Kaohsiung Travel Guide
From Wikitravel
Kaohsiung (高雄; [1]) is the second largest city in Taiwan and the world's third largest cargo-container seaport. It is located to the southwest of the island.
Contents |
Understand
Kaohsiung is Taiwan's second largest city (at 1.5 million inhabitants) and largest port. The city has high concentrations of heavy industry including steel works, shipbuilding, and other exports which have led to Kaohsiung's noticibly higher level of air pollution (though the situation has improved in recent years). Unlike Taipei, Kaohsiung is a planned city with wide streets and slightly less traffic congestion. In recent years the city has made great strides in transforming itself from a primarily industrial city to a modern metropolis with several new city beautification initiatives and new infrastructure. The city is often known as Taiwan's "Harbor Capital" (港都) because of it's close connection and heavy reliance on the ocean and maritime transportation.
Kaohsiung began in the 17th century as a small fishing village named "Takao" (打狗), dervied from the local aboriginal name meaning "bamboo forest". The name was changed to "高雄" (meaning: "high hero") by the Japanese in 1895, also pronounced "Takao" in Japanese, as they found the original name of 打狗 ("beating the dog") to be vulgar. The modern name of "Kaohsiung" is the pronunciation of "高雄" in Mandarin.
The city is divided into eleven adminstrative districts, which can be roughly grouped by character:
- Downtown
- Sinsing (新興區)
- Cianjin (前金區)
- Lingya (苓雅區)
- The Old City
- Chijin (旗津區)
- Gushan (鼓山區)
- Yancheng (鹽埕區)
- Zuoying (左營區)
- Other
- Sanmin (三民區)
- Nanzih (楠梓區)
- Cianjhen (前鎮區)
- Siaogang (小港區)
This article covers the downtown area only. For information on outer districts see their specific articles.
Get in
By plane
Kaohsiung International Airport (KHH) is about twenty minutes from the city center. International flights from Asia and America arrive daily and the airport is easily accessible by scooter, car or taxi. Most flights will probably be intra-island flights from the much larger Chiang Kai-Shek International Airport near Taipei.
By train
Kaohsiung is served by the Taiwan Railway Administration's Western Line and Pingtung Line. The city is roughly 4 to 5 hours away from Taipei by express train.
The new Kaohsiung Station will be shared with Taiwan High Speed Rail when the latter begins passenger services in late 2006.
By bus
Buses run the length of the island, with stops in major towns. They feature fully reclining seats, baggage transportation and, on most, video game consoles or televisions for each seat. Prices run just over 1000 NT$ per trip, depending on the initial and final destination.
Most major bus companies have their office and stops close to the train station. They are located on the same road as the train station, about half a block down the street.
By boat
Because Kaohsiung is also a harbor, transportation by boat will bring you directly into the city.
Get around
By ferry
Inexpensive ferry service is available between different parts of Kaohsiung City as well as between the city and the Chijin District which lies on an island in the harbor.
By car
Rentals are available in various locations across town, but obtaining a license within the city can be a problem. It is recommended you call ahead if you have an international drivers license to insure it will allow you to drive. In addition, license laws in Taiwan fluctuate from year to year for foreigners. Currently, as of 2006, you must have an Alien Residence Card for more than a year to take the license examination.
Parking is scarce, but available. The city recognizes this problem, and attempts to make the city more car-friendly by building parking garages and painting designated parking spaces alongside streets. However, for travel within the city itself, or only locally, it is recommended you get a scooter.
By scooter
Scooters are the primary means of transportation within Kaohsiung. With a dedicated two-wheel vehicle lane on most major roads, and with frequent and varied scooter shops around town, renting or purchasing a scooter is very easy; however, see the Taiwan article for legal issues including licenses.
Scooters come in several sizes, including 50cc, 90cc, 125cc and 150cc. The larger scooters, 150cc, often include a greater subset of amenities for a second passenger, including a backrest, wider seat, full windshield and footholds and can rival a motorcycle overall size and shape. Often, they come with larger wheels as well.
All passengers on a scooter must wear helmets by law. Helmets are sold almost everywhere, and range in price from 100 NT$ to upwards of 1,000 NT$.
Legal Issues
Scooters with an engine size of 50cc do not require a license to drive, but should be insured and registered in the owner's name. However, foreigners often drive scooters up to 150cc with no license, insurance or registration. Due to a loophole in Taiwanese law, scooters registered to foreigners who have left the country cannot be bought by Taiwanese citizens because the registration cannot change hands, legally. An underground market in "foreigner scooters" allows visitors to purchase scooters without insurance or registration.
City police are often more lenient on foreigners. Short of being towed for parking in a red zone (a stripe of red paint on the edge of a sidewalk or road), foreigners are usually waved through stops, or, at best, ticketed. If the scooter is not registered to you however, its hard to say what exactly happens when the ticket is sent out. Often the best idea is to speak a language other than English or Chinese, play dumb and hope the officer will get flustered and let you go.
By bike
Bikes are also common in Kaohsiung, and the large number of locally produced bikes (often rebranded and sold overseas) means purchasing a new bike will often be cheaper relative to its counterpart in other countries (primarily Europe and America). Giant, a well-built, recognized Taiwanese brand, has shops throughout the city, and some of the store managers speak English. Bikes are street legal, even without a helmet, but theft is common for any bike over 3,000 NT$.
On foot
Walking in the city is HIGHLY discouraged. Because sidewalks double as scooter parking, and the prevalence of construction, walking around the streets of Kaohsiung can, at times, be tantamount to suicide. The variety of traffic on the road, as well as on-the-whole dismissal of traffic signals (red lights are run, even in full police view), leaves the pedestrian at the will of anything and everything around him or her.
In addition, during rainy weather, many of the sidewalks take on the characteristics of glass. They become so slick, in fact, that watching scooters, bicycles and pedestrians fall down on the sidewalks on a rainy day is given little, if any, notice.
If you can help it, avoid walking to get around Kaohsiung.
Taxi
Taxis can be an easy way to get to somewhere unfamiliar, and are fairly common in the city. If you have the business card of a location, or the Chinese written down, they can easily get you there far faster than most other means.
It is best to get the price in advance, and, if possible, buckle up. Few taxi drivers speak English, and the majority ignore any and all rules of the road. Do not be surprised if they drive the wrong way, up a hill, through heavy traffic. If the price is not negotiated in advance, do not be surprised if they take you in the wrong direction for a little while, or even drive in circles. Typically, going from one end of the city to the other should never be more than 400 NT$.
See
- The Chijin District (旗津) is located on a slender island in Kaohsiung harbor which serves as a natural breakwater for the harbor. The district is filled with seafood restaurants selling freshly caught seafood which can be prepared right after you pick it out. Chijin is connected to the rest of Kaohsiung City by underwater tunnels, but the transporation of choice is one of the many ferries that traverse the harbor. Fare for the ferry ride is roughly NT$15 per person. The area is especially crowded on weekends with many visitors bringing their entire family along.
Do
- Feast on fresh seafood in the Chijin District.
- Visit the Liouho Night Market.
- Enjoy a coffee in one of the waterfront-side cafes along the Ai River.
Learn
Kaohsiung is home to a number of Universities. However, unless you are fluent in Mandarin Chinese, the primary focus for visitors will be Language acquisition.
There are two major Language Institutes in the city: Taipei Language Institute (TLI) and Wenzao College Of Languages.
TLI is located in the heart of downtown Kaohsiung. They focus heavily on spoken and conversational Mandarin, and teach primarily through the use of Hanzu Pinyin.
Wenzao offers courses in a number of languages, including English, French, Spanish and Mandarin. Chinese classes focus on the full spectrum of the language, and traditionally begin with BoPoMoFo phonetics and move into character production, tone use and full immersion.
Both schools are excellent and highly respected. On average, Westerners can become conversationally adept in 6 months to 2 years, depending on intensity of study and frequency of class attendance.
Barriers
It is important to note that while Chinese grammar is relatively easy for Westerners to grasp, the tonal nature of the language can be especially tricky. While self study programs can be of some use (especially in reading Chinese), it is not recommended you try to just 'pick up the language.'
Characters are written in a very specific order and deviation from that order results in a meaningless jumble of lines and squiggles. Children begin practicing at an early age, and spend much of their free time practicing and rehearsing new characters.
The tones are critical in the production of words in Chinese. Trying to simply repeat a sound you heard may result in nothing, but in some cases you may insult another person, or even get yourself into a dangerous situation without realizing it. It is imperative you get a find a good teacher or school and spend a great deal of time learning the tones (there are five). Without this solid foundation, correct pronunciation will do you absolutely no good.
Work
For foreigners, currently work in Kaohsiung falls into two branches. The majority of employment involves English as a Second Language (ESL) work in bushibans, kindergartens and schools (public, private or university). Most of the others are businessmen and women in the employ of multinational corporations here to manage, oversee or deploy production in Taiwan for their home company abroad. Others, such as the large engineer force currently present, have come to participate in the construction of either the High Speed Rail or the Kaohsiung Mass Rapid Transit (KMRT).
Currently, ESL work requires an Alien Resident Card (ARC), a work permit and a signed contract. Several reputable bushibans around the city offer all of the above with the agreement to a one year contract. Pay typically starts between 550 and 650 NT$ per hour (depending the one school, your experience and the numbers of hours you work per week). Some of the better recognized (and more reputable) schools include Joy English School, American English School, SchoolHouse, and KNS Language Institute.
Almost all bushibans work with grade school children (with the exception of kindergartens) between the ages of 5 and 13. Curriculum and ability varies from school to school, and it is best to examine your options well in advance of coming to Taiwan. While some come to Taiwan and know in advance for whom they will work, many do not. Jobs can be found year-round, but most schools hire in July / August, at the beginning of the traditional school year. It is illegal to sign a contract outside of Taiwan.
If you go with a school other than those above, beware. Check around with other foreigners to get a feel for the school. There are more than a few fly-by-night 'English schools' in the city, and by quitting a job after you sign a contract, you may find getting another job difficult. Breaking a contract can also result in being blacklisted and, in some cases, deported.
Substitute work is easily available and can be obtained through internet groups such as Connect Kaohsiung or through local postings in expatriate hangouts. However, without the paperwork above, you will need to leave the country every 2-4 months to renew your Visa. You will also be working illegally, with no national health insurance and a number of other inconveniences (including lack of phone and Internet access). Most kindergartens are also highly illegal and few, if any, provide work permits. As a general rule of thumb, if you are paid in cash, you are working illegally.
Requirements
Bushiban work requires a college degree, a caucasian look and native English ability. Only a handful of schools look for TOEFL or other such certificates, and these should be considered simply a refresher course in English grammar and semantics.
It is important to note that, from a Western perspective, to the Taiwanese appearance is everything. Tattoos, piercing, dark skin or a non-Caucasian look will increase your difficulty in finding a job. Racism is not seen as a problem here, and if you stand out in any way from what is perceived (to them) as 'normal,' it will be pointed out at every opportunity or, in some cases, shunned. Staring and pointing are not considered rude or even inappropriate. This is not to discourage African-American's or Hispanics who speak English natively, but simply a fair warning. English speaking Asians will have the most trouble.
In order of preference, Taiwanese look for teachers from: U.S., Canada, Britain, Australia, South Africa.
Buy
Eat
Meal etiquette is not as ritualized as some countries, but it is important to note a few distinctions.
- Eat when you are served. Food does not come out together as in many Western cultures, and each guest's meal may come out at greatly varying times, as much as 20 minutes in some instances. It is not considered polite, but rather foolish, to wait for all members of your party to be served before you eat.
- Don't expect a napkin. They aren't common and, if provided, resemble tissues more than anything else.
- Never lay your chopsticks down by sticking them straight up in the air inside a dish. This is the equivalent of saying someone at the table has or will die in the very near future.
- When eating rice or noodles, bring the bowl up to your face. When you hunch over to eat your food without making some effort to bring the food up to your face, it is considered somewhat low-class.
Budget
Night markets are a great place to pick up cheap local foods, including stinky tofu, barbecued squid, red bean pancakes and the like.
Lunchboxes are common throughout the city, and a choose-your-order buffet take-out typically ranges from 50 to 100 NT$. The food is typically fried, with a mix of vegetables and meats.
The ubiquitous 7-Eleven stores have tea eggs, hot dogs, packaged beverages and junk food. Lunchbox style microwavables are also available, including dumplings, spaghetti and curry rice.
Mid-range
Bagel Bagel is great for disoriented Westerners in search of familiar food. They offer a variety of tasty sandwiches at reasonable prices (150-200 NT$). The menu is in English and most of the staff understand and speak some English. There are two branches in the city, including one adjacent to the Love River.
Smokey Joes offers Tex-Mex, including fajitas, tortillas and other Western staples at affordable prices (170 NT$ and up). The menu is in English and the staff usually understands some English as well. They offer a 'VIP' card for people who spend over 1,000 NT$ on 20 separate meals which gives the holder at 10% discount at any store operated by Amy (the owner of Smokey Joes). This includes Mama Mia's, an Italian restaurant located downtown.
General Panchos, a burrito stand approximately 3 blocks from Smokey Joes, offers slightly cheaper mexican cuisine, including taquitos, tacos and burritos. Prices range but stay under 200 NT$ for a meal.
The Pantheon serves traditional Greek and Mediterranean food at good prices. Known for their Gyro lunch (around 200 NT$), they are one of the few (if only) restaurants that serves lamb. They also offer a 20% discount on takeout.
Splurge
The Spice Shop, located on Minghua Rd. just west of Dollars, offers Indian food at slightly higher prices. Dishes come in an a-la-carte style, and each ranges from 120 NT$ to 300 NT$. Typically 2 or 3 dishes makes up a meal. There is also another Indian restaurant closer to Dollars called the Curry Shop.
An excellent vegetarian buffet-style restaurant is situated in the basement of the Tuntex Sky Tower (the two-legged skyscraper) - around NT$800 for an all-you-can-eat lunch.
Drink
Two local beer companies, Tsingtao and Taiwan Beer, are ubiquitous throughout the island and can be purchased by visitors cheaply with little hassle about age restrictions.
Most major soft drinks are available, and tea stands on almost every corner offer concoctions of fruit, yogurt, green tea and a variety of other flavors.
While tap water is most certainly NOT potable, good reverse osmosis filtration will remove bacteria and heavy metals, and is considered safe for consumption. Water dispensers, which resemble gas stations, are present throughout the city. However, they, along with many of the bottled water brands, are suspect. Both have been found, in the past, to simply bottle or distribute tap water.
To avoid ingesting non-potable water, only purchase bottles that are sealed with an expiration date clearly printed on the bottle. Often, it is easier to simply purchase green tea at a stand or a convenience store, or a soft drink. Restaurant water is safe, with the exception of some lunchbox eateries and stands on the street.
Sleep
Budget
Mid-range
Splurge
- Howard Plaza Hotel Kaohsiung No. 311 Chihsien 1 Road. Tel: (07) 236-2323. [2]
Contact
Stay safe
Theft tends to be the most commonly encountered form of criminal activity for foreigners. Expensive bikes and scooters are stolen frequently and car break-ins do occur.
Violent crimes occur occasionally, but the weapons of choice are knives, pipes and chains. Guns are illegal in Taiwan, a policy strictly enforced and strictly adhered to.
Kidnapping (both property and personage) comes and goes, though the incidence among foreigners is close to zero.
As a major seaport, organized crime has become an increasing problem in the city, and a fair number of businesses are nothing more than a front for the local gangs. Avoid confrontation, do not yell or curse and keep your temper in check and your chances of being the target of any sort of crime drop dramatically.
In general, Kaohsiung offers a safe environment for foreigners as long as you mind your own business and don't get involved with local rivalries. Violent street crime is still relatively scarce, and visitors should not encounter any problems - though, like any major city, it is always wise to err on the side of caution.
Cope
Get out
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