From Wikitravel

Pest is the eastern side of the Danube River in Budapest, Hungary.

Contents 1 Get in 2 See 2.1 Downtown 2.2 Andrássy út 2.3 City Park 2.4 Museums 3 Do 4 Buy 4.1 Markets 4.2 Malls and department stores 5 Eat 5.1 Coffeehouses 5.2 Restaurants 5.2.1 Budget 5.2.2 Mid-range 5.2.3 Splurge 6 Drink 7 Sleep 7.1 Budget 7.2 Mid-range 7.3 Splurge 8 Contact

Get in

The metro network does a pretty good job of covering the Pest side of the river, with all three lines meeting up at Deák Ferenc tér in the center of the city. The trams running along the east bank fill in a useful gap.

See

Downtown

• Parliament (Országház). Kossuth Lajos tér. The Hungarian National Parliament building is the largest in Europe, designed by architect Imre Steindl for the 1896 millennial celebrations, and built 1880-1902. It is based on England's Parliament building, and supposedly is one meter wider and longer than that august building, just a little bit of architectural conceit. The building is so immense, the weak alluvial soil along the Danube had to be reinforced with a 7-foot-deep concrete foundation. Not surprising, as the building is 300 yards long and 140 yards wide, with 691 rooms and 12.5 miles of corridors. The lacy white Gothic froth covering the building is actually educational: 88 statues representing Hungarian rulers, princes and military commanders. These statues are small and cannot be readily distinguished from the ground, but they are there.

Under the Parliament's cupola the Hungarian crown jewels are exhibited. After World War II, the medieval crown (last used in 1916) was taken out of the country by escaping Hungarian fascists, ending up in the United States. President Carter returned the crown to the Hungarian state in 1978, accompanied by a large American delegation. It was exhibited in the National Museum intil 2000 when it was moved to its present location.

The only way inside the building is via organized tour. Tour times: 10a Wed-Sun (when Parliament is in session), 10a and 2p Mon-Fri, 10a and 12:30p Sat, 10a Sun. Admission: 800 ft adults, 300 ft children.

• St. Stephen (István) Cathedral. Though often called "the Basilica" for short due to its clerical rank as a basilica minor, it actually is shaped like a Greek cross, with two steeples and a dome on top. Designed by Miklós Ybl and József Hild, and built 1851-1905, it is as high as the Parliament building -- it's the highest church in Budapest. Walking in the main entrance, after climbing a series of stairs, the viewer is first greeted with a relief of St Stephen, then a mosaic of Christ's resurrection. There are many notable mosaics in this church, especially those within the dome designed by Károly Lotz, best known for his ceiling frescoes in the State Opera and Ethnographic Museum. While designed here, the mosaics were made in Venice. The foremost Hungarian artists of the day designed the artworks within St Stephen's, among them Bertalan Székely, Gyula Benczúr and two men also known for their work in the Opera, Mór Than and Alajos Stróbl. Here Stróbl contributed the central statue of St Stephen on the main altar. You can also climb to the very top of the Basilica to get a wonderful view of the city, for a fee.

• Great Synagogue and the Jewish Museum. Dohány ut. 2-8. This synagogue is unique both because of its size, and its two onion-shaped domes, which are forty-three meters high. Onion domes are typically found on Catholic churches, and Hungary is a very Catholic country. Perhaps Ludwig Förster, the architect, meant for it to blend in a bit.

• Ethnographic Museum (Néprajzi Múzeum). Kossuth Lajos tér 12 (across from Parliament). Sometimes said to resemble the Reichstag (parliament) building in Berlin, the white neo-Renaissance façade complements the Gothic-style Parliament building just across the square. Do not miss the richly decorated interior, including the ceiling frescoes by Károly Lotz (who also frescoed the State Opera's ceiling). The building was originally used to house the Supreme Court and chief public prosecutor's office, explaining some of the motifs used in the frescoes.

Andrássy út

This boulevard was built... on Paris type. It connects the Erzsébet tér in V. Disrtict and Hősök tere in City Park. It crosses the körút at always-busy Octogon which square got its name from its shape.

• Millenium Subway. Hungarian people are very much proud of the oldest subway in continental Europe. (London was the first, Budapest the second, Paris the third.) The recently renovated metro 1 line (yellow) is a historical memory of Budapest's richest period (around 1880-1910) and goes along under the boulevard. Convenient way to reach the outer areas of City Park. Normal ticket needed.

• State Opera House Andrássy ut. 22. Built between 1875-1884 by the premier Hungarian architect of the day, Miklós Ybl, who also worked on nearby St Stephen's Cathedral.

• The House of Terror (Terror Háza) [1]. Andrássy út 60 (few hundred metres from Octogon. You will find it.). The building in the block of "Andrássy út 60." was used both by Nazis and and the communist-led Political Police/State Security Police as a headquarter. In the basement a labyrinth of prisons was created. Many people were jailed and even executed here. 2002, the "house of fear" was converted into an impressive but depressive museum about nazi and communist terror and helps to understand Hungary's 20th century.

City Park

At the end of Andrássy út City Park (Városliget) is probably the most pleasant of Pest's districts and houses a number of interesting if low-key attractions often skipped by the package tour companies. The area is easily accessible with the yellow subway line (nearest station M1 Hősök tere) and entry into the park, including the castle grounds, is free.

• Heroes Square (Hősök tere) - with the Millenium Monument in the middle and two museums on the two sides:
  • Museum of Fine Arts (Szépművészeti Múzeum). 41 Dózsa György útca, tel. (36-1) 1429-759. Open daily except Mondays 10a-6p. The Museum of Fine Arts has an incredible range of European artwork from Greek and Roman times to the present. It is best known for its Spanish collection, the largest accumulation of Spanish paintings outside Spain. There is a large Greek and Roman collection, an Egyptian collection, much Italian (also French, German and Dutch) sculpture, including a statue of a man on horseback by da Vinci, and a very large collection of 10,000 drawings and 100,000 engravings rivalled only by similar collections in Berlin.
  • Műcsarnok. [2]. An "art hall" showcasing exhibitions of modern art by Hungarian and international artists, if you're nearby it's always worth taking a look to see what's happening today. Open 10 AM to 6 PM daily except Monday, admission varies from exhibition to exhibition.

• Vajdahunyad Castle (Vajdahunyad vára). While loosely modelled after a Transylvanian fortress of the same name, the building is not really a castle at all: it's a (very large) scale model built for Hungary's 1896 millenial celebrations. The structure has three distinct wings, one Gothic, one Romanesque and one Baroque, making it quite a bizarre sight when seen from a distance! But sneak up closer and its magic will be revealed: thanks to the moat, the trees and the carefully laid footpaths, you can usually only see one section at a time. The attention to detail (all copied from real sites around the country) has been painstaking, so it's like seeing three extraordinarily pretty castles rolled into one. The structure was originally supposed to be only a temporary one, but Budapest's people liked it so much that it was rebuilt to last. Located on an island in the middle of the park's lake.

• Hungarian Agricultural Museum. Housed in Vajdahunyad Castle's baroque wing, this is the only part open to the public and it now houses the exhibits on breathtaking topics like cattle breeding and fishing. But at 50 ft a throw for students it's worth seeing just for the architecture.

• Ják Chapel (Jáki kápolna). Another creatively borrowed building, this time based on the Abbey Church of Ják in Western Transdanubia. The outstanding part of the chapel is the portal around the doorway, an amazingly ornate multilayered sculpture of geometric patterns, apostles and lions.

• Next to the chapel is the statue of Anonymus, a hooded monk representing the unknown historian who recorded the annals of the early Magyars in the time of the mighty King Béla. (He is unknown partly because the King Béla he dedicated his work to could be any of 3 or 4 during the 12 and 13th centuries.) Hungarian writers still trek to the statue to touch his quill for inspiration.

• Walking about 300 metres from Hősök tere south-eastwards on Felvonulási tér you can see an crazy office building designed by Dutch architect Eric van Eegeraat. The building evoked many debates. But the recently renovated modernist building by ??? ??? next to it is a masterpiece without any doubt.

Museums

National Museum - (Nemzeti Múzeum, Múzeum körút 14/16. Hours Tue-Sun 10a-6p Mar-Oct, 10a-5p Nov-Mar. Tel. (+36-1-338-2122), [3]. Not to be confused with the Hungarian National Gallery (Nemzeti Galéria), located in Buda Castle. Founded in 1802 by Count Ferenc Széchenyi, whose manuscript, map, numismatic and print collections formed its initial core holdings, the Hungarian National Museum was designed and built by the popular architect Mihály Polláck between 1837-1847. When it opened, it was the fourth largest museum in Europe. However, it was far enough from the city proper that sometimes loose cattle from the weekly Kálvin tér market wandered into the museum!

Before entering, take note of the museum's exterior, a fine example of neoclassical architecture, with an exceptional portico. Eight Corinthian columns support a frieze with an ornamental cornice and a large pediment. The pediment features the allegorical figure of Pannonia (Pannonia was the Roman name for the Hungarian lands) sitting with the Hungarian coat of arms on her shield, surrounded on either side by Science and Art. The exterior of the museum is also significant for what has taken place there. During the 1848 revolutions that swept through Central Europe, on 15 March, Sándor Petőfi (perhaps Hungary's most famous patriotic poet) recited his emotionally gripping poem called "National Song" to a large crowd from the left pillar of the National Museum's exterior staircase. This poem pleaded with the nation to liberate Hungary from the Habsburg oppression. Not everyone was impressed. The director of the museum recorded in his diary that a noisy mob had gathered outside the building that day, disturbing his work so much that he left for home.

Major acquisitions and collections donated by the Kubinyi, Pyrker, Marczibányi and Jankovich families rapidly expanded the museum's holdings. Late in the 19th century some collections were separated from the general holdings to form new specialized museums such as the Museum(s) of Fine Arts, Applied Arts, Natural Science and Ethnography. Today the museum's five major divisions (archaeology, Middle Ages, modern era, numismatics, historical paintings), two permanent exhibitions, and archaeological library (with over 100,000 volumes!) make it one of the richest museums in Central Europe.

Do

• You don't want to miss a boat trip on River Danube! Then you can enjoy both riverbanks and the bridges at the very same time. It is especially spectacular at night. Boats leave from Vigadó tér.

• Széchényi Spa (Széchenyi Fürdő). Állatkerti krt. 11, [4]. Built in 1909 in the present-day City Park, this is the largest spa in Europe and its waters are reputedly capable of healing pretty much anything, particularly gynecological, dermatological, nervous system and digestive system problems. Open daily from 6 AM to 4 PM (and until 7 PM weekdays). Admission fees are complex, but basically you hand over 2300 Ft and can get up to 700 Ft back if you leave within two hours. Nearest metro station is the eponymous Széchenyi fürdő station on the M1 yellow line.

• State Opera. 22 Andrássy út. [5] Actually the guided tours - every 3pm and 4pm - are more expensive (1000HUF/4EUR) than a ticket to the opera(from 700HUF/3EUR). Don't buy the cheapest one but the second cheapest, then you will be able to see the stage as well. But even if tickets are expensive you will enjoy the performance even if your not an opera-buff. You can get cheaper tickets during the summer when there often are opera festivals. Most operas are in Italian, but at the State Opera they subtitle the entire perfomance in Hungarian. The hall is beautiful and in i's original state. On the balcony surrounding the hall they have put the name of every classic opera performed there into the wood. It has to be seen to be fully appreciated.

• City Park's lake offers boating in the summer and ice skating in the winter.

Buy

Markets

• Great Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok). Fovám tér. A grand old three-level market hall, with a modern supermarket in the basement, small stalls selling mostly gourmet food items on the ground floor (more paprika and goose liver than you can shake a stick at) and handicrafts on the second floor. A bit touristy these days but still worth a visit, haggling and comparison-shopping recommended.

Malls and department stores

Váci utca is Hungary's premier shopping street and consequently very expensive.

• WestEnd City Center. Váci út 1-3, tel. 238-7777, [6]. The largest shopping mall in Central Europe with over 400 shops, and one of the newest in Budapest. Pop into the pleasant roof garden for a break. At the southern end of Váci út, nearest station M3 Nyugati pu..

Eat

Coffeehouses

• Gerbeaud. Vörösmarty tér 7, tel. 429-9000, [7]. Budapest's most famous cafe, an incredibly ornate Rococo confection dating to 1858 and lavishly restored in 1997. It's also priced to match, but still reasonable value as the pastries, desserts and ice cream remain excellent.

• New York Kávéház, Erzsébet körút 9-11, tel. (36-1) 322-1648, [8]. Hours: Open daily 9 AM - Midnight. This is the complete opposite of Buda's Ruszwurm: absolutely over the top ornate, shiny, dazzling. The New York has been a writer's haven for years -- before WWII writers would often come to "work" first thing in the morning, buy some coffee and write in the café all day until it was time to go home. This café was rammed by a Russian tank in the 1956 Hungarian uprising, and the damage has still not been repaired! Obviously, the Russians knew what would sting the most -- damaging a popular coffeehouse! Update: As of September 2003, the Kaveház was closed for renovation. The Italian Hotel group Boscolo has purchased the property and is restoring it to its former glory. According to management, it's due to open early 2006, but check before going there.

• Centrál Kávéház is a very famous high-end coffeehouse. Recently renovated.

There are two areas packed with cafés: Liszt Ferenc tér (next to Andrássy út, between Opera and Oktogon) and Ráday utca (starting from Kálvin tér).

Restaurants

Pest has many great places to eat, but an unfortunate number of tourist traps as well. Avoid restaurants in touristy areas like Váci utca, especially if the customers are all foreigners, or you'll more likely than not be served mediocre food with an exorbitant bill padded with all sorts of bizarre charges. In other restaurants too, note that anything you don't explicitly ask for, but appears on your table anyway, is likely to be charged for.

Budget

• Govinda-Klub, Vigyázó Ferenc u. 4, tel. 234 23 88, open weekdays from Noon - 9 pm, from the Chain Bridge exit into Pest, turn left into Apáczai u. then take the second right. Aaah, Hare Krisna, the saviour of vegetarians and budget-conscious travellers across Eastern Europe. Get your fill of tasty and very reasonably priced Indian and Italian dishes, ranging from soups (350 ft) to lasange (500 ft) or sample a bit of everything with the set menu (1200 ft). The staff are helpful and some speak English. Highly recommended.

Mid-range

• Fatál. Váci utca 67, tel. 266-2607. Possibly Budapest's most famous restaurant, popular with tourists and locals alike and the one place worth going to on Váci utca. Located in an atmospheric cellar, the foreboding name means "wooden platter" in Hungarian, and refers to the plates that the ridiculously huge portions are served on — an order of goose with dumplings, for example, will lead to an entire goose being deposited on your plate. Takeaway bags are provided on request if you can't finish it all. In solidly meat-eating Hungary, this is also one of the few places where you can sample vegetarian versions of dishes like goulash. Prices have risen but remain affordable (1500-2500 ft), and reservations are essential if you show up even near lunch or dinnertime.
• Firkasz, near Nyugati station. Small and cosy with great atmosphere (including walls cutely decorated with objects associated with the newspaper trade) and excellent Hungarian food and wine.

• Indigo. 1066 Budapest, Jokai u.13 has excellent Indian food, with great options for vegetarians. It around the corner from the Opera House.

• Leroy Cafe. Arany János utca. Great view of St. Stephen's Basilica. Original and tasty interpretations of the Hungarian food, as well as Italian and other varieties of European food.

Splurge

• Képiró, V. Képiró u. 3, tel. 266 0430, [9]. Hours: open weekdays from midday - 3 pm, 6 pm - midnight, Saturdays 6 pm - midnight. Very modern Hungarian haute cuisine with some exotic influences. Excellent wine list, exclusively with Hungarian wines. The staff are very helpful, friendly and speak excellent English. Be aware that if asked for advice, they will unashamedly recommend their most expensive. Highly recommended, the food is delicious.

Drink

• Gödör Klub, Erzsébet tér, downstairs, under the piscine. In the very centre of Pest, right next to metro hub Deák ferenc tér, this bar and cultural centre is a pleasant spot to enjoy drinks on the outside terrace, sit on the stairs and listen to music, chill out - day or night. It offers concerts (usally for free) on the outside stage during summer, inside the rest of the year. Nice park above it.
• Beckett's Irish Pub, Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 72, [10]. Claims to be Budapest's only authentic Irish bar and restaurant. Open noon to 1 AM weekdays, 3 AM weekends; closed on Sundays.
• Fat Mo's Music Pub. Nyári Pál u. 11, [11]. Apparently has live music most nights of the week.
• Fregatt, V. Molnár u. 26, 318-9997. A British-style pub that's popular with foreigners. The interior is styled after a frigate.
• Cafe Negro, 1051 Budapest Szent István tér 11. A popular hang out for ex-pats and locals. Great drinks and beautiful women make this one of the major stops for anyone looking to fall in love with the city.

There are dozens of romkocsma (literally translated: ruin-pubs) in city centre (V.-VI.-VII. districts). These inhabit ruined courts of old houses, therefore they are hard to be found. Ask locals for hints and go for the unique post-socialist atmosphere!

Sleep

Budget

• Origo Hostel & Guesthouse Budapest, Nador street 34. 2nd floor (5th District) [12] -Cosy, clean guesthouse with 4 comfortable, nice private rooms in Budapest downtown - check the web site - www.origohostel.com -! Reasonable prices: 14-18 EUR/Person/night, sights next to Origo: Parliament building, Chain bridge, Kossuth square - metro stop.

• Aboriginal Hostel. Bródy Sándor utca 46. Tel. (+361)2668646, [13]. Next to the National Museum in the City centre. Staff very helpful and speak very good English. They have also recently (as of Sep. '05) set up the Boomerang Hostel, Bank utca (2nd Floor). Both are highly recommended. The Boomerang is more modern, with a very new clean kitchen. Both have twin private rooms priced at 5000Ft (Sep. '05) per person per night.

• Diáksport Hostel. Dózsa György út 52, tel. 340-8585 [14] Flagship of Budapest's largest hostel chain. Huge and impersonal, but a good way to meet... other backpackers. Dorm beds expensive at 3000 ft, tiny private rooms better value at 3300 ft and up (per person). Nothing much to see nearby, but near M3 Dózsa György út station.

• Friends Hostel Budapest, Haris koz 2. (at Vaci walking street) (3rd Floor) (5th District) [15] Very good located small hostel in a walking street. Cheap prices: dorm from: 2 000 HUF (8 EUR)/Person/night, dbl from: 3 000 HUF (12 EUR)/Person/night; Clean, well equipped, friendly staff, highly recommended!

• Apartment 4 Budapest, Akacfa utca 12. (City center, close to Blaha Lujza ter station) [16] Warm , Cozy 2 bedroom apartments located in the city center. All our flats are fully furnished, with kitchen, t.v. , shower, 2 seperate rooms and can accommodate up to 6 people for 58 eur / night. Just check out our website or call us at +36 30 245 9516

• Mellow Mood Central Hostel - large hostel in a good location. Full of backpackers and a 24hr bar, staff are friendly if somewhat inept... By far not the cheapest hostel accommodation available though.

• Mellow Mood Marco Polo Hostel in Nyar utca [17] Staff not particularly welcoming or helpful. Very clean and well maintained. Expensive compared to other hostels in the area. Easy to find. Internet access was very expensive (250Ft/half hour) in the portal here. There are plenty of internet cafes locally charging 100Ft/half hour. Excellent buffet breakfast included. You do not have to stay: the breakfast can be purchased on its own for 460Ft per person.

• The Station Guesthouse, near Keleti train station [18] This happening joint sees a constant stream of backpackers from around the world; a small bar and a common area with a pool table and couches mean that every night has the potential to become something of a party. If you don't mind the noise, the friendly staff and guests will likely make your stay very enjoyable. Accommodation includes 4 and 8 bed dorm rooms with generous locker space and balconies.

• NS Youth Hostel, along the Váci street [19] The Hostel has an excellent location in the downtown of Budapest, in the heart of the business and shopping area, the world-wide famous street Váci utca ( the pedestrian zone) and only 150 metres from the Danube.

• Red Bus Hostel, V Semmelweiss utca 14, 1st floor. Spacious dorm rooms with comfortable beds, a full kitchen where you can cook your own food. Dorm beds go for about 2700 Forint, or just under 15 USD. Red Bus also has another location further north. If the main building is all booked, ask the staff if they can reserve a bed for you in the second building.

• Come Inn Hostel, 1132 Váci út, 32, 1st floor. The Come Inn is located across from the Westend Shopping Centre and just down the street from the Western Railway Station. This place provides free coffee and tea all day long. There are free lockers in the room. Internet access is available. Laundry on site for a fee. Access through a courtyard, but be quiet out there at night.

Mid-range

• Arcadia Apartment, Eötvös ut, 6th District. Near Nyugati train station and Oktogon. tel. +36306125826, fax. (36-1)3023548, service@arcadiaapartment.com [20] Spacious, comfortable accommodation in some of Budapest's best central locations. Broadband internet connection in each room and satellite TV, DVD, washing machine, Jacuzzi. Air conditioning. 45-60 EUR/night.

• Leo Panzió, Kossuth Lajos u. 2/A, tel: (36-1) 2669-041, fax: (36-1) 2669-042. Centrally located near Váci utca, this is a small, friendly and modern three-star hotel. It has air conditioning, which can be a god-send during summer. Take time to savour the ancient and ornate lift. Rooms €55 and up.

• Radio Inn, Benczúr u. 19, tel. 142-8347. Small 3-star apartment hotel in a quiet upscale neighborhood, within easy walking distance of City Park. Rooms €43.00 and up.

• ApartmentsApart , [21]. +48.22.820.9229 (1-866-387-6429 Toll Free from the USA & Canada). More than 40 serviced apartments are offered within the historical city of Budapest. Studios, 1, 2 & 3 bedrooms for every budget. Studios start as low as € 45 per night. All apartments are centrally located to ensure you stay right in the heart of the city.

• Budapest Pension , [22]. +36 20 58967729 More than 40 pensions in Budapest.

• Hotel Mátyás , [23] is located in the centre of Budapest just a couple of minutes from the pedestrianized Váci Street lined with elegant boutiques.

Splurge

• The Gresham Palace [24] is a stunning reconstruction of this Art Noveau masterpiece. Located in central Pest, it faces the beautiful Chain Bridge, the Danube and the Castle Hill. Its restaurant and cafe are amongst Budapest's finest, and well worth visiting in their own right.
• Danubius Hotel Gellert [25] located in a picturesque environment at the foot of Gellert Hill, on the bank of the Danube, is ideally situated for both business and leisure travellers. This impressive location is within walking distance to Budapest's most fashionable shopping and business district with one of the most beautiful sights of Budapest, the Liberty Bridge.

Contact

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