Bishkek Travel Guide
From Wikitravel
Bishkek (Бишкек, بىشكهك) (population in 2005 approx. 900,000) is the capital of the Kyrgyz Republic (Kyrgyzstan).
Contents |
Understand
In general, the kyrgyz people are relatively friendly, but hard to really get a grasp of.
Also, do not trust the Lonely Planet guide for this country. Most of the information is innacurrate, if not completely misleading. The other book (the only other one), with the yellowish-green cover, is much better.
Get in
Bishkek is connected to Kashi in Western China via a pass that was an important link on the ancient Silk Road. You can also come from China/Kashgar over the Toragut pass, if you have the time and patience. Known as one of the most frustrating passes in Central Asia, both sides can be closed for holidays or seeming randomness.
By plane
From London you can fly British Airways, the clearly preferred method. Alternatively, you can fly in from Urumqi, China on China Southern Airlines, or from Istanbul on Turkish Airlines. If absolutely necessary, you can also fly in from Moscow on Aeroflot, but expect absolutely no leg room, dodgy airplanes, lost luggage, and a feeling of regret for not simply riding a donkey into the country.
By train
By car
By bus
Get around
See
The sites around Bishkek (not in) are probably the reason to come to this country. Lake Issy-Kul is beautiful, although the water is too cold to swim in long.
- Ala-Too square is the main square of town, right next to the white house. At night it turns into a semi-carnival, with a mini ferris-wheel, music, and a fun scene. The museum is here (35 som, an extra 100 to take pictures) with some interesting artifacts from Lenin, but no English. In addition, a Lenin statue can be found behind the museum, which used to be out front (where the tall Freedom statue now stands). A highlight is to notice the degree of degredation of the area around the Lenin statue, as you can imagine the previous glory it used to have in front of the museum.
Do
Learn
Work
Buy
Eat
In general, Central Asia's main disadvantage is its food, and Kyrgyz is no exception. After weeks of opening a dumpling (Monte) to find more cartilage and mystery meat, we found ourselves craving places like McDonald's which we never eat when available.
Budget
Mid-range
- Fatboy's (Chuy 104) used to have a good reputation, but has apparently declined in both quality and international appeal in the last few years. Both my travel mate and I disliked our meal, and disliked the food poisoning even more. Another person we ran into also had a 24-hour period of throwing up after eating there, so staying away from this restaurant is advised.
Splurge
- Bombay Restaurant has pretty good indian food, for about $5/dish. The chicken has the usual 3rd world standard of not living up to expectations, but the samosas are good, and the mutton meals found here were quality. It is a nice break from Kyrgyz food.
- Golden Bull (Chuy 209) has some nice dishes for about $5/dish. After the regular Kyrgyz food, steak cravers will enjoy the spicy steak, which has an Indian flavor but does not shy away from the meat. Also, a cold Heineken is a nice relief from strange Baltika beers.
Drink
Several major night clubs are operating in the city, the main ones being Apple, City, Heaven, Fire & Ice and Emporio. Average entrance fee is 300 soms for men and 200 soms for ladies.
Sleep
Budget
Mid-range
- Alpanist, Panfilov 113. The Alpanist is one of the best deals in town, for those willing to pay a bit more for a lot more luxury. $36 for a single, you get a very nice room, shower with consistent hot water, toilet with a strong enough flush for toilet paper, the nicer toilet paper (not the usual sandpaper), and yes, air conditioning! The highlight of this place for us, however, was the existance of English speaking CNN and BBC (even the MBA Business Center Hotel doesn't have this).
- MBA Business Center Hotel, Panfilov 237 at Panfilov and Frunze. Large spacious rooms, $60 for single, $76 for double (breakfast included), filled with uncomfortable beds and showers with iffy hot and cold water pressure. However, the space makes up for the lack of comfort, and the staff is friendly.
Splurge
Contact
Stay safe
- Stay out of the parks at night
- If taken aside by police officers, if you are willing to wait it out, you can usually get away without paying a bribe
Cope
- The main trick for travelling in this region (and all of Central Asia) is being able to handle the bland and usually bad food. Our main recommendation is to find a restaurant you like, if you are lucky enough (or if you take our advice!) and stay with it. While it may seem glamorous to try out new restaurants, it is more glamorous to build up your endurance for more bad food by enjoying every possible meal.
Get out
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