From Wikitravel

Ohrid is a large town in Southern Republic of Macedonia, on the shore of Lake Ohrid. A town of vast history and heritage, it was made a UNESCO heritage site in 1980. Ohrid is without a doubt the jewel in Macedonia's crown. Nestled between high mountains up to 2.800m and Lake Ohrid, it is not only a place of historic magnificence but also of outstanding natural beauty.

Contents 1 Get in 2 Get around 3 See 3.1 Important churches 3.2 Smaller churches 3.3 Other sites 4 Do 5 Buy 6 Eat 7 Drink 8 Sleep 9 Stay safe 10 Get out

Get in

There is a regular bus service from Bitola and Skopje. The bus from Skopje takes approximately three hours. Ohrid also has an international airport about 14 km from city center which connects Ohrid with Skopje, Belgrade, Ljubljana and several western European cities. [1]. The airport works only on the summer!

Get around

See

Aside of the lake, Ohrid is most famous for its ancient churches, basilicas and monasteries where Saints Klement and Naum (students of Cyril and Methodus) wrote their teachings and formulated the Cyrillic alphabet used in Macedonia, Bulgaria, Russia, Serbia and Montenegro and the most countries of the former Soviet Union. Most of these churches charge an entry which for tourists is normally double that what locals pay, but is still worth it. It is a good idea to cover up when entering a church, but most locals will understand the inconveniences involved during a hot Macedonian Summer. There is also a wonderful ancient walled fortress at the top of the city. Churches to visit include:

Important churches

• St.Sophia church 11th c. - Cathedral of Ohrid archbishops. Fourth basilica built on this same spot (the oldest one being a roman basilica (courthouse)). Present church was built in 1035 by archbishop Lav, front facade with the towers and the open galleries was built in 1317 by archbishop Gregory. The side porch was added when the church was turned into a mosque by the Turks. Inside is the biggest composition of 11th century frescoes preserved in the world. The main altar has scenes from the old testament and an emotional procession of angels bowing to Virgin Mary. The side altars have a fresco of the 40 mortars (roman soldiers left to freeze because they didn't want to give up Christianity) which is very rarely depicted (in the left altar) and (in the right altar) portraits of Patriarchs from Constantinople, Jerusalem and Antioch, archbishops from Ohrid and Roman Popes (Ohrid archbishopcy always flirted with the catholics, so it would keep its important position with the Orthodox church). The small square in front of it was the main forum in ancient times. 100 denars

• St.Bogorodica Perivlepta 13th c. - The church was built and painted in 1295. It is dedicated to Virgin Mary, Perivlepta is a attribute given to her meaning the one that can see everything, can hear everything and knows everything. The benefactor was Progon Zgur, son in law of the byzantine emperor Andronik II.

The church was painted by Mihailo and Eftihie, two young painters. Their work shows that the renaissance begin inside the Byzantine art long before Gioto. The frescoes they painted have all the elements of the renaissance art except perspective. Important frescoes: (eastern wall) the portraits of St.Klement and Konstantin Kavasila (archbishop of Ohrid), detailed portraits with personal features; Lamentation of Christ, painted with many emotions, Virgin Mary is about to faint, a woman next is holding her, women are pulling their hair from pain in disbelief, on the right notice a woman acting reasonably and trying to stop another from pulling her hair, angels above the whole scene are crying, in the left corner notice a group of women doing what normal people do gossiping about what happened; (western wall) Prayer in the olive mountain as the apostles are sleeping take a look at their dresses and how well the artists worked with color and showed the roundness of the bodies; (northern wall) Death of virgin Mary in order to present the holiness of the moment there is a bunch of angels coming from the gates of the sky to take her soul, above her stands Jesus holding her soul, notice her body and how familiar are the artists with the human anatomy. The figures painted by Mihailo and Eftihie are not presented the traditional Byzantine way, skinny, emotionless and with their thoughts wondering somewhere. They are presented like healthy, chubby young men with red chicks. Mihailo and Evtihie are the first Byzantine artists to sign their work (on 20 different hidden locations, look on the front columns at the sword and the cloth of two holy warriors). Their work left strong influence on the Byzantine art. 100 denars

• St.Jovan Kaneo church 13th c. – most known for its scenic location, standing on a cliff over Lake Ohrid. Notable about the cute architecture is Armenian influence in the zig-zag line of the roof of the dome. 100 denars (Don’t enter the church since there are almost no frescoes left inside)
  

  

  St.Jovan Kaneo Church

• St.Pantelejmon – Plaoshnik - It has been very important religious center since early Christian times, if not before. It is the site of the first university in Europe, opened in the 10th c. and it is the place where the cyrillic alphabet was created. The church you see is a reconstruction of the church St.Klement built when he came here and opened the university. The 5 nave early Christian basilica in the middle of which the church stands is from the 5th century (interesting mosaics in the baptistery and in the side chapel covered with red plastic roof). The atrium was built on the side since there was no space in the front. It probably was the cathedral in early Christian times. When St.Klement came here in the 10th c. just the small round chapel that today serves as altar existed. Because of the large influx of worshipers that followed him, he enlarged the church by building the central part of the church and turning the existent church into an altar chapel, and he dedicated the church to St Panteleimon (protector of health). The closed porch and the belltower were added later in the 13th century. Before St.Klement died he dig his own grave inside the church. When the Turks came they torn the church down after a rebellion. It still attracted large number of worshipers and pilgrims so they built a mosque above it. Until recently both the mosque and the church were standing in ruins. The reconstruction is a big guess since they didn't know anything but the shape of the church. The height, the shape of the domes and the decorations are a wild guess. Free entrance

Smaller churches

• St.Nikola Bolnicki & St.Bogorodica Bolnicka - This two small churches were built with dormitories around them which were used as quarantine stations for visitors of the city. After the coming of the Turks the structure of the city changed and they lost their purpose, so they were turned into hospitals. That is from where the name Bolnicki comes from (bolnica – hospital). St.Nikola Bolnicki was built in 1313. The small addition on the roof is influence from the adriatic architecture and it imitates the belltowers of the churches on the Adriatic coast. The frescoes are in decent condition, couple of interesting portraits of some royals and Nikola one of Ohrid archbishops. Look for the fresco of God’s hand protecting the pure souls inside a tiny window. St.Bogorodica Bolnicka was built in the 14th century, the frescoes are in a bad condition. Even though the church is tiny there is a transversal vault, so the roof would imitate the shape of the cross. 50 denars

• Small St.Klement 14th c.- This tiny well hidden church is just few steps away from the Bolnicki churches. Just take the small narrow street opposite the Bolnicki churches. The small square is interesting since this street is one of the very few original streets remaining in Ohrid. It is shaped in form of gentle stairs so walking uphill would be easier. The steps are slightly curved towards the inside so when it is raining the water will stay in the middle. Opposite the church there is a traditional house, it is badly ruined but good for understanding the construction of traditional houses. The church is historically important since it is here that the bones of St.Klement were hidden after the Turks took the city. Free entrance; ask for the key in one of the houses around (they are allowed to say no)

• St.Dimitria, St.Konstantin and Elena & St.Mali Vraci - This 3 small churches built around St.Bogorodica Perivlepta were all built in the XIV century. St.Konstantin and Elena behind St.Bogorodica Perivlepta has a fake transept so it would show a cross on the roof. They are all locked, if you are interested ask for the keys in St.Bogorodica Perivlepta, or in the houses around.

• St. Erazmo early Christian church - The name St. Erazmo is a guess for the church in ruins that stands above Plaoshnik, built in the 5th century. It is important as an architectural solution, since it has a four leaf shape. Central solutions like this were built in Syria and Mesopotamia and they came customary much later in Europe in the 10th century. It shows that Ohrid had a great ties with the early Christian centers and that there was an exchange of artists and minds. It has three leaf shape on the outside and four leafs in the inside and it had a big dome in the center (notice the 4 huge basis of columns). Unfortunately the recent roof doesn’t show the shape of the church. There are some mosaics preserved, but they are not of best quality. There is also a small baptistery to the right with a four leafed shape with some excellent mosaics but they are away for conservation. Free entrance

Other sites

• Old bazaar - Since Ohrid was a big religious and cultural center, it never was an important trade center, which is evident by the size of its bazaar. It is a simple bazaar consisted of just one street. It starts with the food market (it used to be the animal market in the past). After the market the bazaar begins with a small square. On the square there is a 800 – 1000 years old plane tree (in the beginning of the 20th century there used to be a barber shop inside the crack of the trunk) and an ugly fountain. Above the square the clock tower of Ohrid stands. As you walk down the bazaar on your left there are couple of stone stores, which is the only section of original stores in the bazaar. In the past the bazaar was covered with wine grape, so it would protect the shoppers from the sun and the rain. Very few crafts are preserved. Check Tilevi store for Ohrid pearls (even if you don’t intend to buy ask the owner to explain about the history and the process of the making of Ohrid pearls, he likes to talk) and a must is a peak into Dereban filigree store, if you find it open. Mr. Dereban is very old and ill and he opens the store irregularly. The tiny store is like a museum with old jewelry and the old objects for melting and processing the silver. He is a legend and many royals, presidents and statesmen have shopped in his store on their official visits in Macedonia. The jewelry is not expensive at all. The bazaar ends with the main square that used to be the food market in the past.

• Mesokastro settlement - Mesokastro is the quarter right above the old bazaar, between the bazaar and the city walls. The name originates from the Latin term “meco castrum”, which means the city outside the city walls, where the poor used to live. It is interesting that the term has survived since ancient times. The houses of Mesokastro have incorporated parts of the city walls and in some parts they are not visible. If you have time walk around, since there are couple of old houses still standing and some of the streets offer great views over the lake.

• Kaneo settlement - Start the walk to Kaneo from St.Sophia church. You can reach it from Plaoshnik but you would miss out on the great views and the quiet streets of Ohrid. Kaneo settlement was the quarter of the poor fishermen. This the most scenic spot of Ohrid, standing below the rock on which St.Jovan Kaneo church is situated. There is a small beach overcrowded in summer and couple of restaurants.

• Ohrid fortifications – The whole old town is circled with walls which are crowned with King Samoil fortress. The first fortifications were built in the 5th c BC, but the oldest remains preserved are from 3th c. BC. The fortifications were reinforced many times through history and what we see today is from the 10th c. There used to be 4 gates inside the city Lower Gate (you’ll reach it soon after you walk from the main square inside the old part of the town on “Car Samoil” street, used to be the gate through which regular visitors entered the city in the ancient and medieval times, just one tower of it still stands); Upper Gate (in ancient times it used to be connected with the ancient theatre by portico, well preserved due to the reinforcements made in the 16th century); Front Gate (near St. Bogorodica Celnica church, the main entrance gate, today just in traces); and Water Gate (the entrance in the city from the lake, the place where it used to stand is not known). King Samoil fortress – From Plaoshnik take a small path through the woods to reach it. It had just military usage and there was no palace here (even though many people tend to believe so). In the second courtyard there are ancient graves, remains of a round tower and a cistern. Great views over the lake and Ohrid from here. Free entrance

• Ancient theatre – The theatre is the only visible monument from ancient times. It is the only Hellenistic theatre in Macedonia, the other 3 are from Roman times. Only the lower section of the theatre is preserved, it is not known how many people it seated since the upper section is missing (the arches in the behind are just decorative it is not something they unearthed). Free entrance
  

  

  Robevci & Uranija houses

• Ohrid traditional architecture – When the Turks came they settled on the flat part along the lake and that became the Muslim part of town and the part on the hills inside the walls was always the Christian part, with the bazaar as a meeting place. As the city grew and the Christians were not allowed to build outside the walls Ohrid developed very specific architecture with tight narrow streets and tunnels (houses built over the streets). The houses had tiny yards usually enclosed in the ground floor, and the houses grew over the streets on the upper floors since the locations were small. The steep terrain enabled everybody to have a good view of the lake and because of the strong sun the houses were painted white, so they would not attract the sun. Because of the winds from the lake the houses in Ohrid don’t have the open spaces the traditional houses in other towns in Macedonia have. Interesting houses can be seen all over the old town but the best examples are along “Car Samoil” and “Ilindenska” streets. Robevci & Uranija houses (This two are the best examples of traditional architecture. They are houses of very rich families and normally the houses were not this big. Especially rich in terms of architecture is Uranija house (the lower one), with entrances on different levels and inside galleries. They have been turned into museums today (if you don’t have time enter just Uranija this one is free and nicer, even though the top level of Robevci has great views, nice wood carvings, and some furniture) 100 denars); the house next to St.Gerakomija church (It is one of the few traditional houses that has been nicely and carefully preserved. It is turned into hotel now); Kanevce house On the right from the main facade of St.Sophia church is the small house that belonged to Kanevce family. It has beautiful proportions and it is a good example of how they built on small locations.

• Icon gallery – In the courtyard of St.Bogorodica Perivlepta church is the Ohrid icon collection with some of the best examples of the iconographic art in Macedonia. It is considered to be the second most important and valuable collection of icons in the world after the Moscow collection so check it out if you have interest and time. 100 denars

Do

Buy

Ohrid is known for the so called "Ohrid Pearls", made of scales of the Plasica fishe from the Ohrid Lake - a very nice souvenir.

Eat

Simply the most delicious dinner in Ohrid is the famous Ohrid trout, but because it is illegal to fish for the trout, it will be very hard to get, though you should give it a try.

Drink

Boza a traditional drink is a drink made of corn. it is available at the Carsija ( main street) very nice on a hot day, and has many vitamines too!

Sleep

One of the main forms of accommodation is simply staying with a family. For an average price of around 10 euros per night, you should be able to sleep in a bed and have access to bathing facilities. To get a host, the easiest way is to simply wait at the bus station to be approached. Lots of hosts are after your business,one of them is Antonio.

• Matjan apartments, +38970 249908, Ul.Kuzman Josifoski 2, [2].

• Gradiste campsite (about 30 minutes south of Ohrid by the lake). Offers cheaper rates, but the toilet facilities are old-fashioned stand-up toilets.

• Antonio Guesthouse, Ul.Dejan Vojvoda 94, +389 70 736906,

Great place to stay,family atmosphere,friendly and helpfull. [3]

Stay safe

The water is drinkable. There are various public fountains dotted around the town that provide fresh, free, cool drinking water.

Get out

East coast of Lake Ohrid: The east coast is the most beautiful part of Ohrid Lake. It is part of Galicica National Park and it is protected by UNESCO along with the lake for its natural values. The first part of the east coast is less interesting, the road goes along the lake and is lined with hotels, tourist setelments and organized beaches.

• Gorica Hotel beach – for me this is maybe the most beautiful beach on the coast, its covered with small pebells and it is cut between deep rocks. Unfortunaly it can get very crowded, so come here in early morning or late afternoon. If you visit Ohrid offseson this is the place to come and enjoy a great swim. There is a small cafe on the beach where one might also get some snacks and icecream or rent beach beds.
• St.Stefan Cave church 14th c.
• Peshtani village – this once quiet fishing village has given up to tourism, with almost every house renting rooms and many restaurants and cafes. Desaret hotel has a good organized beach. If you don’t like camping but like to enjoy the great beaches and parties in Gradishte you can stay here.

From here on the coast becomes more wild and beautiful with stunning views over the lake

• Gradishte camping site – It’s beach is reknowned as the most beautiful one on Ohrid Lake. The camping has couple of beaches. The main one is wide and fairly long with small pebels. If you folow the bridge along the rocks you’ll reach the second and third beach which are favoured with young people as they have cafes and bars, and quite often there are day and night parties organized here. The second beach has the small St.Bogorodica cave church 14th c.
• Trpejca village – due to the its setting between the rocks this small fishing village has managed to preserve its sharm and escape the overgrow of tourisam. It has a great long but narow beach with the cleanest waters on the lake. It has couple of good small lakeside fish and barbeque restaurants and a bar on the left side of the beach. If you don’t like the beach or it seems crowded take one of the small boats and ask to be taken to one of the isolated beaches around the village and enjoy the lake by yourself, the boat will came back for you at aranged time (50-100 denars).
• St.Zaum church – the church can be reached only by boat from Trpejca or Ljubanishta vilages ask on the beach or in one of the restaurants. It was built on a stuning location among the rocks on a small beach by the lake in 1361. The architecture is exquisite, but the main reason to come here is to see the fresco of St.Anna breastfeeding Virgin Mary.
• Ljubanishta village – Many people seem to like it, probably because of the sand beach (which arguably looks like mud). There is a camping here.
• St.Naum monastery – At the other end of the lake and is accessible by bus, taxi or boat. It is on the Albanian border so make sure you don't wander off into the military zone. If you take a taxi, it may be worth asking the driver to veer off into one of the picturesque mountain villages overlooking the lake to stop for a cheap lunch of grilled meat and cheese. One of the most beautiful monasteries in Macedonia and an important pilgrimage place. Breathtaking setting on a plateau over Ohrid Lake and Galicica mountain towering from behind. It was founded in the 910 by St.Naum, but the presentday church was built in the 16th c. Of the original church just the side chapel with the grave of St.Naum still stands. The frescoes were painted in 1806 (the side chapel frescoes depict the life and miracles of St.Naum); in the first chamber of the church look for the fresco of St.Cyril and Methody and their students including St.Klement and St.Naum. The iconscreen was made in 1711 and it is the oldest completely preserved wooden high iconscreen in Macedonia. In the side chamber it is popular to get down on your knees and try to listen the heart of St.Naum. Around the church look for the peacocks including a rare albino one. Bigger part of the dormitories of the monastery are turned into a hotel now. Near the monastery there is a chapel with holy water and before are the springs of Drim river with a lovely cafe on a small island inside the springs. It is posible (and a great experience) to take a boat tour of the springs (available only in summer) 50 denars, but skip the short boat tour ofered to see the monastery from the water. Next to the monastery the river enters the lake, goes through it and it comes out in Struga. Around the monastery there is a pleasant sandy beach.

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