Ao Nang Travel Guide
From Wikitravel
Ao Nang (อ่าวนาง) is the busiest beach destination in Krabi Province.
Contents |
Understand
Formally Ao Phra Nang ("Princess Bay") although everybody uses the short form, Ao Nang is the most 'Westernized' beach in Krabi, originally a backpacker hotspot but now moving slowly upmarket as the airport brings in higher flyers. While not quite as scenic as Rai Leh, there is a good range of cheap accommodation, many good restaurants, easy transport and travel/tour agencies ready to cater to your every whim, making it a good base for exploring Krabi.
Orienting yourself in Ao Nang is easy: almost everything is located either along the beach, which runs west-east, or along the Airport Road (Highway 4203) which goes up north from the east end of the beach. Long-tails arrive on the beach near the junction of the two roads.
Get in
By plane
Krabi International Airport is about 40 minutes away by car. As of 2005, the local airport limo monopoly charges a fairly steep 600 baht for a transfer (up to 4 people). Many hotels will arrange a pickup at similar prices on request.
By boat
Rai Leh West and Ton Sai are only 10 minutes away by long-tail. Boats leave constantly from the east end of the beach and charge a flat 60 baht/person during the day, slightly more at night. There is no pier so expect to get at least your feet wet, probably more.
There are also public ferry services to Ko Phi Phi and Ko Lanta (usually twice daily), for which any travel agent will be happy to sell you tickets at around 200 baht/person.
Get around
Tuk-tuks in Ao Nang charge a flat 20 baht/person for trips around town. Songthaews also run all across Ao Nang onto the Shell Beach (See) and some all the way to Krabi town, fares from 10 baht up depending on distance.
See
- Fossil Shell Beach (Thai Su-san Hoi, literally "Seashell Graveyard"). Some 7 km west of Ao Nang, this mildly traplike tourist attraction has slates of compressed 40 million year old shellfish, which bear not a small resemblance to concrete. There's also a small grubby museum and a huge slew of gift shops. Entry is a steep 200 baht for foreigners - but only 20 baht for Thais.
- Nopparat Thara Beach. Picturesque beach at the western tip of Ao Nang, zoned as a national park. During low tide you can walk up to some of the nearby craggy limestone islands.
Do
There is little to do immediately around Ao Nang, but Rai Leh and Ko Phi Phi are just around the corner and there are many tour operators offering activities such as sea kayaking, scuba diving and elephant treks.
- Kon-Tiki Diving and Snorkeling Center, 290/20 Moo 2, Ao Nang, Tambon Muang [1]. 100% Scandie-run 5-star PADI dive center, but most european language is available as well. Located in the heart of Ao Nang and the only PADI Go Eco dive center.
- Raya Divers, 1/2 Moo 5 Tambol Rawai (about 2 km up Airport Rd), tel. +66-76280074, [2]. 100% Finnish-run 5-star PADI shop, although instruction in English is also available. Good gear and an emphasis on safety.
- Rock Climbing - a day of rock climbing at Rai Leh can be arranged by a tour operator in Ao Nang. This can be convenient as the operator will arrange transfers, lunch and as much climbing as your limbs can handle. Most people find it just as easy to wander over to Rai Leh or Ton Sai on their own and organize an introductory course or day trip on their own. Currently, there are no climbing guides based in Ao Nang.
Buy
Ao Nang has no shopping malls or supermarkets, but there are plenty of convenience stores and souvenir shops. The vast majority of shops are lined nicely along the beachfront road. There are also a few side roads that branch off into the cluster of crowded shops found elsewhere in Asia. The regular tourist fare (e.g. postcards, magnets, trinkets, etc.) are plentiful as are clothes, shoes, and pretty much anything else you'll find elsewhere in Thailand.
Eat
Budget
For cheap eats, there are a few street carts scattered about, although most serve backpacker fare like banana pancakes (15 baht a pop). The fried chicken lady in front of the Tipa Resort does a pretty mean som tam (papaya salad) at 40 baht though, and also look out for the yellow-signed noodle stalls with a "4" in a bowl as their logo, which dish out a garlicky but tasty bamii muu daeng (roast pork noodles) for 25 baht.
Generally the places along the beach are more expensive and the ones up the hill tend to be cheaper and better value. Even up past McDonald's on the right some do squid and fish at amazingly low prices.
- Tonsai Restaurant, Ao Nang Soi 15 (15 minutes from the beach up Airport Road). Popular low-key eatery offering a good spread of good Thai food. Most dishes around 50 baht.
- The Boat Cafe on Airport Road (opposite the 7-11) has no sign in English but is easily recognizable from the old long tail boat outside which they use to serve up thom yum and other Thai soups at lunchtime. Dishes cost 20-35 baht, and the best recommendation is the large number of locals coming in for an evening meal.
Mid-priced
- Wanna's Restaurant, facing the beach in central Ao Nang, offers rather good Thai and Swiss dishes for approx. 100 baht.
Splurge
- Absolut, opposite McDonalds (5 minutes up Airport Road). Swedish fare like meatballs and mashed potatoes from 200 baht and up, and not just Absolut Vodka but Aalborgs Akvavit as well. They also do a very good authentic Christmas spread (790 baht), reservation one day before required.
Drink
There is no shortage of places for a drink, and not very many Patong-style girlie beer bars or go-go joints.
Sleep
Budget
Mid-range
Splurge
- Ao Nang Villa, 113 Ao Nang Beach, tel. +66-75637270-4, [3]. Only 30 meters to the Ao Nang beach.
- The Cliff Ao Nang Resort, 85/2 Moo 2, tel. +66-75638117 /8. One of the swankiest small resorts in Krabi, opened 2003. Location is quiet, with precipitous cliffs as the backdrop, but just off the main road and only 10-20 minutes on foot from central Ao Nang and the beach. Bungalows from 3500 baht up, rather small in size but with nice Balinese-style open air bathrooms and all modern conveniences. Breakfast in bed included. No children under 14 allowed.
Get out
- The cliffs and beaches of Rai Leh, just 15 minutes away by boat, make a great day trip. Phra Nang is the next beach past Rai Leh and has dramatic limestone 'karst' rock formations. Names get confusing, as Ao Nang (the developed resort) is sometimes called Ao Phra Nang. From Phra Nang you can walk across to Rai Leh East, with its mangroves, and hire kayaks to paddle round the rugged peninsula. There's also a path from Rai Leh East to Rai Leh West where the most longtails call.
- Poda Island is another good day trip - you come back with the same boat and only pay on return. There's even an area to the right of where the longtails come in to Poda that's just worth snorkelling (unspectacular coral but a fair few fish).
- Ao Nang is one of the main gateways for travel to the Phi Phi islands, about 2 hours away by ferry.
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