From Wikitravel

Istanbul (Turkish: İstanbul, formerly Constantinople) is the largest (and arguably the most important) city in Turkey. Located on the Bosphorus, the narrow strait between the Black and the Marmara Seas, Istanbul truly bridges Asia and Europe both literally and figuratively. Istanbul's population is variously estimated between 11 and 15 million people, making it also one of the largest cities in Europe.

Contents 1 Understand 1.1 History 1.2 Orientation 2 Get in 2.1 By plane 2.2 By train 2.3 By car 2.4 By bus 2.5 By boat 3 Get around 3.1 By car 3.2 By taxi 3.3 By shared taxi 3.4 By bus 3.5 By boat 3.6 By metro 3.7 By tram 4 See 5 Do 5.1 Hamams 5.2 Walking tours 6 Learn 7 Work 8 Buy 9 Eat 9.1 Budget 9.2 Mid-range 9.3 Splurge 10 Drink 10.1 Cafes 11 Sleep 11.1 Budget 11.2 Mid-range 11.3 Splurge 12 Contact 12.1 Cafés with free wireless internet: 13 Stay safe 14 Stay healthy 15 Cope 16 Get out

Understand

Founded by Constantine the Great in 324 CE on the site of ancient Byzantium (going back to 650 BC), Istanbul was the capital, successively, of the Eastern Roman Empire (324-476), the Byzantine Empire (476-1453) and the Ottoman Empire (1453-1922) - this almost unrivalled heritage, as well as its dynamic modern existence, make Istanbul a fantastic destination for many travellers.

History

Expanding the ancient Greek colony of Byzantium by the order of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, the imperial city of Constantinople was for nearly a thousand years the last remaining outpost of the Roman (later termed Eastern Roman or Byzantine) Empire before finally falling to the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror in 1453, an event often taken to mark the end of the Middle Ages.

Istanbul (as Constantinople) was the capital of Turkey until the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923, when the capital was transferred to Ankara. The name "Istanbul" was adopted officially in 1930.

Orientation

Istanbul is divided in three by the north-south Bosphorus Strait (Istanbul Boğazi), the dividing line between Europe and Asia, the estuary of the Golden Horn (Haliç) bisecting the western part and the Sea of Marmara (Marmara Denizi) forming a boundary to the south. Most sights are concentrated in the old city on the peninsula of Sultanahmet, to the west of the Bosphorus between the Horn and the Sea. Across the Horn to the north are Galata, Beyoğlu and Taksim, the heart of modern Istanbul, while Üsküdar is the major district on the comparatively less-visited Asian side of the city. The Black Sea forms the northern boundary of Istanbul.

Get in

By plane

Planes arrive at the modern Ataturk Airport [1] (IST), about 20 km west of the city centre. From the airport, there are various options for getting into Istanbul: you can take a taxi (about $10-$15 or 30 lira), the express bus service (run by the local airport service called "Havaş", half-hourly, about $5 to Taksim), or by metro to Aksaray and a tram on to Sultanahmet, for 1.3-2.6 YTL (0.88-1.1.74$).

Note that food and drinks at the airport may cost up to five times more than in the city proper. If you are travelling on a budget and plan to spend some time at the airport, it may be wise to take your own meals from town instead of buying them there.

A smaller airport is the Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW) [2], east of the city. Mostly charter flights as well as Euopean low cost carriers operate from here. A Havaş bus connects this airport with Taksim in the city center for about 5$.

By train

International trains from across Europe arrive at the station in Sirkeci, close to Sultanahmet. Asian trains arrive at Haydarpasha station. To get between the two, catch a ferry across the Bosphoros (see Get around).

International Trains: There are daily overnight trains to Sofia (Bulgaria) - continuing to Belgrade (Serbia) and Budapest (Hungary) - as well as Bucarest (Romania). There are also weekly trains to Aleppo (Syria) and Teheran (Iran) from Haydarpasha station.

By car

By bus

Buses and coaches terminate at the colossal Esenler Otogar, about 10 km east of the city center. Courtesy minibuses or taxis will easily get you into the center. The metro also stops at the Otogar. Harem is the major hub for the buses on the Asian side. You can get there by ferry from the European side.

By boat

Get around

By car

Traffic in Istanbul can be manic, expect a stressful drive. If you've arrived by car to Istanbul and don't want to get into an accident, park your car in a safe place and take the public transportation to get around. For a driver from a western country it's easy to get into an accident, because Turkish people drive in a quite different way.

If you go to the Asian side, you have to pay a toll to cross the Bosphorus bridges, although the crossing is free returning to the European side. It is no longer possible to pay cash when crossing the Bosphorus Bridge. If you do not own an electronic payment card (KGS), it is recommended to use the Fatih Sultan Mehmet bridge.

By taxi

Taxis are an easy and cheap way to get around.Start off rate is YTL 1,5 (€ 0,75) and then YTL 0,1 (€ 0,05) for each 1/10 km afterwards.A taxi from Taksim to Sultahmet should cost only a few new liras. Hail any yellow taxi; all rides are metered and tipping is unnecessary. Taxis have a fixed tariff; the night tariff is 50 % more expensive than the daytime. The Night tariff starts at midnight and lasts until 6AM.

By shared taxi

Dolmuş is a shared taxi, which costs more than a city autobus but less than a normal taxi. It's easy to recognize, because also has the yellow painting as taxi and there's a Dolmuş sign on its top. Dolmuşes go along routes as city bus lines but they're more flexible (they may make some short extra stops to drop somebody off); the final destination is shown by a sign behind the front windscreen. If you want the driver to make a stop, you can say İnecek var.(inijek var!) (Someone's getting out.) or Müsait bir yerde.(müsayt bi yerde!) (At a convenient spot.).

By bus

You can take a bus to almost everywhere in Istanbul. One ticket costs approximately €0.80 (1.30 YTL in January 2006), you can buy it from the conductor sitting at the front door. If you stay longer, you may wish to buy an Akbil, which will save time and money on public transport.

As a relatively quick tourist, you will end up using the T4 bus the most. It connects Sultanahmet to Taksim Square (and so to Beyoglu and Istiklal Caddesi, the nightspots). The last bus from Taksim runs at about 11.30pm, though that's not fixed.

• see also on AKBIL in the tram writeup

By boat

Ferries travel between the European and Asian sides of the city. The crossing takes about 20 minutes and costs 1 Yeni Türk Lirasi (New Turkish Lira), and gives great views of the Bosphorous. Be aware that sometimes the ferry when arriving at a dock can bounce off the pier accidently, even on calm days. This can cause people to fall over quite dramatically if they are standing up, so it is advisable to remain seated until the ferry has come to an absolute stop.

Very useful are the fast ferryboats (travelling at 55 kilometres) running from several points, such as the Yenikapi - Yalova one, that allows you (with a connecting bus in Yalova) to be in Bursa centre in less than three hours. Prices are marginally higher and the gain in time is considerable, though the view is not as nice.

• see also on AKBIL in the tram writeup

By metro

Istanbul's metro consists of two lines, the northern line is currently just a short stub connecting Taksim to the northern suburbs.There is also the new line connecting Taksim to Kabatas where you can get on ferries. From the Levent I stop it is a 10 minute walk to Akmerkez,one of many nice malls in İstanbul.The southern line is most useful for visitors, connecting Aksaray (with its connections to the tram line) to Ataturk Airport, via the Otogar.

• see also on AKBIL in the tram writeup

By tram

A tram service serves Sultanahmet, the suburbs south of the Golden Horn, as well as a new section connecting accross the Galata Bridge and running along the Bosphorus for some distance, currently ending at Findikili. Tokens (jeton) can be bought at a booth near the platform, currently (July 2006) 1.30 YTL. Jetons are good for one trip only of unlimited stops (untill you leave a "platform"), and do not allow transfers.

This line is connected to the northern metro line via a funicular connecting Taksim metro station with Findikili tram station. It is also connected the the southern metro line (for the Otogar and Ataturk Airport) at Aksaray station, though the metro and tram lines are a short walk from earch other.

Buying an AKBIL is a good idea if you are in Istanbul for more than a day or two, and intend to use any public transport. Its like a little key, but think of it as a pass that gives you access to buses, trams, metro and even local ferries. The great part for travellers is that you can buy one and buzz it as many times as there are passengers. Ticket fares across buses trams and metros are standard (i.e not dependent on how far you go), so you just buzz the Akbil when you get on to the bus or enter the tram/metro platform. You can buy this at booths marked Akbil at Eminonu (just at the start of the Galata Bridge), amongst other places. An Akbil allows free transfer as well as loading it with daily/weekly/two weekly and monthly tickets.

See

• Haghia Sofia (Aya Sofya), Sultanahmet Square (by tram: Sultanahmet), 0212 5221750. Tu-Su 9:00AM-7:30PM. Dating from the sixth century, originally a basilica constructed for the Byzantine Emperor Justinian. A masterwork of Roman engineering, the huge 30 m diameter dome covers what was for over 1000 years the largest enclosed space in the world. The basilica was looted in 1204 during the fourth Crusade, and became a mosque in the 15th century when the minarets were added. It was turned into a museum in 1930's. Don't miss the excellent mosaics, including those in the gallery, reached by a stone ramp to the left of the entrance. Entry approx $12 (currently 10 Lira which is probably cheaper than $12- as of August 2006). Also, the inside is undergoing a major refurb and there is a huge amount of scafolding in a gigantic tower going up to the top of the dome (whilst this DID give photos some sense of scale it kind of ruined it a bit). (no concessions, no cards accepted).

• Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Sarayi), Bab-i Hümayün Caddesi (by tram: Gülhane/Sultanahmet), 0212 5120480. M,W-Su 9:00AM-5:00PM. The imperial enclave of the Ottoman emperors for three centuries. Lavishly decorated, with four courts of increasing grandeur. In the second court in the entrance to the Harem (admission extra) and the State Treasury, housing a weaponary display. The third court has the Imperial Treasury (admission extra). The views from the Fourth Court over the Bosphoros are spectacular. approx $10 (no concessions, cards accepted, Harem and Imperial Treasury extra).

• Sultanahmet Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii, aka Blue Mosque), At Meydam Sokak 17, Sultanahmet (by tram: Sultanahmet), 0212 5181319. May-Oct 9:00AM-9:00PM, Nov-Apr:9:00AM-7:00PM. With its six minarets and sweeping architecture the Sultanahmet or 'Blue' Mosque impresses from the outside. Unlike Haghia Sophia, this is still a working mosque, entry is through the courtyard on the SW side. No shorts or bare shoulders (shawls are provided) and you will need to remove your footwear. Free.

• Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnici). Yerebatan Cad., Sultanahmet. It doesn't sound like much, but this giant underground cistern built by Justinian in 532 to provide water to the city in cases of siege, and later consacrated as a basilica, is one of the most fascinating places to visit in Istanbul. A wooden walkway winds between the pillars, and lights and piped music add to the eerie atmosphere.

• Galata Whirling Dervish Hall (Galata Mevlevihanesi). Galipdede Caddesi (near Tünel's Galata station). A dancing hall of the mystical Mevlevi order, shut down in 1925 along with all other 'reactionary' movements in Turkey. Today the building houses the Museum of Divan Literature, but the best time to come Sundays between 3 to 5 pm when sema dervish ceremonies are staged. (Buy tickets in advance, as space is limited.) Also check out the small graveyard next door, where the carved fez perched upon the gravestone indicates the occupant's rank in the dervish hierarchy.

• Ortakoy A shore line of the bosphorus beside the Ortakoy mosque. Filled with nice cafes and a perfect view crowded and fun.

• The Museum of Archeology A must to see! One of the best, including a great collection of sumerian tablets!Close to Sultanahmet.

• Museum of Modern Art At Karakoy.A nice organized musuem with contemproray installations.İncluding a cafe with a top notch menu and view.

• Dolmabahce Palace See the Ottoman Palace centered close to Taksim at the Dolmabahce shore.Build on 110.000 meter square ground with 285 rooms and 43 halls where the Ottoman empire was administed in the last 150 years.Guided tours in major spoken languages.

Do

Hamams

A visit to a hamam (Turkish bath) is an essential part of any trip to Istanbul.

• Suleymaniye Bath, +90 212 520 34 10, [3]. Sultan Suleyman had this Hamam built by the famous Architect Sinan in 1550. Architect Sinan build this hamam for himself. He used this hamam for washing. Suleymaniye hamam is only mixed hamam in Istanbul. There are no different section for each sex thus the families may comfortably enjoy this hamam together. Hamam also has two ways free shuttle service for the hotel guests if the booking comes through their reception. Entry 31.50 euro.

• Cağaloğlu Bath, +90 212 522 24 24, [4]. The Cağaloğlu hamam was constructed in 1741 and is the last hamam to be built after a long period during the Ottoman Empire. It was constructed in İstanbul Eminönü.It has separated section. Entry 20 euro.

• Cemberlitas Bath, +90 212 511 25 35, [info@cemberlitashamami.com.tr]. The Cemberlitas Bath is located on Cemberlitas Square in the midst of some of Istanbul's greatest monuments. It was build by also Architect Sinan in 1584. It has 2 sections, female and male. Entry 15 euro.

Walking tours

Walk! Some suggestions for a couple of "walks". But there are many to be made on your own, so do.

Museums and such: Haghia Sophia, then on to the Topkapı museum (these two should take care of three to five hours), preferably along the road in the back of the Haghia Sophia, where there are some nicely restored houses. Then on to the Blue Mosque and the square with the obelisks on it (At Meydani). Along its side is the very good Museum of Islam Art. Descend slightly and find the Small Haghia Sophia with its nice garden (it was under restoration, but you probably can get in). Then uphill to the Sokollu Mehmet mosque complex: top notch tiles inside.

Take a tram or walk to Eminönü (where the boats leave for trips to Asia or up the Bosporus). Visit the New Mosque in the back of it, then the Egyptian Bazaar next to it, and going further in that direction, locate the Rüstem Pasha mosque with its excellent tiles. It's on a raised platform near an old clothes market, you may have to ask directions. Then take a cab or find a bus to Eyüp mosque complex, a mile or three up the Golden Horn. Visit this Eyüp complex at your leisure (the mosque is not particular, the court is, and the milling of believers, with many boys-to-be-circumcised amongst it; a Friday might be a good day to do this). Than, if you have the stamina, it might be nice to walk back to .. well, maybe all the way (five miles or so), but taking a route along part of the city wall to first the famous Kariye Church with its mosaics, then on to Selimiye Mosque with its great view on the Golden Horn (and a fine mosque by itself), then the Fatih Mosque (passing through some very religious and lively neighbourhoods), then on to the well-restored Sehzade mosque, and next to Süleymaniye (don't forget to enjoy the view from the Golden Horn side). If you have some energy left you might go on to the University complex, and by then you are very close to the Beyazit mosque. A book market (it’s small) is behind this good, unexceptional (nice courtyard though) mosque.

Once again go to Eminönü, but this time take the boat (those large ferries) to Üsküdar. You will arrive with a fine mosque in front, another one four hundred meters off to the right, slightly inland behind a traffic roundabout, a third, very small, at the sea front,. See the market stretching inland, walk about and don't forget to walk along the shore, maybe eating a fish meal in one of the bobbing boats along it. This is a good visit for late afternoon, early evening, fleeing the city. You will be joined by thousands of people going home from "town" but the way back will be on a near-empty ferry. The frequency of ferries will go down in the evening, so make sure there is a connection back

Go to the railroad station and find a Sirkeci-Halkali suburban train, and get out at (from memory, Yenikapi station). You will be quite close to Yedikule, a nice fortress, and will have fine views of the city walls from that. The trains leave every 15 minutes or so, the ride is peculiar (the material is bad, but if you are in luck every second stop another salesman will enter and try selling his wares, its fun. The ride is twenty minutes, half an hour. You may back from Yedikule into the city, just drifting. This is not a "must", but it can be great fun.

You will have missed the covered bazaar in all this. That is because you will get there anyhow. If you go to Beyazit and the book market you are almost at two of its many entrances. Try and find the Nuruosmaniye Mosque and its complex at the other side, its worth it. And after having explored the covered part, take a relaxing walk downhill, into the general direction of Eminönü, where it is "uncovered bazaar" all the way. And then cross the Galata bridge to see some things on the Northern side (for instance take the "tünel" teleferik ride up much of the hill (entrance close to the opposite side of Galata bridge, ask around), then continue to Taksim. Shops are of the international variety.

Learn

Learn useful Turkish words and phrases with the Turkish phrasebook.

Work

There is always a high demand for qualified ESOL/EFL teachers in Istanbul. Many teachers work with private instructional companies. Others contract out on a freelance basis.

Buy

• Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi). Istanbul's grand old bazaar with an estimated 4400 shops lined along covered walkways. It is said to be the world's oldest shopping mall, covers several blocks and features a labrynth of side streets to keep you lost for the better part of a day. The shops seem organized around their wares, e.g. the silver jewlers are clustered together, the carpet shops are clustered elsewhere and the shoe shops are bunched together somewhere else. Parts of it now rather touristy and you're likely to pay a little more for your purchase than elsewhere but with the vast selection you'll find what you're looking for and it's one of Istanbul's character pieces.
• Turkish Delight of Lokum (as the locals call it) is also a good buy since you're in Turkey. It is advisable to buy it fresh rather than in pre-packaged boxes and to get a variety of flavours rather than the stereotypical rose-water or lemon flavours bought abroad. Pistachio in particular is very good

Eat

Budget

• Meshur Köfteci (Selim Usta): near the Sultanahmet tram stop (150 meters downhill) is the three floor restaurant. Meshur means famous, and they rightly claim that title. Their specialty is meatballs (in a slightly different form, called köfte). Take it with a piyaz (beans salad) and ayran. Service is very swift and attentive, prices ordinary.
• Simit Sarayi: a kind of quick-restaurant chain. You can buy tasty filled pastry here.

Mid-range

• Neyle Meyle: Located on the tiny street of Nevizade Sokak behind Istiklal Cadessi, this place is one of many on the street that is absolutely buzzing and alive with locals and travellers downing lots of raki or beer and eating tasty mezes. Tables and chairs are literaaly falling onto the street, and if you're not in one place you could just as well be in the next.

• Set Kebap at Nispetiye Cad. No:13 in Levent has a wonderful mezze table and delicious Adana Kebab. The staff speaks very little English but are most anxious to be helpful.

• Kosebasi Kebap One of the best modern and delicous kebaps to eat.

• Hai Sushi Yes,that is correct.One of the best sushi İ had arround the world!

• Sosa Very healthy and good priced salads and wraps etc .

Splurge

• Balikci Yuksel The best fish and seafood you will have in your life! Arround 50 USD per person but worth every single cent.İt is a must! Do go with their recommandations . Tel 90 (212) 663 97 42

The Four Seasons Hotel does a spectacular, if pricy, Sunday Brunch featuring a range of Turkish and international foods. (January 2005 price - 70 YTL, 11.30am - 3pm). [5], T: 90 (212) 638 82 00, Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1, Sultanahmet-Eminönü.

Drink

The best area for nightlife is in Beyoglu, north of the Golden Horn.

Cafes

• Sark Kahvesi'. Yaglikcilar Caddesi 134 (in the Grand Bazaar). [6]. The most famous cafe in the market and a time warp into days gone by, full of traders playing backgammon. Turkish coffee NTL 1,5.

• Melekler Kahvesi Melekler Kahvesi which is a backstreet cafe is located in Taksim. Its address is Ayhan Işık Sk No:36 Taksim, and phone number is 212 251 31 01. It is a very popular place among young people. You can play games such as Scrabble and you can drink Turkish coffee (6 YTL). After drinking Turkish coffee fortunetellers will look the coffee grounds and tell your future for free.

Sleep

The Sultanahmet (old city) part of Istanbul has a high number of stray cats, so no matter where you wind up sleeping you are likely to be rocked to sleep by a lively feline chorus. if you're from a non-Muslim country, your sleep will also get interupted by the morning call to prayers (5:00 AM) emanating loudly from the Blue Mosque.

Budget

• Hostel Orient - Yeni Akbiyik Cad 13. Tel: +90 212 517 9493 (fax: +90 212 518 3894; info@orienthostel.com) [7]. Okay hostel in a good location in Sultanahmet. Staff pretty unfriendly, but Istanbul will make you forget all that. Cafe/bar upstairs, rooftop lounge area overlooking the Golden Horn, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and the oldest mosque in Istanbul (it's small and has one minaret--just go down the street towards Topkapi). Pretty cheap rooms, but the travel agency downstairs is overpriced, as is the beer in the bar. Bellydancers two or three nights per week in the basement bar, but expect competition for her affections from older local businessmen. Also expect terrible euro-techno in many of Istanbul's bars and nightclub.

• Bahaus Guesthouse in Sultanahmet. Bayram Fırın Sokağı not far from the Orient hostel. Staff friendly. Dorm room around U$ 10. Breakfast extra. Rooftop bar beer YTL 3,5. Free Internet on old computers (Wındows 98) Connection Ok.

• Mavi Guesthouse in Sultanahmet. staff friendly, breakfast included, dorms very cheap. close to the four seasons hotel and many other backpackers and within 2 mins slow walk of the blue mosque and Aya Sofia. the staff also organised me a hired mini-bus trip back to the aiport which was roughly 1/3 the price of a taxi (12 lira) and picked me up outside the guesthouse. internet, small (cosy) tv room etc

• Hostel World House not in Sultanahmet, but 2 mınutes walk from Istiklal-Street in Beyoğlu.Galipdede Cad. no 117. Tel: +90 212 293 55 20, [8]. Nice and friendly new hostel, popular with long-term stayers. Dorm rooms 10€/11€, free Internet...

Mid-range

• the Blue House Hotel (Mavi Ev) [9], tel +90 (212) 638 90 10/11/12/13/14/15/16 - opened July 1997 and located at the heart of old city center, steps away from world famous Blue Mosque
• Empress Zoe [10], Akbiyik Caddesi, Adliye Sok No 10, Sultanahmet, tel 518-2504 - a wonderful little hotel in a quiet street just off Sultanahmet, with spartan but elegant rooms decorated in Turkish style and beautiful views over the Hagia Sophia from the rooftop terrace. All mod cons including bathroom, air-con, safe. Rooms from €50 and suites from €100, including breakfast.

• Ibrahim Pasha [11], Terzihane Sok. No. 5, Adliye Yani, Sultanahmet, is lovely boutique hotel just steps away from the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. The room rates, starting at 125 Euros for a standard, include a full Turkish breakfast in the dining area off the main lobby. The hotel has a rooftop sitting area with direct views of most of the major sites in Sultanahmet - an incomparable vista as the moon rises on a clear evening. The comfortable rooms have all mod-cons, including WiFi. The staff is attentive, courteous and helpful. Highly recommended.

Splurge

• Ciragan Palace Kempinski [12], the best hotel in Istanbul, on the Bosphorus coast just south of the main square of Ortakoy.

• Four Seasons Istanbul [13], a converted prison (!) in the historic Sultanahmet district. Offers stunning views of the Haghia Sophia, but no pool.

• A'jia Hotel [14], located at the Asian side of the city facing the beautiful Bosphorus. A unique boutique hotel. Do not miss it!

Contact

Cafés with free wireless internet:

• Several of the nargile places in Tophane
• Leyla, Cihangir
• Kahvedan, Cihangir
• Most cafés and restaurants in Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu

And cheap ones:

• There is one upstairs by the restaurants facing the side of Aya Sofia and behind the entrance to the Basilica in Sultanahmet. Cost 3 lira per hour (2006) high speed connection.

Stay safe

Taksim bar/club scams Be aware of high-drink price scams encountered in many clubs in the Taksim area of Istanbul. In this scam, you enter a club and are shown a menu with certain drink prices on it. When you ask for the bill, the prices have been considerably raised. When you ask to see the menu, another modified menu is produced with the higher prices listed.

A variation of this scam is for young ladies to come to your table and introduce themselves. After a word or two, they leave. When the bill comes, they have charged 10-12 outrageously-priced drinks to the bill, which the customer has allegedly offered to pay for. Also be aware of apparently friendly groups of young Turks striking up a conversation in the street and inviting you to a "good club they know". This has frequently been reported as a prelude to such a scam. The person(s) in on the scam may offer to take you to dinner first, in order to lull your suspicions.

In either of these scams, if you refuse to pay the high prices or try to call the police to file a complaint, the club managers may use physical intimidation to bring the impasse to a close.

Stay healthy

Tap water in Istanbul IS safe to drink ın that you are in no danger of getting cholera, however many people fınd that the tap-water does not agree wıth them due to the large amounts of neutralising chemicals. Bottled water ıs cheap and widely avaılıble.

Cope

English is widely-spoken and understood in Istanbul as its profile as a city break destination increases. Nonetheless, it is still common to encounter people who speak only Turkish. In most cases you can get over the problem because Turkish people are friendly and helpful.

Many females I met felt uncomfortable walking around alone due to "lecherous looks" etc., but being a lad, I had no complaints and neither did my two companions (both female) although I was with them all the time.

Get out

• Istanbul to New Delhi overland

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