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Essaouira Travel Guide

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Africa : North Africa : Morocco : Essaouira
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Essaouria (الصويرة) is a coastal city in Morocco.

Contents

Get in

  • A whole grand taxi from Marrakech runs about 500dh, or 90dh per place. Supratours runs buses from the Marrakech train station into the Essaouira Supratours station, just down the street from the beach.

Get around

The walled centre of town is pedestrianised.

See

Do

  • The beach dominates the Essaouirans' leisure time. Although the strong wind and currents makes relaxed tanning and swimming a little difficult at times, it is perfect for windsurfing. With good winds for most days of the year, Essaouira is a windsurfer's paradise. The best spots are reported to be Essaouira Bay, Sidi Kaouki, Cape Sim and Mouley Bouzertoune. Equipment can be hired from the Windsurfing Club on the beach front.
  • The nearby town of Diabat and its beach is allegedly where Jimi Hendrix once spent some time. Even if the stories aren't true, this long, windswept beach with its ruined fort, about 5km from Essaouira, is a lovely place to walk to. Diabat is an empty, concrete Berber village that is practically devoid of attractions except the Hendrix ruin and a Hendrix Cafe. It's best visted in the early morning via taxi and then return to Essouiara via a short and very romantic walk on the beach past the castle in the sand of Hendrix fame.

Buy

Essaouira's craftsmen are renowned for their woodwork and lacquerware. Intricately inlaid boxes, chessboards and curios can be found for good prices in the city's hundreds of shops; however, beware that extensive deforestation is taking place in the area due to these woods not being replanted. Artwork of all kinds can be had here.

Eat

Although Essaouira is on the sea, fish are quite expensive. Fishermen sell their catch through market hall and you can get it cooked in small stands nearby. Prices are negotiable. A cheaper option is to buy Harira (a spicy soup) for 2-5DH or sandwich (i.e. at Blue fasade for 10-20DH, walking at the street from fish stands to the medina). There are many reasonable restaurants and cafes on the main streets and squares. Upscale restaurants worth a mention are Taros (2, rue de la Sqala Tel: 044 47 64 07) which combines a French-Moroccan restaurant, a gallery and a terrace bar with live local music and "5" (rue Youssef el fassi) for its elegant ex-pat vibe.

  • Patisserie Driss - close to the main square is a great place for cakes and snacks

Drink

Mint tea is available for about 6DH all over the town. Some of the hotels have licensed bars, but it's hard to beat the terrace bar of the Taros (2 Rue de la Sqala)for its view over the lively Place Moulay el Hassan and the harbour.

Sleep

  • Hotel Smara, 26 Rue de la Skala, Tel: 044-472334, is one of the cheapest (and therefore most popular) hotels in town, so you may need to book ahead during peak season. The spartan roof terrace has nice views over the cannons used in the opening sequence of Orson Welles Othello. Singles / doubles with shared bath start from Dh 47 / Dh 96.
  • Riad Malaika, 17 Rue Zayanne, Tel: 044.473861, Email: riadmalaika@yahoo.fr, provides an authentic Riad stay. This former Moroccan home has been beautifully restored and converted and is in the center of town. The staff is extremely hospitable and courteous. It has a beautiful terrace rooftop perfect for private lounging. Rooms are charming and tastefully decorated and run from 500dh to 1000dh, including breakfast (discounts available in the low season and for longer stays).
  • Right on the beach, Sofitel Thalassa Mogador, Tel: 47 23 34, will be happy to indulge your every whim, for a hefty price. Singles / doubles start at Dh 1400 / Dh 1850 during low season but can rocket up to Dh 1890 / Dh 2430 during the peak new year period. Luxury suites are also available and there's a Sofitel-branded health spa next door for those in urgent need of a hydrotherapy session and facial.
  • If you're looking for longer term or apartment accommodation, try Essaouira Apartments, Jack's Kiosk, 1 Place Moulay Hassan, Tel: 044-475538 (Fax: 044-476901, Email: apartment@essaouira.com).

Stay Safe

Many travellers seem to suffer from minor stomach upsets in Essaouira, no matter how carefully they eat. The town is often covered in a fine mist as Atlantic breakers crash onto the rocks below the ramparts. Closer inspection reveals a large amount of untreated sewage being discharged into the sea here. Possibly this sewage in the air is a factor amongst the high incidence of stomach upsets.

Get out

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