From Wikitravel

Dharamsala is a hill station in Himachal Pradesh, in addition to being the headquaters of the Tibetan Government in Exile, and a very popular hang-out for the backpacker crowd in India. The town is divided into two distinct areas that are seperated by a ten minute (9 km.) bus/jeep ride (7 rupees): Lower Dharamsala, a small and busy typical Indian town, which, other than for the bus station, is of little of interest to the tourist, and Upper Dharamasala, which is known more commonly as McLeod Ganj. This is the location of the Tibetan community and is the center of tourist activity. Unless specifically stated, all listings in this article refer to McLeod Ganj.

Contents 1 Understand 2 Get in 2.1 By Bus 2.2 By Train 3 Get around 4 See 5 Do 6 Learn 6.1 Courses 7 Work 7.1 Volunteer 8 Buy 9 Eat 10 Drink 11 Sleep 11.1 Budget 11.2 Mid range 11.3 Splurge 12 Get out 12.1 Near by

Understand

Get in

By Bus

Most people come to Dharamsala by bus. It has good connections with other parts of North India, although the journeys are often slow due to the narrow winding roads in the hills. Direct private buses run from Delhi. The government bus stop is located in Lower Dharamsala, and taxis can be hired to go up to McLeod Ganj (R100). Many private bus companies are available for travel to Manali, DheraDhun and Delhi; tickets are about 400 - 550 rupess depending on the time of year.

By Train

Change at Pathankot to single gauge line to Kangra. Kangra is 18 km from McLeod Ganj.

Get around

McLeod Ganj is small enough to be navigated on foot. Autorickshaws can be hired to go up the hill if you head down to the Government.

See

Do

• Visit the 17th Karmapa at his temporary residence at the Gyuto Tantric University in the town of Sidhbari near McLeod Ganj. For detailed information, check the Kagyu school's official web site: Kagyu Office

Learn

Courses

Courses range from Yoga, Meditation, Reiki, Tibetan and Indian cooking classes, Tibetan speaking classes and Thai massage. All courses include vegetarian meals, and are offered at the following meditation centers:

• Buddha Hall - Reiki with Usha - Usha is a grandmaster Reiki teacher who runs courses in Reiki (I,II,III and Master) as well as Tarot and Crystal Healing from Buddha hall in Bagsu, (Opposite the German Bakery). She is a very flexible and compassionate teacher, highly recommended!
• Vipassana - Situated near Dharamkot, offers a 10 days meditation course. You need to register in advance at their web-site. The course will teach you the Vipassana technique, you have to be in complete silence, and you are provided 2 meals and very light dinner. The course is free, you can leave a donation if you please.
• Z-Meditation - http://www.zmeditation.com/ - 5 days meditation course in McLeod Ganj (go down the stairs at Yongling school, it's the big green building). The courses is much more varied than Vipassana - it includes a few techniques on meditation, some with painting, some about subjects related to your own life, and also 2 hours of daily Yoga, 3 meals, a sieats and a drinks break. You also have to be silent.
• Tushita Meditation - 10 days meditation with Buddhist teachings. Lunch is included. Silence is only half a day.
• Asho Institute in Bhagsu Village also provide courses in Ayurvedic nutrition and Tai-Chi.

Work

Volunteer

There are some opportunities to volunteer while you are here. Teaching English and computers are most common options. There are a few institutions for benefit of exile Tibetans and local Indians. There are adds on billboards and also in the free local magazine "Contact". There is also an option to come and talk to Tibetans to help them improve their English, while getting to know each other's culture and personal story. Go to the organized meetings of one of the organizations and don't accept requests to privately tutor monks that address you on the streets; some of them will ask you to be their sponsor after a few days.

For long term options (3 months or more) ask at the LHA office in the middle of the town. Or contact Volunteer Tibet through their web page at www.volunteertibet.org

Buy

Many Tibetan things can be bought in Dharamsala - woollen shawls, prayer flags, prayer wheels, Tibetan jewellery & trinkets etc. There are co-operatives set up to help the Tibetan people, though a lot of what they sell is not made locally and heavily marked up.

Eat

McLeod Ganj is a great place for eating, and the town has an abundance of restaurants, especially in the mid to upper range that cater to foreign tourists.

• Snow Lion Restaurant. Near the main bus stand. This is a popular place for both Tibetans and Tourists alike.
• Malabar Restarant. Also near the bus stand. The best Indian food in McLeod Ganj.
• Moon Peak Coffee. The best coffee in town, located on Temple road half way to the Dalai Lama's main temple. The owners also run a photo lab next door by the same name. Sit and have a coffee while whaiting for your photos to print.
• Om Hotel. Right near the main bus square in Mcleod Ganj, this family run restaurant/hotel has great tibetan food, and is very cheap. Great view and atmosphere as well!
• Rewa Cafe. Down the hill on Jogiwara Road, five minutes past the post office. Best Tibetan food in town.
• Momo Cafe. Best momos in town. The chai is also particularly good.
• JJI's Cafe. Delicious Special Muesli. Sometimes they play Bob Dylan.
• Nick's Italian Kitchen. Great Italian food at cheap prices. Very popular.
• Lung-Ta. Japanese food. Non-profit, proceeds go towards helping to free political prisoners.
• Taste of India. Best indian food in town. The owner runs 3 day indian cooking courses from the restaurant. She also owns a south indian restaurant on the Bagsu Rd (one of the last shops in Mcleod on the way to Bagsu) which serves simple but very tastey southern dishes.

Dharamsala is a good place to try Tibetan food

• momos (dumplings filled with meat or vegetables)
• thugpa (noodle soup)
• yak butter tea (salty tea churned with butter, not as good as the real stuff though)

Drink

Although there are a couple bars, chai is the beverage of choice here, there are also a couple tea shop hang-outs, and many of the restaurants are pleasant places to sit over a cup of tea.

Sleep

McLeod Ganj has a wide selection of accommodation, most of which is located close to the main bus stop. Just walk around. It is easy to find somewhere suitable.

For long-term stays, head down the Yongling stairs on Jogiwara Road; there are about a dozen cheap good places down there, with great views.

There is also 2 smaller towns within walking distance, Bagsu and Darmakat. They are quieter than Mcleod (Mcleod usually has alot of beeping cars/bikes/rickshaws pushing through the streets especially Bagsu rd) and have a wide array of cool places to stay and courses to do!

Budget

• Snow Lion Guest House. Great budget place right in the center of town.
• Green Hotel - nice people, good breakfasts.
• Tibetan Ashoka Guesthouse - very clean and comfortable rooms at reasonable prices.
• Rainbow House - Very clean and affordable, with hot water.

Mid range

• Bhagsu Hotel - at the upper end of the price range with carpeted rooms and en-suite bathrooms. Has a pleasant garden with lawns and flowers.

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Splurge

Get out

The many tourist agents' offices sell tickets for deluxe coaches going to Delhi, Shimla and Manali. The small bus station in McLeod Ganj sells tickets for state buses leaving from Lower Dharamasala as well as from McLeod Ganj.

Near by

If you are looking for a quieter place try Bhagsu or Dharamkhot. Both are very close to McLeod Ganj. However most courses and volunteer options are at McLeod.

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