From Wikitravel

Iraq [1] is a country in the Middle East. It lies at the north end of the Persian Gulf and has a small (58 km) coastline in the southeast of the country. It is surrounded by Iran to the east, Kuwait to the south, Saudi Arabia to the southwest, Jordan to the west, Syria to the northwest, and Turkey to the north.

Contents 1 Regions 2 Cities 3 Other destinations 4 Understand 5 Get in 5.1 By plane 5.2 By train 5.3 By car 5.3.1 From Turkey 5.3.2 From Jordan 5.3.3 From Kuwait 5.4 By bus 6 Get around 6.1 By car 7 Talk 8 Buy 9 Eat 10 Drink 11 Sleep 12 Learn 13 Work 14 Stay safe 15 Stay healthy 16 Respect 17 Contact

Regions

• Baghdad (بغداد)
• Salah ad Din (صلاح الدين)
• Diyala
• Wasit
• Maysan
• Al Basrah (البصرة)
• Dhi Qar (ذي قار)
• Al Muthanna
• Al Qadisyah (القادسية)
• Babil (بابل)
• Al Karbala (كربلاء)
• An Najaf (النجف)
• Al Anbar (الأنبار)
• Ninawa (نينوى)
• Dahuk (دهوك)
• Arbil (أربيل)
• At Ta'mim
• As Sulaymaniyah (السليمانية)

Cities

• Arbil (أربيل)
• Baghdad (بغداد)
• Basra (بصرى)
• Dahuk
• Fallujah (الفلّوجة)
• Karbala (كربلاء)
• Kirkuk (كركوك)
• Mosul (موصل)
• Najaf (نجف)
• Nassiriya (ناصرية)
• Osiraq
• Samarra (سامراء)
• Ar Ramadi (الرمادي)
• Ar Rutba (الرطبة)
• As Sulaymaniyah (السليمانية)
• Tikrit (تكريت)
• Umm Qasr (أم قصر)

Other destinations

• Babylon (بابل)
• Nineveh (نينوى)
• Sumer (سومر)
• Ur (أور)

Understand

The area where Iraq is today was the birthplace of many of the Earth's oldest civilizations, including the Babylonians and the Assyrians. A part of the Ottoman Empire from 1534, the Treaty of Sèvres brought the area under British control in 1918. Iraq gained independence in 1932. In 1968 the socialist Ba'ath Party took control of Iraq and Saddam Hussein came to power eleven years later.

The next twenty-five years took a grinding toll on the country. A long war with neighboring Iran in the 1980s cost hundreds of thousands of lives and billions of dollars. The invasion of Kuwait in 1990 and subsequent Gulf War caused further casualties, followed by civil war inside the country and a decade of international sanctions.

Iraq was invaded in 2003 by a U.S.-led coalition of forces, principally including the United Kingdom, Poland and Australia, who removed Saddam Hussein from power. Although some transfer of power to an Iraqi interim government has occurred, the country remains occupied by 200,000 US and coalition soldiers. Rebuilding on a massive scale inside larger cites has occurred, thanks to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. However, ongoing attacks from opponents of the U.S. and/or the presence of its forces in Iraq have made it particularly dangerous, especially inside the "Sunni Triangle".

Get in

All visitors to Iraq, except those from countries that are members of the Arab League, require a visa for entry. Currently, contract and military personnel working for the U.S. Department of Defense are exempt from this visa policy, as long as they present a valid Common Access Card (CAC card) issued by the Department of Defense.

For those entering the country without a visa, one can be purchased at most border crossings for US$80. The border crossing from Turkey to Iraq (Silopi/Zakho) did not charge for a visa as of March 2006. If you intend to acquire a visa at your port of entry, be prepared for long waits, and bring plenty of documentation about who you are and what your business in Iraq is. Letters on company or government letterhead are preferred. Visas can be acquired in advance at the Iraqi embassies in London, Paris, and Washington (D.C.).

By plane

Baghdad International Airport (BIAP) (formerly known as Saddam International Airport) (IATA: BGW; ICAO: ORBS, now ORBI) is about 16 km from the center of Baghdad.

The civilian side of BIAP continues to grow every week. Currently, Royal Jordanian Airlines (RJ) operates two roundtrip flights daily from their base at the Queen Alia International Airport (IATA: AMM) in Amman. RJ does not accept reservations for these flights from outside of Jordan unless travelling to Jordan on an RJ flight. Any travel agent in Jordan can book flights to BIAP.

Prior to Operation Desert Storm in 1991, Saddam Hussein instructed the staff at Iraqi Airways (IA) to store the entire fleet of the national airline of Iraq in neighboring countries. After the 2003 invasion, some of those planes were retrieved from storage in Syria and Jordan and are now flying again under the Iraqi Airways name. The IA reservation system completely lacks automation; everything is done by hand, including boarding passes, ticket issuances, seat assignments, reservations, and flight manifests. IA does not currently hold an FAA airworthiness certificate, so they only fly to airports in the region around Iraq, currently Turkey, Lebanon, Jordan, and United Arab Emirates. Due to the lack of automation, all tickets for IA must be booked through a travel agent familiar with bookings to Iraq, and paid in cash.

In addition to Iraqi Airways, Turkish Airways has begun operating flights between Istanbul (IATA: IST) and BIAP several times per week. Flights from Dubai to Erbil are now in operation twice weekly, via Kurdistan Airlines.

Additional Services to the city of Van, Turkey are offered by Turkish airlines from most western cities via Istanbul, from here a taxi will take you to the border for $35 - $200 depending on your bargaining skills!

For those working for Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) in Iraq, there are two charter airlines operating into BIAP. Skylink and AirServ operate frequent flights. Travel on either of these services requires sponsorship by your NGO to get you onto an approved traveller list maintained by each. Schedules and services can be irregular, and change frequently.

The civilian side of the airport is under control of the Iraqi government. The military side is still controlled by the U.S. military, as well as all Iraqi airspace above FL100. Take-offs and landings at BIAP are controlled by the Iraqi Ministry of Transportation, under the advisement of the U.S. military. Several critical pieces of Air Traffic Control gear have not been turned on, and the result of this is that BIAP can only accommodate Visual Flight Rule (VFR) landings, not instrument landings. Because of this, the frequent sandstorms that hit the area can obscure visibility and cause flights to be turned away. It is not unusual for commercial flights to make it all the way to BIAP, and then turn around and return to their origin due to limited visibility on the runway. To protect against the extreme danger of ground-based attacks, incoming civilian flights descend from cruising altitudes in a tight spiral within protected BIAP airspace.

When departing at BIAP, be prepared for long, disorderly, and excessively slow lines wherever you go. If you are not working in Iraq on a government contract, your entrance to the airport grounds about three or four miles from the airport terminal will require you and your vehicle to wait in line to be searched. These security checkpoints can take from two to three hours to process through. The best strategy is to find accommodations somewhere within the BIAP area of control on the day prior to your flight so that you aren't subjected to the long wait and end up missing your flight.

All airlines operating services at BIAP have a 100% bag matching policy. All bags, whether carry-ons or checked luggage, are lined up on the tarmac next to the aircraft. Each individual passenger must physically touch and claim their bags before a baggage handler and security personnel will match it and then load it into the hold. Any bags left on the tarmac after the boarding process is complete are not loaded and are taken away from the terminal area to a secure facility for disposal.

By train

There was a weekly train from the Turkish town of Gazientep to Baghdad, but it is no longer operational.

By car

Cars can be the most dangerous method of travel into the country. On reaching the border it is advisable to leave your taxi/rental car, for an armored 4x4, these are available for hire, with an armed guard if required, from the British security company GENRIC [2] for £300 ($500) approx.

From Turkey

Driving in from Turkey is the best method of entry into the Northern part of the country, colloquially known as Kurdistan. This area of the country is fairly safe, at least compared to the rest of the country. Border police and locals will advise you which cities are safe to travel in (Zakho, Dohuk, Erbil, etc.), and will warn you away from specific cities (such as Mosul or Baghdad).

From Diyarbakir, Turkey you will drive south east to Zakho, Iraq. It is best to take a previously arranged taxi, the average cost of this taxi ride is $150 American dollars and most of the drivers only speak Kurdish or Arabic. You will often switch taxis in Silopi about five minutes from the Iraqi border, or you will change cars about 70km from the border and continue on from there. The taxi driver will then take care of all your paperwork at the border. This involves your driver running from building to building getting paperwork stamped and approved. You must have a photocopy of your passport for the Turkish section of the border, which they require that you leave with them.

At this point you will finish driving across the border crossing into Iraq. Your taxi driver will then take you to the Iraqi immigration and customs section. All persons and vehicles entering Iraq must be searched for contraband by the customs officers, and their vehicles are registered and pay some sort of stamp tax. Without this stamp tax, it is illegal for a non-Iraqi vehicle to purchase gas at any of the state-run gas stations all over the country. After paying any import duties to customs and receiving the vehicle stamp, the immigration officers will check your passport and stamp it if you have a visa. Additionally, at some land border crossings, your fingerprint and/or photo will be taken. As of March 2006, there was no visa fee at this border crossing.

At this point, you will be at the border taxi stand, a few kilometers outside of the city of Zakho, and may need to hire another taxi to get to Zakho's city center (5 Dinars). For the taxi ride from the Turkish city where you changed cars to Zakho, it's about $20 US dollars. This is a safe place to meet your friends or to charter a taxi into another part of the country. Enjoy some tea while waiting.

From Jordan

For land crossings from Jordan, be prepared for a long ride. The trip through the eastern Jordanian desert is much like a moonscape. The journey from Amman to Baghdad can take anywhere from 10-15 hours. You will depart Amman between 5am and 10am, and arrive at the border crossing about four hours later. The border crossing can take anywhere from an hour and a half (on a very good day) to more than five or six hours. Entering Iraq usually takes about half as much time as leaving Iraq. The Jordanian immigration and customs officers are very finicky about whom they will let in, and they will often shut their side of the border and not allow anyone to enter for unspecified reasons.

The trip from the border to Baghdad is VERY dangerous. The route is full of highway bandits and gangs of thieves that prey upon unprotected travellers. Travelling this route without adequate communications gear or weapons of any kind is STRONGLY DISCOURAGED. Do not make any stops along this route, if traffic becomes stalled for any reason on the highway (other than a possible IED), then it is best to make circles until traffic flows again. Vehicles, especially those that may be occupied by westerners, are subject to attack at any time. Carry extra fuel and plenty of food, and utilize U.S. military checkpoints to rest or stretch your legs.

From Kuwait

Travelling from the Kuwaiti border is just as difficult as crossing from Jordan. The Kuwaiti crossing is even more complicated by the fact that Kuwaiti immigration and customs officers are even more strict than the Jordanians and anything at all can cause them to arbitrarily block your entry or exit. Sneaking into a military convoy can be the safest route in southern Iraq but is very dangerous to do north of about Hillah.

Cars can be purchased relativity cheaply at the Kuwaiti border. Reliable but inconspicuous transportation is a must in Iraq. It is probably best to buy a vehicle that blends in with the other cars on the road. Renaults and Kias along with less familiar Eastern European and Asian brands are common. The majority of Iraqi cars are actually privately owned taxis that are painted orange on the fenders and white everywhere else. BMWs and Mercedes are also seen in Iraq but are less common, especially nice ones, which usually have the steering wheel on the right side. A feasible option for the determined tourist would be to purchase a used BMW with a good engine, beat up the exterior, paint it orange and white, beat it again, scuff it up to produce a slight amount of rust, and one would have a very close approximation of an Iraqi vehicle. Again the key is to blend in, not stick out.

By bus

It is possible to enter Iraq from Jordan by taking a bus from Amman. Other countries may have bus service to Iraq. Third party nationals can also gain entry into Iraq for work purposes; these buses usually depart from Kuwait.

Get around

By car

Driving at night may be a safer alternative to daytime driving, but a few rules to follow:

• Keep your lights off especially if the road is lit. Iraqis think that turning on lights will run down their batteries, and since they don’t do it, you shouldn't either.

• Avoid city centers. Although most Iraqis are asleep by midnight, the few that are awake are almost certainly up to no good.

• Watch for the U.S. military. If you are out late at night and effectively trying to blend in with the locals, you could be mistaken for a hostile/troublemaker.

Talk

Arabic is the national language of Iraq, but English is so commonly spoken there that most travelers will get by in the various shops, markets and cafes. The downside is that speaking English will immediately identify you as an outsider. This is dangerous because of the strong underground network of Iraqis who inform attackers of possible target opportunities.

Buy

You will be able to spend U.S. dollars or Iraqi dinar almost everywhere. Be aware that most people do not like to make change for large bills. Also note that any defects in the bills (creases, ink stamps from banks, tears, etc.) will raise suspicion that you are a counterfeiter. Don't bring old bills with you, either. Carry mostly small bills in the form of Iraqi dinars for daily spending cash. Since the introduction of the new Iraqi dinar, its widespread acceptance and confidence has reduced the prominence of the U.S. dollar, and many shopkeepers are now refusing to accept them. However, most people will still pay large hotel bills or rent payments using U.S. dollars due to the sheer volume of bills required to pay with dinars. The conversion rate fluctuates from day to day and from town to town, but is roughly 1800 dinar to 1 dollar.

Learn the security features of the new dinar and dollar notes; the former Iraqi government was known to be making passable $20, $10, and $5 U.S. notes, and these counterfeiters are apparently still in business.

Eat

See "Stay healthy" for food advisories.

Drink

Alcohol is legal in Iraq but is supposed to only be sold in areas where there are non-Muslims present. Street vendors can usually get alcohol if you really need it, but again this is just asking to be identified as an outsider. Even though many Iraqis drink, this will not help your efforts to blend in.

Sleep

Sleep in the hot summer months can be difficult. Sleeping outside and near flowing water is the most comfortable setting one can find outside of air conditioning.

Learn

Work

Stay safe

Even people who have always lived in Iraq and who are uninvolved with political issues are often subject to kidnapping-for-profit, which can be fatal if a ransom is not paid. The ransom price is very high and few governments will pay it.

Iraq is beset with numerous problems that make travelling risky and difficult. The security situation is perilous in most areas of the country, and continues to deteriorate under continuing terrorist attacks. Resistance to continuing military occupation, U.S. and U.K. forces, and the Iraqi Governing Council makes street warfare, bombings, and other acts of armed violence daily occurrences.

The central third of the country is the most volatile; the northern Kurdish area and southern ports are less dangerous, but only relatively so.

You should always have a weapon with you (handgun, AK-47, etc) and never travel alone. Always travel with a translator/guard, if possible.

Be aware that Iraq has mine fields, do not walk into fields, especially marked ones unless you're absolutely sure that it's safe.

Stay healthy

It is not safe for visitors to drink the water anywhere in Iraq. It is best to always drink bottled water, preferably made by a Western company. It will usually be sold at vendors and large stores, and will be easy to find. Most Iraqi water companies pump their water directly from the Tigris or Euphrates rivers, treat it with ozone, and then filter it into bottles. The taste is often not very good, and those with sensitive systems should not drink it. Many street vendors will offer drinks such as water with a lemon twist, which should be presumed unsafe for foreign travelers.

Drinking the local tea (chai) can be safe for some people since it is brought to a boil before serving, but when in doubt, insist that bottled water be used. Many kinds of water-borne disease, pollution, and infectious agents are not affected by boiling of water, and are still present in the water after boiling.

As a walk past an Iraqi butcher shop will demonstrate, food preparation standards are not the same as in Western countries, and consumption of local food can make a visitor ill. Try to bring your own. As tap water is generally not potable, you should especially avoid uncooked foods.

Should you find your body in the uncomfortable position of rejecting food and water due to something you shouldn't have drank, immediately find someone who speaks Arabic and send them to a local pharmacist and request a product known locally as "InterStop". This works better than any well-known western brands.

Respect

Never show the soles of your feet to others. This is considered very disrespectful by most Iraqis, unless you are in the company of friends. When in the company of friends, it's still best to excuse yourself before putting your feet up in the air with the soles of your feet in the direction of any person.

Don't spit in public or in the direction of others, even when obviously done without malice.

Contact

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