
Cartagena Travel Guide
From Wikitravel
Cartagena [1] is a city in Colombia, a country in South America.
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Understand
Cartagena is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Considered by many as one of the world's most beautiful, fascinating and magical cities, Cartagena was founded by Spanish conquerors as a main port to bring Europeans and their goods into South America, and transport gold, silver and all sorts of plants, animals, minerals and handicrafts from all over the continent across the Caribbean and on to the Old World.
Today the city hosts intellectuals and plenty of beautiful refurbished homes amongst exotic, highly attractive and dynamic plazas, waterfronts and other public spaces. One of the most hospitable venues for any tourist looking for a good rest, Caribbean and Colombian magical realism and tropical ambiance or natural wonders.
The city was one of the first sanctuaries of freed African slaves in the Americas and is currently populated by an ethnic mix representative of Colombia's own variety.
Cartagena, located on Colombia's northern coast and facing the Caribbean Sea, is the most visited city in the country by tourists. It gets extremely crowded in the December holidays and the holy week, when schools are out and most Colombians take their vacations. The city has basically two main parts where tourists go: the walled colonial city ("ciudad amurallada"), which is truly amazing and has many fancy restaurants and clubs; and a long strip of hotel towers and condos fronting onto the beach, known as Bocagrande.
Get in
Cartagena is 1000 km north of Bogotá (about an hour by air), or three hours' flight from Miami and five hours from New York City. The Rafael Nuñez international airport receives international flights from Panama City, Miami and Madrid.
The bus terminal is 6 km east of the old city. Frequent white and green metrocar buses go to the old city and cost C$ 1,000 ($0.50). Buses leave every hour for Barranquilla, and from there there are frequent connections to Santa Marta.
Get around
The old town in particular is best explored on foot, while most places in Bocagrande are also within walking distance.
To reach other destinations such as the San Felipe fort, there are many buses running all over the city without apparent order or logic. Ask the driver or other people who are waiting which bus goes to your destination.
Taxis are generally easy to find, although in the old town you may have to walk a few blocks away from the center, toward the wider road close to wall. From the old town to Boca Grande or vice versa, expect to pay COP$4,000; from the airport to the old town is COP$7,000 or COP$10,000 at night.
A horse and cart is a popular way for tourists to get to know the old town. These can be flagged down in the street or there are usually some waiting at the Plaza Bolivar or close to the Santa Clara hotel.
Cartagena has several harbours for boats going out to the Islas del Rosario and Playa Blanca, including the Muelle Turistico, Muelle Todomar. hola
See
- Cartagena's 500-hundred year-old coralstone forts and great parts of its walled city are admirably intact and represent some of the finest examples of civil and military architecture of the Spanish colonial times.
- While you are in Cartagena, don't miss the Castillo de San Felipe, a fortress designed by the Dutch engineer Richard Carr and built in 1657 by the Spanish for protection against pirates while shipping gold out to Europe. Opening hours 8am-6pm, entrance fee COP$ 11,000.
- Close to the San Felipe fortress is the 150m high La Popa hill, which offers great views over Cartagena and the harbour area. The 17th century Santa Cruz monastery is here, which has a beautifully restored courtyard and a fine image of the Virgin of La Candelaria. Entrance to La Popa is COP$3,000.
- Cartagena's main attraction is its historic old town surrounded by the city wall. Main entrance is the Clock Tower Building. The walled city includes the neighbourhoods Centro, San Diego, Getsemaní and the modern part La Matuna. The oldest part of Cartagena is around Plaza Trinidad in Getsemaní.
- Museums: Cartagena is a city full of history, which can be visited at the Palacio de la Inquisición (Palace of Inquisition), where the spanish Inquisition tortured, judged and convicted men accused of crimes against religion. It is situated in 'Plaza de Bolivar', in the historic center. A turist guide can be get in english for COP$15.000.
- Churches: Almost all churches in the historic center are worth visiting, especially Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, in honor of the prist St. Pedro Claver, who was the first saint of the new world for his work with slaves; La Catedral, near Plaza de Bolivar and the Iglesia de Santo Domingo.
Do
- Nearby coral reefs, powdery beaches, impressive mangroves, and waterways complement the historic and urban beauty.
- If you are interested in beaching it, Playa Blanca is the place to be. You can take either take a ferry from the port near the Centro de Convenciones or go by car (via the bridge to the island of Baru). There is also a direct bus going on Sunday morning. The beaches are far cleaner than those in and around the city. There are a lot of vendors trying hassle you for oysters or massages. You can rent a hammock and stay the night as well, which is a very budget-conscious way to spend a few days.
- Several agents arrange boat tours to Islas del Rosario. A set of small islands out of the coast. Usually the tour include lunch, a visit to an aquarium and a few hours at Playa Blanca. Not included in the price is harbor tax and park entrance (C$8.300 total) and the entrance fee to the aquarium (C$12.000). If you buy your tour at one of the street vendors, don't pay in advance, preferably pay part or all at return in Cartagena.
Playa Blanca , definitely is the best beach of Cartagena, but not that easy to reach. With its white sand & crystal water probably one of the best “playas” in Colombia! After tour-boats are gone its getting as well very peaceful and quiet. It is worthwhile to stay on Playa Blanca for at least one night. There are several places where you can rent hammocks, get food & drinks.for example “Wittenbergs place” or "donde Raimundo" . On the beach you will be approached to buy massages, fruit platters, sea food and jewelry among other things. Look out for the vendors selling oysters: they will give you an oyster as a present (regalo) to taste. They will quickly crack the shells and serve you a number of oysters, after which you are told that they each cost 2.000 pesos. Avoid this 30.000 peso charge and the subsequent argument on the beach. If you are looking for great seafood and Coco Locos, ask around for Nelson Mandela.
By boat:Take a bus or taxi to “Mercado Bazurto”, the big market of Cartagena about 10 minutes from the Center. From there, every day, except Sundays, small cargo-boats (lancha de carga) leave for Playa Blanca. They don´t have an exact departure time, be there before 9 a.m. to be sure. You will have to pay about 15.000 pesos each way(september 2006) and the trip takes more or less 1 hour to reach the beach.The way back is much easier, most boats (tourboats) will bring you back for the same price. Keep in mind that the last boats from Playa Blanca to Cartagena leave around 2-3 p.m.! More comfortable and safer is taking a roundtrip from the center at Muelle de las Pegasos. You can bargain down a one-way-trip without lunch to about 25.000 Pesos plus 8.300 port tax. The tour takes you to Rosario Islands first until it reaches Playa Blanca in the late morning. You can leave the tour there to stay overnight.
Overland by public transport (2-3 tough hours): 1. Bus to Pasacaballos – 2. ferry or canoe to cross “Canal del Dique” – 3.on the other side you take any kind of transport to Santa Ana (bus,jeep,mototaxi) 4.from Santana further on to Playa Blanca there are buses,jeeps or mototaxis - try to reach Santana until 9 a.m .later on, there could be a problem to find transportation to Playa Blanca in that case you will have to walk about one and a half hours –– fare all together around 3.500 pesos or 12.000 pesos if you take a moto taxi once you crossed te "canal del Dique"
Warnings
Watch out for the "Money-Changing-Magicians"
Those street vendors offer you a very good exchange rate. After you have counted the money you will recognize that a small amount is missing, and after complaining he will put exactly that amount on top again. In the same move they will take some big notes from the bottom. Most people won't count their money a second time, and first think they made a good deal but in fact got ripped off.
Be careful at your personal safety at Getsemaní, especially at night.
The street vendors can be very annoying, but a simple "No quiero nada" in Spanish will keep them away.
Buy
- Handcrafts are fashionable and sophisticated
Eat
Cartagena features a rich fusion cuisine, combining ingredients and methods of the New and Old worlds, as well as of the original African, Arabian and other legacies of its inhabitants. Eating set menu lunches and dinners in local restaurants costs around COP$4,000 pesos ($2). A typical dish consists of fried fish (if you are by the beach), chicken or meat, served with coconut rice (arroz de coco), fried plantains (patacones) and salad. There are a few places that sell $1 fruit juices. Colombia boasts a very good range of exotic fruits that can be mixed with water or milk.
In the old town, dozens of good restaurants can be found dotted around the streets. They are particularly concentrated close to the Plaza Santo Domingo in El Centro, such as:
- Saint Michel - on the northwest corner of the Plaza. If you fancy a change from the usual seafood or Italian restaurants, this French option serves some very tasty fondues as the main courses in its three-course menus, very good value at around USD$10, as well as plenty of other dishes and wine at more reasonable prices than at most restaurants in this area.
There are also several around the smaller but more intimate San Diego Plaza next to the Santa Clara hotel and include:
- La Cevicheria - Calle Stuar, opposite Hotel Santa Clara, Tel: 6642760. A great selection of hot and cold ceviches, around USD$8 a dish.
- Pazza Luna - good, super thin crust pizzas, as well as some other dishes such as pastas.
Drink
- One of the most popular watering holes for local Cartageneros is Mister Babilla, located on the Avenida del Arsenal, near the Centro de Convenciones. This place is great on the weekends and is notorious for having people dancing on the tables and the bar late into the night! A great time!
- La Avenida del Arsenal is located along the bay near the Centro de Convenciones. In its heyday it was THE place to be. Now much of the nightlife in Cartagena has moved to the Ciudad Vieja, but this strip of about 10 discotecas is still a raging place to experience on weekends. Entry to most of the discos is 10,000 to 20,000 Colombian pesos.
Sleep
In the ciudad amurallada, the most famous hotels are Santa Clara and Santa Teresa, both old monasteries renovated in the 90s. Either of them have fabulous facilities - expect prices like Monaco. Otherwise, the newest part of the city, Bocagrande, offers the largest number of hotels of all prices. You should always try to stay in the ciudad amurallada, since this is what makes Cartagena unique, rather than its beaches, which are normally too crowded and not really clean. If you cannot afford the five-star hotels, you may try with colonial houses turned into hostels, but they are rather small and sometimes getting a room there may be a matter of luck.
Budget
Budget hotels and hostels can be found in Getsemaní
- Casa Viena, Calle San Andrés (Getsemaní), 5-664-6242 (hotel@casaviena.com) [2]. Popular backpackers place with several 2 to 4 person rooms some with bathroom and a dormitory with arco. Facilities include internet, personal strongboxes, bookswap and a communal kitchen. Price for a dormbed C$10.000 and around C$12.000 per person for a room.
Mid-range
- Hotel 3 Banderas, Calle Cochera del Hobo #38-66, (Barrio San Diego), +57-5-6600160 (info@hotel3banderas.com) [3]. Small colonial hotel, different rooms and suites from USD 50 to USD 100.
- Hotel Casa del Curato, Calle del Curato Cra. 7 Nº 38-89, (Barrio San Diego), +57-5-6643648 (info@casacurato.com) [4]. The hotel was recently converted from an 18th century mansion and opened in Dec 2005. Good breakfasts served by Eufemia. Attractively furnished although regular rooms are small and windowless, also lots of mosquitoes. Two internet computers for guests. Rooms from USD 70.
- Casa India Catalina, Calle del Coliseo No 5-67 (Centro), Tel: +57-5-6644361 (casaindiacatalina@gmail.com) [5]. Also recently converted, opened in 2006. Spacious rooms, some with balconies onto the street. Decent swimming pool. Simple furnishings. No hot water. Rooms from USD 60.
- Casa La Fe, Calle 2da de Badillo, No 36-125 (San Diego), Tel: +57-5-6640306 (admin@casalafe.com) [6]. Rooms from USD 75.
- Casa Mara, Calle del Espiritu Santo, No 29-139 (Getsemani), Tel: +57-5-6648724. Rooms from USD 85.
- Hotel Bahia, Cra 4a-Calle 4a (Bocagrande), Tel: +57-5-6650316. Rooms from USD 55 to 100.
- Hotel-Hostal Santo Domingo, Calle Santo Domingo, No 33-46 (Centro), Tel: +57-5-6642268 (hsantodomingopiret@yahoo.es). Great location close to the Plaza Santo Domingo. Rooms priced from COP$47,700 (USD 20) for one person to COP$97,700 (USD 40) for six people. A/c extra. Also caters for groups of up to 25.
Splurge
Up-scale hotels can be found in the San Diego and El Centro area of the old city.
- Agua (Centro) Calle Ayos, No 4-29. Tel: 664-9479. A beautiful boutique hotel with rooms from COP$500,000 plus tax in low season.
- Casa El Carretero Calle Del Carretero, # 10B-18 (Getsemani), Tel Colombia: +57-300-660-5575 [7] www.CasaElCarretero.com Rooms from $150 US to $250 US. One of the cities newest boutique hotels in town. Rates include personal chef, broadband internet access and a la cart breakfast.
- Hotel Sofitel Santa Clara Plaza Cr 8 No 39-29, Calle del Tomo (Barrio San Diego), Tel: +57-5-6646070.
- Hotel Santa Teresa Plaza Santa Teresa, Cra 3a, No 31-32 (Centro), Tel: +57-5-6649494.
Get out
- At the 66 kilometre north of Cartagena lies Volcán del Totumo, a 15m high mud volcano. You can enter the crater and take a mud bath (entrance C$2.000), which is enormous fun and highly recommended. Afterwards you can wash off the mud in the nearby laguna.
- The easiest way to get there is to take a tour. These cost around COP$30,000 with Rafael Perez tours (next door to the Cartagena Plaza Hotel in Bocagrande) and include the one hour each way journey to the volcano, as well as lunch and a swim at La Boquilla on the return to Cartagena. Another tour company is Los Pinos, which also charges COP$30,000 (or $25,000 without lunch) and uses the Manzanillo del Mar fishing village for a swim on the return journey. This tour can be booked from many hotels, such as the Casa Viena, in Calle San Andrés (Getsemaní), 5-664-6242. Although the mud bath and massages are offered free of charge, you will be expected to tip anyone who helped you before your bus leaves. Other services expecting tips include storing your belongings, your shoes, holding onto your camera and taking snaps while you are immersed in the mud, and the women who help you wash off in the laguna. Tips of between COP$1,000 and $5,000 for each person are the norm, depending on the service. Be sure to bring change.
- To go by yourself is quite a hassle, but you may find you have the whole volcano to yourself and take all the time you want. To go by yourself take a bus from the city center to Terminal de transporte (COP$1,000). There take the hourly bus to Galerazamba and get off at Lomito Arena (COP$4,000). From there it is 45 minute walk or take a motortaxi (COP$2,000). The whole trip takes about two-and-half hours. The last bus back from Lomito Arena leaves around 3pm.
- Botanical gardens Jardin Botanico de Guillermo Piñeres
- A pleasant escape from the city rush, 18 km out of Cartagena close to “Turbaco”, a small town 20 km from the center of Cartagena. Take a bus to the bus terminal and get of at “la Bomba de Amparo”, a big gasolin station 25 minuits out of the center.from there, are leaving buses to “Turbaco”- get off (ask the driver)a bit before Turbaco and walk to the right,about 20 minuits straight on. Together with your entry ticket you get leaflet which lists about 250 plants identified in the gardens, including some varieties of coca plants.
- Punta Arena
- A fishing village 10 minutes by boat on the island of “Tierrabomba”,in front of “Laguito” (Bocagrande).You reach it by boats (lanchas),leaving from “Muelle de los Pegasos” or with boats in “Laguito” next to the Hilton Hotel. Punta Arena has probably the nicest beaches close to Cartagena. There are restaurants where you can get food and drinks. Enjoy a day, hanging out under palm trees with a fantastic few on the skyline of Cartagena.
- La Boquilla a fishing village (pueblo de pescadores) close to Cartagena.
- Take a bus for COP$900 (octuber 2006), from India Catalina (Avenida Venezuela), if you get off of the bus at the end of the ride you can rent a canoe which brings you to a nice beach (playa de oro) passing trough lagoons and mangroves – pay for the boat once you are back.
- Bocachica - a fishing village on the island of “Tierrabomba” (pueblo de pescadores)
- Bocachica is worth to visit to see its restored fortress (fuerte de San Fernando). The beach isn't really special but o.k to hang out for some hours .you find several open air restaurant serving food and drinks.
- Local boats leave during the day every 30-45 minutes from "Muelle de los Pegassos". The boat ride takes about 15 minutes. Guides will try to sell you expensive “all included” trips to Bocachica but you should pay just the local fare. (in september 2006 - COP$3,000 pesos – one way) Once you ask for the price it will get more expensive.
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