From Wikitravel

Nicosia, known as Lefkosia (Λευκωσία) in Greek, Lefkoşa (Lefkosha) in Turkish, is the centrally located capital of Cyprus.

Contents 1 Understand 2 Get in 3 Get around 4 See 5 Do 6 Buy, Eat & Drink 7 Sleep 8 Get out

Understand

Nicosia is the world's last divided capital. The barbed wire and guardtowers of the Green Line cut the town in two, with the northern side being the capital of the self-proclaimed Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus and the southern half being the capital of the Republic of Cyprus.

Politics aside, Nicosia is a little short on both the archaeological treasure troves and beaches with pulsating nightlife that bring most visitors to Cyprus. But the Old City with its museums and churches is pleasant enough, and precisely due to the comparative lack of tourists, the city retains more of an authentically Cypriot air than the resorts of the southern coast. Fantastic little cafes are open to invite you in for a Cypriot coffee, so just walk around and see the many woodworking shops that are deep within the City, and take a walk down to the Green Line, the boundary that now divides North from South.

This article covers only the southern Greek-Cypriot side of the city; see Nicosia (North) for the Turkish-Cypriot capital on the northern side.

Get in

Nicosia's airport has been closed off since the partition of the country. Nearly all visitors arrive via the southern highway from Larnaca (43 km) and Limassol (83 km).

Until recently, entry from Northern Cyprus to south Nicosia was impossible. However, due to a new EU-directive it is now possible for EU citizens to cross the border at official crossing points, regardless of their point of entry to the island. It should be noted however, that this pertains to EU citizens only, and there have been cases of people from other parts of the world being turned back at the crossing point.

Get around

Greater Nicosia sprawls for kilometers on end, but the Old City is small enough to navigate on foot. Traditional Greek Cypriot shops line the streets of the Old City, and with very narrow footpaths/walkways, traffic must always be observed.

See

Nicosia's sights are concentrated in the Old City, surrounded by a picturesque star-shaped city wall whose moat has been converted into a pleasant park. Wandering around the Old City is an interesting experience in itself, although some buildings (esp. those near the Green Line) are derelict and crumbling. Note that many sights in the Old City close early, so try to get an early start — also a good idea for beating the heat in the summer.

• Cyprus Museum - showcases the best of Cypriot archaeology from the 9th millennium BCE to the end of Antiquity. Located just to the west of the city wall, in between the Tripoli bastion and the municipal gardens. Open 9 am - 5 pm weekdays and Saturdays, 10 am - 1 pm Sundays and public holidays, closed New Year's, Easter and Christmas Days. Admission £1.50, 20% discount for groups of 10 or more. There is a convenient café on the grounds.

• Byzantine Museum (Archbishop Kyprianou Square), easily spotted thanks to the giant statue of Archbishop Makarios standing outside, has one of the world's best collections of Orthodox icons and other artworks, mostly ranging from the 9th to the 16th century. Open 9 AM to 4:30 PM weekdays, 8 AM to noon Saturdays, closed Sunday. Entry £1.

• The National Struggle Museum (Kiniras 7) documents the history of the Cypriot independence movement (1955-1959), with a rather positive spin on the EOKA guerrilla movement. Open 8 AM to noon daily, entry a token £0.25.

• House of the Dragoman Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios (Patriarch Gregoriou St, tel. 02-302447) is a beautifully restored 18th-century building now housing an ethnological museum. Open 8 AM to 2 PM weekdays, 9 AM to 1 PM Saturdays, closed Sunday. Entry £0.75.

• Famagusta Gate (Leoforos Athinon) is the only one of Nicosia's three old gates within the southern sector, and it has now been turned into the Lefkosia Municipal Cultural Centre, used for various exhibitions and performances.

Do

Explore the smaller City Streets, small enough to easily do this on foot. Visit a traditional Cypriot Cafe, and sample a Cypriot Coffee. Greet the locals. Make sure you visit the green Line and view all of the City from the Watch tower, into both North and South Nicosia.

Buy, Eat & Drink

The area near the Plateia Elefterias entrance into the Old City, via Leoforos Evagorou I, has been converted into a pedestrian zone, full of smart little cafes, restaurants and boutiques.

Sleep

Get out

• You can cross over to Northern Cyprus and the northern side of Nicosia via the checkpoint near the Ledra Palace hotel, on the western side of the city wall.

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