Tokyo/Kichijoji

From MaxTravelz

Kichijōji (吉祥寺) is a western suburb of Tokyo. The highlight is Inokashira Park, a large park with long walking paths surrounding a lake. The park is filled with both cherry trees and maples, making Inokashira Park an excellent choice for both flower viewing (お花見 ohanami) in the spring, and the autumn colors (紅葉 kōyō) in the fall. Kichijōji once enjoyed a reputation as an artists' colony, and today it is filled with stores from little boutiques to the big department stores. Kichijōji seems to attract everyone, from upscale shoppers to would-be hip-hop dancers practicing in train station.

Contents 1 Get in 1.1 By train 1.2 By bus 2 See 3 Buy 4 Eat 5 Drink 5.1 Cafes 5.2 Bars 6 Sleep

Get in

By train

Kichijōji is on the JR Chūō Line (中央線) and Sōbu Line (総武線). Chūō trains depart from Tokyo Station on platforms 1 and 2 (30 minutes; ¥380), and from Shinjuku on platform 10 (15 minutes; ¥210). Fast trains designated Special Rapid, including Chūō Special Rapid (中央特快 chūō-tokkai), Ome Special Rapid (青梅特快 ōme-tokkai), and Commuter Special Rapid (通勤特快 tsūkin-tokkai), do not stop at Kichijōji.

Kichijōji is also the terminus of the Keiō Inokashira Line (京王井の頭線) from Shibuya (15/25 minutes express/regular, both ¥190).

By bus

Bus service connects Kichijōji directly with Narita Airport and Haneda Airport. Pick up the bus on the east side of the train station, underneath the JR tracks. Reservations are highly recommended during peak times, with tickets available at the Odakyu Bus ticket window (小田急バス案内所) on the south side of the station, facing Marui department store. Buses for Narita depart once every hour or two, require 90-120 minutes depending on traffic, and the one-way fare is ¥3000. Buses for Haneda run in the morning and evening, require 50-90 minutes, and the one-way fare is ¥1200.

See

• Ghibli Museum (ジブリ美術館) 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi (10 minutes walk south of Kichijōji station; adjacent to Inokashira Park). 0570-055777. 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, closed Tue. This museum showcases the work of animated movie director Hayao Miyazaki, but you don't have to be an anime fan to enjoy it. Playful artwork, clever animation displays and Rube Goldberg machines recreate the atmosphere of Miyazaki's movies such as Spirited Away and Howl's Moving Castle. A themed playroom and low displays make the museum well suited for children. Entry to the museum requires reserved tickets, which are available only at Lawson convenience stores or through overseas travel agencies . Admission ¥1000 age 19+/¥700 age 13-18/¥400 age 7-12/¥100 age 4-6.

• Inokashira Park (井の頭公園 Inokashira-kōen) is a large park where extensive walking paths surround a lake, making a pleasant escape from the city. On the weekends, vendors gather along the paths to sell handmade crafts under the trees. Inokashira Park is an excellent choice to go to see both cherry blossoms and fall colors. Rental boats are available to paddle around the lake, but be careful who you go with—this is reputed to be the way to tell your lover you want to break up. The park is south of the station, and quite large so it is hard to miss. But a reasonable approach is to exit the south side of the station, continue south to Marui department store, and walk down the street on its right (west) side. This street is a stretch of boutique shops and reasonably-priced restaurants, and leads into the park.

Buy

Stores in Kichijoji range from galleries and boutiques that are an outgrowth of the area's artist colony past, to the department stores Mitsukoshi, Maru and Isetan. Foreign chains such as Tower Records, Oshman's sporting goods and Lush have set up shop here as well. Sunroad is a long, covered shopping arcade on the north side of the station. Wind through narrow alleys of goods shops and yakitori restaurants in Harmonica Yokochō, also on the north side. Nakamichi Street, northwest of the station, has boutique stores and mid-range restaurants.

• Yuzawaya is a handicraft shop adjacent to the station. There are three floors of toys; the dedicated shopper may find interesting souvenirs on the fabric floor.

• Onao (fourth floor of Loft), 0422-23-2673. (in Japanese) Onao has a nice selection of traditional Japanese paper and related souvenirs.

Eat

• Matsuzaka-gyū Satō (松坂牛サトウ) is famous for its deep-fried mincemeat cutlets (menchi katsu) which you can get as take-out, and there's usually a long line of customers spilling out into the shopping arcade. The shop is three minutes from the north exit.
• Iseya (いせや), Gotenyama 1-2-1 (3 min. from south exit along Koen-dori), 0422-47-1008. Housed in a marvelous old wooden building, this large yakitori (grilled chicken) tavern seems straight out of a 1950's black-and-white movie, full of raucous salarymen drowning their troubles in tall glasses of beer. There is another branch on the shopping street leading to Inokashira Park.
• Monk's Foods, Gotenyama 1-2-4 (4 min. from south exit along Koen-dori), 0422-48-3977, closed Wednesdays . Buddhist ascetics and quirky jazz pianists alike will feel at home at this cozy "slow food" restaurant. The fare is organically-grown, mostly vegetarian/vegan home-style Japanese. When you sit down, the owner will almost certainly ask if you can read the Japanese-only menu, if you look like you can't. If that's the case, just pick one of the three daily specials — vegetarian, fish, or chicken. Chances are you'll get something you like, along with some other exotic healthy vegetable that you won't like.
• Bubuka (ぶぶか) 1-2-3 Minami-Kichijoji (turn left coming out of the station's south exit) 0422-41-8180. Open everyday 11:30 to midnight. The abura soba served at this ramen restaurant is a welcome break from the usual salty and soupy ramen. Actually ramen not soba, abura soba (¥550) is served with no soup, but does include the usual green onion, slice of pork, etc. An interesting addition is raw egg (nama tamago), ¥50. Look for the store with the line in front - it is a popular place.
• Ichi-en 2-17-2 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-22-5919. If you are in the mood for some gyoza with your ramen, try Ichi-en on Nakamichi Street, on the northwest side of the station. The interior is what you'd expect from a traditional ramen shop. Be sure to try the huge gyoza, at ¥400, they are a cheap meal unto themselves.
• Inokashira Tsuyube Hanare 1-3-1 Kichijoji Gotenyama, 0422-47-9465. To get into this izakaya located just outside of Inokashira Park, you'll have to duck to get through the low-clearance door reminiscent of traditional tea houses. Be sure to order the mackerel (saba), which will be brought to your table and cooked by the chef on the spot, using a handheld blowtorch (¥730). During peak times, reservations may be required.
• Mo-Mo-Paradise 1-9-10 Kichijoji Honcho (in the Sunroad arcade) 0422-20-1129. All-you-can-eat shabu-shabu is paradise for people, particularly at ¥1700. Although there is no English menu, you'll only need to choose between shabu-shabu and sukiyaki.
• Mo-Para Nabe Zo 2-13-6 Kichijoji Honcho, Q&K Bldg. 3F. Another all-you-can-eat shabu-shabu restaurant run by the same people as Mo-Mo Paradise. For the uninitiated, ask to be seated next to one of the glass partitions which describes how to cook in grammatically correct English. Refill on vegetables at a salad bar. Opened in 2006. ¥1890.
• Hun Lahun , Oriental Bldg. 2f, 2-2-3 Minamicho, 0422-48-7796. Multi-ethnic natural food and drinks; also DJ events and live music.
• Shimanchu Shokudo Niraikanai 1-23-7 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-22-4877. Okinawa-themed restaurant and bar. Head downstairs for the Hawaiian-themed bar Jingle-Jangle.
• Capricciosa (down a small street at the back of Tokyu department store) An Italian-style restaurant in Kichijoji. Reasonably priced.

Drink

Cafes

• Donatello's 1-15-8 Minami Kichijoji (on the street right of Marui dept. store, next to the park). 0422-44-8078. 10:30 AM-10:30 PM, from 10 AM on Sun. The large windows in this cafe look out into Inokashira Park, Donatello's a good place to stop after a stroll. You may find the cafe cats sunning themselves next to the windows.

These cafes all follow a successful formula, trendy decor with a decent selection of coffees, light meals and desserts:

• Medewo & Dine 2-13-6 Kichijoji Honcho (north of Showa dori, across from Nike store). 0422-23-8208. Open 11:30 AM to 11:30 PM. Check out the seats and service carts lifted from a Delta Air airplane. Get the espresso and brownie for ¥400.

• St. George Cafe 2-13-7 Kichijoji Honcho. 0422-23-3123. 11 AM-10 PM. Background music from the 80s. Drink and dessert set, ¥870.

• Cafe Fifty-fifty 50/50 1-8-5 Kichijoji Honcho, Orient Bldg, (in Japanese). 11:30 AM-12 AM. A good selection of hamburgers.

• Sough Cafe 1-17-10 Kichijoji Minamicho, F&W Bldg. 2F (enroute to Inokashira Park from the train station), 0422-46-2718. A bright and airy cafe, dog-friendly. Some tables have game consoles to play games or watch a movie.

• ...ful Cafe 2-17-12 Kichijoji Honcho, B1F (along Nakamichi Street), 0422-28-7039, (in Japanese). 11:30 AM-10 PM (until 9PM on Sun.), closed Weds.

Bars

• Holic Keyaki Bldg. B1, 1-1-8 Kichijoji Minamicho (from the station's south exit, turn right), 0422-49-6638. Opened in 2005, this bar features a good selection of imported bottled beers and a couple of Japanese microbrews on tap. The food is better than average, but also a little pricey.

• The Shamrock Kichijoji Sunnycity Kichijoji Bldg. B1F 1-18-3 Kichijoji Honcho (north of the station, near Mitsukoshi), 0422-23-4669. Open late. This is an Irish pub that follows a formula that is familiar in Tokyo, with lots of dark wood and classic-looking Guinness advertising. There is no table charge, and a pint of pay-on-delivery draft beer is ¥950; pub grub is served as well.

• Jingle-Jangle, B1, 1-23-7 Kichijoji Honcho, 0422-21-8444. Fun-filled Hawaiian-themed bar located under Shimanchu Shokudo Niraikanai.

• Hub 1-2-7 Kichijoji Honcho, Kichijoji Arufa Bldg. B1, 0422-20-6540 (off of Sun Road). The Hub is an English-style pub with locations throughout Japan.

• Hub 1-5-7 Kichijoji Minamicho, Yuki Bldg. B1 (0422-46-3546). This second Kichijoji location of the Hub is at the station's south exit.

Sleep

• Kichijoji Tokyu Inn 1-6-3 Kichijoji Minamicho. 0422-47-0109, fax 0422-43-1811. ¥12,500/22,500 for single/double.