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Cuzco Travel Guide

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Plaza de Armas at night
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Plaza de Armas at night
Cuzco from Sacsayhuamán
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Cuzco from Sacsayhuamán

Cuzco (also "Cusco", or "Qosqo" in Quechua), located in the Southern Sierras is a fascinating city that was the capital of the Incan Empire. Cuzco is a Unesco World Heritage Site and is one of Peru's most visited cities.

Contents

Understand

Alley in Cuzco
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Alley in Cuzco

More information on Cuzco is available from the official Tourist Office:

  • Dircetur, Portal Blankets 117 (close to the Plaza de Armas), 222032.

Get in

By Plane

The airport is at the edge of the city (taxi ride). There are daily internal flights to and from Lima, Arequipa and small jungle airstrips in the Amazon basin. The closest main international airport is Lima. The cheapest one way flights to Lima cost around USD 70. Frequently, bad weather conditions can cause flights to be cancelled, often up to two days on end. If you are flying straight into Cuzco, beware of altitude sickness for the first couple of days. Drink mate de coca (coca tea), the local remedy for this. Many hotels and hostels provide it to guests upon arrival. Also be sure to rest, most guidebooks and locals suggest minimal activity during your first day in the city. Altitude sickness (soroche) tends to sneak up on you and its symptoms may not be apparent at first.

Note that the market rate for a taxi from the airport to the Plaza de Armas is 3 - 5 soles, not 30 or more as they may try to charge you.

By Bus

The Terminal Terrestre is about a 20 minute walk down the Av. Sol. You can also take a taxi for a few soles.

Buses are plentiful from other Peruvian cities like Lima (about 24 hours), Puno (6-8 hours), Arequipa (10 hours, 20 soles), Nazca (14-16 hours) etc, but are quite long and slow, although the views can compensate. The main roads are quite good, but some can be bad, making trips take longer than expected.

Also, make sure your bus has a bathroom or that it stops for bathroom breaks every couple of hours before you buy tickets. There Puno-Cuzco buses that have neither, and that can mean a VERY long 6-8 hours.

  • Expreso Los Chankas, Pje Cáceres 150. As far as we could tell, the only place to offer direct service from Ayacucho to Cusco. 55 Soles each for a 22-hour ride on a semi-cama bus. Buses at 6:30am and 7pm.

By Rail

Get Around

The centre of Cuzco is small enough to walk around, although you will probably need to catch a bus or taxi to the bus station, Sacsayhuaman or airport. Beware about walking around at night alone and/or drunk, robberies have often been reported.

Taxis are very common in Cuzco. Officially they cost 2-4 soles depending on distance. Call Alo Cuzco Taxis http://www.alocusco.com Often many drivers are not locals. Beware when using taxis at night; robberies have been reported in collusion with taxi cab drivers, at certain times radio taxis may be the safest option. The driver might also try to extort a hefty sum of money (15 soles) for a short ride if you don't haggle before - which is likely if you're just arriving at night at the bus terminal and want to avoid the hoards of touts. Just pay 5 soles and leave it at that.

If you are staying in Cuzco for a long time, the Combis are a cheap and reliable form of transportation. These are the Volkswagon vans and small buses with names like Imperial, Batman, or Zorro. It costs about .55 centavos to ride them. If you are unsure if a certain combi will take you where you want to go, just ask. They will call out the stops as they go and if you want to get off, you just yell "Baja!", as in, "I want to get off!" They run until 10 pm. But if you are a fan of lots of personal space, this may not be the best option for you, as they tend to be quite full. Carry your backpack in front of you.

See

Boleto turistico


A boleto turistico is required for access to some of the sights in and around Cuzco. It can be bought at the Oficina Ejecutiva del Comité (OFEC), Av Sol 103, Cuzco, ph: 227 037.

There are three different kind of tickets:

  • A full ticket (valid for ten days and for all sites), 70 soles;
  • A student ticket (ISIC sudentcard required as proof), 35 Soles;
  • A partial ticket, (only valid for one day and a limited number of sites) 40 Soles.

The ticket gives access to the following sites in Cuzco: Santa Cataline Monastry, Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo, Museo Historico Regional, Museo del Sitio del Qoricancha, Museo de Arte Popular, Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo Danzas Folklórico and Monumento Pachacuteq. And around Cuzco: Sacsayhuamán, Qénqo, Pukapukara, Tambomachay, Chinchero and the ruins of Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Tipón and Pikillacta.

Museums and galleries

  • Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo, located in the Municipal Palace at Plaza Regocijo. Has exhibitions of contemporary art. Admission with the boleto turistico
  • Museo Historico Regional, located in the home of the Inca historian Garcilaso de la Vargas. Many paintings from the 17th and 18h century.
  • Museo del Sitio del Qoricancha, Av Sol. With information about the different pre-Columbian cultures and fragments of ceramics and textiles of the Inca culture.
  • Museo de Arte Popular, located in the basement of the OFEC office. Displays a collection of popular art.
  • Galleries; the stunning scenery of the Cuzco area are often very well depicted by local artists. It is possible to find cheap prints that are of surprisingly good quality if you're prepared to shop about.
  • Santa Catalina Convent, also a collection of religious art. Admission with the boleto turistico.

Historic

  • The walls of the city are Incan walls, particularly near the Plaza de Armas.
  • Monumento Pachacuteq, down Av. Sol, is a statue of the Inca warrior King Pachacuteq. The statue is placed on a cylindrical base and the total monument is over 22 metres high. The cylindrical base can be climbed, but views are disappointing because the monument is located at a lower part of town. Admission with the boleto turistico.

Do

  • Walk around the Plaza de Armas; the square has churches, shops, restaurants and bars backing on to it and is a great place to spend an afternoon.
Plaza de Armas
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Plaza de Armas
  • Water Rafting - Although the water is of dubious health value, the trips offered are very tame and certainly don't offer tourists good value for money. Cuzco, full of Incan history, has much more to offer than this and one would be well advised not to bother with it.

Learn

  • Beginning, Intermediate, and Advanced Classes in Quechua, the native language of the Andes, are taught (in spanish) at El Centro Bartolome de las Casas which is located on Tullumayo street, close to Limacpampas.
  • or you may take classes in the ACADEMIA MAYOR DE LA LENGUA QUECHUA visit this site http://www.amlquechua.org

Work

  • A great program for students is ProPeru, part of the NGO ProWorld Service Corps. They do sustainable community development work such as building kindergartens, irrigation systems, and fish farms in rural communities in the Sacred Valley They offer semester programs, internship programs, and short-term group programs, all ranging from a few weeks to a few months. Programs include living with a host family, sightseeing, spanish classes and other coursework.
  • For the adventurous, communities in the Sacred Valley often welcome volunteers to teach English or provide other skills to community members.
  • In the city, there are many opportunities to work with street children. The most notable is called Bruce Peru. Also there are opportunities to volunteer at one of the cities' orphanages.
  • I would advise people to think twice before making any commitments to this Business due to the amount of un happy ex volunteers and how the loacls have been upset. Please double check and ask arounbd this ONG has a very bad reputation

Buy

If you want cheap cheap touristy stuff, go to one of the two Saturday and Sunday morning markets in Juliaca (about 5 hours away by bus), Puno (about 6 hours away by bus). They are about 1/3 the price of Cuzco.

If you don't want to go so far away, but still want touristy stuff, go to the Artisan Market at the intersection of la Avenida del Sol and Tullumayo. It's the big red building near the fountain.

Also, Pisac, a town outside Cuzco, has a very big market. It is about 30 minutes from Cuzco by bus. The bus station is on Tullumayo street a couple blocks from Limacpampas. The fare is very cheap, and you can see the Incan ruins at Pisac.

Also in Aguas Calientes and Machu Pichu prices can be the double of what they are in Cuzco.

The further away you get from the main square, they cheaper things become, although there is a mini-mart next to the big church in the main square that is cheaper than in my hotel, then there is the San-Pedro market where bread is s/0.10 and a glass of combination juices is s/1.50 and they give you like 2-4 refills. Don´t go too far from the main square at night though, it can be dangerous.

If you travel to the "Sacred Valley" (Valle Sagrado, including the towns/ruins of Chinchero, Ollantaytambo and Pisac), there is lots of touristy stuff to buy, you can barter, but the prices won´t go down much.

There is another market called Molino, you have to take a taxi and it costs s/4 to get there. In this market you can buy heaps of illegal merchandise, DVDs, CDs etc. A good quality copy DVD is s/8, or you can by 5 VCDs for s/10.


Eat

Lomo Saltado, a popular dish
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Lomo Saltado, a popular dish

The Cuzco area has some extremely good international food with tasty options for all budgets. Best pizza ever at the end of the Av. Cultura. There's no need going to the expensive restaurants (which often only serve foreign food anyway), go to the restaurants that serve local food. Be sure to try an alpaca steak (don't forget a llama/alpaca is normally kept and used for it's wool - so only old animals will be slaughtered. But cuy (guinea pig) is the absolute traditional holiday food of the region. A must when visiting a market is to enjoy, in the cold season, "once frozen" / cooked potatoes.

  • If you are looking for traditional Peruvian food try lomo saltado (beef tips with tomatoes, onions, and spices, over a bed of french fries and rice), aji de gallina(chicken in a very good yellow sauce with olives and hard-boiled eggs), or Papa Rellena (stuffed potato with beef, olives, hard-boiled egg, vegetables, and spices)
  • Also, try eating at a Chifa. This is the Peruvian version of Chinese food. The neighborhood of Wanchaq has many Chifa restaurants.
  • Try Inca Kola, a bubble gum/tutti-frutti flavored soda. This drink outsells Coca-Cola in Peru; update: it appears to be a subsidiary of the Coca-Cola company! Also, Chicha Morada is a Peruvian specialty. It's a spiced drink made out of purple corn.
  • The soups are amazing. Try Sopa de Zapallo (a type of pumpkin soup)
"Cuy" the regional specialty, roasted Guinea Pig
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"Cuy" the regional specialty, roasted Guinea Pig

Food quality on the whole is good in Cuzco; hygiene can however be rather lacking in places. Be wary of food like burgers - although cheap, this is not a local speciality.

  • There are huge and cheap breakfasts at Yaku Mama at the end of the Gringo Alley.
  • The sister restaurant Yaku Mama Grill on Plaza de Armas has some really good dinners, and a cheerful English-speaking waitress called Yolanda, but is a bit short on the alpacas.
  • Jack's Cafe by the South American Explorers clubhouse at Choquechaca 188 (on the corner) serves fantastic food.
  • The absolute place though is MAMA Amerika (former Mama Africa) which actually is everything on 3 levels: snack, cafe (rooftop), restaurant (with a good cheap menu), 2 discos, the latest movies on DVD. Some of the decorations and paintings are by the owner/artist.
  • The Crossed Keys Pub looking onto the central square is a pub serving European food to tourists.
  • Kukuly, Nuaynapata 318, is a cozy place with friendly prices also attracting locals, ran by a Swiss guy. Daily menu for 4 soles.
  • If you want some late night food after clubbing go for Los Angelos a very good fast food type restaurant close to Ukuku's near the Plaza de Armas
  • If the delicious Peruvian food does not agree with your stomach, and you need a break, there is a restaurant called Jack's(thought by most to be the best restaurant in Cusco) which serves a variety of delicious close-to-home foods in large portions. This is the best place to get a big breakfast complete with eggs, bacon, avocado, toast. You name it... and they probably have it. It's located on Tullumayu street close to the top of the hill. Also, right outside of Jack's is an empanada stand which has the best rocoto (a spicy salsa that goes well on the cheese or meat-stuffed pastries.
  • If you are not brave enough to try the empanadas on the street, stop by Meli Melo's near Limacpampa and order an empanada or a Bolivian saltena.
  • And remember, that if you get sick, go to the nearest pharmacy and ask for Ciproflaxin or Cipro. If you can't remember that, just tell them, "Estoy enferma/o. Duele el estomago." and 90% of Cuzco pharmacists will give you Cipro.
  • If you are looking for fresh fruits and vegetables, go to one of the open air markets. A good one is called Molino 2. This is close to the airport, so you might need to take a taxi.
  • If you are looking for grocery stores there are only 2 in the city. The biggest one is called La Mega and is close to the Plaza de Tupac Amaru. The other is called Gato's Market and is located in the Plaza de Armas by Mama America. You can find uncommon foods such as sliced bread, milk not in a can or powder, and peanut butter at both.

Drink

There are many clubs and pubs in cuzco, and there are always people handing out flyers around the Plaza de Armas. These usually include free drinks. The clubs are almost always busy, even during the week, do not have cover charges, and are most are open until 3 at the earliest and 5 at the latest. The "hot-spots" change nightly; ask around and you will quickly find the crowds of travellers.

  • Mama America, this is a popular place in Cuzco, a lot of people, good music, good atmosphere and free salsa lessons. Salsa starts at about 9 and goes until about 11. If you really want to learn some moves, dance with Carlos, Miguel, or Checo, who work there. It also plays host to the legendary 'crew' - lively lot of Lima ladies whose exploits with gringo males have reached mythical levels.
  • If you want to get away from the tourist crowd for a while and dance the night away with the locals, head to Caos on la Avenida de la Cultura next to the post office. It's a huge very nice club with a great mix of music and exotic drinks.
  • If you want to find a place with more locals in the Plaza de Armas, try El Muki, located across the street from Mama America. It has a unique cave-like interior and is one of the city's oldest discos.
  • Mythology is another disco that offers salsa. If you want to learn Cubana Rueda, this is the place to go. Classes usually start around 9 and private lessons can be arranged with Cesar, the dance instructor. Mythology also offers a unique decor of gods and goddesses and has the cleanest restrooms of all of the nightclubs, by far.
  • If you want to dance meringue and salsa all night, head to Garabato's which features a live salsa and meringue band most nights. This is where the salsa crowd goes after 10 or 11 when the other clubs stop playing salsa.
  • If you are looking for live music head to Ukuku's. Features local and travelling artists that play a variety of different types of music including salsa, meringue, criolla, and afro-peruvian. Also the free drink tickets here is the pisco sour. There are great decorative masks in the walls and a huge wooden woman statue with butterfly wings, that´s awesome.
  • Mama Africa is a popular club among tourists which plays a good mix of music and is always full.
  • If you want some very cheap drinks before you go out dancing try Blue Moon on Tullumayo street. It's a small bar with a local crowd.
  • If you want to chill with the hippy crowd go to the neighborhood of San Blas near the Plaza de Armas. There's a very chill restaurant/lounge called Los Perros (Tecsecocha 436) that offers delicious ethnic food and comfortable couches. If you want to hear a great percussion group, a great place to go is the Blue Martini. There is also a hookah lounge closeby.

Sleep

  • San Blas - the area 4 blocks from Plaza de Armas - where very many new hospedajes/hostales have opened.

Hostels

  • Hospedaje Estrellita, Avenida Tullumayo 445, Cuzco. Shared double rooms surround a large concrete courtyard. There is a kitchen with a sociable commonroom with cable TV. A night cost 12 soles and includes a small breakfast. It's popular with gringos.
  • LOKI Backpackers Hostel, Cuesta Santa Ana #601, Centro Historico, Cuzco, ph: +51 (0) 84 243705 (email:[1]) [2]A new hostel set up by 4 backpackers in a 450 year old Peruvian national monument. Dorms from $6. Excellent evening menus served for ~$3, busy bar on weekend evenings, generally noisy place to stay, but loads of fun. Hot water with pressure in generally shared showers. If you like European-style hostels and want to meet young, hip travelers this is the place to be. Highly recommended. Note that it is far enough from Plaza de Armas (and uphill) that you will want to take a taxi for 2 or 3 soles. The taxi driver may not know it by name, so give them the address. Make sure they drive down Cuesta Santa Ana rather than trying to drop you off at the top or the bottom of the hill, as it is a bit of a hike with your bags.
  • Casa Arco Iris , Calle Arco Iris 535, Barrio San Cristobal, Cuzco, ph: +51 (0) 84 247526. Set in a centuries old building, the friendly owners have only being running Casa Arco Iris since early 2006, so it is still a bit empty, making it very calm and quiet. Rooms from $4.
  • Rimacpampa Hostal Close to the plaza, Amazingly hot showers, with good water pressure (Hard to come by in Peru). TV and good food also. http://www.rimacpampahostal.com/

Budget

  • Hospedaje Corona Real, Av Huascar 226, 808111. Quiet and cheap option about 15 minutes walk from the city center. Rooms are spacious and have private bathroom and local television and cost 15 soles pppn.

Mid-range

  • Hostal Familiar, Calle Saphi 661, three blocks from Plaza de Armas. Singles go for $8.00 @ night with private bathroom + hot water.
  • Hotel El Balcon, a short distance from Plaza de Armas, awesome interior design, delicious breakfast and moderate prices.
  • Orquidea Real, Calle Alabado 520, (email:[3]) [4] The colonial building has original Inca walls and exposed wood beams, and the rustic accommodations are simply decorated in a cozy mountain lodge aesthetic. All rooms are oriented toward Cuzco below, offering panoramic views.
  • Gran Hostal Machu Picchu, Calle Quera 282, ph: +51 (0) 84 23 1111.

Splurge

  • Hotel Royal Inka I or II, [5] Located right in front of the Plaza Regocijo, about 150 meters from la Plaza de Armas. Royal Inka I is a renovated house while Royal Inka II is more modern with a spa (jacuzzi and steam room). There is a great breakfast.
  • Hotel Monasterio, Calle Palacios 136, Plazoleta Nazarenas, Cuzco, ph: +51 (0) 84 24 1777, (email: [6]) [7]. By far the best place to stay Cuzco. Housed in a former monastery, the Hotel Monasterio is a beautiful hotel that is steeped in history. The rooms are former monks' cells, but they are far from monastic. If you are looking for luxury in Cuzco, this is the place to find it.

Stay Safe

  • Drugs - Drug law enforcement is very severe in Peru - that is, years in prison and no pleasure. Consider that many "long resident tourists" are part of the scene. It is already a felony that you "consider to maybe accept" an offer to buy. Keep this in mind, but know that locals have been seen smoking pot in the streets of Huanchacho, Ayacucho and other places.
  • Although Cuzco is, in general, relatively safe, as in any urban area, muggings and petty thefts do occur. Use common sense and you should be fine. Don't wander alone away from the Plaza de Armas late at night. Don't flaunt your valuables around. Be conscious of what is going on around you. For example, be wary if you are approached by people trying to sell you stuff in the streets and try to strike up a long conversation. It's possible that they are distracting you while someone else is pickpocketing you. Only take taxis that are well marked, and if you are taking a taxi alone at night, write down the number and call a friend (or pretend to call a friend if you don't have a phone) saying, so the driver can hear, that you are coming home in taxi #... Also, try not to set yourself apart as a clueless tourist by wearing expensive or flashy clothing or revealing clothing in a particularly conservative region of Peru (the locals do not wear shorts and tank-tops around).

Get Out

Amazing Inca walls at Sacsayhuamán
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Amazing Inca walls at Sacsayhuamán
  • Visit nearby ruins. The largest of these ruins is the amazing Inca Sacsayhuaman (sometimes called Saqsaywaman and Sexy Woman) ruins high above Cuzco. Be careful, as robberies have been reported in mornings and evenings. Other ruins up the road from Sacsayhuaman include Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay. All are accessible with the boleto turistico.
  • Pisac - Visit the colourful market and climb up to the ruins.
  • Ollantaytambo - visit the fortress.
  • Lake Titicaca PeruRail [8] connects Cuzco to Juliaca and Puno ($16.66 Tourist/Backpacker class, $119 Andean Explorer class, both one-way), and the journey is one of the most spectacular rail journeys in the world, passing both through amazing scenery and the middle of small towns. The journey should take 10 hours, but there are often delays. The 'scenic stop' included at La Raya is a bit of a waste of time, though it's included anyway. There is a bus that travels to Luke Titicaca, which is significantly cheaper, and takes less time.
Machu Picchu
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Machu Picchu
  • Machu Picchu - the atmospheric ruin perched below the Andes and above the jungle. For the best experience, walk there on the Inca Trail, which is certainly worth the excercise! There are numerous tour companies which organise such trips, costing around 130 USD with all travel costs and a one night stay in Agues Callentes. Why not, on the way back instead of taking the bus, try taking the train? They are more expensive and it will take longer. A one-way trip on PeruRail [9] costs $59.50 for Vistadome class, and $41.65 Backpacker class. This journey takes about 4 hours if travelling the whole way, but most people coming back from Machu Picchu get off at Poroy and take a connecting bus to Cuzco. This saves a about 45 minutes, as after this stop, the train does some strange backwards/forwards manouevers to cross a steep slope.

There are several smaller bus terminals in Cuzco that travel to other destinations around the Sacred Valley of the Incas:

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!


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