From Wikitravel

Montreal [1] (French: Montréal) is the cultural capital of Quebec and the main entry point to the province. The second largest city in Canada, it is a city rich in culture and history, has an inordinate number of attractive, fashionably dressed people, and a well-deserved reputation as one of the liveliest cities in North America. Montreal is the third-largest Francophone metro area in the world, after Paris and Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Contents 1 Districts 2 Understand 3 Get in 3.1 By plane 3.2 By car 3.3 By train 3.4 By bus 4 Get around 4.1 On foot 4.2 By car 4.3 By bike 4.4 By metro or bus 4.5 By train 4.6 Map 5 See 6 Do 6.1 Bike 6.2 Parks 6.3 Festivals 6.4 Sports to watch 7 Learn 8 Work 9 Buy 9.1 General 9.2 Luxury 9.3 Furniture and antiques 10 Eat 10.1 Budget 10.2 Mid-range 10.3 Splurge 11 Drink 11.1 Bars 11.2 Dance clubs 11.3 After hours clubs 11.4 Gay and lesbian 12 Sleep 12.1 Budget 12.2 Mid-range 12.3 Splurge 13 Contact 14 Stay safe 15 Respect 16 Get out

Districts

• Vieux Montréal
• The Plateau
• Downtown
• Gay Village

Understand

Situated on an island in the St. Lawrence River just at its highest navigable point, Montreal has been a strategic location since before the arrival of Europeans in Canada. A thriving First Nations Mohawk community called Hochelaga was on the site of present-day Montreal when explorer Jacques Cartier first visited in 1535. A hundred years later, in 1642, the tiny town of Ville-Marie was founded as a Sulpician mission, but soon became a center of the fur trade. After its capture by the English in 1762, Montreal remained the most important city in Francophone Canada, and was briefly capital of the province in the 1840s.

Prohibition on sales of alcohol in the United States during the 1920s and '30s made Montreal a mecca for cross-border fun seekers from nearby New England and New York. The city built up a seedy yet playful industry in alcohol, burlesque, and other vices. In the 1960s, an urban renewal drive centered around Expo 67. The World's Fair in Montreal brought a subway system and a number of attractive urban parks, and is considered to be one of the most successful World Fairs. The 1976 Olympics left a strikingly idiosyncratic stadium and many other urban improvements.

The opening of the Saint Lawrence Seaway in 1959, though much lauded as an economic boon, spelled the beginning of the end for Montreal's economic dominance in Canada. Once the transition point between western railroads and eastern sea carriers, Montreal watched helplessly as some of this business moved farther west, up the now navigable Seaway, to ports in Ontario and on Lake Superior. The Quebec sovereignty movement, which began to pick up steam in the 1960s, further chilled the atmosphere for Canada-wide businesses, many of which moved their headquarters to Toronto.

After an economic depression in the 1980s and 1990s — due to automotive and aerospace plant closures in the surrounding area — Montreal today has become more secure in its place in North America and the world. It remains a center of culture, arts, computer technology, the biotech industry and media for all of Canada and for the French-speaking world.

Get in

By plane

Montreal's Pierre Elliott Trudeau Airport [2] (airport code: YUL), formerly Dorval Airport, is about half an hour west of the city center on highway 20. Note that travel time to the airport from the city centre can be as much as an hour, depending on traffic. The airport is served by all major Canadian and American airlines, and is a major hub for Air Canada [3] and WestJet [4]. There are multiple daily trans-Atlantic flights to and from (amongst others) London, Amsterdam, Paris and Frankfurt.

The taxi fare to and from downtown is a fixed price of $35 (a sticker on the window behind the driver gives the boundaries of the zone where the flat fare applies; for origins and destinations outside this zone, you will have to pay a metered fare). The Aérobus is a shuttle running from Dorval to the city's central bus station at 777 de la Gauchetière West (which is above Berri-UQAM métro station) via a number of downtown hotels. It departs every half hour from 7AM to 1AM. Tickets are $13 one-way.

Alternatively, public bus no. 204 leaves from outside arrivals every half hour to Gare Dorval (Dorval train station - check with the driver which direction he is going in, as both bus routes stop at the same pier). From Dorval, you can use your transfer ticket to catch express bus no. 211/221 to the Lionel-Groulx métro (subway). Your transfer will then let you into the métro. This costs only $2.50 but exact change must be provided to the first driver.

Montreal has another airport, Mirabel (the second largest airport in the world by area, incidentally) about an hour north of the city center. Since October, 2004 it has been used exclusively as a cargo terminal.

By car

From Toronto, take Highway 401 east for about 5 hours until it becomes Autoroute 20 on the Quebec side of the border. Highway 20 takes about an hour to get to downtown. Be alert for frequent speed-limit changes along this road. To reach downtown follow the Centre-Ville signs and take Highway 720 (Highway 20 continues over the Pont Champlain bridge to the South Shore).

From Ottawa, it's about 2 hours east along Highway 417 (which becomes the 40 in Quebec) to Montreal.

From Quebec City, it's about 2.5-3.5 hours west on either Highway 40 or 20.

From New York City, take Interstate Freeway 87 north through Albany and the eastern half of New York State for about six hours. After the border crossing near Plattsburgh, the freeway becomes Highway 15, which leads directly into downtown Montreal over the Pont Champlain — the most beautiful approach to the city.

From Boston, take Interstate Highway 93 to Highway 89 in Concord, New Hampshire, through Vermont to the border crossing near Burlington, where it turns into Highway 133 which intersects Highway 10, which taken west leads directly into downtown Montreal. The whole trip takes about 6-7 hours.

NOTE: If you really want to save money you can rideshare, which is essentially carpooling. For example, there are daily rides from Toronto to Montreal and back for $30-50, which is cheaper than any other means of transportation between the two cities. You can see a listing at places such as Craigslist [5].

By train

Montreal Central Station (Gare Central) is at 895 rue De La Gauchetière Ouest, one block west of rue University, and is served by the Bonaventure metro (subway) station.

VIA Rail Canada [6] operates fast and comfortable passenger trains from Montréal along the busy Québec-Ontario 'corridor' and to destinations in northern Québec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. All fares below are five-day advance booking prices for one way travel in 'Comfort' (coach / economy) class, expect to pay almost 50% more if you book on the day of travel. 'VIA-1' (first / business) class is available for a premium, and includes refreshments, snacks and pay-per-use wireless internet in both station lounges and on board the train. An ISIC student card can obtain a discount on all services (both VIA and Amtrak).

• Five trains a day operate to and from Ottawa (two hours, from $35)
• Six trains a day operate to and from Toronto (four and a half hours, from $85)
• Five trains a day operate to and from Québec City (three hours, from $47)

Six evenings a week, VIA's ‘Ocean’ service departs for the overnight journey to New Brunswick (fifteen and a half hours, from $110 coach, $162 upper berth, $219 bedroom) and Nova Scotia (twenty hours, from $133 coach, $187 upper berth, $245 bedroom). The choice of sleeping accommodation varies according to the season. Along with trains between Montréal and Québec, the Ocean is now almost exclusively operated by modern 'Renaissance' trains that were originally built for the aborted Channel Tunnel sleeper services between Great Britain and France.

Three evenings a week, the Ocean also pulls the ‘Chaleur’ train as far as Matapedia. The train divides in the early morning, and the Chaleur follows the southern shore of the Gaspé peninsular as far as Gaspe (seventeen and a half hours, from $106 coach, $165 upper berth, $215 bedroom).

VIA also offers three weekly round trips to Senneterre, in Abitibi (eleven and a half hours, from $81) and Jonquiere, in the Saguenay (nine hours, from $55). Both trains operate as wilderness services: a request stop may be made at any point along the route for those who want to hike and kayak in the remoter regions of Québec that the train passes through.

Amtrak's [7] 'Adirondack' service to New York (ten hours, from $55) departs daily, with connections in Schenectady to (but not from) Chicago (twenty four hours, USD$114) and in New York to Philadelphia (thirteen and a half hours, USD$97) and Washington, DC (fifteen and a half hours, $120). The Adirondack is slower, but cheaper than the Greyhound (see below). The train also passes through much of upstate New York and hugs Lake Champlain for a large part of the trip.

Amtrak no longer offers a Thruway Motor Coach connection from Montreal to St-Albans, Vermont and the 'Vermonter' service.

By bus

There are extensive services to Montréal from cities in Ontario, Québec, New York, Vermont and Maine. Buses arrive and depart from the Station Centrale (not to be confused with the Gare Central or Central Train Station) at 505 boulevard De Maisonneuve Est, (directly above the Berri-UQÀM métro station]. Call 514-842-2281 for schedules and prices.

Intercity bus services to Montréal are offered by: Greyhound Canada [8], Coach Canada [9], Vermont Transit [10] and Orleans Express [11]. Orleans Express is the principal bus carrier for the province of Québec, and is the sister company of Acadian Lines [12], who provide connections from northern Québec to destinations in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.

Greyhound offer five daily direct services from New York (eight hours, from USD$76.50) and five from Boston (seven hours, from USD$72). Note that there is no student discount on the Montréal - New York service: the train is slower but significantly cheaper.

Get around

Montreal has historically been divided into east and west by boulevard Saint-Laurent. Numbered addresses on streets that cross Saint-Laurent start there and increase in either direction; most addresses are given as "rue Saint-Quelqu'un Ouest" (west) or "rue Saint-Quelqu'un Est" (east). Many streets are named after Catholic saints and figures from local history, both well-known and obscure.

On foot

Walking is a favoured way to get around the densely-packed downtown and the narrow streets of the Old Port, especially during the warmer months. Beware the winter, however: sidewalks can be icy and extremely hazardous after winter snow and icestorms; winter boots with good grip are essential for surviving pavements that have not been cleared. Beware also (as much as you can) of thawing ice falling from overhanging balconies and roofs.

Jaywalking is widespread and rarely punished: be aware that drivers will usually not stop or slow down if a pedestrian steps out in front of them. Note that at an intersection, however, a pedestrian will have right of passage before turning traffic across a side street, and most drivers respect this. Despite Montreal drivers' reputation for aggressiveness, they generally respect pedestrians.

Prince Arthur Street east of St. Laurent is pedestrian-only. A good trick for navigating downtown Montreal is to remember that streets will slope up towards Mount Royal, which is just north of downtown and easy to see from most locations.

By car

Driving (SAAQ) in Montreal can be a challenge for many North American motorists. It is most important to note that all road signs are in French, that right turns are prohibited on red lights on the island of Montreal, and that pedestrians have a much greater confidence in your ability to brake than you might. This is because driving in Montreal works on a "first-come first-serve" basis and hence you have to be proactive if you want to cross the road.

The use of salt to provide grip during severe winters takes its toll on the roadways, which are either heavily potholed or subject to perpetual construction. Downtown traffic is dense. Street parking can be rare in certain areas and subject to restrictions that can be difficult to understand (tourists are advised to consult with a local before parking, especially on narrow residential streets). Be careful to observe all parking notices, since parking meter attendants can issue tickets (fines) even if the meter has just expired, and they patrol twenty-four hours a day. Parking tickets can only be contested in court by the owner of the car that was subject to the infraction, so if a rented car is ticketed the person who rented may be unable to contest the charge. Car parking downtown costs $5 to $25 per day at parking meters and parking lots.

During the winter months, heavy snowfalls are common. In the aftermarth of a snowstorm an intensively prepared 'deneigement' (snow removal) process begins, with intimidately large snow ploughs and trucks clearing, chewing up and transporting away the snow. If you leave your car parked on a street, pay close attention to any orange signs that might appear on the banks of snow on the sidewalk, and listen out for horn sirens: this is the announcement that a street is about to be cleared and that all parked cars should be moved. If you do not move your car, it will likely be towed to the nearest street with space (with a 100$ fine) or it could be impounded.

Many downtown streets are one-way, which can complicate navigation. If you see a sign at an intersection that has direction arrows in a green circle, that means those are the only directions you are allowed to go. Most left turns are prohibited, however a flashing green light indicates a left-turn priority. Autoroutes (expressways or freeways) can be challenging for visitors, as signage is mostly in French. Learn the words for North, East, South, West, Exit, and Bridge (nord, est, sud, ouest, sortie, pont) and you will make out fine!

Do not be ashamed if driving is too challenging: park your car and take the Metro or rent a bicycle or rollerblades. That's how most Montréalers travel.

By bike

Cycling and in-line skating are very popular once the cold winter weather is over. The city is criss-crossed by 660km of well-maintained cycle paths, including some which cross the St. Lawrence onto the island of Montreal. You can cross over to the South Shore either on the Jacques Cartier bridge, or via Ile Notre Dame.

Even if you are on a bike path, beware of drivers as they are not always aware that there are bikes around. Some downtown bike paths are seperated from the road by parked cars, which decreases your visibility. If one is comfortable driving in Montreal, one generally can feel comfortable biking there as well. While wearing a helmet is not required under the law, it is highly recommended.

Skate and bike hire shops are common, particularly in the Old Port and the Plateau. Visit La Maison des Cyclistes (the cyclists's house) at 1251 rue Rachel Est for all info on cycling in Montreal. (See Do for specific bike paths)

By metro or bus

The public transit system, run by Société de transport de Montréal (STM) [13], is safe, efficient and pleasant to use. Tickets valid for one trip (including transfer) on the metro and buses cost $2.50 each, but are also available for 25% less in strips (lisières) of six for $11.25.

Tourist passes offer unlimited travel on the bus and metro for periods of one day ($9) or three days ($17) and are well worth it. They are available from most downtown metro stations during the summer, but only at Berri-UQAM, Peel, and Bonaventure stations on the off-season. Weekly ($18.50 regular, $10.25 students) and monthly ($63 regular, $33.75 students) passes are also available. Only students studying at a recognised academic institution in Montréal may benefit from student fares.

The STM website offers an on-line trip-planner service called Tous azimuts. [14] Metro system maps are available from the ticket booth at metro stations.

By train

Montreal has a commuter train system run by the Agence métropolitaine de transport (AMT) [15] with termini at the Montreal Central Station (Gare Central) and at Lucien L'Allier (both are accessible from the metro). Commutter trains are handy for getting to suburbs and neighbouring towns.

Commuter train stations are divided into six zones that radiate out from downtown. Stations have automated machines from which you must purchase a ticket appropriate to the zones of the station you are travelling to or from, whichever is farther (e.g. a trip from Zone 1 to Zone 3 or vice versa would require a Zone 3 ticket). Trips in zones 1 and 2 can be reduced in price if you have an STM transfer from the city bus or metro. You must then purchase the tarif combiné ticket at a lower cost. Prepurchased tickets must be validated in the stamping machines at the entrance to the platform. In general, reduced fares (for students and seniors) require ID that is not available to travellers.

There are no ticket machines on the train and ticket inspections are random. If the ticket is not valid, the customer can get a fine of up to $400. In some cases, incorrect tickets will go unnoticed because the security agents pass through only occasionally. Note that instructions for paying are clearly displayed in French only.

Map

MapArt produces and excellent map of downtown Montreal and environs, including Vieux Montréal, Mt. Royal, the Plateau as well as areas as far north as the University of Montreal and as far south as Parc Jean-Drapeau. This is handy so you don't have to keep folding a map of the whole island.

Below is a basic map of the primary areas of interest to visitors.

See

• Old Montreal and the Old Port (Vieux-Montréal, Vieux-Port), South of rue Saint-Antoine between rue McGill and rue Berri (metro Champ-de-Mars or Place-d'Armes) [16]. Old Montreal's cobblestone streets lined with buildings dating from the 17th through 19th centuries make it a scenic and popular tourist attraction. Easiest to explore on foot, one may visit the Marché Bonsecours, the Notre Dame Basilica, several museums (Margeurite Bourgeois, Pointe à Callière (archeological), George Étienne Cartier). Place Jacques Cartier is filled with street artists and musicians, and there are numerous fine restaurants and private art galleries nearby. An area devoted to tourists, it is not the place to see the flavors of the locals. The Old Port is a large waterfront green space with attractions such as Cirque du Soleil, the Montreal Science Center, the Labyrinth, the Clock Tower, and a large outdoor audio-visual stage which is the site for the Canada Day fireworks.

• Plateau Mt. Royal Some of Canada's most densely populated residential neighbourhoods can be found right in the heart of the city, on the leafy and colourful Plateau Mont-Royal. The now infamous 'Horse To Water' (H2W) postal district is officially the most creative place in Canada, with 8% of the population deriving their primary income from artistic or creative work. These are the neighbourhoods that can be the most rewarding to get lost in on foot: in addition to the quiet tree-lined streets with their distinctive outside staircases, almost every block has a 'secret' inner street (or 'ruelle') which runs between the gardens and houses of the two adjacent streets. These ruelles are where Montréalers fix their cars, let their children play outside or walk their dogs. On a hot summer's afternoon, there can be few places as tranquil and relaxing to explore on foot in this city.

• St. Joseph's Oratory (Oratoire Saint-Joseph), 3800 chemin Queen Mary (metro Côte-des-Neiges) [17]. The largest church in Canada. A favorite pilgrimage for devotees of Brother André, who was reputed to have healed the sick and handicapped. Includes a remarkable collection of crutches and canes from the healed.

• Basilique Notre-Dame, 116 rue Notre-Dame ouest (metro Place-d'Armes) [18]. Probably the city's most spectacular church. Entrance fee is $4 (2006). Service is at 17:00 daily and on Sunday morning, entrance is free for worship but donations are suggested. During service, the organ music is not to be missed. While it shouldn't have to be mentioned, tourist should be respectful during mass.

• Cathedral Christ Church, rue Sainte-Catherine near metro McGill and Place-des-Arts. It is a small but colourful church, the mother church of the region's Anglican (Episcopalian) denomination. Of special interest is the organ with additional remote controlled organ pipes in the front of the church. If you have the opportunity to listen to an organ concert there, you should go. The concert will probably be by donation only.

• Mary Queen of the World Cathedral (Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde), 1065, rue de la Cathédrale (metro Bonaventure) [19]. A 1/4 scale copy of St. Peter's in Rome.

• Musée des Beaux-Arts/Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, 1380 rue Sherbrooke Ouest (metro Guy-Concordia) [20]. Free permanent exhibitions and many prominent traveling exhibits.

• Biodôme, 4777 avenue Pierre-De Coubertin (metro Viau) [21]. The former Olympic Velodrome is now a showcase of different ecosystems.

• Jardin Botanique, 4101 rue Sherbrooke Est (metro Pie-IX) [22]. Huge and stunning botanical garden, featuring numerous themed gardens. Admission is about $8, but after 5 PM the indoor section closes and the outdoor part is free until it closes at sundown. During winter only the greenhouses are open to visitors.

• Montreal Insectarium, 4581 rue Sherbrooke Est (metro Pie-IX or Viau), (514) 872-1400 [23]. 9 AM to 5 PM every day usually. The Insectarium is a museum of sorts centered on the insect world. A few living specimens and many displays, with occasional special exhibits, sometimes offering visitors the opportunity to eat various insect-based dishes from around the world. The Insectarium is attached to the Botanical Gardens and tickets can be purchased for either or both.

• Olympic Stadium, 4141 avenue Pierre de Coubertin (metro Pie-IX), 877-997-0919 [24]. 9AM-5PM every day. Built for the 1976 Montreal Olympics, this amazing and controversial building's tower (from which the roof is suspended) is the world's tallest leaning structure. The roof, which could originally be raised, has been replaced numerous times and is the source of great local controversy. You can take a funicular to the top of the Olympic Tower for an incredible view of the city.

• Parc Jean-Drapeau, metro Jean-Drapeau [25]. Part of the site of the 1967 World's Fair, now devoted to green spaces and a large outdoor concert venue. The Gilles Villeneuve racing circuit, home of the Montreal Formula 1 Grand Prix, an artificial beach, a huge outdoors pool complex and the Montreal Casino are also located on or around the parc.

• Habitat 67, 2600 avenue Pierre-Dupuy (take Chemin du Moulins exit from Hwy 10 south), 514-866-5971 [26]. This visually striking residential building was created by architect Moshe Safdie for Expo 67. The result was an amazingly modern dwelling that challenged the way architects created urban homes. Compared alternately to a beehive, a Taos pueblo, and a crystalline growth, the complex's 154 units are composed of prefabricated concrete cubes assembled on site. The apartments here are highly prized and a number of prominent Montrealers make Habitat 67 their home.

• Montreal Planetarium, 1000 rue St-Jacques Ouest, between Peel and de la Cathédrale (metro Bonaventure), (514) 872-4530 [27]. Rates and schedule may vary. See the website for information on rates and shows.

• The Montreal Metro [28], in addition to being a good way to get around, is worth seeing in its own right. Each station was constructed in a unique architectural style and hosts original pieces of public art.

• The Underground City, throughout the downtown area. This network of underground malls and passageways is a very convenient way to walk around during the winter months. It encompasses 6 metro stations on the green and orange lines and all of the major downtown shopping malls.

• Grande Bibliothèque du Québec 475, boulevard De Maisonneuve Est (intersection of Berri and de Maisonneuve; Berri-UQAM metro station), 514 873-1100 or 1-800-363-9028. Open 10h00-22h00 weekdays and 10h00-17h00 weekends. Part of the Bibliothèque Nationale, this is a massive library housing 4 million works. The building itself is a contemporary style building integrating art and architecture including a glass mural, a kinetic lumnious mural and a sculpture garden. Architectural tours are offered, call the library for information.

Do

• Cross-country skiing During the winter, many parks offer the possibility to do cross-country skiing with groomed paths.
  • Parc regional de l'Ile-de-la-Visitation (ski rental available)
  • Parc du Mont-Royal [29] (ski rental available and usually the best ski conditions)
  • Parc Maisonneuve and Jardin Botanique (no ski rental).
• Ice skating
  • Year-round ice-skating, 1000, rue De La Gauchetière (metro Bonaventure).
  • Free skating Lac aux Castors, in the Parc Mont-Royal.
  • Winter skating in the Old Port (Vieux-Port) in front of the Bonsecours Market
• Canoeing and kayaking,
• Casino de Montréal 1, avenue du Casino (metro Jean-Drapeau).[30]
• La Ronde (Six Flags) 22, chemin Macdonald (metro Jean-Drapeau).[31] $33.99, $25.99 without rides, 11- pay $20.99; Season pass individual $85 or family $199. Discounts are readily available — for instance, a Coca Cola tin is worth a $5 discount on any rides ticket.
• River surfing Although the Saint Lawrence River is frozen nearly solid for 4-5 months out of the year, the waterway has become a magnet for aficionados of this new sport. Unlike their oceanic brethren, river surfers ride the standing waves in fresh waterways. The Saint Lawrence has two main hotspots for the sport: Habitat 67 close to the bridge between montreal and Ille des soeur the site of the 1967 expo as well as the Montreal Casino. (This wave is also know as Expo 67). Surf 66 Boardshop at 1952 rue Cabot offers lessons.
• Kayaking Just off the shore of the park in Lasalle are the Lachine Rapids. Huge waves, fast water and loads of fun for Kayaks. Lessons are available on site in the huge eddy formed by the peninsula. Annual surf (rodeo) competitions at "Big Joe" (formely called and sometimes still refered to as "Beneath the Wheel" by old schoolers). Other famous play waves on this set of rapids on the St. Lawrence river are, Istambul & Constantinople, Pyramid, Slice and Dice, Black and Decker as well as HMF on the other side of the islands. For those seeking less of an adrenaline rush, there is always the Bunny Wave (La Vague a Guy) upstream near the bike path at Park Rene Lesvesque. Rafting these same rapids is also a fun option.

Bike

An interactive map of the cycle path network is available at the Vélo Québec website.[32] Particularly pleasant places to cycle and skate include:

• Parc Maisonneuve A large park with smooth paths.
• Parc Jean-Drapeau Particularly the Île Notre-Dame on the Formula One race track: a fantastic view across the water to downtown Montreal.
• Paths along the Lachine Canal, west of the Old Port.
• Paths along the Riviere-des-Prairies. You can ride across Montreal Island from west to east along the river on the north of Montreal. Many sites have incredible views. A stop at Perry Island is a must.

Parks

• Square Saint-Louis, corner of rue Saint-Denis and rue Prince-Arthur, slightly north of rue Sherbrooke (metro Sherbrooke). A charming little park with majestic trees and a lovely fountain, lined with charming houses on three sides (the Institute of Hotel Techniques of Quebec hotel school is the fourth side). This was the site of the first water reservoir in Montreal.
• Parc Jean Drapeau. The former Expo 67 fairgrounds, Parc Jean Drapeau is spread across two islands in the Saint Lawrence River. (metro Parc Jean Drapeau)
• Parc Lafontaine, from avenue Papineau to avenue du Parc Lafontaine and from rue Rachel to rue Sherbrooke. Ice skating on the lake in the winter, baseball, boules, and outdoor theater in the summer. (metro Sherbrooke)

• Parc Maisonneuve and Jardin botanique, from rue Sherbrooke to boulevard Rosemont and from boulevard Pie-IX to avenue Viau (metro Pie-IX or Viau).
• Parc du Mont-Royal, North of avenue des Pins between avenue du Parc and chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges, 514-843-8240 (info@lemontroyal.qc.ca). This beautiful, immense urban park tops the "mountain" (at 232 metres, it's more like a hill) that overlooks all of Montreal and lends the city its name. Designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, creator of Central Park in New York, the park is elegant and accessible, and has hundreds of nooks and crannies to explore. A broad and gradual 5-mile bike and pedestrian path begins at the Monument Georges-Étienne Cartier (on avenue du Parc, opposite the western end of rue Rachel, where the bike path continues), winding its way around the mountain and culminating at the Belvédère (lookout), with incredible views of downtown, the St. Lawrence river and the Eastern Townships. Numerous smaller paths and trails crisscross the park. For lazy visitors, or those with limited mobility, you can enjoy a wonderful view from the mountain by taking bus route 11, which stops at the lookout on Chemin Remembrance, as well as Beaver Lake. Every Sunday during the summer, thousands of people get together at the monument on avenue du Parc to enjoy the big tam-tam jam.
• Parc Jeanne-Mance, bordered by avenue du Parc, avenue Duluth (with a small extention south as far as avenue des Pins), rue de l'Esplanade and avenue Mont-Royal, directly across from Parc du Mont-Royal. Includes tennis courts, baseball/softball diamonds, a soccer/football pitch, beach volleyball courts, a skating rink in winter. Also a very popular dog-walking venue.
• Parc de l'Ile-de-la-Visitation, rue d'Iberville and boulevard Gouin, (514) 280-6733 (metro Henri-Bourassa, Bus 69 east). This regional park is along the Riviere-des-Prairies. Quiet and enjoyable place to bring a lunch and relax for an afternoon. Good starting point for a cycling tour along the river.

Festivals

Montreal has a bewildering variety of festivals, ranging from one-day ethnic fairs to huge international productions running two weeks or more. They are generally held in the summer and autumn, though increasingly they can be found throughout the year. Here are some of the larger ones:

• Montreal International Jazz Festival[33] The world's largest jazz festival, this festival is a major international event, attracting many big name artists. Many streets in downtown Montreal are closed off to traffic for 2 weeks and several concert stages are set up. There are numerous free outdoor shows and indoor concerts (paid). Late June - early July.
• Just For Laughs Festival[34] Comedy festival with three main components: indoor paid shows (usually standup, but not always), free street theatre/comedy, and a mini film festival called Comedia. June.
• Francopholies[35] A festival celebrating french music. Similarly to the jazz festival, many free outdoor concerts are offered in a section of downtown that is closed off to traffic for a week. June.
• World Film Festival[36] The Festival is open to all cinema trends. The eclectic aspect of its programming makes the Festival exciting for the growing number of participants from the five continents. Every year, films from more than seventy countries, including well-known and first-time filmmakers alike, are selected. There usually are free outdoor projections every night. Late August - early September.
• Festival du Monde Arabe In November, an annual festival celebrating the music and culture of the Arab world takes place in Montreal. Many Arab performers, traditional and modern, take the stage.
• POP Montréal International Music Festival 514-842-1919 [37] A massive feast of up-and-coming bands in a variety of popular genres. In early fall, host to more than 80 events, 300+ artists, a conference, an arts fair, and more! POP Montreal showcases emerging and innovative artists alongside rising international stars and is committed to encouraging vibrant indie communities.
• Festival Mondiale de la bière[38] In Early June yearly: 5 Days of tasting beers, ciders and other beverages from all over Quebec, Canada and further afield. 2004's event boasted over 340 different beers from 130 countries. There is no admission fee (but you can buy a souvenir sampling mug for about $8) and samples typically sell for 3-4 tickets ($1 a ticket) for a 150-200 ml sample. There are also scheduled musical performances and food kiosks.
• Montréal en lumière[39] A relatively new wintertime affair, attempting to transplant the city's festival magic to the cold season. Includes three main categories of activities: food and wine, performing arts, and free activities both indoor and outdoor. February.
• Montreal International Fireworks Competition, in La Ronde amusement park (in Parc Jean-Drapeau), 514-397-2000 info@internationaldesfeuxloto-quebec.com[40] If Montreal feels like a non-stop party during the summer, twice-weekly fireworks events definitely contribute to it. This fantastic festival features full-length fireworks displays, accompanied by orchestral music, by national teams from about a dozen countries around the world. Although the hot seats are inside the La Ronde theme park, the fireworks are visible from pretty much any clear space or rooftop in the center of the city. Pedestrians can watch from Jacques Cartier Bridge, which is closed from 8PM on fireworks nights. Another good spot is the promenade west of the Old Port. $35-45 (seats in La Ronde, free everywhere else). Saturdays 10PM from mid-June to late July, plus Wednesdays 10PM from mid-July on.
• Other film festivals: In addition to the WFF, Montreal has around a dozen film festivals of varying size and scope. Among the better-known ones:
  • Fantasia (asian and fantasy, July) [41]
  • Image + Nation (gay and lesbian, September) [42]
  • Festival du nouveau cinéma de Montréal (new filmmakers, well-known auteurs, new media, October) [43]
  • Cinémania (French cinema with English subtitles, November) [44]
  • Les Rencontres internationales du documentaire de Montréal (November, documentaries) [45]
  • Les Rendez-vous du cinéma québécois (Quebec cinema, February) [46]
• Fete de St-Jean-Baptiste June 24th is Quebec's national holiday (Fête nationale). During the evening, a huge show takes place at Maisonneuve park. This is the show to go to hear Made-in-Quebec music. Free. Street parties can also be found all over the city.

Sports to watch

• Canadiens, Ice hockey, Canada's national winter sport: Bell Centre, 1260 rue De La Gauchetière (metro Lucien-L'Allier or Bonaventure).[47] One of the greatest institutions in Quebec culture. Also called le Tricolore, le bleu-blanc-rouge (both nicknames refer to the team's red-white-blue color scheme), les Glorieux (because of their many championships, the most recent being in 1993) or la Sainte Flanelle (loosely, "holy cloth", because the Canadiens' uniform is revered by fans and, the fans hope, by players). Anglophones commonly refer to the team as the Habs, short for habitants, meaning Quebec rural folk. This nickname probably originates from a misunderstanding of the H in the team logo, which consists of two nested C's enclosing an H (for Club de Hockey Canadien). In recent years, the Canadiens have fallen on hard times in the standings and playoffs, but the arrival of new ownership, management and team-building strategies have given hope for better days. There was no 2004-2005 season due to the NHL lockout, but the dispute was resolved in July 2005 and hockey has now returned. There was considerable enthusiasm as Les Canadiens made it into the 2005-2006 playoff series.
• Alouettes, Football (Canadian Football League). Percival Molson Stadium, avenue des Pins at University (playoffs: Olympic Stadium).[48] A dominant team in recent regular seasons, the Als have only won the Grey Cup once since being reborn in 1996. Molson Stadium is an excellent place to see a game, but tickets can be hard to come by; the team has sold out every games in the facility since moving there in 1998.
• Impact, Association football (soccer): Complexe sportif Claude-Robillard, 1000, rue Émile-Journault (metro Crémazie).[49] Consistent contenders.
• Grand Prix du Canada/Grand Prix of Canada[50] Formula 1 race held every June. The city buzzes with events including several large street parties, notably on Crescent Street downtown.
• Tennis Montreal hosts Master's ATP series event (men) each two years. The other year, Montreal hosts a WTA event (women).[51]

Learn

Montreal has the continent's largest proportion of students, due mainly to its four urban universities and a large number of CEGEPs, a kind of pre-university college and technical school.

Montreal is home to Canada's oldest and most prestigious university, McGill, which many people refer to as "Canada's Harvard" (to the point that joke T-shirts have started to appear, branding Harvard as "America's McGill"). Concordia University is the city's other English-language university and has over 30,000 students. Its student population is generally more multicultural than McGill's, and the school's origins in and continuing emphasis on adult education make it popular for mature students, since it still holds many graduate-level courses at night.

The Université du Québec à Montreal (UQAM) and the Université de Montréal cater mainly to Francophone students. The Université de Montréal is the second largest French-language university in the world, after the Sorbonne in Paris, and is one of the largest research institutions in Canada. The Université de Montréal has two affiliated schools, Polytechnique Montréal (engineering) and HEC Montréal (business school) that offer undergraduate and graduate studies.

Université Laval and Université de Sherbrooke also have campuses in the Montreal area

Work

Illegal factory work paying around $7.50 per hour (Canadian) is fairly easy to find in Montreal, but painting during the summer and moving furniture in June can be better alternatives. McGill and Montreal universities are always in search of research subjects, and so are Montreal's many biotech firms.

If you are a U.S. Citizen aged 18-30 and a full-time student, you can obtain a Canadian work visa valid for 6 months through BUNAC [52]. Students from Britain, New Zealand and Australia can also benefit from BUNAC work programs. As well, if you obtain a degree from a Canadian university, you are eligible to remain in Montreal and work for up to 1 year.

The North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) allows skilled U.S. and Mexican professionals to easily obtain Canadian work visa provided they are qualified in certain professions. The American Consular Services website [53], provides an up to date list of qualifying professions.

For anyone else, Immigration Canada's (CIC) website [54] explains a number of ways foreigners can legally work in Canada. As Montreal is located in the province of Quebec, which has its own immigration policies, persons wishing to work in Montreal will have to go through two processes, once with the Canadian government, then finally with the Quebec government. If you are employed with a foreign company which has a Montreal office, you can seek a transfer. You can also seek a job with a Montreal employer and they can sponsor you for a temporary work visa. If you are a skilled worker (see CIC website) you can immigrate based on your own skills.

Buy

Although Montreal's economy has been booming in recent years, the city remains remarkably affordable compared to other major cities in Canada and the United States. There's shopping for every taste and budget here.

General

Rue Ste-Catherine, between rue Guy and boulevard St-Laurent, has most of the big department and chain stores as well as a few major malls. Avenue Mont-Royal has funky consignment and gothic clothing stores from boulevard St-Laurent to rue St-Denis, and a mixed bag of neighborhood stores, used record shops, and gentrified boutiques heading east towards avenue Papineau. Rue St-Viateur is one of the city's most interesting streets, with its amazingly varied range of businesses crammed into the short stretch between St-Laurent and avenue du Parc. Boul. St-Laurent remains one of the city's prime shopping streets, more or less along its whole length. Just about anything can be found there, with different blocks having different clusters of businesses (Asian groceries and housewares near de La Gauchetière, cheap electronics a little farther up, hip boutiques between Prince-Arthur and des Pins, anything and everything Italian between St-Zotique and Jean-Talon, etc.). Rue Sherbrooke, west of the Autoroute Decarie, boasts an increasingly interesting concentration of largely food-oriented businesses.

Luxury

Trendier boutiques can be found on rue Saint-Denis, north of rue Sherbrooke and south of avenue Mont-Royal. Rue Sherbrooke itself has a number of high-end stores (notably Holt Renfrew) and commercial art galleries in a short strip running approximately from McGill University west to rue Guy. Farther west, Sherbrooke intersects with Greene Ave. in Westmount, which boasts a short but luxurious retail strip. Rue Laurier, between St-Laurent and its western end, is one of the city's prime spots for eating and shopping in high style, though there are still a few affordable spots here and there.

Furniture and antiques

On boul. St-Laurent, a cluster of high-end home furnishing stores has grown up in recent years. It starts roughly at the corner of rue Marie-Anne and is very prominent in the block between Marie-Anne and avenue Mont-Royal, with sparser but still interesting stores as far north as rue St-Viateur. Antique buffs will find interesting stores all over the city, but they'll want to make a special pilgrimage to rue Notre-Dame, heading east from avenue Atwater. Rue Amherst, in the Gay Village, also has a significant concentration of antique dealers.

Eat

Montreal is a culinary mecca and has a huge variety of food options, from diners and fast food to low-cost ethnic restaurants to haute cuisine. The city was recently ranked 2nd best dining city in North America after San Francisco and ahead of New York. The large local Jewish population has contributed local specialties including huge smoked meat sandwiches (beef brisket) and small, crusty bagels, of which the sesame variety is the most popular, poppy a distant second and all others decidedly marginal (worth remembering — Montreal bagels are best when very fresh). Other specialties are "all-dressed" pizza (pepperoni, mushrooms and green peppers), pizza and spaghetti with smoked meat, and Quebecois favorites like split pea soup.

No visit to Montreal is complete without at least one plate of poutine (possibly from a French word meaning "mess"). This unique dish is a plate of French fries drowned in gravy and topped with chewy curds of white cheddar. There are variations on the theme — adding chicken, beef, vegetables or sausage, or replacing the gravy with tomato sauce (poutine italienne). Every Montrealer has their favorite poutine restaurant where you can get "the real stuff."

Many Montreal restaurants allow you to bring your own wine (you'll see an apportez votre vin sign in the window). This may sound like a hassle, but you end up paying much less for wine with dinner if you bring it yourself. Note that if you can bring it yourself, you can't buy it there; conversely, if the restaurant is licensed to sell wine, you can't bring your own. There's usually a SAQ (government liquor store) or a dépanneur (convenience store, with a limited selection of typically inexpensive wine) nearby; ask your waiter. Your waiter will open your wine for you; corkage fees are rare, but don't forget to factor this service into your tip. In some cases, you may be able to bring beer instead of wine, but check first — it's not a given.

To buy your own food or regional products, the Jean-Talon public market, 7075 avenue Casgrain (metro Jean-Talon or De Castelnau), is the place to go. Open daily from 8 AM to 6 PM. The Jean-Talon market is especially noteworthy for its selection of produce; though not strictly part of the market, the many stores lining it on the north and south sides complete it wonderfully with superb selections of cheese, meat and just about anything edible. In particular, a store specializing in Quebec products (Produits du terroir), Le Marché des Saveurs, is located near the southeast corner of the market. On the north side, Fromagerie Hamel has a terrific selection of cheeses. The surrounding streets are heavily Italian-flavored and feature a number of excellent grocery stores, butchers, bakeries and restaurants. Across town, the Atwater Market is also superb, though quite different from (and much smaller than) Jean-Talon. Here, you'll find the city's best butchers, as well as good selections of cheese, fish and produce. Located on avenue Atwater, just south of rue Notre-Dame (metro Lionel-Groulx).

Separate bills ("addition" in French) are common, and you may be asked ensemble ou séparément? (together or separately?) The standard tip for acceptable restaurant service is 15%, and is not included. The calculation is less easy now that the combination of the provincial and federal sales taxes has dropped to 14%, but at least that figure gives a rough idea of what the tip should be.

Never call a waiter "garçon"! Use "monsieur" or "mademoiselle".

Budget

This guide uses the following price ranges for a typical meal for one, including drink:
Budget Mid-range Splurge	Under $10 $10-$30 Over $30

• La Banquise, 994 rue Rachel Est (metro Mont-Royal), 514-525-2415. Open 24 hours. La Banquise consistently tops locals' lists for best poutine in town (perhaps because it's open for post-bar-hopping munchfests when judgment is slightly impaired). The clientele is hip and clubworn, and the staff is friendly. Poutine makes up most of the menu, but if you insist there are hamburgers and other fast-food fare, as well as a bar. $6-10.
• La Binerie, 367 avenue Mont-Royal Est (metro Mont-Royal), 514-285-9078. A small unpretentious eatery that became a legend. It features traditional meals for under $10, especially fèves aux lard (beans cooked overnight with bacon).
• Bombay Mahal, 1001 rue Jean-Talon Ouest (metro L'Acadie). Excellent dirt-cheap Indian cuisine.
• Café Presto, 1244 Stanley (Peel metro), (514) 879-5877. The best downtown deal for a very inexpensive and very satisfying casual/cozy Italian fare (main courses are all 3,95$ CDN. Calculate approx. 10$ CDN if you add a glass of wine and an espresso). Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm & 4:30pm–9pm, closed Sundays. Very busy during lunchtime on weekdays. Arrive before noon or after 1:30pm to avoid the longest lines. Cash only (no credit or debit cards, but there are a few ATMs on the same block).
• Café Crystal, 1216 Ave. Union, (514) 866-3338. Light meals for breakfast and lunch. $5-$7, and close to the St. Catherine St. shopping district.
• Euro-Déli, 3619 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Sherbrooke). Very cozy deli/cafe in the middle of the trendy section of St-Laurent. Excellent fresh pasta, meatballs, lasagna, salads, etc. Very affordable.
• Maamm Bolduc!, 4351 de Lorimier, (514) 527-3884. Quebecois food include what just may be the best poutine in town, served in a dozen different varieties ranging from traditional to bourguignonne (with mince, mushrooms and red wine sauce). The portions are huge and the misnamed $7.50 petit is plenty for most ordinary mortals.
• Maison du kebab, 820 avenue Atwater (metro Lionel-Groulx). Persian. With their meal for two, you'll have enough for three!
• Mazurka, 64 rue Prince-Arthur Est. A firm favorite with students, serves up huge portions of Polish favorites like pierogis and bigos (sauerkraut and sausage stew). Even at dinner, a set of soup, main and coffee goes for just $7.75.
• Pushap, 5195 rue Paré (metro Namur), 514-737-4527. Great vegetarian Punjabi food. The thali plate makes a big dinner for about $5; be sure to try some of their excellent desserts - they double as a take-out sweet shop.
• Schwartz's, 3895 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Sherbrooke). Famous delicatessen for smoked meat, served up in huge, juicy, peppery slabs. Cash only. No reservations. Expect to wait for a table at most times, but the queue moves fast. Smoked meat sandwich $4.75. Open daily 9 AM-midnight or later.

Mid-range

• Chu Chai, 4088 rue Saint-Denis (metro Sherbrooke), 514-843-4194, [55]. M-Sa 12PM-3PM, 5PM-10PM, Su 12PM-3PM, 5PM-9PM. A treat for vegetarians, vegans, and those who love them, Chu Chai specializes in Thai cuisine made with soy or vegetable protein to simulate meat. The roast "duck" is delicious, and the tom yum gai (lemongrass soup with "chicken") warms the heart. A bistro and takeout counter next door called "Chuch" has the same dishes in a more casual setting, and is "bring your own wine". $15-20 (per person, not including wine).
• Futenbulle, 273 rue Bernard Ouest (metro Rosemont), 514-276-0473. A unique restaurant serving an incredible variety of beers from all over the world, and a selection of venison and other game dishes - often made up modestly as venison steaks, caribou burgers or boar sandwich.
• Le 2, 2 rue Sherbrooke Est (metro Saint-Laurent), 514-843-8881. Tu-W 5PM-11PM, Th 5PM-1AM, F-Sa 5PM-3AM, Su 6PM-11PM. Le 2 (pronounced luh DOO) provides what it calls "international tapas": small, satisfying appetizer-sized plates of grilled fish and meat as well as salads, fries, and breads with spreads. One or two makes a light meal, but it's more fun to get a few plates and share them with friends over cocktails. The space isn't large, but there's an airiness to it - you don't feel squished here. A great place to start, or end, a bar-hopping evening on Saint-Laurent. $8-12 (per plate).
• Ouzeri, 4690 rue Saint-Denis (metro Laurier), 514-845-1336. A wonderful Greek restaurant that is somewhat off the beaten path. While it is on Saint-Denis, it is far away from the shops and restaurants for which the street is well known. Ouzeri is particularly fun in the evening. Prices are very reasonable.
• Au Petit Extra, 1690 rue Ontario Est (metro Papineau), 514-598-0709. Exquisite French bistro cuisine at reasonable price, relaxed and friendly atmosphere that is very popular with locals. Excellent selection of wines.
• Thaïlande, 88 rue Bernard Ouest (metro Rosemont). Great Thai. Good bang for the buck for lunch.
• Soupe Soup, 80 avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke). Best soup and sandwich in town. Not cheap though but great quality and definitely original.
• Claude Postel, 433 rue Saint-Vincent (metro Champ-de-Mars). Amazing food, somewhat cheap for lunch. Definitely not a snack bar though.
• L'Académie, 4051 rue Saint-Denis (metro Sherbrooke). Italian food in a trendy decor. Comfortable, affordable, bring your own wine, and conveniently located beside an SAQ (Quebec liquor store). St-Denis at Duluth.
• Au Pied de Cochon, 536 avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke), (514) 281-1114. Modern restaurant with casual ambiance. Huge meals. The place to go for lamb and original Quebec cuisine for a reasonable price; the poutine with foie gras is particularly (in)famous.
• Eduardos, 404 avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke). Good Italian restaurant, bring your wine!
• Aux Vivres, 4631 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Mont-Royal). Alternative vegetarian cuisine.
• Byblos, 1499 avenue Laurier Est (metro Laurier), (514) 523-9396. One of the best unknown restaurants in Montreal. Prices are amazingly reasonable for the food quality. Iranian food.
• Khyber Pass, 506 avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke). Afghan.
• Le Roi du Plateau, 51 rue Rachel Ouest and Chez Doval, 150 rue Marie-Anne Est, are arguably the best of the many Portuguese grill restaurants in town.

Splurge

• La Queue de Cheval, 1221 boulevard René-Lévesque Ouest (metro Lucien-L'Allier), 514-390-0090, [56]. La Queue de Cheval is for serious steak aficionados. It is quite possibly the best steak in North America. The ambiance is excellent, the service is absolutely incredible (they literally wait on you), the food (even non-steak items) is to-die-for. The downside is that it's not cheap and will run you $75-120 a person.
• Toqué!, 900 place Jean-Paul-Riopelle (metro Square-Victoria), 514-499-2084, [57]. In 1993, chef Normand Laprise put Montreal cuisine on the map with this landmark restaurant, and after more than 10 years it's still going strong in a new location. Combining the latest trends in fine dining with local and regional produce, the chefs create spectacularly complex dishes in tiny but strangely satisfying portions. The house specialty is an 8-course surprise menu, made up of many small dishes that continue to delight over and over. This restaurant will take a bite out of your wallet, but serious foodies will find it worth the reputation. $30-50 ($80 menu, $100 with wine).
• Milos, 5357 avenue du Parc (metro Laurier), 514-272-3522. Arguably one of Montreal's finest restaurants, Milos specializes in Greek seafood. You can order a wide variety of fresh fish by the pound, sample one of their many seafood choices or try the lamb. Milos' hallmark is the freshness of the food served and the quality of the service offered. Reservations are only essential during world-class events (Formula 1, Jazz and Comedy festivals) when Milos is overrun by visiting celebrities. Milos is also a bit on the pricey side - dinner for two with wine can easily cost over $100 per person - but dining here is an exquisite experience. Best tomatoes ever - a testament to how even the most modest ingredient is considered.
• Vents du Sud, 323 rue Roy Est (metro Sherbrooke), (514) 281-9913. Bring your own wine. French restaurant with Basque country meals (St-Jean-de-Luz, Biarritz). Duck and Cassoulet exquisite.

Drink

Quality wine and liquor can only be purchased at SAQ shops, most of which are open until 6pm Sunday - Wednesday and 8 or 9pm on weekends; the smaller SAQ Express outlets are open daily from 11am to 10pm, but selection is restricted to the SAQ's most popular items. Beer, and a small selection of lower-quality wine are also sold at convenience stores (dépanneurs) and grocery stores (not what you'd usually bring to a dinner party, but sometimes drinkable — it's plonk that has been imported in bulk and bottled and sometimes blended in Quebec and known as "piquette" by the locals). All retail alcohol sales stop at 11pm and bars and clubs stop serving at 3am.

Montrealers are largely unaware of how blessed they are by the selection of beer to be found in the humble corner store. Two local breweries in particular are world-class: McAuslan (brands include St-Ambroise and Griffon) and Unibroue (Belgian-style ales such as Maudite, La Fin du Monde, etc.; the U and U2 lagers are rather ordinary). Boréale also makes a good if unspectacular range of brews. Other micros and imports jostle for shelf space with the mass-market stuff; visitors with the time and inclination would do well to sample and to shop around a little, as selection will vary from store to store. The SAQ does not carry domestic beer, and generally has few imports that can't be found elsewhere. Again, selection varies by outlet, so it can pay to shop around, but in general the SAQ is simply not the place to buy beer.

Bars

Montreal has three main strips for bar-hopping. rue Crescent, in the western part of downtown, caters mostly to Anglophones and tourists. It tends to be trendy and expensive. Extremely busy when McGill and Concordia students are back in town for a new session. boulevard Saint-Laurent, especially between rue Sherbrooke and avenue des Pins, has trendy clubs and bars with more of a Francophone clientele. Farther up St-Laurent it's relatively downscale and linguistically mixed. rue St-Denis between Sherbrooke and de Maisonneuve is the strip with the strongest Francophone feel. There are also many good bars away from the main strips — you should never have to line up to go have a drink, because there's virtually unlimited choice.

• SAT (Société des arts technologiques), 1195 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Saint-Laurent), ☎ +1-514-844-2033 (sat@sat.qc.ca), http://www.sat.qc.ca/. M-F 5PM-10PM, Sa-Su various. This one-of-a-kind venue is supported by the province of Quebec and the federal government to display and promote digital art. With high ceilings and low couches, it has the feel of a funky uberhip techno club, and in fact there is quite a bit of great club music on weekend nights. But there's also fascinating computer art installations going on at all times, with some video and live performances. A great place to meet people in Montreal. $4.50 draft beer, $5 well drinks, $5-25 cover after 10PM.

• Pub Sainte-Élizabeth, 1412 rue Sainte-Élizabeth (metro Saint-Laurent). Best terrasse for a drink. Feels like a greenhouse.

• Foufounes Électriques, 87 rue Sainte-Catherine Est (metro Saint-Laurent), ☎ 514-844-5539, http://www.foufounes.qc.ca/. 3PM-3AM every day. The name is a neverending source of comedy for Montrealers and visitors alike, chiefly because of the stark difference in meaning between the French and French-Canadian interpretations of the term "foufounes." To locals, i.e. French-Canadians, the term is simply an endearing reference to one's posterior. However, to the French, the term is a rather explicit reference to female genitalia, which is always worth a few laughs, especially with the "electric" adjective attached. But "les Foufs," as it's called by locals, is more than just a funny name: it's ground zero for Montreal's rock-and-roll scene. The cavernous bar hosts shows from local bands as well as lots of touring shows from around the globe. Reasonable prices and a down-to-earth attitude make Foufounes popular with residents and visitors alike. $3 draft beer, $4 well drinks.

• Les Bobards, 4328 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Mont-Royal). Good happy hour. Great dancing on very diversified music on Friday nights.

• Bily Kun, 354 avenue Mont-Royal Est (metro Mont-Royal), ☎ 514-845-5392, http://www.bilykun.com/. 3PM-3AM every day. Bily Kun — the name is Czech, meaning "White Horse" — is an institution in Montreal's Plateau district. Dim lighting, candles, and a huge bar give an intimate atmosphere, but Bily Kun gets hopping after 10PM with Montreal's hippest Francophones practically every night. Some of the area's top DJs spin experimental or loungey techno, but there's really no dance floor to speak of. Bar staff is kooky and nice, even if no one can quite explain the ostrich heads lining the walls. Upstairs O Patro Vys from the same owners frequently hosts small shows and events. $4.50 draft beers, $5 well drinks.

• Old Dublin, metro McGill, ☎ 514-861-4448. 11:30AM-3AM every day. Don't let the Vieux Dublin sign outside fool you — this pub is as Irish as it gets. There's not a lot of Emerald Island schlock around, but the pints are good, and homestyle meals for lunch and dinner really hit the spot. There's live music on weekends on the miniscule stage, but during the week it's quiet and comfy. Staff is polite and nice. $6 draft beer.

• Madhatter Saloon, 1220 rue Crescent (metro Peel), ☎ 514-987-9988, http://www.madhattersaloon.com/. Located In the sunny hot spot of Montreal Canada, the Madhatter has to be the least trendiest bar on a street know for trendy bars ... yes sir, the hatter is now on Crescent Street, people beware. Having held such events as Irish wakes, Golf for Booze, and All You Can Eat Chilli and Beer, the hatter prides itself in stuff most wouldn't.

• McKibbin's Irish Pub, 1426 rue Bishop (metro Guy-Concordia), ☎ 514-288-1850. Being next door to Concordia U. may or may not be a point in its favor, but there's no denying that this friendly pub is a great place for a pint. The food is above-average for a pub, too. McKibbin's is known for their ladies night every Wednesday with its all night open bar ($5 cover for girls and $20 cover for guys).

• Hurley's, 1225 rue Crescent (metro Lucien-L'allier or Guy-Concordia), ☎ 514-861-4111, http://www.hurleysirishpub.com/. . Probably the best Irish pub in Montreal, with live traditional music every night and excellent food at fair prices. There's an upstairs as well for the busy nights, and a part of the pub is non-smoking, in addition to outdoor patios in the front and back. Very cozy with a highly authentic feel, and friendly professional staff.

• Bar St-Sulpice, 1680 rue Saint-Denis (metro Berri-Uqam), ☎ 514-844-9458. A large bar with three floors, each with a separate vibe, and music to match. If the weather is nice you should sit in the sprawling patio in the back.

• Quai des Brumes, 4481 rue St-Denis (metro Mont-Royal), ☎ +1 514 499-0467. Very small and comfy watering hole in the heart of St Denis near Parc du Mont-Royal. Velvet drapes, wood finish, and a chrome bar. Sometimes has live entertainment, which becomes a very intimate experience due to the small size.

• Casa Del Popolo/La Sala Rossa, 4873 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Laurier), ☎ 514-284-3804, http://www.casadelpopolo.com/. Established in September 2000, Casa Del Popolo is Montréal's only family-run neighborhood vegetarian hot-spot! Part fair-trade café, part music venue, part bar, part foozball hall... The Casa and its sister venue, La Sala Rossa, frequently host touring indie artists. Shows are cheap, or even free. Try the goat cheese sandwich!

• Le Réservoir, 9 avenue Duluth Est (metro Mont-Royal), ☎ 514-849-7779. Brewpub. Very good snacks and tapas in a beautiful decor, there's a second floor upstairs.

• Dieu du Ciel, 29 avenue Laurier West (metro Laurier), ☎ 514-490-9555, http://www.dieuduciel.com/. One of the best brew pubs in Montreal, it has a nice atmosphere for discussions between friends.

• L'Amère à Boire, 2049 rue Saint-Denis (metro Sherbrooke), ☎ 514-282-7448. Fine brew pub in the Quartier Latin, the beer is consistently good.

• Le Cheval Blanc, 809 rue Ontario Est (metro Sherbrooke), ☎ 514-522-0211. Good brewpub located a few blocks East of busy rue Saint-Denis.

• Les 3 Brasseurs, Multiple locations, ☎ 514-845-1660. Brewpub and restaurant chain.

• Brutopia, 1219 Crescent (metro Peel), ☎ 514-393-9277. Brewpub on the busy Crescent strip. English-speaking college crowd.

• Bifteck, 3702 boul. St-Laurent. Some of the cheapest beer in town, served with some of the saltiest popcorn in all of Creation, consumed by bohemians and students from near and far (and the occasional honest-to-God rock star). Great place to start or end a St-Laurent pub crawl: to the south, you'll find trendy, relatively expensive places; to the north, some of the best dive bars anywhere. Or you can just stay and get tanked.

• Go Go Lounge, 3682 boul. St-Laurent. It's on the trendier part of St-Laurent, it looks trendy outwardly, the martini menu is certainly hip and happenin', but there's something missing: attitude. Anyone is made to feel welcome here, and if there's a velvet rope and a doorman, it's only because the place really is full.

• Else's, 156 rue Roy Est. Small, cozy space with a great selection of draft beers and fine whiskies. Technically, it's a restaurant, but you're better off eating elsewhere and just picking at the mandatory nosh (bowl of olives, etc.).

• Vinyl, 2109 Bleury (Bleury just south of Sherbrooke). 10PM-3AM every day. Vinyl is a small, intimate club with frequent specials including $3 Rhum-n-Tings on Sunday nights and a diverse range of music from Reggae to Techno on different nights. Also, couches in the bathroom and an outdoor terrace around the back. $5 draft beer, $3 drink specials.

• Cafe Hookah, 1699 St-Denis. Smoking fruit-flavoured tobacco in an Arabic water pipe (no, there's no weed) while sipping a Grand Marnier is a fine way to spend the evening. A pipe is $6.50, you can smoke it alone or share it with a few people. They won't replace the coal though, so a pipe doesn't last very long, but they justify this by saying it makes it (comparatively) cheap to sample lots of flavours from their extensive menu.

Dance clubs

Dance clubs can be found all over the downtown area, hotspots being on St. Laurent and Crescent St.

• Saphir 3699 St. Laurent. Goth and punk nights on two floors, usually very crowded.

After hours clubs

After hours clubs, for those who aren't tired out by 3am, are open 2am-10am. They don't serve alcohol.

• Stereo 858 West St. Catherine.[58] Electronica and other live shows. Mostly gay/lesbian crowd.
• Aria [59] Electronica and hip-hop. Built in a former theater complex, the Aria has two mid-sized main rooms separated by a narrow staircase, which can sometimes make you feel like there's too many people.
• Circus 915 East St. Catherine.[60] Electronica and hip-hop. The most recent and most luxuriously decorated after-hour in Montreal. Lots of space and hidden corners. A great place to end the night if you're still not tired after 3 am.
• Club Vatican 1432 rue Crescent.

Gay and lesbian

Montreal is an extremely inviting destination for gay and lesbian tourists, and it is arguably the most gay-friendly city in North America. Canada's contributions to gay rights have recently become widely known, but Quebec was the first province in Canada to pass a non-discrimination law for sexual orientation and to provide same-sex civil unions. Same-sex marriage is legal in Quebec (neither residency nor citizenship are required for a marriage licence, but there is a three-week waiting period after you receive the licence). Canadian and Quebec immigration law allow residents to sponsor their same-sex partners or spouses.

Montreal itself is a very safe, open, and inviting city. It has the largest gay village in North America (rue Sainte-Catherine from rue Saint-Hubert to av. Papineau - metro Beaudry, whose entrance is marked with rainbow pillars). Montreal's pride celebration, Divers-Cité (last week of July, first week of August) is the second-largest in North America after Toronto's.

Montreal has as many gay and lesbian bars as San Francisco, and every October on Canadian Thanksgiving (Columbus Day in the U.S.) hosts the Black and Blue circuit party, attracting thousands to enjoy the thrill of harder dance music and hordes of pretty, shirtless men.

Trendy gay establishments include:

• Unity Ste-Catherine and Montcalm
• Sky Sainte-Catherine and Alexandre-de-Sève
• Parking Ste-Catherine and Amherst
• Le Drugstore 1366 Ste-Catherine. A more casual and attracts a large lesbian clientele for happy hour on Fridays.
• Stud Sainte-Catherine and Papineau. Caters to a male leather clientele, though not exclusively leather
• Aigle Noir Sainte-Catherine and Panet. Caters a male leather clientele.
• Cabaret Mado Sainte-Catherine and Wolfe. A drag show with outrageous spectacles every night, run by the city's chief drag queen, Mado Lamotte.
• Station 1160 (formerly Agora) René-Lévesque and Mackay (metro Lucien-L'Allier). Outside the Village, quiet, friendly neighbourhood bar in the west end of downtown.
• Mystique Stanley between Sainte-Catherine and De Maisonneuve (metro Peel). Outside the Village, quiet, friendly neighbourhood bar in the west end of downtown.

To find out everything about what's going on, pick up a copy of Fugues, the free monthly gay magazine with a complete listing of what's on where. You can get it at Priape, the gay sex shop and unofficial information clearinghouse in the Village on Sainte-Catherine between de la Visitation and Panet. Fugues is in French; if you don't read French, ask the staff at Priape for help.

From July 25th to August 5 2006, Montreal held the first world Outgames.

Sleep

Budget

• Abri du voyageur [61] A warm and friendly hotel for the budget-conscious traveller in downtown Montreal ($42 CAD/ night and more)
• Alternative Hostel, 358, rue Saint-Pierre (metro Place-d'Armes), 514-282-8069 email: info@auberge-alternative.qc.ca [62] Unique layout and friendly staff in the old area of Montreal; kitchen and laundry facilities. $19/night for a bed in a dorm.
• Armor Manoir Sherbrooke, 157, rue Sherbrooke (metro Sherbrooke).[63] US$ 50-75
• HI-Montréal, 1030, rue Mackay (metro Lucien L'Allier).[64] Dorms from CAD$25.75 (HI member) CAD$30 (non member), 1 and 2 bed rooms CAD$65 (HI member) CAD$75 (non member)
• Hotel St-Denis, 1254, rue Saint-Denis (metro Berri-UQAM). US$60 - 150

Mid-range

• Absolument Montreal B&B, 1790 rue Amherst (metro Berri), toll free 1-866-360-1351.[65] Be a guest star and enjoy a great location, a classy and comfortable cinema-themed bedroom with private bathroom, kitchenette, luxury linens, flat screen LCD cable TV, DVD/CD player, a private terrace, a garden with jacuzzi and a fabulous gourmet breakfast served till noon. Rates from CAD89 (USD80). We are located right in the heart of the city, a comfortable 15-minute walk to downtown shopping and historic Old Montreal.
• Hotel-studio Anne ma soeur Anne, 4119, rue Saint-Denis (metro Mont-Royal). Brand-new boutique studio-hotel. $60-150 Budget, superior, and large suites.
• A la Bonne Heure, 4425, rue Saint-Hubert (metro Mont-Royal).[66] Charming new B&B just above Parc Lafountaine, two blocks from Mont Royal shopping, restaurants, nightlife. Only 4 rooms, so book ahead. US$60-100 double occupancy.
• Hotel de Paris, 901, rue Sherbrooke Est (metro Sherbrooke), 514-522-6861.[67] Private bathrooms, cable TV, telephone, air-conditioning. $75 (single room, seasonal; suites $175).
• Hotel Lord Berri, 1199 Rue Berri, 1-888-363-0363. Located within walking distance of Vieux-Montreal, Chinatown and Saint-Laurent, and one block away from the Berri-UQAM Metro stop that touches three of the four lines. Average cost US$75, plus US$10 parking per day.
• Chez Francois B&B, 4031, Rue Papineau, 514-239-4638.[68] For budget travellers with a taste for luxury. Located in the lower Plateau area, close to Duluth restaurants, Saint-Laurent nightlife and more. Five rooms in a typical Montreal walk up, lovingly maintained by Francois, an accommodating host who has excellent suggestions for tourists, as well as preparing wonderful breakfasts which are included in his very reasonable rates, from 85-140 CAD. An especially good deal for couples is Room #4, includes a jacuzzi bath for only 140 CAD.
• Major hotel chains like Four Seasons [69], Holiday Inn [70], and Delta Hotels [71] have locations in the heart of downtown Montreal.
• Sandman Hotel, 999 rue de Sérigny, Montréal-Longueuil, QC J4K 2T1, Tel: 450 670-3030, Toll-free: 1.800.SANDMAN [72] less than 50 metres (150 ft) from métro Longueuil–Université-de-Sherbrooke station, 5 minutes (2 stops) traffic stress free ride to Berri-UQAM station in the city centre.

Splurge

• Auberge de La Fontaine, 1301, rue Rachel Est. Phone.: 514 597-0166, (Toll free:(800) 597-0597).[73] Fun B&B with 25 rooms. Located on the Plateau and across the street from Parc Lafontaine. CND$ 100-280.
• Montreal Intercontinental, 360, rue Saint-Antoine Ouest (metro Place-d'Armes).
• Auberge Vieux Port, 97, rue de la Commune Est (metro Champ-de-Mars).
• Hotel St-Paul, 355, rue McGill (metro Square-Victoria)[74] is a recently renovated hotel in the heart of Old Montreal. Ultra-modern and sleek design.
• Montreal Hyatt Desjardins
• Hotel Godin,10 West Sherbrooke, 514 843-6000, [75]. A new modern hotel with great design. ideally located near hotspot boulevard St-Laurent.
• Loews Hotel Vogue, 1425 Rue de la Montagne (Metro: Peel), [76]. Close to the corner of rue Ste-Catherine in the centre of city's main shopping district.
• Le Saint Sulpice, 414 Rue Saint Sulpice, 1-877-SULPICE [77]. Four star botique hotel in the Old Town offering four types of luxury suites.
• Hotel Nelligan, 106 Saint Paul St. W. [78]
• Hotel Gault, 449 Rue Sainte-Hélène, 1-866-904-1616. Feels like you're stepping into Architectural Digest with ultra-modern furniture and rooms. Located in a converted warehouse in Old Montreal. Very helpful staff. [79]
• The Ritz-Carlton, Montréal, 1228 Sherbrooke St. W., 514-842-4212 [80]]. Arguably Montréal's finest accomodations. Be sure not to miss the baby ducklings in the garden.

Contact

Montreal has two area codes, the long-standing 514, and 538 (as of October 2006).

Photocopy shops often have internet terminals available, as do many cafés and some bookstores. The Bell phone company has installed public internet terminals (cash or credit cards) in McGill and Berri-UQAM metro stations; there is also a long-standing internet café (minus the café part) at mezzanine level in the rue Guy entrance of Guy-Concordia metro. The Grande Bibliothèque has many internet terminals; a library card (free to Quebec residents with proof of address) is required, but visitors can get free temporary access by asking a librarian. The organization Île Sans Fil [81] provides free wireless Internet in cafes and other locations throughout the city.

Stay safe

Although Montreal is Canada's second largest city, it shares Canada's low violent crime rates; therefore, problems are unlikely. Travellers used to big cities in North America and Europe should find Montreal pleasantly safe. However, property crimes are remarkably high (24,088 cars were stolen in Montreal in 2002), and you should make sure to lock your doors and keep your valuables with you.

Part of Montreal's rue Ste. Catherine downtown corridor is arguably the grittiest part of the city, especially east of Place des Arts. There are homeless people panhandling during the Summer and Fall. There are also a lot of strip clubs, with the ensuing crowds of rowdy men and occasional pockets of street prostitution.

Although this area is a mecca for shopping, conditions are ideal for pickpockets. Internet forums describe how these rings work in large teams, using spotters in the major department stores (and ATM machines), and then following the victim to set up for the specialist team. In one incident, the victim was observed shopping by what appeared to be competing rings. In an apparent race to be first, she was jostled immediately in the next store, with an uncharacteristic boldness. The police would not take information by phone. The store clerks were indifferent. Remember to be alert, and take precautions.

If you're concerned about safety on the Metro, use the first metro car where the driver is. Emergency intercoms are on every metro car. Emergency phone booths are on every platform throughout the metro system. The Metro is generally known to be a very safe subway system compared to most in North America.

For emergencies call 9-1-1.

Respect

As in the rest of Quebec, language politics and Quebec sovereignty are contentious issues in Montreal.

The first language in Quebec is French; making an attempt to use the language is a great way to show respect for the people there, whether or not they can speak English. However, many younger, bilingual Francophones in the city tend not to have much patience for French poorly spoken, and will often resort to English in reply, regardless of your intentions. And in predominantly Anglophone establishments, initiating conversation in French if you are not a Francophone is generally regarded as silly at best and gauche at worst.

See also Quebec#Talk, Quebec#Respect and the French phrasebook.

Get out

Montreal makes an excellent entryway for visiting other cities and destinations in Quebec. Quebec City, about 3 hours to the north east on Highway 40, is almost but not quite a day trip — you'll want to stay over, anyway. Mont Tremblant lies less than 2 hours north in the Laurentides, while the Eastern Townships are about the same distance straight east. If you're continuing to Ontario, Ottawa is 2 hours west by car, and Toronto is more distant, but still doable, 6 hour drive. Boston is a five and a half hour drive to the southeast. A really nice resort is located 1.5-2 hours west in the countryside of Quebec, known as Chateau Montebello, located in Montebello. Between December and March there is good downhill skiing in the Laurentians and in the Eastern Townships. There are some very good night-skiing centers such as Ski Bromont and Mont-St-Sauveur.

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