Dili Travel Guide
From Wikitravel
This charming, lazy little seaside city suddenly found itself taking the role of national capital when East Timor became the world's newest independent country in May 2002.
The city lies on the northern coast of East Timor, squeezed along the narrow plains between the central mountains which run the length of the Timor and the Ombai Strait.
Dili is also capital of a district with the same name. The district includes the surrounding areas as well as Atauro Island.
Contents |
Understand
Dili was the classic backwater during colonial times, being the main city of a remote colony in a remote part of the world. However, this heritage left Dili with a distinct Portuguese flavour and together with Macau, is probably the furthest east where you can savour genuine Portuguese food and wine. Its streets still bear Portuguese names (which were surprisingly retained during the Indonesian rule) and there are enough pretty buildings left from the colonial era to make Dili one of the most unique cities in South East Asia.
The city suffered badly from the post-referendum carnage in 1999 where almost 75% of all buildings were burnt down. Departing Indonesian troops and the mobs they sponsored ripped out all infrastructure and utilities, leaving it without electricity and telephones. Dili has since recovered remarkably, although one can still see many gutted buildings.
Dili has sort of a colonial core, with its waterfront and a square bordered on the south side by the impressive Government Buildings. The commercial areas of Lecidere lies to the east, Colmera is to the west and the former Mercado Municipal (Central Market) is to the south. Further west is the affluent Motael area with its church, Farol lighthouse and several seafront pubs and restaurants. The eastern part of Dili is dominated by high hills that go all the way out to sea to form Cape Fatucama which is crowned by the Rio de Janeiro-style Jesus Christ statue.
Get in
By plane
Nicolau Lobato International Airport (formerly Comoro Airport) (DIL) is located 6km west of Dili. Indonesian carrier Merpati has daily flights from Denpasar, Bali as well as regular flights from Kupang, West Timor. Australian regional carrier Air North operates at least one flight a day from Darwin, Australia. As there is hardly any competition, fares are high. There are no domestic flights.
Getting there/away: Taxi drivers ask for at least US$5 for the trip into Dili. You could try bargaining. You can also walk out to the main road - which is the main road linking Dili with Batugade on the Indonesian border - to catch a mikrolet.
By car
Dili is well linked by road from the Indonesian border at Mota'ain, near Batugade, which lies about 115km west.
A reasonably good road also links Dili with Baucau, East Timor's second largest city 123km west. The road continues west to Los Palos and Tutuala.
Southwards, a road climbs up the mountains which run the length of the island of Timor, passing the hill town of Maubisse, on the way to the southern coast.
Cars can be hired from Rentlo and Thrifty.
By bus
Buses fan out from Dili to various parts of the country. Most leave very early in the morning, and would do the "keliling" (going around town to scout for more passengers) before actually leaving Dili.
- West of Dili
Buses leave for Batugade and the Indonesian border at Mota'ain. US$3. The journey is about 3 hours.
Buses also go to Maliana and Ermera.
- East of Dili
Several buses leave for Baucau early in the morning from Rua Quinze de Outubro just south of the stadium near the Mercado Municipal roundabout. US$2, 3 hours. These buses can also be caught at Becora, the suburb to the east of Dili.
By boat
Dili is no longer a port of call for Indonesia's Pelni ships. There are also no regular boats to Australia.
Get around
Plenty of taxis shuttle passengers around the city for US$1 (although locals pay less). Further journeys, such as to Areia Branca beach and Cape Fatucama will cost more.
Mikrolets (vans converted to take passengers) also run from near the Mercado Municipal to Comoro, Becora and other suburbs of Dili and even further. They cost 20 cents per ride.
Orientation
In the Centre of Dili is the Government Secretariat Palacio Do Governo (previously the UN Building). This serves as a good reference point as many of Dili’s streets are unnamed. You won’t miss this building – it is by far the largest in town!
If you are on the road directly in front of the East Timor Government Building, Palacio Do Governo, face away from the airport (towards the Jesus Statue) you will see a large white building and the Post Office is at the end of that building. Stamps for letters/postcards to Australia are US$1. As many of the streets are unnamed (making mail delivery impossible) you may want to get a post box. It’s fine to share them with others. Next to the post office is one of 2 Timor Telecom offices which sell sim cards for $20.00 this includes $10.00 worth of calls.
See
- Visit the Statue of Jesus that stands on a headland to the east of Dili. Rumour has it that, when the (mainly Muslim) Indonesians built the statue as a gift to the (mainly Christian) East Timorese, they designed it so that Jesus would be facing towards Jakarta. The statue is about 20 metres tall and stands on a globe of earth. The route from Dili along the beach and up the steps to the Jesus statue is popular with exercising internationals and local fishermen, and passes several niches representing the stations of the cross. The view from the statue across the bay to Dili is spectacular. From Dili, follow the main road east out of town. Taxi drivers will take you there for US$5 but you will need to pay extra to make sure they stick around while you have a look.
Do
- Just down and across the road from the Leader supermarket is a Church that has an English mass on Sunday morning at 10am (and Tetum Masses at other times).
- You can buy VCDs, DVDs & Audio CDs very cheaply. If you are taking a laptop its well worth having software installed.
- Visit Ramalau - the highest mountain in East Timor. You can stay at a place just before the top, and climb up for the dawn (a couple of hours climb). It is a fairly popular thing to do so ask around or ask at the Hotel Dili – they can arrange a great 4WD tour. NB: It is FREEZING at night!
- Visit Jaco Island. Jaco is the Island on the Eastern tip of East Timor. You will need a 4WD (you can hire them) but it is well worth the trip. You drive out to Baucau (a sensational drive – lots of rice paddies etc) and continue on to Tutuala. Ask directions there – you go down a road that is very overgrown after about 1km. The beach is white and the water is clear! Take plenty of food and water because there aren’t any local eateries but you can buy fresh produce very cheaply on the way there (about 10% of what you pay in Dili), but you are just buying them from tables outside people’s houses so it is just a matter of what they have then. Often there are fishermen on the beach and you can purchase fish from them, which they will cook up for you. It is quite expensive, about US$10 per fish and $5 to cook but two fish plus some paw paws feeds 10. The fishermen will paddle you over to Jaco but its again expensive –about US$5 each. Still, it is amazing, a truly unspoilt beach.
- Atauro Island is more easily accessed than the other two destinations, and just beautiful. Atauro has a ferry that goes regularly for about $11.00 return. Chat with someone in a dive company about the best way to get there. You may be able to join a group or get some people together and make up a group and hire a boat (with crew and including lunch and snorkel gear) for a day. It is quite expensive but the water is incredibly clear. There are 2 accommodation options at the Island one is Eco Lodge. Remember to book in advance to save disappointment.
Learn
If you are on the road directly in front of the East Timor Government Building, Palacio Do Governo, face away from the airport (towards the Jesus Statue).
If you walk up the left hand road, about half way up on your right is Dili Cold Store supermarket, then you will find the Xanana reading room – a great place to know. There is a café at the back and inside is a small library (with English books), a video collection and documentaries about ET (with comfy chairs and a video so you can watch them there, and drink tea etc from the café!) and a book exchange. The book exchange is great – an eclectic mix to choose from with the policy “bring a book and $1 and take away a book, or any book for $2”. They also sell lovely postcards and have internet access.
Work
Official working hours are generally 8.30 to 5.30, with a break for lunch from 12.00 to 1.30. Because most people go home for lunch, the actual lunch break is often 12.00 to 2.00! Some organizations work on Saturday mornings, but generally the weekends are free.
Public Holidays
East Timor National holidays Law signed 19/07/05
New Year’s Day – 1 Jan
International Labour Day - 1 May
Restoration of Independence - 20 May
Popular Consultation Day - 30 August
All Saints Day - 1 November
All Souls day - 2 November
National Day of Youth Santa Cruz Massacre - 12 November
Independence Proclomation Day - 28 November
National Heroes day - 7 December
Day of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception - 8 December
Christmas Day - 25 December
Moveable Holidays 2006 2007
Good Friday - 14 April 6 April
60 days After Easter, Feast of Corpus Christi 15 June 7 June
End of Ramadan, Idul Fitri - 24 October 13 October
Muslim Calender, Idul Adha - 31 December 20 December
Tolerance Days ( national commemorative days )
International Childrens Day - 1 June
Falintil day - 20 August
Mothers day - 3 November
International Human Rights day - 10 November
Moveable Days
Ash Wednesday – (46 days before easter) 1 March 21 February
Holy Thursday – (thursday before easter) 13 April 5 April
Ascension Day – (40 days after easter) 25 May 17 May
Buy
US Dollars are the common currency in East Timor and all transactions are in dollars.
There is an ANZ bank branch in Dili, and there are two ANZ automatic teller machines – one at the bank, and one in Leader supermarket on the road to the airport. The one in Leader doesn’t usually work. You don’t need an account with ANZ (in fact, there doesn’t seem to be any advantage to having one) but you do need a bank card which will allow you to use the ATM (eg Visa). The use of these machines can be expensive however – ANZ charges USD$5 per withdrawal.
In addition you cannot transfer money from an ANZ overseas account to an account with the ANZ in Dili without incurring a USD$25 fee. It is best to contact your bank in your home country and seek advice about the cheapest and most efficient way to transfer money between accounts.
Eat
Budget
Start at the East Timor Government Building, Palacio Do Governo. Head east, away from the airport. If you walk up the left hand road, about half way up on your right is Dili Cold Store supermarket.
If you head out on the road towards the airport you will find the Comoro market (one of the two big markets in Dili). It is a little bit hard to find as it is set back from the road. If you are travelling from the UN building it is about a 20 minute walk – if you reach the Leader supermarket on the right you have gone too far! The markets are amazing. When you first arrive they look grimy and the place is covered in dust in the dry season and very muddy in the wet, but if you go inside you will find fruit, vegies, coffee etc all piled in little piles (this is the measurement for purchases – around 10c for leafy vegies and 50c for everything else). If you live with a Timorese family it is wonderful to go there and bring home little treats like eggs and condensed milk, bananas and potatoes as they are usually beyond the everyday budget (rice and green vegetables are the staple diet of East Timorese).
The Leader supermarket has lots of western treats including chocolate and toilet paper!
Mid-range
Splurge
Drink
Sleep
There are plenty of hotels in Dili, ranging from cheap and basic (living in a container, with a window and a fan if you’re lucky, probably about US$5 per night) to less cheap and less basic (air-con and cable TV, probably about US$40 per night).
Some cafes around town have ads for accommodation available, but generally the only way to find out where there are places available is to ask around. There are furniture stores around, but if you can find somewhere that is furnished it will save you a lot of hassle. If you get friendly with someone who works for the government they may be able to help you find some furniture. There is one Real Estate Agent in Dili near the post office at Central Hotel who has a number of accommodation options.
There are quite a few internationals in Dili who live in hotels or guest houses permanently. Other alternatives include:
- ‘Kos’ style accommodation, where you get your own room and usually a bathroom, living with an East Timorese family; meals are usually shared with the family. The best way to find out about these places is to ask East Timorese friends or work colleagues. Rent is generally about US$150 per month. Advantages include learning Tetum quickly, getting more exposure to East Timorese culture and spending time with an East Timorese family. Disadvantages can include lack of personal space, and no cooking facilities.
- Share accommodation with other internationals – there are plenty of shared houses of NGO people and UN people. The house will generally be owned by an East Timorese family who might live next door. A lot of people employ someone to help with cooking/cleaning/washing. Most houses do not have washing machines! Most do not have air-conditioning either – you might want to invest in a fan. Share houses are sometimes advertised in places like the Dili Dive Centre, but word of mouth is the best way to find out. If you are looking for an empty house to rent, again, it’s probably best to ask East Timorese friends or colleagues. Remember that places might not have furniture/a fridge etc, and purchasing these things can involve quite a big outlay initially. Rent for this sort of accommodation is generally between US$150 and US$200 per month.
You can arrange for cleaners to come twice a week for about $25. As well as getting your house and clothes cleaned, this also represents an opportunity for making friends with locals. Also, having someone around the house during the day when you are not there keeps the place a little more secure. If you can live with a Timorese family it would be ideal for learning more about the local language and culture but if not, get to know your neighbours – walking around your area and talking to people can go a long way.
Budget
Mid-range
Splurge
- Hotel Esplanada, Avenida da Portugal (Beach Rd), Phone: +670 3313 088, Fax: +670 3313 087, E-mail: admin@hotelesplanada.com, [1].
Contact
By net
There are a number of commercial places where you can access the internet such as the business centre at many of the hotels. Globel Net has Internet $4.00 per hour they also have skype so bring your own head sets.
By phone
There are virtually no landlines in East Timor. It’s a very good idea to bring a mobile phone handset, make sure you have it unlocked in your home country first otherwise it can cost up to $30.00 to have it unlocked here, and then buy a new sim-card from Timor Telecom (US$20.00 including about $10 worth of calls). Local calls are pretty cheap, and an SMS within East Timor costs 200 cents. Calls to Australia are about 50 cents US per minute, or 40 cents off peak (between 8pm and 8am and all day Sunday). Calls from Australia are quite expensive – about $3.50 per minute.
By post
There are no street addresses in Dili (most streets don’t have a name) and there is no delivery of mail to houses. If you want to receive mail, you need to use a post office box at the central post office. Packages from Australia generally take about 2 weeks. It’s important that people write ‘via Darwin, Australia’ on the address, otherwise letters tend to go via Jakarta, Singapore or even Lisbon. Letters/packages have been known to take up to one and a half years to arrive, and occasionally disappear altogether, although this is the exception rather than the rule.
Stay safe
The biggest risk in Dili is probably that of being involved in a traffic accident. It’s a good idea to bring a quality helmet in case you get a bike, or to use when riding on the back of other peoples’ bikes.
Basic precautions will ensure personal safety in East Timor. It’s generally considered not safe for a ‘malai’ (foreigner) woman (and probably a malai man, too) to walk around alone after dark. There have been a few reported incidents of people riding in taxis after dark being robbed. There have been a few malai houses broken into overnight. Generally, though, it feels very safe to walk around Dili during the day – there are always lots of people around.
Cope
You can generally get everything you need in Dili, with only a couple of exceptions, although some items are more expensive. Some of the things you might want to bring are:
- Bring some US cash and Travellers Cheques. You will need $35.00USD for your initial visa on arrival at the airport. It’s also worth ensuring with your bank that you will be able to access money from your account using your card in Dili.
- If you wear contact lenses DEFINITELY bring lens solution. It cannot be bought in East Timor. Also bring a spare pair of glasses and/or leave a copy of your prescription at home in case you need a new pair sent over.
- Laptop – good for work and for watching DVDs at home. You can get most new releases before they come out in Australia for about US$1.50. Make sure you have DVD software installed. You can also walk into most internet cafes and plug your laptop in to surf the net, email, download virus definitions etc. If you want to use your laptop at work, make sure it has a network card in it. It is a good idea also to bring with you a USB Memory stick. Floppy discs die here from the heat and you can’t download or access important information on them. You can buy Memory sticks here also for around usd$50.00.
- You can buy clothes in Dili but as most Timorese are a lot smaller than your average Westerner it can be hard to find the right size. You're best off bringing as much as you need with you. Also bed linen and towels etc are quite expensive. It’s a good idea to bring a set of sheets and make sure you bring your bathers!
- If you like coffee, bring a plunger or a stove top espresso making machine – there is great coffee in East Timor!
- Radio – at the moment East Timor can get Radio National and BBC. There are also local radio stations broadcasting on FM such as Radio Rakembia
- Books are hard to come by here so I would recommend bringing some with you. You can also order them off the net and have sent here.
- If you have a swag with a mosquito net or dome it would be handy for when you want to travel out into the districts.
- Definitely if you intend to ride a motorbike (scooter) bring your own helmet, you can buy them in East Timor but they are quite flimsy.
With regard to dress rules there are no hard and fast rules. Dili is more liberal than the districts, where people will expect women to wear clothes which cover their shoulders (ie not sleeveless) and trousers or a skirt below the knee. Men never go shirtless, and East Timorese men never wear shorts (although quite a lot of internationals do). Generally, it’s better to err on the conservative side. The most respectable clothing for young males are jeans with a buttoned through short-sleeved collar. There are a number of clothing shops in Dili but they are made for Timorese sizes so it is generally hard to find anything in a size bigger than an Australian 10.
Dili is REALLY hot all year round, but it can get very cold overnight in the central districts – so make sure you bring something warm. It’s a good idea to bring a solid pair of sandals, as well as some thongs and runners.
Dinner can sometimes be a bit dressier and most people in offices come to work dressed smart casual.
Get out
Recommended Beach: 'Pasir Putih' ("white sand"), about 3 km east of Dili (under the Christ Statue).
Diving and snorkelling: "Dive Timor Lorosae" offers trips to Atauro island for diving and snorkelling. Website: http://www.divetimor.com/
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