From Wikitravel

Oslo [1] is the capital of Norway.

Contents 1 Understand 2 Get in 2.1 By plane 2.2 By train 2.3 By car 2.4 By bus 2.5 By boat 3 Get around 3.1 By metro 3.2 By bus or tram 3.3 By train 3.4 By boat 3.5 By bike 4 See 5 Do 6 Learn 7 Work 8 Buy 9 Eat 9.1 Budget 9.2 Mid-range 9.3 Splurge 10 Drink 10.1 Pubs 10.2 Shops 11 Sleep 11.1 Budget 11.1.1 Camping 11.1.2 Hostels 11.2 Mid-range 11.3 Splurge 12 Contact 13 Stay safe 14 Cope 15 Get out 15.1 Day trips 15.2 Further away

Understand

Chances are, if you are going to Norway, Oslo will maybe not be your primary target, as Norway's nature is more exciting in other parts of the country. Nevertheless, Oslo has plenty of sights, good nightlife and is worth seeing.

Oslo, with its approximately 453 square kilometers, is one of the largest capitals in the world by area. Granted, most of this is forest, but it is a highly appreciated recreational area by most of Oslo's inhabitants. The city center is rather compact and is a nice walking distance from one side to the other.

Get in

By plane

Oslo's Gardermoen Airport (OSL) is Norway's largest airport, located in Gardermoen, 45 kilometres north-east of Oslo. It's 19-22 minutes and 160 NOK by the Flytoget high speed train from Oslo central station. Alternatively, try one of the cheaper Flybussen buses which take roughly 45 minutes to the city centre, or the slower local trains (two lines, schedules here and here) (82 NOK). There are also a comprehensive bus service to other parts of Oslo and the region, through Flybussekspressen.

Taxis can, and should, be ordered in the booth inside the terminal for different fixed prices from NOK 395 to Oslo downtown. Going outside to flag one from the queue always work out more expensive.

Some airlines, most notably Ryanair, serve Torp airport near Sandefjord, 115 kilometres south of Oslo. The bus service Torpekspressen link the airport to Oslo, while local buses go to the nearby cities of Sandefjord and Tønsberg, connecting with trains to Oslo.

The airports are served with direct flights from most European capitals and holiday destinations, as well as from New York. There are also a comprehensive domestic flight network, run by several airlines. SAS Braathens, Norwegian and Widerøe are the biggest.

By train

Oslo Central Station (Oslo Sentralstasjon, T-bane Jernbanetorget) is at the eastern fringe of the city centre, by the end of the main pedestrian street Karl Johans gate. Internationally, there are three daily services to Gothenburg (Sweden) (4 hours). On weekends, there are day services to Stockholm (Sweden) (6 hours), while a night service runs every night via Gothenburg (9 hours). For Copenhagen (Denmark) and beyond, you have to change trains in Gothenburg.

Norwegian state rail operator NSB run fairly frequent and efficient, though not very fast, domestic services to Stavanger, Kristiansand, Bergen and Trondheim, as well as a comprehensive local and regional service around Oslo.

By car

International highways E6 (from Malmö and Gothenburg) and E18 (from St. Petersburg, Helsinki and Stockholm) meet in Oslo. There is a road tax of NOK 20 to enter Oslo with a car. The money is used for road construction and public transport.

The E6 is the main north-south road of Norway, and continues north to Trondheim, Alta and Kirkenes, with branches to most Norwegian cities. The E16 runs west to Bergen, the E134 to Haugesund and the E18 run south-west to Drammen, Grenland (Skien/Porsgrunn) and Kristiansand. Other notable roads into Oslo include Rv4 from Gjøvik, Rv2 from Charlottenberg (Sweden) and Kongsvinger and Rv7, an alternative road to Bergen passing Gol and Geilo.

By bus

Oslo is well served by bus from most of Europe. The biggest operators of international buses are Swedish companies Swebus Express and Säfflebussen. Both run inexpensive services to and from Stockholm, Gothenburg and Copenhagen several times a day, Säfflebussen even goes to Berlin. Lavprisekspressen also has buses twice a day to Gothenburg and Copenhagen. Norwegian company Nor-Way Bussekspress runs services to Gothenburg, while Eurolines have connections to a number of countries, most notably Poland, Germany and the Netherlands. Moravia Express run direct buses to Prague and Brno.

For domestic services, Nor-Way Bussekspress is the biggest operator, with several buses to Bergen, Trondheim and tons of other Norwegian destinations. Lavprisekspressen has buses to Bergen, Trondheim and Kristiansand twice a day, with cheap fares (Internet booking only).

By boat

Oslo is connected to Denmark and Germany by car ferry. Color Line runs services to Hirtshals (Denmark) and Kiel (Germany) daily. DFDS runs daily services to Helsingborg (Sweden) and Copenhagen (Denmark), while Stena Line runs to Frederikshavn (Denmark).

Get around

There is a comprehensive public transport system in Oslo, consisting of buses, trams, metro (T-bane) and boats. All run on the same tax scheme, and the same tickets are valid for all modes of transport. A single ticket costs NOK 20 when bought in advance from a kiosk or a machine, and NOK 30 when bought from a bus or tram driver. The ticket is valid for one hour of free travel. Cards with 8 journeys, each valid for one hour of travel, costs NOK 160. There are also daily passes (NOK 60), weekly passes (NOK 210) and monthly passes (NOK 720). No passes are valid on night traffic (Fridays and Saturdays only; NOK 50).

Make sure that you have a ticket and, if necessary, that it is validated before entering the subway platform or boarding the rear door of the bus or tram. The day- week- and monthly passes as well as single tickets purchased in a kiosk are not validated before they are stamped. On a bus or tram, the tickets are stamped when you board, either by the driver or in a stamping machine. On the subway and the large railway stations, you stamp the ticket before entering the platform. Random spot checks are fairly common and being caught without a valid ticket leads to an automatic fine of at least NOK 750.

Trafikanten is the information centre for public transport in Oslo. It is situated just outside Oslo Central Station, by the foot of the clock tower. They hand out free maps, give information and sell all kinds of tickets. Their website has timetables, maps and search engines for all city transport in Oslo, as well as all transport in the nearby county of Akershus. Tickets can also be bought at all Narvesen, 7-Eleven and Deli de Luca-kiosks, which are numerous.

Here is a map of all local trains, trams and metro lines in Oslo.

By metro

Oslo's metro system is known as the Tunnelbane or just T-bane, just look for the "T in a circle" logo. There are five lines, but the network is easy enough to figure out: all lines merge together to a single tunnel through the city center, from Majorstuen through Jernbanetorget (Oslo Sentralstasjon) to Tøyen, and then spread out into the suburbs. A loop line running in a circle from northern Oslo to the center and back opened in 2006.

When entering a T-bane station, be sure to pick the right side: the central stations have separate entrances and separate platforms for trains going west and trains going east.

A metro network map is here.

By bus or tram

Trams and buses complement the subway network, and use the same tickets. They cover most of the city, and run from approx. 5 AM to midnight.

All tram lines run at least every 10 minutes during the day, and every 20 minutes at night and early morning. The main lines cover parts of the city with no subway, and are an efficient way of getting around. The main, central tram terminals are at Stortorget, Brugata and Jernbanetorget. Here is a map of the tram network.

Bus lines cover the rest of the city, as well as several ring lines. Nearly all central bus lines converge at Jernbanetorget. A map of the bus services are to be found here.

By train

Local trains cover parts of the city, and runs out to the neighbouring municipalities and towns. The same tickets are valid for travel inside Oslo municipality (until the stations Lørenskog, Rosenholm, Lysaker and Movatn).

The local train network inside Oslo is depicted in gray on this map.

The local train network span across the city limits to neighbouring cities and towns. The whole network is depicted on this map.

By boat

Boats run from Vippetangen near Akershus fortress to the islands in the Oslofjord, as well as from Aker Brygge to Bygdøy, with many major museums. The same tickets are valid for all local boats.

The departures, especially in evenings and winter, are infrequent, so make sure you don't lose the last one! Schedules can be found at the Trafikanten website.

By bike

Oslo has a public bike service. Just get a keycard at the tourist office and you can get a bike at numerous places in the city. The bike can be used for up to three hours before you return it to any city bike stall.

See

• The Frogner park (T-bane, tram 11-19, bus 22-25-45-46 to Majorstua, tram 12 or bus 20 to Vigelandsparken) with the Vigeland Sculpture Park is a large green area about 10 minutes by subway from the city center. In addition to being a nice green recreational area, it is also decorated with hundreds of sculptures by the Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland. There is a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere here, and if your children wants to climb the statues, nobody will even bother to look twice at you. There is also a cafeteria, and two museums, the City Museum of Oslo and the Vigeland Museum.
• The Royal Palace is at the end of Karl Johans gate, the city's main avenue.
• Oslo's City Hall (Rådhuset) is located by the waterfront, with Fritdjof Nansensplass on the inland side. It's open to the public, with a spectacular main hall featuring huge murals with typical Nordic socialist themes. There are also some displays of historical artifacts in the side rooms upstairs.
• The Henrik Ibsen Museum in the crossing between Arbins gate and Henrik Ibsens gate have just re-opened, and is a treat.
• Vår Frelsers Cemetery north of city center on Ullevålsveien holds the graves of Edvard Munch and Henrik Ibsen.
• The Munch Museum (T-bane, bus 20-60 to Tøyen) is definitely worth a visit if you want to enjoy paintings of the famous Norwegian painter Edward Munch. (The museum had been closed, but is now reopened with security improvements.) There is of course also the National Gallery, featuring Norwegian art from the national-romantic period, as well as some art by international artists.
• The Nobel Peace Centre has some confronting exhibitions as well as an exhibit for every winner of the Nobel Peace Prize.

• Akershus festning (Tram 12 to Rådhusplassen, bus 60 to Bankplassen) is a medieval castle built in 1299, located close to the city center. There are several excellent viewpoints to the Oslofjord and surrounding areas. The stone walls create an exciting atmosphere, and you are free to roam around in tight passages and staircases. There are two museums here, both related to Norwegian military history.

• Somewhat outside the city center is a peninsula called Bygdøy. You can get there by bus (number 30) or, in summer months, by ferry departing from pier 3 at Aker Brygge outside the city hall. At Bygdøy, you will find two groups of museums within walking distance of each other:
  • In the first group, around 800m inland:
    • The Folk museum, a large open air museum featuring typical buildings from various periods in Norwegian history.
    • The Viking ship museum, which in addition to two 900 year old viking-ships (apparently the best preserved in the world) also contains various other viking artifacts and a viking burial chamber, complete with ancient skeletons.
  • In the second group, on the harbour:
    • The Norwegian Maritime Museum, which houses a huge collection of ships and boats and records the impact of Norway's seafarers on their own coutry and the world.
    • The Kon-Tiki museum displaying Tor Heyerdahl's balsa raft Kon-Tiki, and Ra II, as well as some other artifacts from Easter Island).
    • The Fram-museum. It features the vessel Fram, the worlds first ice breaker, and presents a history of polar exploration (with a strong Norwegian focus!)

• You should not miss Holmenkollen, the ski jumping hill located on the west side of Oslo (Catch subway number 1 towards Frognerseteren). It was first opened in 1892, but have been altered a few times since then. It has more than 1 million visitors every year. You can get all the way up to the top of the ski jump tower, where you have a great view of the city. There is also the oldest ski museum in the world, opened in 1923. Walking and mountain bike riding are popular activities here during the summer.

Some other museums are:

• The Norwegian Museum of Science and Technology (Tram 11 or 12 to Kjelsås, bus 22, 25 or 54 to Kjelsås) is a fun place for both children and adults.
• The Tramway Museum (T-bane to Majorstuen) shows the history of Oslo's trams, buses and subway.

For a small city, Oslo has an amazing number of museums. Many of them are located next to each other and don't take long to visit but, as with most things in Oslo, they are not cheap. If you are planning on seeing several of the attractions above in a short period of time, then the most cost effective way to do this is to buy an Oslo Pass. It includes unlimited entry to most of the museums and the Holmenkollen ski jump, as well as free travel on Oslo's quite expensive public transport. You can buy 24, 48 or 72 hour tickets. They can be purchased at Tourist Information Offices in Oslo.

Do

• Take walks in Oslo's many forests. Nice gateways to the beautiful nature are T-bane to Frognerseteren (line 1), Sognsvann (line 3), Romsås (line 5) or Skullerud (line 3) or the train to Movatn (local trains towards Hakadal or Jaren).
• Buy at least one 19kr Hotdog- They are referred to as "Kjempegrill" (I returned from Oslo barely four hours ago and I can assure you not only do they taste good, they also give you an excuse to go inside when you are cold and waiting for the tube) They are great for keeping the low blood sugar troll at bay. (I second this, especially the tube station part, although I must add that 19kr still equates to £1.50, so they aren't exactly cheap - cheap for Oslo though)
• The area around Holmenkollen (T-bane 1) is well suited for cross-country skiing, but also a nice area for hiking during summertime. While you are there, you can also visit the ski-museum which is located close to the ski-jump. For additional fun, buy a cheap sledge or "akebrett", or rent a proper one from Frognerseteren, and sleigh down from Frognerseteren to Midtstuen station. This was actually the venue of the sleighing competitions in the 1952 Winter Olympics, and the hill is referred to as "Korketrekkeren" (the corkscrew). If you buy a day-card for the subway, you can race all day long, but make sure you are well dressed, as you are going to get wet.
• In summertime, you can also take one of the ferries out to various islands in the Oslo-fjord (boat 91-92-93-94 from Vippetangen, bus 60 runs to the quay). There are also a bathing bus (number 87) running from mid-June to mid-August from Jernbanetorvet to the brilliant beaches Hvervenbukta, Bestemorstranda and Ingierstrand. Additionally, for Hvervenbukta you may take the train to Hauketo, then bus 76.
• If you want to experience nightlife, Oslo has a surprisingly large selection of restaurants, nightclubs and bars considering the population size. See details below.
• Visit Ekebergsletta (bus 34) during Norway Cup, billed as the world's biggest football tournament (about 25 000 participants). Lots of fun and football.

Learn

The University of Oslo is the biggest university in Norway.

BI is a private business school.

Work

If you're looking for work check out the website of the governmental agency Aetat.

Buy

In 2004 Oslo was ranked the 15th most expensive city to live in in the world; in a regularly published research paper by UBS (Prices and Earnings - A comparison of purchasing power around the Globe / 2003 edition), Oslo was rated most expensive city of the survey.

If you are out to shop there's plenty to choose from. The pedestrian street Karl Johans Gate has plenty of shops, or you can check out:

• Glasmagasinet (tram 10-11-17-18 or bus 37-46 to Stortorvet) dates back to 1739, where you can find souvenirs, crystal, china and much more.
• Oslo City (T-bane to Jernbanetorget) is a big shopping center just across the street from the Central station.
• Byporten (T-bane to Jernbanetorget) is the latest addition to the shopping center scene. It's connected to the Central station.
• Paleet (T-bane to Nationaltheateret) is an upmarket, central shopping centre with a food court.
• Aker Brygge (Tram 12, bus 21, 33 or 54 to Aker Brygge/Bryggetorget/Vika Atrium) is a seaside shopping and nightlife centre with high prices, but lots of glam and fun.

Eat

Aker Brygge (tram 12, bus 21, 32, 33 or 54; stops Aker Brygge, Vika Atrium or Bryggetorget) is a coastal area located south of the city hall, which during summer time is seething with life. There are outdoor restaurants and bars almost anywhere. Be sure to get some tasty sea-food (or whatever else you like to eat) while you are there, or just enjoy your cold beer in the summer sea-breeze. Be advised that this is also the most expensive area in Oslo to dine or drink, so unless the weather is good, you can just as well stay indoors somewhere else.

If you - at the Aker brygge - realizes that this was a little bit to expensive, don't hesitate to retreat to the blocks behind, for eksemple to En cafe (http://www.nattguiden.no/utested/1088). You'll also find a nice pub at Otto's (http://www.carlton.no/default4.aspx)

You are also close to most of the restaurants, bars, or nightclubs located within the city center. A key reference point will be Stortingsgaten, running parallel to Karl Johans gate, both running eastwards from the royal castle (this is also the main shopping area). While both of these streets have a few restaurants and nightclubs, most will be found in one of the side-streets running out from them, or parallel to them. It doesn't matter much where you start, you will find restaurants, bars, and nightclubs almost anywhere from the subway station Nationaltheatret at the west, to far beyond Oslo central railroad station on the east. There are several other areas, such as Grünerløkka (tram 11-12-13 to Nybrua, Schous plass, Olaf Ryes plass or Birkelunden), Majorstuen(T-bane, tram 11-12-19 or bus 20-22-25-45-46 to Majorstua), and Grønland (T-bane to Grønland, bus 37 to Tøyengata or bus 60 to Norbygata) that are worth checking out. Be advised that nearly all bars and nightclubs close at the same time, so if you want to get a taxi back to your hotel, try to leave a few minutes before the rush starts.

Norwegians are increasingly snacking on Kebabs and chips, but try a pølse instead - a hot dog served with fried onions, ketchup and mustard, wrapped in a piece of potato flatbread called lompe. Fast, tasty and cheap, with prices starting from just NOK 10.

Budget

A brilliant area for budget dining is Torggata (the area between Youngstorget and Hausmanns Gate) and the surrounding streets. You will find cheap Vietnamese restaurants and even cheaper kebab-joints, as well as other offerings. It's close to the centre, but you can get bus 34 or 54 to Jacobs kirke, or tram 11-12-13-17/bus 30-31-32-34-54 to Brugata or Hausmanns gate. The closest T-bane station is Grønland, then walk north along Brugata. Some great offers in this area are:

• A Taste of China, Torggata (great dim sum)
• Cafe Sara, Torggata/Hausmanns gate (turkish,mexican,pizzas,salads,barbeque,vegetarian)Fantastic food at cheap prices, with brilliant outdoor seating.
• Hai cafe, Calmeyers gate (vietnamese, cheap and brilliant!)
• Layali, Badstugata (brilliant lebanese). The proprietor of the place is very friendly and can recommend good stuff himself.
• Lille Amir, Torggata/Badstugata (lebanese)
• Tay Do cafe, Torggata bad (vietnamese) Try out the day's special, or the 'Daagens' for only about 80NOK. Guaranteed good food.
• Saigon Lille Kafe, Bernt Ankers gate (vietnamese)

Grønland is often nicknamed "Little Karachi", and is full of cheap eating joints, shops selling fabrics and jewellery, Pakistani sweet shops, beer halls and more. Some of the best eats are:

• Bangkok Thai, Grønlandsleiret (bus 37 to Politihuset). The best thai restaurant in Oslo?
• Punjab Tandoori, Grønlandsleiret, just by Grønland T-bane. The friendliest sikh in the world dishes out ultra-cheap, tasty indian food.
• Tandoori Curry Corner, Grønlandsleiret. The neighbouring restaurant of the Punjab Tandoori is even cheaper, but the helpings are smaller.

For true Norwegian budget dining, the choice is smaller. Most cafes and restaurants serving traditional food are upmarket, but there are a couple of good spots to get stuffed on meat cakes and brown gravy, lutefisk and other delicacies:

• Dovrehallen, Storgata near Jernbanetorvet. Old-style beer hall serving delicious meat-and potato-dishes for less than NOK 100. Fantastic! Recomendation followed on 04-06
• Schrøder, Waldemar Thranes gate (bus 21-33-37-46 to St. Hanshaugen). Dark drinking den with delicious, traditional, cheap and fattening Norwegian food.
• Olympen, Grønlandsleiret (bus 37 to Tøyengata, T-bane to Grønland). A true experience. Hilarious band and lots of drunks, but decent enough food.

Mid-range

• Arakataka, Mariboes gate (Tram 11,12,13,17 or bus 30,31,32,34,54 to Brugata). The most upmarket offering in Oslo's Bermuda Triangle of cheap eating, Arakataka manages to pull off decent French and Mediterranean cuisine at not too bad prices.
• Centraal, Stortingsgata. (Tram 13-19 to Nationaltheatret, bus 30-31-32 to Eidsvolls plass or T-bane to Nationaltheatret). Modern, stylish restaurant downtown with flawless cuisine, a tad cheaper than most.
• Falcon Crest, Ullern allé (T-bane to Smestad, then bus 43 to Åsjordet). New, stylish offering with brilliant food and reasonable prices for western Oslo. And yes, it is named after the 80's soap opera.
• Kampen Bistro, Bøgata (T-bane 1,2,3,4 to Ensjø or bus 60 to Kampen Park). Lovely neighbourhood joint with brilliant food and occasional free concerts. See Drinking.
• Lanternen, First Ferry stop on Bygdøy. Salads, sandwiches. The herring is good. Three kinds of herring with bread is NOK 80.
• Mucho Mas, Thorvald Meyers gate (tram 11,12,13 to Olaf Ryes plass). Cal-mex joint offering huge, delicious meals at low prices. No wonder it's always crowded.
• Oriental, Prof. Aschehougs plass (tram 11-17-18 to Tinghuset/Prof. Aschehougs plass or T-bane Stortinget). Brilliant all-Asian restaurant with inventive dishes.
• Palace Grill, just by Solli plass (tram 12,13 or bus 21,30,31,32 to Solli/Lapsetorvet). Fantastic food at fair prices, with brilliant outdoor seating.
• Paris-Texas, Rådhusgata 28. tel: 22428833. Email:post@paristexas.no. Excellent mussels, lamb and steak. Beautiful simple room and good service. (Tram 12 to Christiania torv)
• Rehman's, Thorvald Meyers gate (tram 11,12,13 to Birkelunden, bus 21 to Sannergata). Inventive indian serving up, among other things, deer curry.
• Restaurant Victor, Hans Nielsen Hauges gate (Tram 11,12,13 to Grefsenveien or bus 30 to Sandaker). Oslo's best suburban offering, with innovative and fabulous food. Prices to match.
• Siam Oriental, Waldemar Thranes gate (bus 21,33,37,46 to St. Hanshaugen). Friendly Thai ladies doles out fabulous shrimp dishes.
• Smia, just by Vålerenga kirke (bus 20,37 to Galgeberg). Atmospheric restaurant in old wooden house area with tons of charm.
• Sult, Thorvald Meyers gate (tram 11,12,13 or bus 30 to Birkelunden, bus 21 to Sannergata). Good neighbourhood-gourmet style food, with an ever-changing menu.

Splurge

If price is no object, there is some very fine dining to be found.

• Annen Etage, in Hotel Continental, [2].
• Bagatelle, Skovveien (bus 30/31/32 to Skovveien, bus 21 to Lapsetorvet), [3]. Has two stars in the Michelin guide.
• Ekebergrestauranten, Ekeberg (tram 18,19 to Sjømannsskolen). An architechtural monument, this place offers gourmet dining and Oslo's best views. Hugely popular.
• Oro, Tordenskiolds gt. 6'. One Michelin star.
• Le Canard, President Harbitz gt. 4, [4]. One Michelin star.

Drink

Pubs

As of 2004, all bars, pubs and restaurants in Oslo are smoke-free. Which means you have to go outside to smoke. But since you can't drink on the street, you have to leave your drink inside. Oslo is in general very expensive, and you can often be expected pay up to NOK 60 or more for a pint (0.5l to be precise) of beer or a glass of the house wine. However, there are neighbourhoods and pubs with more reasonable prices.

• Andys Stortingsgata. (T-bane Stortinget, tram 13-19 to Wessels plass/Nathionaltheateret, bus 31-32-33-54 stop nearby). Official pub for Liverpool FC supporters. Shows most football matches on lcd-tv's.

• Bohemen (“the Bohemian”), Arbeidergata 2, tel: +47-22416266. (T-bane Stortinget, tram 11-17-18 to Prof. Aschehougs plass/Tinghuset) The best place to watch football (soccer) and sports in general, and to have a (relatively) cheap beer. Official Vålerenga supporter pub.

• Byråkrat, Grensen 10, tel: +47-22340241, [5]. Tram 11-17-18 or bus 37-46 to Stortorvet, T-bane Stortinget. Beer, drinks, seafood. Free open Wireless Internet. Also almost covered outside area for smokers.

• Cafe Sara, corner of Torggata and Hausmanns gate. Bus 34-54 to Jacobs kirke. Conveniently close to Anker Hostel, Cafe Sara pours beer and dishes up tasty turkish and mexican dishes for not too much money. Great outdoor seating. Very cozy pub with a great atmosphere and well known for its cheap but great food.

• Cafe Tiger, Torggata 5. Tram 11-17-18 or bus 37-46 to Stortorvet. No food but good drinks and coffee menu. Has free and open wireless internet.

• Champagneria, Frognerveien. Tram 12-13 or bus 30-31-32 to Solli. Spanish cava and tapas bar, fairly cheap and enjoyable.

• Dubliner, Rådhusgata. Tram 12 to Christiania torv. A nice Irish pub a little off Karl Johans gate, do a nice fish and chips (and a few rounds of guiness with which to wash it down)

• Garage, Grensen 9. Tram 11-17-18 or bus 37-46 to Stortorvet, T-bane Stortinget. A rock club with a large stage in the basement, great outdoor seating in a cosy back yard, good rock music and unlimited amounts of beer on tap. 0,5l NOK 42/52 (after 19.00).

• Hard Rock Cafe, Karl Johans Gate 45, tel: +47-22863000, [6]. T-bane to Nationaltheatret. Opened in December 2005. Dealing mainly with, as the name suggests, rock nostalgia from the 50's, this should be familiar.

• Hell's Kitchen, Youngstorget (corner of Møllergata). Tram 11-12-13-17 or bus 30-31-32-34-54 to Kirkeristen/Nygata/Brugata. Fab pizza and music, lots of beer and cocktails. Brilliant place that has turned more hip recently, expect queues at weekends.

• Kampen Bistro, Bøgata. Bus 60 to Kampens park or T-bane 1-2-3-4 to Ensjø. Great food and affordable beer in a local restaurant in Kampen, one of the most picturesque residential areas of Oslo. Worth the trip!

• Mono, Pløens gate. Tram 11-12-13-17 or bus 30-31-32-34-54 to Kirkeristen/Nygata/Brugata. Rock music club with local rock stars, frequent concerts with up-and-coming Oslo acts, not too expensive beer and a great back garden for smoking. 0,5l NOK 52.

• M/S Innvik, moored to the quay behind Oslo Havnelager. Boat with hostel, theatre stage and a nice pub with good food and cheap beer. One of the most fabulous outdoor seatings in Oslo. 0,5l NOK 44.

• Olympen, Grønlandsleiret. Bus 37 to Tøyengata, T-bane to Grønland. Big, German-inspired dark beer hall with greasy food, local alcoholics, cheap beer and great ambience. 0,5l NOK 39.

• Spasibar, between St. Olavs gt and Kristian IVs gt close to the Royal Castle. Tram 11-17-18 to Holbergs plass. Weird and wonderful bar with decor resembling a 70's-inspired, underground Russian club. Lovely outdoor seating in summer too, and often concerts with up-and-coming Norwegian bands. 0,5l NOK 48.

• Südøst, Trondheimsveien 5. Bus 30-31-32, tram 17 to Heimdalsgata. A short walk from the Anker hostel, this place has quickly become the most fashionable in Oslo. Lovely outdoor seating, great (but a tad expensive) food and a marvellous dining room. 0,5l NOK 52.

• Teddy's Soft Bar, Brugata. Tram 11-12-13-17 or bus 30-31-32-34-54 to Brugata, T-bane to Grønland. The only bar in Oslo that's protected by cultural authorities. True 50's setting, this is where rockers and low-key film stars lurk in the corners. This is the cafe that brought soft ice to Norway! 0,5l NOK 52.

• Tekehtopa, St. Olavs plass. Tram 17-18 to Tullinløkka or bus 37 to Nordahl Bruns gate. Lovely cafe serving beer, wine, drinks and small dishes in a fabulous former pharmacy. (Tekehtopa spelled backwards, apotheket, actually means "the pharmacy" in Norwegian.) One of the prettiest cafes around! Adjoined by Bar Babylon, an industrial-style club with wonderful back yard seating. 0,5l NOK 49.

• Two Dogs, Brugata. Tram 11-12-13-17 or bus 30-31-32-34-54 to Brugata, T-bane to Grønland. English-style football pub with big screen, jolly atmosphere and darts. 0,5l NOK 48.

• Verkstedet, Hausmannsgt. 29. Bus 34-54 to Jacobs kirke. On the right hand side of Cafe Sara, Verkstedet is a very nice rock bar with a cozy and great backyard which it shares with Cafe Sara. The club also has a stage, where both local and foreign acts do appear. At the weekends the club transforms into a rock disco, where you can dance to great rock music. The bar dishes up with great coctails and unlimited amounts of beer, both on tap and bottles.

• Zen, Vogts gate, Torshov. Tram 11-12-13 to Biermanns gate, then continue for 100 metres. A mysteriously stylish interior for a dive bar, dishing out some of Oslo's cheapest beer (NOK 32 for 0,5l!).

Areas with notable pub density are Grünerløkka (tram 11-12-13 to Nybrua, Schous plass, Olaf Ryes plass or Birkelunden), Aker Brygge (tram 12 to Aker Brygge or bus 21-54 to Bryggetorget), Solli/Frogner (tram 12-13 or bus 30-31-32 to Solli), Grønland (T-bane to Grønland or bus 37 to Tøyengata) and the city centre.

You could also shop for beer (10 NOK - 16 NOK for a 0.33l pint bottle) and drink it privately in the confines of your dwelling with friends, in case you are unable to shell out the money to drink up at a pub. Be advised to finish your shopping early and stock up soon, since supermarkets stop selling beer after 8PM each day, and 6pm on Saturdays (3pm on a holiday weekend). It is not possible to buy beer in a shop on a Sunday

Shops

Some of the central Vinmonopolet outlets in Oslo are:

• Oslo Central Station, beneath the staircase leading down to Trafikanten
• In the basement of Oslo City shopping centre
• In the Steen og Strøm shopping centre, close to Karl Johans gate
• Møllergata 10, close to Youngstorget
• Vika, Vikatorvet shopping centre (tram 12 to Vikatorvet)
• Theresas gate, Bislett (near Bislett Stadium, trams 17 and 18)

Sleep

Getting a hotel in Oslo can potentially be difficult. It would be smart to reserve a room in advance. There are also relatively few youth hostels, etc., for backpackers and people travelling on a budget. Getting a reservation beforehand is essential during peak periods.

Budget

Camping

• Ekeberg Camping, Bus 34 to Ekeberg Camping, [7]. The closest campsite has a beautiful view of the city. No cabins.
• Bogstad Camping, T-bane 2 to Røa, then bus 32, 41 or 47 to Bogstad Camping or Peder Ankers plass, [8]. 9 kms out of town at the entrance of picturesque Sørkedalen, Bogstad has cabins as well as tent space.
• Oslo Fjord Camping, Train to Hauketo, then corresponding bus 76 to Hvervenbukta, or bus 87 (both options summer only), [9]. Near the beautiful swimming spot of Hvervenbukta, this campsite is a good deal.

Hostels

• Anker Hostel, Hausmanns gate (tram 11-12-13-17, bus 30-31-32), [10]. Very centrally located, right between the central station and Grünerløkka (both five minutes walking).

• Haraldsheim Youth Hostel, Sinsenkrysset (tram 17 or bus 23-31-32), [11]. The biggest HI hostel in Oslo is just outside the main ring road, in a nice, green area. Not too far from the action, walking distance to the lively neighbourhoods of Torshov and Grünerløkka.
• Holtekilen Hostel, Stabekk/Kveldsroveien (train to Stabekk, or bus 151, 153, 161, 162, 252 or 261 to Kveldsroveien), [12]. Outside the city border, extra fee needed if you have Oslo Transport card. Open May-August. In a picturesque neighbourhood close to the sea.
• Rønningen Youth Hostel, Rønningen (tram 11-12-13 or T-bane 5 to Storo, change to bus 56 (once an hour 0600-2400) to Rønningen, then walk 300m), [13]. Open June-August, inconveniently located but nice.
• Perminalen, Kongens gate (T-bane to Stortinget, bus 30-31-32-54 to Wessels plass, tram 10-12-13-19 to Kongens gate, [14]. Bang in the centre, Perminalen offers slightly higher standards at slightly higher prices. OK cafe with good, old Norwegian homely grub at nice prices.

Mid-range

• M/S Innvik, [15]. Theatre boat with cabin accommodation 10 min. walk from the train station. Nice cafe/pub and good views of the opera construction site.
• Radisson SAS Plaza Hotel, Sonja Henies Plass 3, [16]. With 37 floors and breathtaking views of Oslo and the Oslo Fjord, the Radisson SAS Plaza Hotel is Northern Europe’s highest and Norway’s largest hotel. Suited 3 min walk from the train station. Rooms from 1300 NOK.
• Radisson SAS Nydalen, Nydalesveien 33 (T Nydalen), tel. +47-2326-3000, [17]. New hotel in the new district of Nydalen, 15 minutes from the city center by subway. Choose from funky "Chilli" or more staid "Urban" rooms, Internet rates from 900 NOK with breakfast.

Splurge

• Hotel Continental Oslo, [18]. Located between the National Theatre and Aker Brygge, this family-run hotel has a Michelin-listed gourmet restaurant (Annen Etage) and a large Vienna-style cafe (Theatercafeen) which is the place to be seen in Oslo. Outstanding service and prices to match, still considered good value for money. Nice quiet bar with original Edvard Munch litographs.

• Grand Hotel Oslo, [19]. This is the hotel where Nobel Peace Prize winners stay when coming to Oslo for the award ceremony. Expensive and lots of services. Excellent view over main street "Karl Johans gate". Grand Cafe, at street level, was Henrik Ibsen's daily watering hole.

Contact

• Byråkrat [20], QBA (Grünerløkka) and Cafe Tiger has free open wireless internet. If you just want internet access a NOK 18 cup of coffee a Cafe Tiger is worth it.
• There are several open wifi connections on the upper level cafes at the train station Oslo Sentralstation, the subway station at Grønland. On the first floor there is an internet café inside the train station Oslo S, as well as in the bus terminal next to the central station.
• Across from the Nationaltheatret next to a pub called Paddy's, there is an internet cafés, and there are kiosks in the shopping center Oslo City in downtown area and other wifi spots in the eastern fringes, such as the Deichmanske Bibliotek on Henrik Ibsens Gate.

Stay safe

The majority of the criminal incidents reported to the police continue to be theft-related. Although rare, violent crimes and crimes committed using a weapon are being perpetrated more frequently. However, it is much more likely for tourists to experience the crimes of pick-pocketing and petty theft, which occur in the major tourist areas, in hotel lobbies, in the train and transit stations, and in similar locations where groups of visitors gather. Police credit criminal youth gangs for the frequency of these criminal activities.

No areas are terminally unsafe, but be especially aware of your belongings in the central station and bus station. Although it is unlikely something will happen, keep your eyes open in crowded downtown areas, deserted suburbs, in and around T-bane and railway stations and at the main drag, Karl Johans gate (especially the part closest to the central station). The highest number of reported thefts occur around Grønland and Tøyen.

Also, in winter watch out for icy patches, and when wandering in the forest beware when crossing snowy clearings - they may well be frozen lakes with snow over them, which may look safe but could crack. Finally, beware of snow falling from the roofs in Oslo - there are usually yellow signs up (featuring the word "takras") and some areas are ocasionally cordoned off.

Cope

Oslo is easy to get around in, and almost every Norwegian speaks English more or less fluently.

Get out

Day trips

• Kongsberg is a beautiful city well-known for its silver mining history. The city is located about an hour-and-a-half west of Oslo by train. The Kongsberg International Jazz Festival is hosted here every year in early July.
• Fredrikstad is a very enjoyable city not far from Oslo, with an old, walled old town and lots of streetlife in summer. Trains run approx every hour, and express buses run about 10 times per day.
• Tønsberg is an attractive seaside town with an attractive city centre. It's the oldest town in Norway, and even if this isn't instantly visible, there's lots of history to digest. Train is the best way to get here.
• Drøbak is another of the picturesque, samll seaside towns dotted all over southern Norway, and one of the closest to Oslo. Nice place to get away from the big city bustle, even if Drøbak also can become crowded in summer. Buses run at least hourly.

Further away

• Take the most beautiful train journey in the world: take the train to Bergen and pass the Hardangervidda.
• Go further north, go to Trondheim and eventually go to Bodø and Lofoten.
• In summer, try heading down the south coast, to places like Lillesand, Risør, Kragerø and Sandefjord, very picturesque and beautiful.
• In winter, go alpine skiing in Hemsedal, Lillehammer, Geilo or Beitostølen. (Or stay in the city for that — there is very good alpine and cross country skiing within Oslo city limits.)

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