setting out for an attraction, know exactly which Taos you're visiting; attractions outside Taos proper but in Ranchos de Taos, Taos Pueblo or Taos Ski Valley are covered below with those for the town, while more distant attractions are under Get out.
Get in
By plane
As of fall 2005, no commercial airlines serve Taos. However, it has had intermittent service by commuter lines flying from Albuquerque in the past. The Albuquerque Sunport, three hours' driving time distant, is the nearest airport with extensive commercial air service.
By car
Taos' position on the west slopes of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains restricts road access somewhat, as there are few passes through the mountains and the ones that exist may be closed in the winter due to snow. Coming from Denver and other points north, there are two options: either follow Interstate Highway 25 to Raton and then US Highway 64 over Palo Flechado Pass and into Taos, or follow Colorado state road 159 south to the New Mexico border, at which point it becomes New Mexico state road 552 and continues to Taos.
There are also two routes into Taos from Santa Fe and Albuquerque. The most direct route follows US Highway 285 through Pojoaque to Española, then New Mexico state road 68 along the banks of the Rio Grande to Taos. There are a number of scenic viewpoints on this road; it's worth stopping to see if river runners are on the Rio, particularly during high water (spring) at which time this stretch of river is one of the finest whitewater experiences in the continental United States. The slower and higher, but even more scenic, "High Road to Taos" diverges at Pojoaque and first follows New Mexico 503 to Chimayo, then New Mexico 76 (becomes 75) to Peñasco and New Mexico 518 to outlying Ranchos de Taos and finally Taos itself. This is a beautiful drive in the spring and summer; the Sangre de Cristos are snow-capped until June or so, while later in the summer, the thunderstorms that build over the mountains provide a different kind of elemental beauty.
By bus
There is limited Greyhound service to Santa Fe and to points in southern Colorado.
Get around
There's simply no way around it: Taos is a pain to drive in. The main drag through town and past the in-town tourist areas, Paseo del Pueblo (New Mexico 68/US 64), was built for an era with a tenth as many tourists on the road as now, and the downtown area consequently sees improbable traffic jams that evoke Los Angeles at rush hour. If you're staying in one of the hotels in the middle of town, get to the hotel, park the car, and get around on foot; the downtown area is small and compact enough for it to be practical. Bicycling is also feasible, as the town is not as hilly as its environs. For getting to some of the outlying attractions (see under Get out), though, you'll just have to drive. If you must pass through downtown en route to them, plan on an extra 15 or 20 minutes, and some acid indigestion.
Taos Trolley Tours runs bus tours that reach most of the main attractions. The trolley-style bus won't move any more quickly through traffic than your car will, but using it will at least save you some aggravation behind the wheel, and reduce the congestion slightly for the other drivers. Call 505-751-0366 for details; usually closed during the winter.
See
- The main plaza in Taos is a great place for people-watching. Pull up a bench and watch the world go by.
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The "Taos Hum" Taos is a well-known center for "spiritual" activities of various kinds, some of them relating to the curious and possibly mythical phenomenon of the Taos Hum. Many visitors claim to be able to hear a persistent, low rumbling or buzzing sound not attributable to the traffic of town or other obvious sources. Possible explanations have been posed ranging from the pedestrian (static discharges in the mountains, power lines that are heard but not seen) to the outlandish (secret government facilities nearby, some manner of UFO nexus). Sober-sided skeptics insist that there isn't really a Hum at all and that its perception results from visitors from noisier lands being unused to the general solitude and silence of the rural area. If you want to try to hear the Hum, get out of the downtown area, which is too congested to hear a "hum" of anything but traffic, and spend some time in the forest, particularly early in the morning or at night if you're equipped for it. |
- A number of the houses near the plaza that belonged to founders of the art colony or other significant personages have been turned into museums and galleries. Among these are the Hacienda de los Martinez, Fechin Institute, Kit Carson Home and Museum, and Governor Bent Home. The Harwood Museum of Art is also worth a visit. Most are open on a 10-to-5 basis year-round (may be closed Mondays) and charge small admission fees.
- The Church of San Francisco de Asis, in Ranchos de Taos, is an incredibly photogenic example of the churches founded in New Mexico during the Spanish mission period. It's a short drive from downtown Taos on New Mexico 68 and close enough to the highway that you won't have to spend more than 15 minutes getting to and from it if you want to settle for a quick visit. For serious photography and painting, you may have to join a crowd of other aspiring artists. Tours of the interior are available except around times of worship services.
- Taos Pueblo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site owing to its history, culture, and beauty. The pueblo is open to visitors daily (fee) from 8 a.m. until 4:30, although it closes occasionally for religious ceremonies, including an extended closure in early spring, usually around Easter. There is an additional fee for photography, etc. You can drive to the pueblo if you don't mind the frustration of navigating through downtown Taos traffic, but Taos Trolley Tours visits it on one of their regular tours and may be a less aggravating way of getting there. Note that there's now a casino at the pueblo, if you go for that sort of thing; this one is notable for being entirely non-smoking.
Do
- Ski. Taos Ski Valley is a major downhill ski locale, usually with the best snow in New Mexico if not the entire Southwest. The slopes usually open on Thanksgiving weekend and close in early April, although early season snow can be sparse and spring conditions slushy. This is a challenging hill, and beginners may feel more comfortable on one of the nearby areas listed under "Get out," but the expert skier can have a fantastic time here, although not all of the tough runs are open during the drought winter of 2005-6. One caution: there is Nordic (cross-country) skiing up-valley from the downhill area, but the valley is prone to avalanches, and Nordic skiers have died there. If the locals warn you against skiing (downhill or Nordic) outside the safe areas due to avalanche hazard, take them seriously.
- There are a number of fine hikes in the mountains after the skiing ends and the snow melts, with trailheads at Taos Ski Valley and elsewhere. Wheeler Peak, the highest summit in New Mexico at 13,161', is on the ridge opposite the main ski runs and is a popular hiking destination. Do not underestimate this mountain. In addition to the avalanche hazard during the winter, bad weather can strike at any time of the year and turn what is normally a hands-in-the-pockets walk into a life-threatening, and sometimes -ending, experience.
- The Taos Box offers superb river running on the Rio Grande during the spring and summer. Several outfitters and guide companies operate out of Taos, and there are others based in small towns between Taos and Española. Some with acceptable reputations are Far Flung Adventures, phone 800-359-2627; Los Rios River Runners, 800-544-1181; Native Sons Adventures, 800-753-7559. There are probably others; if you have a good (or bad) experience with one, expand this list.
Learn
- Ski lessons are available at Taos Ski Valley.
Buy
- Taos Pueblo, like other New Mexico pueblos, is known for American Indian arts and crafts. Its pottery differs considerably in appearance from that of other pueblos owing to differences in the clay of the region. Good Taos pottery has a unique "sparkle" caused by tiny flecks of mica. Many shops in town carry this pottery, along with jewelry and other folk art from pueblos along the Rio Grande, but it's worth your time to look for pottery and jewelry at the pueblo itself.
- More traditional "Anglo" (and Hispanic) art is available from all manner of galleries in the downtown area, as well as at gift shops associated with most of the museums.
- If you want to update your ski equipment, many shops at Taos Ski Valley and in Taos itself will be happy to help you empty your bank account on the latest and greatest skis, boots, etc.
Eat
Budget
- Michael's Kitchen, 304C Paseo del Pueblo Norte. A long-time local favorite, casual and busy. Great for breakfast, which is served all day. The New Mexican lunches and dinners are variable. Open 7 days, but closed on major holidays.
- Ofelia's Tamales Mexican Food, 715 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, (505) 758-5446.
Mid-range
- Alley Cantina, 121 Teresina Lane. Right near the plaza. Delicious fish and chips, margaritas.
Splurge
- Lambert's of Taos, 309 Paseo del Pueblo Sur (just south of the Plaza), 758-1009. An old standby with mainly "American" cuisine. Dinner only, 7 days; reservations suggested.
Drink
- Tim's Stray Dog Cantina is one of several watering holes at Taos Ski Valley and is open for much of the year beyond ski season. Food is nothing to write home about, but the raucous apres-ski atmosphere persists into the rest of the year and provides a pleasant environment for relaxing after a hike into the mountains.
Sleep
Phone numbers for hotels in Taos have area code 505 unless otherwise noted. There are many hotels and B&Bs in this area, owing to the thriving tourist trade, and many of them are quite good yet not on this list; if you've stayed at a notable one, please add it, with comments.
Budget
- Taos Valley RV & Camping Park on Estes Es Road, off of Paseo del Pueblo (Highway 68), 758-4469. Friendly place, nicely landscaped with privacy fences and shelters at most of the tent sites.
Mid-range
- The Fechin Inn is conveniently located in downtown Taos. Phone 800-811-2935; web site http://www.FechinInn.com . Rooms from $89, according to some sources, but others (including the web site) give a starting rate of $120 or more, which may place it in "Splurge" territory. Either way, the proximity to downtown is worth something. The usual upper-but-not-top-end amenities.
- Best Western Kachina Lodge, 413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 758-2275, is another satisfactory hotel in the downtown area.
- Lodging at Taos Ski Valley generally falls off in value-per-dollar with proximity to the ski runs, but Alpine Village Suites is right at the foot of the runs, is reasonably priced, has unusually large and comfortable rooms for a ski lodge, and stays open in the summer. Phone 576-2666; web site http://www.alpine-suites.com .
Splurge
- Casa de las Chimeneas, 405 Cordoba Rd (southwest of the center of town), 758-4777, is perhaps the best -- and most expensive -- of a number of B&Bs in the region. Non-smoking rooms only, 2 night minimum.
Contact
Stay safe
The areas of and near Taos of most interest to the traveler generally have little crime, although the potential for petty theft from unlocked cars always exists, particularly in remote areas (e.g. at trailheads in the national forest). The main concerns are weather and road hazards. Winters can be harsh, particularly at higher elevations, and the wise motorist uses snow tires and has chains or 4 wheel drive available from November through March. Keeping warm clothing and an emergency kit in the car during this time is a good idea. Heavy snow creates hazards for outdoor recreation as well; use extreme caution in the mountains, as avalanche conditions are frequent. During the summer a different hazard appears: lightning. The Sangre de Cristos generate thunderstorms that produce frequent cloud-to-ground strikes. If you go hiking in the high country during summer, make sure you're off the high summits by 1 p.m. at the latest, and keep an eye out for earlier-than-normal electrical activity.
Another contributor to safety concerns on the roadways is the unfortunate but undeniable fact that northern New Mexico has severe problems with drunk driving. Taos has less problems itself with this than some nearby areas, but vigilance on the highways is still a good idea, particularly after dark and on the highways into and outside the town.
Cope
- Spirits of Beauty Salon, 223 Paseo del Pueblo, (505) 758-1178. Haircut, $32.
Get out
- Carson National Forest offers all manner of hiking, backpacking and horseback riding opportunities. Three wilderness areas are within a short distance of Taos.
- The Sangre de Cristo Mountains contain part of the national forest and much else, and extend south to Santa Fe and north into Colorado. There are major ski areas at Angel Fire and Red River on the eastern side of the range not far from Taos, as well as Sipapu to the south. Inquire locally as to the status of Ski Rio north of town; it has been struggling financially and may be out of business for the 2005-6 season. All are in general somewhat easier skiing than the notoriously "challenging" Taos Ski Valley, and see more beginners. Red River also has a developed commercial site for Nordic (cross-country) skiing on groomed trails. The drive to these areas is scenic even if you don't ski.
- The Rio Grande Gorge Bridge on US Highway 64 (about 10 miles west of town) spans the Rio Grande a dizzying 650 feet above the river. There are observation platforms at each end of the bridge. Definitely not for the acrophobic.
- If you happen to be a fan of author D. H. Lawrence (one of the contributors to the Taos mystique in the early 20th century), his ashes are preserved at a curious "shrine" at the Kiowa Ranch, a property of the University of New Mexico about 20 miles from town via SR 522. It's open for visits during daylight hours.
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