From Wikitravel

Ann Arbor [1] — often abbreviated as AA or A² — is in southeast Michigan, 35 miles north of the Ohio border and 45 miles west of Detroit, near where the furthest exurban fringes give way to country and small towns. Founded in 1824, it was originally named "Annarbour" after the two founders' wives (Ann Allen and Mary Ann Rumsey) and an arbor of burr oak trees on the village site (although some have theorized that the name arose from an arbor of roses or grapes). Today the city has a population of 114,024 people (as of 2000), not including the transient college students, or the thousands of visitors who come to town for football games and various festivals.

Ann Arbor is very much a college town, with the University of Michigan being the major employer, but it also has a strong bent toward the arts, and an attractive and pedestrian-friendly downtown. A cynical visitor might find Ann Arbor to be overpriced and pretentious, particularly during the Art Fair season, but if you like sidewalk cafe dining, unique shops, lots of bookstores and abundant cultural opportunities, you'll probably find Ann Arbor to be worth a stop.

Contents 1 Understand 2 Get in 2.1 By car 2.2 By plane 2.3 By train 2.4 By bus 3 Get around 4 See 4.1 Parks and Gardens 4.2 Museums 5 Do 5.1 Events 6 Learn 7 Work 8 Buy 8.1 Bookstores 8.2 Music 8.3 Art and Gifts 8.4 Other 8.5 Shopping Centers 9 Eat 9.1 Local Favorites 9.2 American and Steakhouses 9.3 Asian 9.3.1 Chinese 9.3.2 Japanese 9.3.3 Korean 9.3.4 Thai 9.3.5 Vietnamese 9.3.6 Indian 9.4 Middle Eastern 9.5 Other International 9.6 Cafés 9.7 Pizza 10 Drink 10.1 Pubs 10.2 Bars and Nightclubs 11 Sleep 11.1 Campus Area 11.1.1 Hotels 11.1.2 Bed and Breakfasts 11.2 South Side 11.3 Southeast Side 11.4 Northeast Side 11.5 Northwest Side 12 Contact 12.1 Internet access 12.2 Listen 13 Stay safe 14 Get out

Understand

Ann Arbor is centered around the University of Michigan. The U-M campus intermingles with downtown, and the whole area is walkable, though day buses run between the campuses and the central business district.

Farther out, the city fades into subdivisions (a mall and business parks in the south), then countryside dotted with towns, and, to the east, Detroit suburbs. Buses here are sparse or nonexistent; you'll want a car unless you have several hours to spare. On some autumn Saturdays, transport is difficult as 100,000-odd people pour in for university football games.

Tree town is, as one might expect, full of trees; they line the streets, and from the air, in summer, all that can be seen is a green swath with a few buildings sticking out. (In the early 20th century, after having leveled the forest that once occupied the area, the city instituted an aggressive tree-planting program that's since borne fruit.)

Perhaps surprisingly for being so far north, summers often tend toward the hot and humid, with temperatures occasionally hitting 90 degrees. Winters, on the other hand, are brutal. The chill starts to set in around October or November, and it usually doesn't warm up until late April to May, meaning that half the year feels like winter. Average temperatures are generally in the range of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit, but particularly around January they can dip bitterly below 0, and that's without the considerable wind chill factor. Bring fur — fake fur. This is a college town.

Thanks to the college students (average parental income $170,000 per year) and yuppies, downtown is a solid block of restaurants and art galleries. The university hosts cultural events, and theaters like the Michigan host first-run independent films and high-profile music groups. The original Borders bookstore is also here, as are several good independent bookshops, and the Ann Arbor Art Fair draws a million visitors each summer.

Get in

By car

• Your best bet is to drive your way in. Ann Arbor is bounded by I-94 (between Detroit and Jackson) on the south and west, US-23 (between Flint and Toledo, Ohio) on the east, and M-14 (which leads to Detroit) on the north. From Toledo and points south, take US-23 north; from Detroit, the airport, and points east, take I-94 west (or I-96 west to M-14 west); from Chicago and points west, take I-94 east; from the north, take US-23 south. There is ample parking downtown, but very little is on the curb (most is in parking garages).

By plane

• The nearest major airport is Detroit Metropolitan Wayne County Airport (DTW), about 40 minutes away, from which it will probably be necessary to rent a car or have a friend pick you up. A taxi will cost you in the neighborhood of $45 one-way; alternatively, several shuttle services offer pre-booked trips for around $25, with the cost per person decreasing as the size of the group increases. There are quite a lot of airport shuttle services, but the following will give you a place to start:

• Ann Arbor Airport Shuttle, 734-394-1665, [2]. Reservations should be made at least one day in advance. 1 passenger is $25 one-way, $55 round-trip.

• Ann Arbor - Detroit Metro Airport Shuttle, 734-507-9220, [3]. 1 passenger is $30 one-way, $55 round-trip.

• Custom Transit, 734-971-5555, [4]. 1 passenger is $26 one-way, $47 round-trip.

• SelectRide, 734-663-8898 or 866-663-8898, [5]. Reservations should be made at least two days in advance. $24 per person one-way.

• Ann Arbor Airport, intersection of State and Ellsworth, 734-994-2841, [6]. A small 24-hour airport that handles business, corporate, public and private flights, air ambulance service, flight instruction and charter services.

By train

• Amtrak, 325 Depot, 734-994-4906 or 800-872-7245, [7]. Open daily from 7 am to 12 am; ticketing is available from 7:15 am until 11:30 pm. The station is located within walking distance of downtown, just beyond the Kerrytown district. The Ann Arbor stop is situated on the Wolverine line, which travels between Pontiac (north of Detroit) and Chicago. There are three westbound and three eastbound departures daily. Detroit is about 1 hour away by train, and costs $10 - 15 one-way. The train is about 5 hours from Chicago, and usually costs between $25 and $50 one-way.

By bus

• Greyhound, 116 W Huron, 734-662-5511, [8]. Open 9 am to 6 pm Monday through Friday, and 9 am to 4:30 pm Saturday and Sunday. The bus station is located downtown, near Main Street. Detroit is a little over 1 hour away via bus; a one-way ticket costs $7 - $8, round-trip is $13 - $15. Chicago is 5 to 6.5 hours away; a one-way ticket is $34 - $37, round-trip is $65 - $70.

Get around

Downtown Ann Arbor is not large, so it's easy to get around just by walking. In fact, free parking is almost nonexistent, especially when the town is full of students, so you'll probably prefer to walk anyway. Occasionally you'll find an unused parking meter; you'll have to feed it money between 8 am and 6 pm on weekdays, otherwise they're free. There are parking lots and buildings scattered around downtown; they're free on Sundays, otherwise you can generally expect to pay around 80 cents to $1 per hour.

• Ann Arbor Transportation Authority (AATA), 331 S Fourth, 734-973-6500 or 734-996-0400, [9]. Provides bus service in and around Ann Arbor and downtown Ypsilanti. During the school year, the city also operates an express service called the Link, a fleet of purple buses that only travels between Central Campus, the downtown area and Kerrytown. Buses run between 6:30 am and 11:30 pm on weekdays, and 8 am to 7 pm on weekends, depending on the route. Adult fares for regular AATA routes are $1 each way (free for UM faculty, staff and students), and the Link is free to ride.

• Ann Arbor has several reliable 24-hour taxicab companies. Note that you can't hail a cab from the sidewalk, although there are certain spots in town where they often hang out waiting for passengers, notably in front of the Michigan Union on State Street.

• Amazing Blue Taxi, 734-846-0007, [10]. Also offers flat rates to destinations around Michigan and nearby major cities.

• Ann Arbor Yellow Cab Company, 2050 Commerce Drive, 734-663-3355.

• Blue Cab Company, 734-547-2222.

See

• Ann Arbor has a number of public sculptures that can be viewed both on campus and downtown. Of these, several are particularly well-known. The Cube (Regents Plaza north of the Michigan Union, at Maynard and E Jefferson, [11]) by Tony Rosenthal is a 15-foot-tall, 2400-lb glossy black cube that spins on its axis when pushed, which is a tradition among UM students; there's an identical one in the East Village of New York City. The Wave Field (courtyard outside the Francois-Xavier Bagnoud building, on Hayward Avenue, [12]) by Maya Lin is an earth sculpture, 90 feet by 90 feet square, consisting of a series of fifty grass waves in eight rows. In the downtown area, various boring fixtures like fire hydrants and transformers have been painted in bright colors by local artists and schoolchildren.

• The alley mural on E Liberty, between the Liberty Square parking structure and Wizzywig, started out as a one-man mural in the 1980s and became a popular spot for graffiti artists. The city took the spot over in 1999 by hiring artist Katherine Tombeau Cost to paint over the original mural and graffiti with a new 5,000-square-foot mural. The graffiti artists haven't entirely relinquished their claim to it, meaning that Cost's mural has been partially defaced with large bubble lettering, but it's still an interesting (and out-of-the-way) sight. Be sure to seek out the "trippers'" bubble gum wall toward the back. During warmer weather, you'll often find musicians or dancers putting on solo performances in the alley entrance, hoping to glean donations. (And if you're into murals, you can't miss the one at the corner of E Liberty and S State, painted in 1984 when the corner location was still occupied by David's Books. In case you can't figure it out, the five authorial visages are Woody Allen, Edgar Allen Poe, Herman Hesse, Franz Kafka and Anaïs Nin.)

• Michigan Theater, 603 E Liberty, 734-668-8397 or 734-668-TIME, [13]. A restored 1928 cinema, complete with two organs, one of them a vintage 1927 pipe organ. The theater shows mainly independent and foreign films, with special classic-film showings throughout the year. The organ is often played before performances, and during the Michigan Theater's special silent-film showings. The main auditorium also hosts other events throughout the year, particular musical groups and comedy shows, many fairly well-known.

• State Theater, 233 S State, 734-761-8667, [14]. An art-deco cinema from 1942, the State Theater works in conjunction with the Michigan Theater, and often plays films that have stopped showing at the Michigan.

• The Ark, 316 S Main, 734-761-1451, [15]. A nonprofit, intimate music club with 400 seats, which usually hosts folk/rock performers.

• University of Michigan Stadium, 1201 S Main, [16]. Nicknamed the "Big House", the UM stadium is the largest American football stadium in the world, with a seating capacity of 107,501. Home games are played in autumn on the well-known "Football Saturdays", when thousands of visitors clog the Ann Arbor streets to watch the Wolverines (or their opponents) play.

• Domino's Farms, US-23 and Plymouth Road, 734-930-4425, [17]. A large office park in a pastoral location, home to the world headquarters of Domino's Pizza. Visitors will go mostly for one of two attractions:

• Ave Maria Fine Art Gallery, 24 Frank Lloyd Wright Drive, 734-930-2514, [18]. Open 9 am to 6 pm Tuesday through Friday, and 10 am to 2 pm on Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday. The largest art gallery in Michigan, specializing in eary 20th century and Old World art.

• Domino's Petting Farm, 24 Frank Lloyd Wright Drive, 734-998-0182, [19]. Open 9:30 am to 4 pm Monday through Friday, and 10:30 am to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday. 15 acres of land with farm animals from around the world, including rare and near-extinct species, like the French Poitou donkey (only 200 reportedly in existence), African watusi cow, Horned Dorset ram, and Tibetan yak. The barn was once part of a working 1925-era farm, but was opened as a petting zoo in 1984. Tours, hay rides and educational presentations available. Admission $4.50 (children and seniors) or $5 (adults).

Parks and Gardens

Ann Arbor has 147 city parks, ranging from less than a block wide to over 100 acres. Some of the more prominent ones include:

• Nichols Arboretum aka "The Arb", 1610 Washington Heights, 734-647-7600, [20]. 123 acres of hilly woodland along the Huron River, with collections of North American plants interspersed throughout. Peony garden, prairie, constructed wetland and Appalachian plant collection.

• Shakespeare in the Arb, 1610 Washington Heights, 734-647-7600, [21]. Annual outdoor Shakespearean production since 2001, held on weekends in June. Roving performance requires the actors and audience to shift locations throughout the Arb from scene to scene. Previous productions have included A Midsummer Night's Dream, Much Ado About Nothing, As You Like It and Love's Labours Lost. Shows begin at 6:30 pm. Admission $15.

• Matthei Botanical Gardens, 1800 N Dixboro, 734-647-7600, [22]. The grounds are open daily from 8 am until dusk. Conservatory and gift shop open from 10 am to 4:30 pm Tuesday and Thursday through Sunday, and 10 am to 8 pm on Wednesday; closed Mondays. A 300-acre site with outdoor display gardens, a 10,000-square-foot conservatory filled with tropical plants, and miles of nature trails. Admission to the grounds is free; admission to the conservatory is $5 but free on Fridays between 12 pm and 4:30 pm.

• Gallup Park, 3000 Fuller, 734-662-9319, [23]. A 69-acre park along the Huron River and Geddes Pond, and Ann Arbor's most popular recreation area. Walkways with pedestrian bridges over the water, two playgrounds, picnic areas, open fields, over 3 miles of asphalt trails. Canoe, kayak and paddleboat rental (canoes can also be taken from the Argo Park livery, 1055 Longshore Drive, 734-668-7411, to the Gallup livery).

• Buhr Park, 2751 Packard, 734-971-3228, [24]. A 39-acre park with picnic areas, children's play area, softball diamond, soccer fields, outdoor tennis courts, 25-yard swimming pool, children's wading pool, outdoor ice arena for public skating and ice hockey, cross-country ski center, and snowmobile trails. Ski and skate rentals available.

Museums

The University of Michigan is renowned for its museums and research collections. Several of them - including the Herbarium, and the Museums of Anthropology, Paleontology and Zoology - are primarily research-oriented, and as such don't really have permanent exhibits on display, although you may be able to contact the curators if you wish to have a look at the collection. There are also several museums with displays for you to browse:

• Ann Arbor Hands-On Museum, 220 E Ann, 734-995-5439, [25]. Nine galleries with more than 250 interactive science demos and exhibits, on topics from physics to health to nature to mathematics. Kids will like it a lot; adults will be fairly entertained. Admission $7.00, donations gratefully accepted.

• Artrain USA, 1100 N Main, 800-ART-1971, [26]. A traveling art museum, housed in vintage rail cars, that tours the nation but is based in Ann Arbor. Each exhibition tours the country for three to four years, offering creative partnerships with local artists at each stop along the tour. Check the website to see if the Artrain will be in town during your visit.

• Cobblestone Farm Museum, 2781 Packard, 734-994-2928 or 734-973-7267. Tours offered 10 am to 1 pm on the last Saturday of the month, beginning in May. An 1845 two-family home, now restored and interpreted to give a view of past rural life in Washtenaw County. Admission $2.

• Kelsey Museum of Archaeology, 434 S State, 734-764-9304, [27]. Open 9 am to 4 pm Tuesday through Friday, and 1 pm to 4 pm Saturday and Sunday; closed Mondays. Galleries featuring nearly 100,000 artefacts from Greek, Roman, Egyptian and Near Eastern civilizations. Admission free, donations gratefully accepted.

• Kempf House, 312 S Division, 734-994-4898, [28]. Tours offered 1 to 4 pm on Sundays, September through December and March through June, or by appointment. A restored Greek Revival house museum from 1853; once home to Reuben and Pauline Kempf, prominent Ann Arbor musicians, now offering guided tours and a glimpse into Victorian life in Ann Arbor. Admission $1.

• Museum of Art, 525 S State, 734-764-0395 or 734-763-UMMA, [29]. Temporarily located at 1301 South University through mid-2008, while the main museum building is under construction for expansion and restoration. Open 10 am to 5 pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday; 10 am to 9 pm on Thursday; and 12 pm to 5 pm on Sunday; closed Mondays. Collections of African, American, Asian, European, and Middle Eastern art; modern and contemporary artwork; prints, drawings and photographs; and frequent rotating collections. Gift shop on-site. Admission free, $5 donation suggested.

• U of M School of Art and Design, 2000 Bonisteel, 734-764-0397, [30]. Open 9 am to 5 pm Monday through Friday. Exhibitions by art students and faculty in two galleries on North Campus: the Warren Robbins Graduate Center and the Slusser Gallery. Also check out their small downtown gallery, Work, at 306 S State, 734-998-6178. Open 12 pm to 7 pm Tuesday through Thursday, 12 pm to 8 pm Friday and Saturday, and 12 pm to 5 pm on Sunday; closed Mondays. Admission free.

• Sindecuse Museum of Dentistry, 1011 N University (School of Dentistry, room G532), [31]. Open 8 am to 6 pm Monday through Friday; closed weekends and most major holidays. Over 10,000 artifacts focused on the history of dentistry, with particular interest in dental practice and technology in the United States and Michigan dating from the 18th century to today. Admission free.

• Stearns Collection of Musical Instruments, 1100 Baits, 734-764-0583, [32]. Open 10 am to 5 pm Monday through Friday; closed weekends. Housed in the School of Music, the Stearns Collection holds over 2500 pieces of historical and contemporary musical instruments from all over the world. Admission free.

• Exhibit Museum of Natural History, 1109 Geddes, 734-764-0478, [33]. Open 9 am to 5 pm Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 5 pm on Sunday. Exhibits on natural sciences and anthropology, including prehistoric life, Michigan wildlife, Native American and other cultures, and rock and mineral specimens. Admission free, donations gratefully accepted.

Do

• Take a walk through downtown Ann Arbor. Most of the shops and restaurants line State [34], Liberty and Main [35] streets, with the quality becoming more upscale as you approach Main. The other popular student hangouts are along South University [36] street. A few blocks north of downtown is the historic Kerrytown district [37], full of remodeled old homes and pleasant shopping.

• Pinball Pete's, 1214 S University, 734-213-2502. Large video arcade featuring pinball machines, air hockey, pool tables, shot clock basketball and football, ticketed games, Dance Dance Revolution, and classic arcade games from the 1980s as well as popular new fighting games.

• Makielski Berry Farm, 7130 Platt, 734-572-0060. Open 8 am to 8 pm daily in season. From August to October, pick your own insecticide-free red, yellow or amber raspberries at very reasonable prices. The owners also sell raspberry honey. Children are welcome, but be careful if you bring your pets; the dogs on the premises have been known to suddenly attack small animals.

• Planet Rock, 82 Aprill Drive, 734-827-2680, [38]. Open 3 to 10 pm Monday through Wednesday and Friday, 3 to 11 pm on Thursday, 11 am to 8 pm on Saturday, and 10 am to 6 pm on Sunday. Over 22,000 square feet of climbing terrain, with 50-foot walls, a motorized climbing wall, three bouldering areas and adventure racing including rappelling. Day passes $15, climbing lessons $39 - $50.

Events

• Ann Arbor Film Festival, 203 E Ann, 734-995-5356, [39]. Held during six days in late March at the Michigan Theater (603 E Liberty). The oldest festival of its kind in North America, showcasing over 100 independent and experimental films and videos annually, since 1963. Over 20 prizes are awarded to the best films. Passes are available for single screenings, single days, weekends or the entire week.

• Hash Bash, University of Michigan Diag near State Street and N University Street, [40]. Held the first Saturday in April. The Hash Bash began when poet John Sinclair was jailed for marijuana possession, leading John Lennon and Yoko Ono to headline a protest rally in Ann Arbor in 1971. Beginning in 1972, it became an annual event to commemorate the occasion and support the reform of marijuana laws. The Hash Bash is a gathering point for thousands of cannabis aficionados from all around, with guest speakers in the Diag attracting large crowds. Given the nature of the event, you probably will see people smoking marijuana; those who do light up tend to take advantage of the difference in fines between the town ($50) and the university ($100 and possible jail time), which basically means that your punishment depends on which side of State Street you stand on. Vendors sell everything from hemp bracelets to "glass art" (actually pipes and bongs, but who's quibbling?), bongo drums are played, and people-watching can an interesting way to pass the time all by itself.

• Naked Mile, University of Michigan campus. Held in mid-April at midnight on the last day of classes. A tradition at the University of Michigan since 1986, in which hundreds of students - traditionally graduating seniors, although in practice there's a broader spread - run across campus naked, while spectators cheer them on, to celebrate the end of the school year. Although technically illegal, it was tolerated by local police until 1998, when they began attempting to strongly discourage continuation of the Naked Mile, fuelled in part by concerns over outsiders videotaping the event and selling the recordings online. In recent years, to avoid being arrested, students have run the Mile in body paint, underwear, or a day earlier than usual.

• Ann Arbor Book Festival, 311 - 315 S State, 734-369-3366, [41]. Held in mid-May. First organized in 2004 to promote reading, heighten awareness of literacy challenges, and showcase the rich culture of the written word in Michigan and beyond. The festival features a bookstore crawl, antiquarian book fair, author readings, symposiums and panels on literacy and writing, tours of the UM library conservation and preservation lab, and a street festival.

• Taste of Ann Arbor, Main Street. Held the first Sunday in June, from 11 am to 5 pm. Kiosks along Main Street offer people the chance to sample menu items from over 35 local restaurants. Also includes three stages of live music, dancing and more. Admission is free, although you'll want to purchase tickets to trade for the yummy goodies.

• Ann Arbor Summer Festival, 400 Fourth Street #150, 734-647-2278, [42]. Held from mid-June to mid-July. An annual event since 1983 with different nightly indoor cultural performances: singers, musical bands, dancers, comedians, plays, and other acts including acrobats and animal handlers.

• Top of the Park, Ingalls Mall, [43]. Held from mid-June to early July. Nightly local and regional live bands, outdoor film screenings at 10 pm, and concession booths from eight local eateries. Traditionally this event was held on the upper level of the Fletcher parking structure, next to the Power Center - hence the name - but it has been temporarily moved outside the Rackham School of Graduate Studies. In inclement weather, performances and films may be cancelled. Admission free.

• Ann Arbor Art Fairs, 734-994-5260 or 800-888-9487, [44]. Held throughout downtown during one Wednesday through Saturday in late July. Booths open 10 am to 9 pm Wednesday through Friday, and 10 am to 6 pm on Saturday. Four juried art fairs that display and sell art: the original Ann Arbor Street Art Fair [45] along N University; the Ann Arbor Summer Art Fair [46] along Main, Liberty, William and State; the State Street Area Art Fair [47]; and the South University Art Fair [48]. In practical terms, it's all one great big fair that takes about a full day to explore if you move quickly and don't look at every booth. Prices are generally rather high, as befitting an art show of this calibre, but there are definitely bargains to be found, as well as some less expensive non-juried booths that tag along for the ride. Loads of concessions, live entertainment, and booths with great sales from local businesses are scattered throughout. During the Art Fair, hotels are generally booked up and parking can be difficult to find, so book a room early (by February or March) and find a spot at one of the park-and-ride stops to catch a bus into downtown.

Learn

• Ann Arbor Convention and Visitors Bureau, 120 W Huron Street, 734-995-7281 or 800-888-9487, [49].

• If you want to know what's going on in town, the best guide to the entertainment scene in Washtenaw County is the Current, 212 E Huron, 734-668-4044, [50]. There's information on music, films, dance and theatre events, poetry and novel readings, lectures, art exhibits, festivals and more, as well as restaurant reviews, general information about the town, and so much more. If you're interested in the Ann Arbor arts scene, this should be one of the first things you pick up; one easy spot to find copies is outside the Michigan Theatre on E Liberty.

• The local newspaper is the Ann Arbor News, 340 E Huron, 734-994-6989, [51].

• The student newspaper is the Michigan Daily, 734-763-2459, [52].

• University of Michigan, 734-764-1817, [53]. A highly-ranked research university with a strong athletics tradition, the University of Michigan has been located in Ann Arbor since 1837 and is deeply intertwined with the town, being one of the major employers in the area. It offers both undergraduate and graduate programs in social sciences, sciences, humanities and arts, engineering, law, business and medicine. The average student population is around 40,000, with about 5,000 faculty members. There are three campuses - North, Central, and South - with downtown Ann Arbor being adjacent to, and somewhat intermingled with, Central Campus.

Work

The University of Michigan and the infrastructure and support services for it are major employers in Ann Arbor, though an announced 1000-job campus to house technology neogiant Google's advertising services promises to become a noteworthy player in the local job market.

• Pfizer Global Research and Development, 2800 Plymouth Road, 734-622-7000, [54]. Employs over 2,700 people in multiple joint initiatives with the University of Michigan. The research and development functions carried out in Ann Arbor include discovery, drug metabolism, pharmaceutical sciences, drug safety evaluation, development, and therapeutic research.

Buy

Bookstores

It's been said that Ann Arbor has the most bookstores per capita than any other town in the US. Certainly a walking tour of downtown will take you past quite a few, although the number is beginning to slowly dwindle.

• Borders No. 001, 612 E Liberty, 734-668-7652, [55]. Open 9 am to 11 pm Monday through Saturday, and 9 am to 9 pm on Sunday. The original Borders bookstore (under underwhelming new management, but still a huge selection).

• Aunt Agatha's, 213 S Fourth, 734-769-1114, [56]. Open 11 am to 7 pm Monday through Thursday, 11 am to 8 pm Friday and Saturday, and 12 pm to 5 pm on Sunday. Specializing in new and used mystery, detection and true crime books.

• Common Language, 317 Braun Court, 734-663-0036, [57]. Open 11 am to 10 pm Monday through Thursday, 11 am to midnight Friday and Saturday, and 11 am to 7 pm on Sunday. The only gay-owned and -operated bookstore in Ann Arbor, specializing in gay, lesbian, and feminist works, with books, magazines, gifts and cards.

• Crazy Wisdom Bookstore & Tea Room, 114 S Main, 734-665-2757, [58]. Specializing in spirituality, psychology and integrative medicine. Also carries gifts, cards, jewellery, crafts, art, music, incense, ritual items, candles, aromatherapy, body tools and yoga supplies.

• David's Books, 516-B E William, 734-665-8017, [59]. In business for over 25 years, David's buys and sells used, rare and out of print books. They also have an online store, if you want to do some virtual shopping.

• The Dawn Treader, 514 E Liberty, 734-995-1008, [60]. Open 11 am to 8 pm Monday through Thursday, 11 am to 9 pm Friday and Saturday, and 12 pm to 5 pm on Sunday. One of many good used bookstores downtown.

• Kaleidoscope Books and Collectibles, 217 S State, 734-995-9887. Packed full of used books, including some really amusing pulp fiction titles, as well as an entire room full of collectibles and memorabilia, including movie posters, action figures, classic toys and more.

• Shaman Drum, 311 - 315 S State, 734-662-7407, [61]. An academic, scholarly, literary, and independent bookstore for over 20 years, with a highly knowledgeable staff.

• West Side Book Shop, 113 W Liberty, 734-995-1891. Used and rare books, maps and photographs.

Music

• Encore Records, 417 E Liberty, 734-662-6776. One of the best used record stores in the country. Encyclopedic staff.

• Schoolkids Records in Exile, 332 S State (inside and downstairs at Bivouac), 734-663-7248, [62]. Open 10 am to 9 pm Monday through Friday, 10 am to 6 pm on Saturday, and 12 pm to 5 pm on Sunday. A small store crammed full of records and CDs with very competitive prices, and they can mail-order practically anything that's in print.

Art and Gifts

• 16 Hands, 216 S Main, 734-761-1110, [63]. Open 10 am to 6 pm Monday through Thursday, 10 am to 9 pm Friday and Saturday, and 12 pm to 5 pm on Sunday. Offers fine furniture, lighting, jewellery, wearables, housewares and gifts by artists throughout the United States.

• Dixboro General Store, 5206 Plymouth, 734-663-5558, [64]. Open 10 am to 6 pm Monday through Saturday, 10 am to 8 pm on Friday, and 11 am to 5 pm on Sunday. One of the busiest country gift and furnishing stores in Michigan, located in a historic store in the village of Dixboro. Furniture, candles, collectables, garden decor, tabletops, bath and body supplies, home accessories, lighting and edible goodies.

• Four Directions, 329 S Main, 734-996-9250, [65]. A great gift store offering jewellery, crystals, minerals, fossils and gifts from around the world. Their jewellery is very pretty and generally at quite reasonable prices. If you want something local to the area, you can find samples of Michigan greenstone aka chlorastrolite (the state gem, from Isle Royale, which is fairly pricey), Petoskey stone (the state stone, usually found loose rather than in jewellery) and native Michigan copper (as bookends or free-flowing verdigris-encrusted sculptures).

• John Leidy, 601 E Liberty, 734-668-6779, [66]. Open 9:30 am to 5:30 pm Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 5 pm on Sunday. Fine gifts including china, stemware, flatware, ceramics, metalware, woodware, giftware, collectibles, jewellery, clothing and textiles.

• Middle Earth, 1209 S University, 734-769-1488. Wacky and kitschy gifts, home decor, handcrafted contemporary and fashion jewelry, fashion accessories, T-shirts, books, candy, toys, and much more. It's a must-see if you're looking for something out of the ordinary.

• Motawi Tileworks, 170 Enterprise Drive, 734-213-0017, [67]. Open 10 am to 5 pm Monday through Friday, and 10 am to 3 am on Saturday. Low-relief and polychrome tiles, using locally-produced clay and glazes, which can be purchased as individual art pieces or for installation. Guided tours available (free at 11 am every Thursday, or $5 per person for tours of 4 or more people by appointment).

• Occasionally, 223 S Main, 734-769-5151. The best place in town for local and Michigan gifts, including T-shirts, food, Michigan lighthouses and gift baskets.

• Selo/Shevel Gallery, 310 S Main, 734-761-4620; 335 S Main, 734-761-6263; [68]. Open 10 am to 7 pm Monday through Thursday, 10 am to 10 pm Friday and Saturday, and 12 pm to 5 pm on Sunday. The gallery at 310 S Main specializes in ceramics, woodcraft, mixed media, folk art, textiles and Judaica; the gallery at 335 S Main specializes in glass art and jewellery.

• Ten Thousand Villages, 303 S Main, 734-332-1270, [69]. Open 12 pm to 5 pm Sunday and Monday, 11 am to 7 pm Tuesday through Thursday, and 11 am to 9 pm Friday and Saturday. A non-profit retail store staffed by volunteers, featuring fairly-traded handicrafts from around the world.

Other

• Acme Mercantile, 111 W Liberty, 734-213-3722, [70]. Open 10 am to 8 pm Monday through Thursday, 10 am to 9 pm Friday and Saturday, and 12 pm to 7 pm on Sunday. A general store offering books, hardware, office supplies, health and beauty supplies, pet supplies, stationery, toys and sundries. While this may sound boring, Acme Mercantile certainly isn't. The whole store is decorated in a very kitschy retro style, and many of their products fit this description too. You'll almost certainly find something here that you never realized you desperately needed.

• Downtown Home and Garden, 210 S Ashley, 734-662-8122. Open 7:30 am to 7 pm Monday through Saturday, and 11 am to 4 pm on Sunday. Gardening, greenhouse, cookware and housewares in a historic livery stable.

• Morgan and York, Fine Wines and Specialty Foods, 1928 Packard, 734-662-0798, [71]. Open 9 am to 9 pm Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 6 pm on Sunday. Known as the Big Ten Party Store until 2005; the name change better reflects the quality of the merchandise. Long popular with locals of discriminating taste, Morgan and York is one of the best spots in town to find a broad selection of wines, spirits, and beers, as well as cheeses, imported candies and other quality foods.

• Wizzywig Collectibles, 529 E Liberty, 734-213-1112, [72]. Open 11 am to 9 pm Monday through Saturday, and 11 am to 6 pm on Sunday. Large store specializing in Japanese pop culture, with anime videos for purchase or rental, toys, apparel, books, CDs, DVDs, trading cards, wallscrolls and Japanese snacks.

Shopping Centers

• Kerrytown Market, 407 N Fifth, 734-662-5008, [73]. Over 20 shops and restaurants, including a very nice produce and seafood market.

• Ann Arbor Farmer's Market and Artisan Market, 315 Detroit, 734-994-3276. The Farmer's Market is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 7 am to 3 pm, and the Artisan Market is held on Sundays from 11 am to 4 pm; spring through autumn. Local farmers bring fresh produce, baked goods and plants to the Farmer's Market for sale at excellent prices, while the Artisan Market features the work of local craftspeople.

• Briarwood Mall, 100 Briarwood Circle, 734-761-9550, [74]. Open 10 am to 9 pm Monday through Saturday, and 11 am to 6 pm on Sunday. Over 125 shops and restaurants.

Eat

If you're looking for an Ann Arbor specialty, the fragel - a raisin bagel that has been deep-fried and rolled in cinnamon sugar - seems to have originated here, and can be found at the Bagel Fragel chain. It's best to go early and get them piping hot. You'll also notice lots of hot dog carts on street corners, particularly in the summer, selling basic hot dogs for $1 with complimentary toppings, as well as some carts selling more exotic things like tamales and arepas.

If you simply want a good meal, Ann Arbor is well-known for its abundance of excellent restaurants. During warmer weather, be sure to check out the eateries on Main Street that offer outdoor sidewalk dining.

Local Favorites

• Zingerman's Delicatessen, 422 Detroit, 734-663-DELI, [75]. Open daily from 7 am to 10 pm. Vanity Fair called it "the best deli in America." It may also be one of the most expensive. Sandwiches, hot dogs, soups, salads, traditional Jewish favorites, breakfast foods and desserts. Baked goods, ice cream and chocolates are also available on the premises, and you'll enjoy browsing their world-renowned selection of gourmet groceries with the help of their very knowledgeable staff. Sandwiches range from $5.50 (nosher) to $14 (fresser).

• Zingerman's Roadhouse, 2501 Jackson, 734-663-FOOD, [76]. Open 11 am to 10 pm Monday through Thursday, 11 am to 11 pm Friday and Saturday, and 10 am to 9 pm on Sunday. Serving "really good American food", including regional specialties from around the country with an emphasis on down-home Southern food, spicy Southwestern and fresh Californian cuisine. Soups, salads, burgers, sandwiches, macaroni and cheese, desserts and $8 cocktails. $10 - $19 for lunch, $10 - $27 for dinner.

• The Gandy Dancer, 401 Depot, 734-769-0592, [77]. Open for lunch from 11 am to 3:30 pm Monday through Friday, brunch from 10 am to 2 pm on Sunday, and dinner from 3:30 to 10 pm Monday through Thursday, 3:30 to 11 pm Friday and Saturday, and 3:30 to 9 pm on Sunday. Great seafood (check the buffet) in a former train station. Eat here and watch the tracks or, if you're broke (and you will be after the meal), walk along the tracks and watch the diners.

• Krazy Jim's Blimpy Burger, 551 S Division, 734-663-3103. Open 11 am to 10 pm Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 8 pm on Sunday. Despite the official slogan ("Cheaper than food since 1953"), the food's great. Infinitely customizable within the burger-and-fries milieu (plus sandwiches, deep fried vegetables, etc.). $2 - $5.

• Red Hot Lovers, 629 E University, 734-996-3663. Open 11 am to 8 pm Monday through Friday, 12 pm to 8 pm on Saturday, and 12 pm to 6 pm on Sunday. A small but adored hot-dog restaurant offering Chicago-style hot dogs as well as sausages, burgers, chicken and tofu or tempeh substitutes for vegetarians. The restaurant has won local awards for "best hot dog" and "best french fries".

• Le Dog, 306 S Main (indoor location), 734-327-0091; 410 E Liberty (outdoor kiosk), 734-665-2114. Open 11:30 am to 2:30 pm Monday through Friday; closed weekends, and when the owners take ski trips during the winter. As the name suggests, Le Dog does sell hot dogs, but the true star of the show is the rotating selection of 84 homemade soups, of which around 6 are available on any given day. Try the Tuscan squash with blue cheese, the curried wintermelon, the pozole or the famous lobster bisque, which is only available on Thursdays and Fridays. Their fresh-squeezed lemon and orangeades are also delicious. Soups $4 - $7.

• The Fleetwood Diner, 300 S Ashley, 734-995-5502. Diner food 24 hours a day, and because it's Ann Arbor, there are many vegetarian options. You can't miss the shiny metal exterior, and will most likely leave with a story. Try the Hippie Hash, a mixture of potatoes, vegetables and cheese. $4 - $7.

• Angelo's, 1104 E Catherine, 734-663-7222, [78]. Open from 7 am to 4 pm Monday through Friday, 7 am to 3 pm on Saturday, and 7 am to 2 pm on Sunday. Angelo's is popularly known as the best breakfast spot in town, offering eggs, omelettes, waffles, pancakes, French toast and lots of sides. They also serve soups, salads, sandwiches and burgers. Be sure to try the homemade raisin bread they're famous for. $4 - $9.

• Seva, 314 E Liberty, 734-662-1111. Open 10:30 am to 9 pm Monday to Thursday, 10:30 am to 10 pm Friday, 10 am to 10 pm on Saturday, and 10 am to 9 pm on Sunday (brunch served 10 am to 3 pm). With entirely vegetarian cuisine (and many vegan options, too), this is one of the best restaurants in Ann Arbor. Their creative dishes are inspired by Mexican, Italian, North African, Indian, Asian and American cuisine. Tons of options, some delicious offerings and generous portions, though the prices can be surprisingly high (such as $14 for grilled eggplant, steamed broccoli and brown rice with cilantro-peanut sauce). The butternut squash enchiladas are one of their best-sellers. $8 - $14.

• Washtenaw Dairy, 602 S Ashley, 734-662-3244, [79]. Open 5 am to 9 pm daily. Delivering quality dairy products to Washtenaw County for over 70 years. A popular local hangout, the shop carries fresh homemade doughnuts, hand-dipped shakes, malts and ice cream sodas, and over 30 flavors of Stroh's ice cream.

American and Steakhouses

• The Chop House, 322 S Main, 734-669-8826 or 888-456-DINE, [80]. Open from 5 to 10 pm Monday through Thursday, 5 to 11 pm Friday and Saturday, and 4 to 9 pm on Sunday. Appetizers, soups, salads, steaks, chops, poultry and seafood. The Chop House is considered to be one of Ann Arbor's priciest restaurants, so many people only visit on their birthday, when their entree is free! If you just want a little something sweet, gourmet pastries and desserts are available in the adjacent La Dolce Vita for around $7 each (try the crème brûlée with fresh fruits). There's also a cigar lounge downstairs, where you can smoke a hand-rolled cigar while you sip port or cognac. Appetizers $10 - $50, entrees $25 - $44.

• Knight's Steak House, 2324 Dexter, 734-665-8644. Open 11 am to 11 pm Monday through Saturday; closed Sundays. The place where locals go for excellent steaks, prime rib and veal, along with salads, side dishes, seafood and desserts. $8 - $12.

• Weber's Inn, 3050 Jackson, 734-665-3636, [81]. Featuring prime rib, steaks, seafood and an award-winning wine cellar since 1937. Appetizers, soups, salads, entrees, pasta and desserts. Sunday breakfast brunch served from 9:30 am to 1 pm for $9.25. $14 - $35.

Asian

Chinese

• Bubble Island, 1220 S University, 734-222-9013. Open 11 am to 2 am Monday through Thursday, 11 am to 3 am Friday and Saturday, and 12 pm to 2 am on Sunday. Hot and cold milk tea (black or green), calpico, Thai iced tea, coffee and frozen smoothies, with black or rainbow pearls, mango stars and lychee jellies. Drinks come in a variety of cream-based and fruit-based flavors, with the cream-based taro being especially popular. They also offer snacks like chicken wings, fried foods and mochi ice cream. Students often hang out in the lounge to play board games. $2 - $5.

• Chia Shiang, 2016 Packard, 734-741-0778. Open 11:30 am to 9:30 pm Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 8:30 pm on Sunday. Chinese, Taiwanese and Malaysian cuisine and Shanghai dim sum, with a vast vegetarian and vegan menu. Lots of interesting dishes, like amazing sue rou (a soybean product), Shanghai-style vegetarian salad, stir-fried lima beans with mixed pickled vegetables, and laksa. Most dishes $6.25 - $18.95.

• China Gate, 1201 S University, 734-668-2445. Great food with fast service, and relatively inexpensive. $5 - $14.

• Dinersty, 241 E. Liberty, 734-998-0008, [82]. Open 11 am to 12 am Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 12 am on Sunday. To be honest, this place is kind of a dump, but it's arguably the best Chinese food in Ann Arbor. They have many dishes that you won't find in other Chinese restaurants. Try the Chinatown Wonton Noodle Soup. $4 - $15.

• Great Lake Seafood Restaurant, 2910 Carpenter, 734-973-6666. Open daily from 11 am to midnight, and until 2 am Thursday through Sunday. Hong-Kong style cuisine specializing in seafood; dim sum is served through the early afternoon. Most dishes $4.50 - $14.

• Kai Garden, 116 S Main, 734-995-1401. Open 11 am to 10 pm Monday through Thursday, 11 am to 11 pm Friday and Saturday, and 12 pm to 10 pm on Sunday. Lighter, healthier Chinese fare incorporating lots of fresh fruit and vegetables. Highlights are their clay-pot dishes, their fruited entrees (beef with strawberry, chicken with mango or pineapple, prawns with papaya) and the to-die-for eight-treasures rice pudding. Be sure to look at the Chinese menu as well. Most dishes $7.50 - $13.

Japanese

• Sushi.come, 715 N University, 734-213-3044. Very popular among university students. Good sushi at good prices; consequently there can be a wait at lunch. Nice selection of specialty rolls, always fresh. Maki range from $2 - $10.

• Totoro, 215 S State, 734-302-3510. Another excellent downtown sushi restaurant, also serving tempura, a wide variety of udon, and bento boxes. Maki range from $2 - $11.

• Yotsuba, 2222 Hogback, 734-971-5168. Open for lunch from 11:30 am to 2 pm and dinner from 5 to 10 pm Monday through Friday, 12 pm to 10 pm on Saturday, and 12 pm to 9 pm on Sunday. Broad Japanese menu including an array of authentic appetizers, teriyaki and tempura entrees, donburi, udon, curry rice, noodles, sushi, ochazuke, nabemono and bento. Appetizers $3.50 - $9.50, entrees $8 - $23; maki range from $3 - $13.

Korean

• Eastern Accents, 214 S Fourth, 734-332-8782. Open 7 am to 10 pm Monday through Thursday, 7 am to midnight on Friday, 8 am to midnight on Saturday, and 10 am to 7 pm on Sunday. A Chinese-run Asian bakery specializing in baked filled buns (the custard is especially delicious), egg tarts and light Chinese and Korean lunches.

• Kang's, 1327 S University, 734-761-1327. Open 9:30 am to 8 pm Monday through Saturday; closed Sunday. A popular restaurant among Korean students, serving traditional favorites along with some Japanese food. $6.35 - $7.50.

• Pacific Rim by Kana, 114 W Liberty, 734-662-9303, [83]. Open for lunch from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm Monday through Friday, and dinner from 5 to 9 pm Monday through Thursday, and 5 to 10 pm Friday and Saturday; closed Sundays. Originally an upscale Korean restaurant called Kana, the owners branched out into pan-Asian cuisine (largely Korean and Thai) and tweaked the name. Excellent food in a relaxing setting. Be sure to try the homemade, naturally-sweet hot ginger tea. $12 - $22.

• Seoul Garden, 3125 Boardwalk, 734-997-2121, [84]. Open 11:30 am to 10 pm Monday through Friday, 12 pm to 10:30 pm on Saturday, and 12 pm to 10 pm on Sundays. The only Korean place in Ann Arbor that you can have Korean style Galbi grilled right on your table. Side dishes (ban-chan) are authentic Korean style, and group tables (4-60) available. Wider selection of Korean food such as Galbi-Jjim, Boiled Mixed Seafood, Galbi, Bulgogi, and Tofu-Kimchi. $12 - $25.

• Seoul Korner, 414 E William, 734-761-1977. Open 11 am to 9 pm Monday through Friday, 12 pm to 9 pm on Saturday, and 5 pm to 9 pm on Sunday. A tasty Korean restaurant in the downtown area, specializing in Korean stews and traditional entrees, as well as a couple of Japanese dishes. $6 - $7.

• University Cafe, 621 Church, 734-662-7162. Open 11 am to 9:30 pm Monday through Friday, and 12 pm to 9:30 pm on Saturday; closed Sundays. Claimed, by some Korean students, to be the best Korean restaurant in town, University Cafe certainly has a wide selection of Korean favorites like bibimbap, oh moo rice, spicy entrees, stews, noodles and ramen. $5 - $9.

Thai

• Banh Na, 4837 Washtenaw, 734-528-2336. Open 11 am to 10 pm Monday through Friday, 12 pm to 10 pm on Saturday, and 12 pm to 9 pm on Sunday. Mostly Thai food but with quite a few specialties from Laos as well, such as salads, Laotian sausage, and fried rice. $6 - 16.

• Lotus Thai, 2803 Oak Valley, 734-668-2828. Open 11 am to 2 pm for lunch and 4:30 to 9:30 pm for dinner Tuesday through Friday, 11 am to 9:30 pm Saturday and Sunday; closed Mondays. A US branch of a genuine Thai restaurant chain, so the food is as authentic as you're likely to find. The som tam is delicious, and the Lotus tofu - a stew of tofu, chicken, crabmeat, white asparagus, ham, sausage and shiitake mushroom - is a dish that people tend to order repeatedly. $7 - $19.

• Tuptim, 4896 Washtenaw, 734-528-5588, [85]. Open 5 pm to 9:30 pm on Tuesday, 11 am to 9:30 pm Wednesday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 9 pm on Sunday; closed Mondays. Housed in an old Long John Silver's, Tuptim quickly became a local favorite for its high quality Thai cuisine. Entrees $10 - $15.

Vietnamese

• Saigon Garden, 1220 S University, 734-747-7006. Open 11 am to 10 pm Monday through Thursday, 11 am to 11 pm on Friday, 11:30 am to 11 pm on Saturday, and 12 pm to 10 pm on Sunday. Offers Chinese cuisine as well, but Vietnamese is definitely the reason to come here. Excellent dishes include the pho, grilled meat vermicelli, hot pots and the cilantro chicken. Be sure to try the Vietnamese-style coffee. $5 - $18.

Indian

• Chennai Vilas, 207 N Main, 734-302-3711, [86]. Open for lunch 11:30 am to 3 pm Tuesday through Friday, and 11:30 am to 3:30 pm Saturday and Sunday; open for dinner 5:00 to 10 pm Tuesday through Saturday, 5:00 to 9 pm Sunday. Closed on Monday. South Indian cuisine, with a weekday lunch buffet for $7.95 (over 20 items) and a weekend buffet for $8.95 (over 30 items); they also offer special buffets on Indian holidays. Most items $5 - $16.

• Madras Masala, 328 Maynard, 734-222-9006, [87]. Open for lunch 11:30 am to 3 pm Monday through Thursday, and 11:30 am to 3 pm on Friday; open for dinner from 5 pm to 10 pm Monday through Friday, 12 pm to 10:30 pm on Saturday and 12 pm to 9:30 pm on Sunday. South Indian, Indo-Chinese and Moghlai dishes, with a daily lunch buffet. The Manchurian cauliflower is delicious, and they have a wide variety of dosas and uttappams. For an interesting beverage, try the rose milk. $6 - $12.

• Mysore Woodlands, 314 Detroit, 734-213-6017. Open daily 11 am to 9 pm. Pure vegetarian South Indian cuisine in a tiny little building, so be prepared to take your food somewhere else to eat it! Uthappam, dosai, curries, pulao and some very interesting house specials at very reasonable prices. $5 - $8.

• Raja Rani, 400 S Division, 734-995-1545. Lunch buffet 11:30 am to 3 pm Monday through Friday, 12 to 4 pm Saturday and Sunday; open for dinner 5 to 10:30 pm daily. North Indian cuisine. Frequently voted the best Indian restaurant in town. $7 - $11.

• Shalimar, 307 S Main, 734-663-1500. Open daily at 11:30 am. Typically cited by locals as city's all-around best Indian food. Authentic Indian and Tandoori dishes, Indian and domestic beer served. Full bar. Carryout and catering available. Not to be confused with its recent spinoff Café Shalimar (211 E Washington, 734-929-9900).

Middle Eastern

• Exotic Bakeries, 1721 Plymouth, 734-665-4430, [88]. Open 11 am to 8 pm Monday through Friday, 11 am to 6 pm on Saturdays; closed Sundays. An Ann Arbor restaurant featuring Syrian vegan, vegetarian and meat dishes, as well as cakes and traditional Middle Eastern sweets. Sandwiches are $4.49 for veggie and $5.49 for meat; combo plates are $7.49; baked goods range from $0.75 to $2.50; cakes are $25 - $30.

• Jerusalem Garden, 307 S Fifth, 734-995-5060. Open 10 am to 9 pm Monday through Thursday, Friday 10 am to 9:30 pm, 11 am to 9:30 pm on Saturday, and 12 pm to 8 pm on Sunday. Palestinian restaurant highly popular for its cheap but tasty falafel. Consistently voted the best middle eastern, and best cheap eats in Ann Arbor for over a decade. Sandwiches $3.50 - $5.50, combination plates mostly $8.00. Best falafel outside of Palestine!

• Kabob Palace, 516 E William, 734-327-4872. Open 11 am to 10 pm Monday through Friday, and 12 pm to 10 pm Saturday and Sunday. Fresh juices, salads, entrees and sandwiches. The rice almond salad is delicious. $3 - $13.

• Pita Kabob Grill, 619 E William, 734-622-8082. Open 11 am to 12 am Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 8 pm on Sunday. Middle Eastern salads, sandwiches and traditional dishes at very reasonable prices (most sandwiches are under $4), and the owner is extremely friendly. Their vegetarian pitas are unusually diverse; try the makalee pita (cauliflower, potato, hummus, lettuce, pickles and garlic sauce) and the riz b-harr pita (spicy eggplant, potato, cilantro, garlic, rice, lettuce, tomato and pickles). $3 - $12.

Other International

• Amadeus, 122 E Washington, 734-665-8767. An Eastern European cafe with an emphasis on Polish and Hungarian food, and a Viennese patisserie. The pierogies and goulash are delicious, as are their homemade soups. It's best to go for lunch, when the food is practically identical but the prices are much lower. Dinner $9 - $21.

• Ayse's Courtyard Cafe, 1703 Plymouth, 734-662-1711. Open for lunch from 11 am to 2 pm Monday through Friday, and 11:30 am to 3 pm on Saturday; dinner hours are 5 to 8 pm Monday through Thursday and 5 to 9 pm on Friday; closed Sundays. Ann Arbor's only Turkish restaurant, offering soups, salads, pilavs, boreks, lamb, beef, chicken, and many vegetarian stews. $7 - $10.

• Big Ten Burrito, 810 S State, 734-222-4822, [89]. Open daily 11 am to 4 am. Salads, nachos, burritos, chimichangas, quesadillas and tacos, made with fresh ingredients and fresh salsa. $3 (regular) - $9 (giant).

• Blue Nile, 221 E Washington Street, 734-948-4746, [90]. Ethiopian cuisine, with both meat and vegetable dishes served in their all-you-can-eat Ethiopian Feast and Vegetarian Feast options. All meals are served with traditional bread called injera, and Ethiopian coffee and tea are also available.

• The Earle, 121 W Washington, 734-994-0211, [91]. Provincial Italian and French country cuisine. The escargots in puff pastry are delicious. $18 - $30.

• Heidelberg Restaurant, 215 N Main, 734-663-7758. Open 11 am to 10 pm Monday through Thursday, 11 am to 2 am Friday and Saturday, and 3 pm to 2 am on Sunday. American and German specialties, including sauerbraten, rouladen, sausages, spaetzle, salads, pasta, sandwiches, beef, poultry and seafood. An upstairs club features nightly entertainment. $6 - $18.

• Jamaican Jerk Pit, 314 S Thayer, 734-995-JERK (5375). Open 7 am to 10 pm Monday through Thursday, 7 am to 12 am on Friday, 10 am to 12 am on Saturday, and 11 am to 7 pm on Sunday. Jamaican food including soups, salads, patties, seafood, sandwiches, jerk chicken and pork, and more. $5 - $9.

• Pilar's Cafe, 2285 S State, 734-913-2659, [92]. Open 7 am to 7 pm Monday through Thursday, 7 am to 9 pm Friday and Saturday, and 8 am to 2 pm on Sunday. El Salvadorian cuisine. Sylvia Nolasco-Rivers has grown from catering, to selling her tamales in local shops, to opening a tamale cart downtown during warm weather, to opening up her own cafe. Breakfast food, appetizers, salads, soups, tamales, pupusas, sandwiches, Salvadorian specialties, desserts and beverages.

• Za's, 615 E University, no phone. Open daily 10 am to 9 pm. Traditional Italian restaurant with pasta, gourmet pizza, salads and sandwiches with a twist: you can either select from the specialty menu, or you can create your own meal from their custom list of ingredients, sauces, cheeses, meats, vegetables and toppings. Desserts, fruit smoothies and ten varieties of coffee also available. $4 - $6.

• Zanzibar, 216 S State, 734-994-7777, [93]. International fusion cuisine with a heavy tropical influence. The desserts alone are worth the trip. Sunday brunch features eggs, pancakes, french toast and brunch plates. Lunch $5 - $12, dinner $16 - $24.

Cafés

• Cafe Felix, 204 S Main, 734-662-8650, [94]. A French style cafe with the best morning cappuccino in town. Food is great including the evening tapas menu and excellent wine and martini selections. Come sit and read, drink, and people watch. Breads and pastries, soups, salads, omelettes, crepes, gourmet sandwiches and entrée croissants. $2 - $8.50 for lunch, $4 - $9 per tapas dish.

• Cafe Verde, 214 N Fourth, 734-302-7032, [95]. Open 7 am to 9:30 pm Monday through Saturday, and 9 am to 8 pm on Sunday. Next to the People's Food Coop, this is a vegetarian-friendly hot bar and salad bar and cafe featuring local, organic and fair trade items.

Pizza

• Cottage Inn, 512 E William, 734-663-3379. [96] The first pizza restaurant in Ann Arbor, established in 1948. Pizza, salads, subs and pasta. A cheese pizza runs $6 - $10 (10" to 14"); specialty pizzas are $11 to $19 (10" to 16").

• New York Pizza Depot, 605 E William, 734-669-6973; 1235 S. University, 734-222-9850; [97]. Open 10 am to 4 am Monday through Saturday, and 11 am to 4 am on Sunday. Considered by some to be the best pizza in town. Pizzas (including stuffed and Chicago-style), calzones, salads, subs, chapatis and entrées. A cheese pizza runs $7.50 to $13.50 (10" to Sicilian; extra toppings $1 - $3); specialty pizzas are $10 - $22 (10" to stuffed).

• Silvio's Organic Pizza, 715 N University, 734-214-6666, [98]. Open 10 am to midnight Monday through Thursday, 10 am to 3 am Friday and Saturday, and 10 am to 10 pm on Sunday. Probably the only authentic Italian pizza in Ann Arbor; the owner is from Abruzzo, where he baked pizzas for 25 years. The pizza is made from organic flour, herbs and tomatoes, with lots of organic toppings including zucchini, potatoes, asparagus, rapini and shrimp. Stuffed pizzas, pasta, soup, salad, calzones and sandwiches also available. A cheese pizza runs $9.50 to $13.50 (10" to 16"); specialty pizzas are $9 - $19.50 (10" to 16").

Drink

Pubs

• Arbor Brewing Company, 114 E Washington, 734-213-1393, [99]. Open 11:30 am to 1 am Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 12 am on Sunday. Happy hour is all day Monday, and 4 pm to 7 pm Tuesday through Friday. Known to the pub faithful as ABC, this establishment has outdoor seating in the warmer months and a fabulous block party Oktoberfest celebration in the fall. ABC has good food (especially the nachos) and a good variety of unique brews. They also offer a selection of Belgian-style ales brewed onsite. ABC offers monthly beer tastings, with a schedule posted on their website.

• Ashley's Restaurant & Pub, 338 S State, 734-996-9191, [100]. Open 11:30 am to 2 am Monday through Saturday, and 11 am to midnight on Sunday. A busy establishment with good food and an excellent assortment of beers (over 60 on tap). Ashley's is always a good time and worth the wait on the weekends. Sandwiches, wraps, pub pizzas and entrées. $7 - $14.

• Brown Jug, 1204 S University, 734-761-3355, [101]. Open 11 am to 2 am daily. Early bird specials are from 2 to 5 pm, and happy hour is from 7:30 to 10 pm. A popular hangout since 1938, the Brown Jug offers appetizers, salads, soups, sandwiches, burgers, chicken and fish dinners, and pizza. $5 - $16.

• Casa Dominick's, 812 Monroe, 734-662–5414. Open 10 am to 10 pm Monday through Saturday; closed Sundays. A popular hangout south of campus, with lots of outdoor seating on the two porches or in the rear garden. Mostly Italian food, with pizza, pasta, subs and salads. The sangria, served in Mason jars, is very popular.

• Conor O'Neill's, 318 S Main, 734-665–2968, [102]. Open 11:30 am to 2 am daily. Food is served 11:30 am to 11 pm Sunday through Thursday, and 11:30 am to 12 am Friday and Saturday. Serving wine, beer, Irish coffee and other hot drinks. The menu is a mixture of pub food (burgers, sandwiches, soups and salads) and traditional Irish favorites (mussels, shepherd's pie, boxty, fish and chips, and more). The strawberry and rhubarb crumble is delicious. $6 - $10.

• Grizzly Peak Brewing Company, 120 W Washington, 734-741-7325, [103]. Open 11 am to 11 pm Monday through Thursday, 11 am to midnight Friday and Saturday, and 12 pm to 11 pm on Sunday. Features a number of their own brews. In addition to its brews, Grizzly Peak has excellent food and friendly wait staff. In the fall, Grizzly Peak and other area breweries host an Oktoberfest block party, and last year celebrated the season with drink specials and an Oktoberfest beer glass. American cuisine featuring pizza, burgers, ribs, fresh fish, pasta, sandwiches, soups, salads and desserts. $5 - $15 for lunch, $10 - $20 for dinner.

• Good Time Charley's, 1140 S University, 734-668-8411. Open 11 am to 2 am Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 12 am on Sunday. A popular undergraduate hangout with a menu featuring breadsticks, appetizers, sandwiches, burgers, Mexican food and entrées.

• Leopold Bros., 523 S Main, 734-747-9806, [104]. Open 4 pm to 1 am Monday through Wednesday, 4 pm to 2 am Thursday through Saturday, and 6 pm to 1 am on Sunday. Food is served until 10 pm Monday through Wednesday, 12 am Thursday through Saturday, and 11 pm on Sunday. Notable for being "the world's first sustainable brewery", with self-maintained water and waste management systems. They offer organic home-brewed and -distilled beer, gin, vodka, and fruit liqueurs, as well as a limited menu of appetizers and sandwiches.

• Scorekeepers, 320 Maynard, 734-995–0581. Open 5 pm to 2 am Monday through Thursday, 11:30 am to 2 am Friday and Saturday; closed Sundays, except during NFL season. Food is served until 10 pm Monday through Wednesday, and 12 am Thursday through Saturday. Sports bar serving burgers, chicken and sandwiches.

Bars and Nightclubs

• Aut Bar, 325 Braun Ct, 734-994-3677, [105]. Open 4 pm to 2 am Monday through Saturday, and 12 pm to 2 am on Sunday. Food is served 4 pm to 11 pm Monday through Thursday, 4 pm to 1 am Friday and Saturday, and on Sunday, brunch is 10 am to 3 pm, dinner is 4 to 11 pm. Ann Arbor's main LGBT bar, with a cafe serving largely Mexican food, including burgers, burritos and sandwiches.

• Blind Pig, 208 S First, 734-996-8555, [106]. A popular local nightclub and concert venue since 1971, featuring local talent and occasionally larger acts. The 8 Ball Saloon, located beneath the club, is open daily from 3 pm, with pool tournaments Sunday through Tuesday and a darts tournament on Monday.

• Cavern Club, Gotham City and Millennium Club, 210 S First, 734-332–9900 (Cavern/Gotham) and 734-913–8890 (Millennium). Open 9 pm to 2 am Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday to Thursday. Three clubs with one combined cover charge. Cavern Club features live music; the other two play techno, house, and hip-hop.

• Firefly Club, 207 S Ashley, 734-665–9090, [107]. Open 7 pm to 2 am Monday through Wednesday, 5 pm to 2 am Thursday and Friday, 8 pm to 2 am on Saturday, and 5 pm to 2 am on Sunday. Ann Arbor's premiere jazz and blues club, with live music nightly and a small dance floor. The kitchen serves appetizers, dinner salads, sandwiches, and desserts, and there's a full bar for martinis, cocktails, beer and liquor. $3 - $10 cover charge.

• Goodnite Gracie, 301 W Huron, 734-623–2070, [108]. Open 7 pm to 2 am Tuesday through Thursday and Saturday, and 5 pm to 2 am on Friday; closed Sunday and Monday.. A jazz and martini bar featuring local musicians, DJs, open mike entertainment and party events. No cover charge.

• Necto, 516 E Liberty, 734-994-5436, [109]. Doors open at 9 pm; $3 - $8 cover charge. Ann Arbor's hottest nightclub with DJs and live music, and nightly drink specials.

• OZ, 210 S Fifth, 734-222-4770, [110]. A nightclub, bar and lounge with live belly dancing, hookahs and plush couches.

• Studio 4, 314 S Fourth, 734-302–3687, [111]. Open daily from 9:30 pm to 2 am. A sophisticated nightclub featuring house DJs, a lounge, and a dance floor with the best sound and light system in town.

Sleep

There are four main hotel districts in Ann Arbor: near campus; in the southern part of town, where State Street meets I-94; in the southeastern part of town, near the intersection of Washtenaw Road and US-23; and in the northeastern part of town, by the intersection of Plymouth Road and US-23. There are also a few in the northwestern part of town, near the intersection of Jackson Road and I-94. Accommodations tend to be the most expensive in the campus area, so unless you're here for a conference or business trip that's being paid for, you'll probably want to look further out.

Hotels in the campus area are within easy walking distance of downtown Ann Arbor and most of the attractions. The southeastern area is served by two AATA bus lines, route 4 (along Washtenaw) and route 22 (along Carpenter), and the northwestern area is along route 9. The other two areas aren't quite as well linked, although route 2 does go along part of Plymouth Road, and the commuter 36 stops at Wolverine Tower, which is a short walk from the hotels in that part of town. However, you'll most likely want to use your car to get around if you're staying outside of downtown.

Campus Area

Hotels

• Bell Tower Hotel, 300 S Thayer, 734-769-3010 or 800-562-3559, [112]. 66 rooms. A small European-style inn which has received the city's Award for Outstanding Historic Preservation. The Earle Uptown restaurant, serving French cuisine, is on-site. Complimentary continental breakfast, free valet parking. $149 - $173.

• Dahlmann Campus Inn, 615 E Huron, 734-769-2200 or 800-666-8693, [113]. 208 rooms. Fitness center, outdoor pool, sauna, sundeck. Passes available to Central Campus Recreation Building gymnasium. Victors Bar & Restaurant and gift shop on-site. $166 - $188, suites $226.

• Embassy Hotel, 200 E Huron, 734-662-7100. 30 rooms. Built in 1889. Daily rates $39 - $49, weekly rates $159 - $179.

• Inn at the Michigan League, 911 N University, 734-764-3177, [114]. 21 rooms on the fourth floor of the Michigan League. Complimentary breakfast voucher. $130 - $135, suites $225 - $230.

Bed and Breakfasts

• Ann Arbor Bed and Breakfast, 921 E Huron, 734-994-9100, [115]. 9 guest rooms (4 with decks). All have a private bath, local phone, high-speed internet port and covered parking; 2 have kitchenettes. Full breakfast; coffee, tea, and snacks anytime. Innkeepers: Pat and Bob Materka. $139 - $169.

• Burnt Toast Inn, 415 W William, 734-662-6685, [116]. 4 rooms. Art and antiques gallery on-site. Complimentary continental breakfast. Adults only. $80 - $165 (single-person occupancy).

• First Street Garden Inn, [117]. 2 rooms. The home was built at the turn of the century in the Old West Side. Garden, full breakfast with homemade pastries. Innkeepers: Kathleen Clark and Michael Anglin. $100 - $130.

• The Eighth Street Trekkers' Lodge, 120 Eighth, 734-369-3107, [118]. 1 room, with twin beds and shared bath; guests can also camp in the yard or in the garage. 1895 house on the West Side, about a 20-minute walk from campus. Customized adventure trekking in the Nepal Himalayas. Hungarian watch cat and vegetarian breakfast included. Innkeeper: Heather O'Neal. Camping $50, rooms $65.

• Vitosha Guest Haus, 1917 Washtenaw, 734-741-4969, [119]. 11 rooms. An English gothic inn composed of a castle stone chalet house, a Frank-Lloyd-Wright-inspired church, a neo-gothic parsonage, and a coach house tearoom. All rooms have private bath and fireplace. Complimentary deluxe continental breakfast; afternoon tea $10/person. $89 - $119 (single), $129 - $199 (2 to 4 people).

South Side

• Best Value Inn, 3505 S State, 734-665-3500, [120]. 108 rooms. Jacuzzi suites available. $50 - $70.

• Candlewood Suites, 701 Waymarket, 734-663-2818 or 877-226-3539, [121]. 122 rooms. Full kitchen, VCR and CD player, fitness center. On-site gift shop. $82 - $119.

• Comfort Inn & Suites, 3501 S State, 734-761-8838, [122]. 83 rooms. Indoor heated pool, whirlpool and fitness center. Free deluxe continental breakfast and USA Today, jacuzzi rooms available. $89 - $139.

• Courtyard Ann Arbor, 3205 Boardwalk, 734-995-5900, [123]. 160 rooms. Breakfast buffet, lounge, indoor pool, whirlpool, exercise room. $124 - $149.

• Extended StayAmerica, 1501 Briarwood Circle, 734-332-1980, [124]. 112 rooms. Fully-equipped kitchens and workspaces, dining and cooking utensils provided. Free access to Bally's Total Fitness Center. Adjacent to Briarwood Mall. $66 daily, $42/day weekly.

• Fairfield Inn, 3285 Boardwalk, 734-995-5200, [125]. 110 rooms. Indoor heated pool and whirlpool. Complimentary deluxe continental breakfast. $69 - $99.

• Four Points Sheraton, 3200 Boardwalk, 734-996-0600 or 800-848–2770, [126]. 197 rooms. Fitness center, indoor / outdoor heated pool, whirlpool, sauna, Michael's Chop House restaurant on-site. $125.

• Hampton Inn, 925 Victors Way, 734-665-5000, [127]. 149 rooms. Exercise gym, indoor pool, hot tub. Complimentary deluxe hot breakfast and to-go breakfast bags, and free USA Today. $119.

• Holiday Inn Express, 600 Briarwood Circle, 734-761-2929, [128]. 107 rooms. Indoor pool, whirlpool. Complimentary continental breakfast. Adjacent to Briarwood Mall. $88 - $104, suites $98 - $149.

• Kensington Court, 610 Hilton, 800-344-7829, [129]. 200 rooms. Exercise room, heated indoor pool, whirlpool, sauna, Graham's Restaurant and Lounge on-site. Complimentary deluxe continental breakfast available for Executive Level. $109 - $144, executive rooms $124 - $164.

• Motel 6, 3764 S State, 734-665-9900, [130]. 107 rooms. Outdoor pool. $56.

• Residence Inn, 800 Victors Way, 734-996-5666, [131]. 114 rooms. Daily breakfast buffet with American favorites and Asian specialties, weekly catered dinner, evening socials Monday through Thursday, fitness center, pool and whirlpool. Complimentary grocery shopping. Studio, 1- and 2-bedroom suites available, with fully-equipped kitchen and optional fireplace. $139 - $149, penthouse $169.

• StudioPLUS Deluxe Studios, 3265 Boardwalk, 734-997-7623, [132]. 71 rooms. Fully-equipped kitchens and workspaces, dishwasher, on-site fitness center, outdoor pool. Free access to Bally's Total Fitness Center. $43 - $55.

Southeast Side

• Ann Arbor University Hotel & Suites, 3750 Washtenaw, 734-971-2000. 103 rooms. Outdoor pool, on-site Thai restaurant. Complimentary continental breakfast, jacuzzi rooms available. $70 - $90.

• Baymont Inn & Suites, 2376 Carpenter, 734-477-9977, [133]. 50 rooms. Indoor swimming pool, hot tub, fitness center. Complimentary continental breakfast, free newspaper, whirlpool suites available. $89 - $129.

• Comfort Inn & Business Center, 2455 Carpenter, 734-973-6100, [134]. 126 rooms. Indoor heated pool. Complimentary continental breakfast and weekday newspaper. $69 - $75.

• Days Inn, 2380 Carpenter, 734-971-0700, [135]. 127 rooms. Complimentary expanded daybreak breakfast, indoor heated pool and whirlpool, sauna, onsite workout facility. Jacuzzi suites available. $60 - $100.

• Lamp Post Inn, 2424 E Stadium, 734-971–8000, [136]. 54 rooms, 20 with kitchenette. All rooms have a microwave oven and refrigerator or full kitchenette (with stove, oven and dishwasher, along with dishes, pots and pans). Complimentary continental breakfast. Lamp Post Plaza is adjacent for shopping. Daily rates $45 - $60, weekly rates $259 - $299 (regular) or $279 - $319 (kitchenette).

Northeast Side

• Hampton Inn, 2300 Green, 734-996-4444, [137]. 130 rooms. Indoor pool, oversized hot tub (open 24 hours for adults), fitness center. Complimentary hot breakfast and USA Today. $99.

• Hawthorn Suites, 3535 Green, 734-327-0011 or 800-527-1133, [138]. 82 rooms. Full kitchenette. Evening social hour Monday through Thursday featuring light supper and drinks, fitness room, indoor pool, whirlpool, picnic area, tennis and basketball courts, on-site convenience store. Complimentary daily hot breakfast buffet, shuttle service, grocery shopping, USA Today and Japanese newspaper. $105.

• Holiday Inn, 3600 Plymouth, 734-769-9800, [139]. 223 rooms. Indoor / outdoor swimming pool, whirlpool, fitness center, tennis and basketball courts, restaurant and lounge. Complimentary local shuttle service and USA Today. $104.

• Microtel Inn, 3610 Plymouth, 734-997-9100, [140]. 83 rooms. Complimentary continental breakfast. $56 - $76.

• Red Roof Inn, 3621 Plymouth, 734-996-5800, [141]. 108 rooms. $58 - $64.

Northwest Side

• Best Western Executive Plaza, 2900 Jackson, 734-665-4444, [142]. 165 rooms. Indoor and outdoor pool, whirlpool, exercise facility, steam room, on-site restaurant and lounge. Complimentary continental breakfast and newspaper, jacuzzi rooms available. $79 - $89, 3-room suites $250.

• Super 8, 2910 Jackson, 734-741-8888, [143]. 55 rooms. Complimentary continental breakfast, outdoor pool. $55.

• Weber's Inn, 3050 Jackson, 734-769-2500 or 800-443-3050, [144]. 158 rooms. Pool and recreation area, exercise room, sauna, outdoor patio. Popular on-site Weber's Restaurant and Lounge. Complimentary continental breakfast. $120 - $170.

Contact

Internet access

Free wifi access is plentiful at local cafes. Most of them have been mapped in Plazes. [145]

• Digital Ops, 525 E Liberty, 734-994-1595, [146]. Internet access and multiplayer gaming facility with mostly PC video games. The atmosphere is very friendly and social.

Listen

Four good public radio stations are within listening distance.

• WCBN-FM Ann Arbor, 88.3 FM, [147]. Located in the basement of the Student Activities building at the University of Michigan you will find the studios of WCBN. The format is total freeform -- DJs have complete control over their shows -- which makes the broadcasts a mixed bag. The variety is stunning, though, from Sounds of the Subcontinent to emo to classic jazz to Noise Till Noon. They also broadcast a list of upcoming concerts around town at regular intervals.

• WEMU, 89.1 FM, [148]. News, jazz and blues, with a tilt toward little-known fusion and crossover, from the campus of Eastern Michigan University. Consistent quality -- you'll either like almost all of it, or very little. News updates on the hour, and in the early morning and midafternoon.

• WUOM, 91.7 FM, [149]. Talk radio from NPR and PRI.

• WDET, 101.9 FM, [150]. News and music during the day; electronica-tinged underground music at night. Broadcast from Wayne State University in Detroit.

Stay safe

Ann Arbor is generally a very safe town, though the usual rules about common sense (i.e. being aware of your surroundings after dark) apply here as they would anywhere.

Get out

The rest of Washtenaw County has quite a few charming little towns and villages that you might enjoy visiting.

• Ypsilanti is about 15 minutes east on I-94, but practically contiguous with Ann Arbor if you're driving down Washtenaw Road.

• Dexter is about 15 minutes west on I-94.

• Saline is about 15 minutes south on US-23.

• Chelsea is about 20 minutes west on I-94.

• Manchester is about 30 minutes southwest on I-94 and MI-52.

• Milan is about 30 minutes south on US-23.

If you'd rather get out of the county, there are some larger cities and towns a short drive away.

• Dundee is about 30 minutes south on I-23. Most people go for the nearest branch of Cabela's, an enormous outdoor outfitter and hunting/fishing/camping store, but it also has a nice little downtown. A 20-minute drive from Dundee along MI-50 will bring you to Tecumseh, a charming village with a great downtown and some very nice restaurants, including a British imports shop with a quaint tea café.

• Detroit is about 45 minutes east on either I-94 or I-96. If you're not visiting downtown Detroit, you might want to stop in some of the suburbs. There's a nice movie theatre and good restaurants in nearby Canton; Novi and Troy (home of the impressive Somerset Collection mall) are good for shopping; Hamtramck has a sizeable Polish population, and Dearborn is home to the largest Middle Eastern community in the United States, as well as the fantastic Henry Ford Museum and Greenwich Village.

• Lansing is about 1 hour west on I-96. It's the state capital, and home to rival college Michigan State University.

• Frankenmuth is about 1 hour north on US-23. It's a great little tourist town with a Bavarian-style downtown and delicious all-you-can-eat fried chicken dinners.

• Toledo, Ohio is about 1 hour south on US-23. You'll pass several nice little villages on the way. In town, there's a great art museum, a zoo, and a neighborhood of old Victorian homes.

• Grand Rapids is about 2 hours west on I-96. The Frederick Meijer Gardens are one of the city's major attractions.

• Holland is about 2.5 hours west on I-96. It has a charming downtown with great shopping, and several touristy sites and festivals relating to its Dutch heritage.

• Traverse City is about 4 hours north on I-75. Not only is it in a beautiful part of the state, with close access to the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, it's also the cherry capital of Michigan, with a festival celebrating the fruit every July.

• The Upper Peninsula - or, at least, St. Ignace, the nearest town in the UP - is also about 4 hours north on I-75. Driving from St Ignace to the opposite side of the UP, in Houghton, will take you about 5 hours; Ironwood, on the Wisconsin border, is 6 hours.

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