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Ottawa Travel Guide

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Ottawa [1] is the capital of Canada. The city is situated along the Ontario side of the Ottawa River, opposite Gatineau, Quebec.

Unique as a North American capital, the city is bilingual with the majority of the population speaking English and a significant number also speaking French. Staff in stores and restaurants usually speak both well.

Ottawa is home to many of the world's cultures as thousands of immigrants from around the world now call Ottawa home. The city is probably best known as the nation's capital but has become one of the fastest growing cities in North America owing to the booming high-tech business sector.

The Peace Tower, Parliament Hill
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The Peace Tower, Parliament Hill

Contents

Understand

The National War Memorial near Parliament Hill
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The National War Memorial near Parliament Hill

Ottawa started as a humble lumber town, then called Bytown, named after Colonel John By who oversaw the construction of the Rideau Canal, much of which was done by hand, between 1826 and 1832. Lumber mills were built along the Ottawa River in the mid-nineteenth century and those brought employment and wealth to the growing population. The center of action then, as now, was the Byward Market. While it's still the centre of the city's nightlife, it has changed appreciably from the rough and tumble early days of brothels and taverns.

In 1857, Queen Victoria chose Ottawa as the capital of Canada. The choice was controversial, partly because it sidestepped the rivalry between Toronto and Montreal (then, as now, Canada's largest cities), and partly because the new capital was still a tiny outpost in the middle of nothing much — an American newspaper famously commented that it was impregnable, as any invaders would get lost in the woods looking for it.

During the latter half of the nineteenth century, the telephone was demonstrated to the Canadian public for the first time and the city was electrified. The first electric streetcar service was started in 1891. A menu from 1892 states that, "the first instance in the entire world of an entire meal being cooked by Electricity" was in Ottawa.

Today, the major economic sectors are the public service, travel and tourism and the high-tech industry. Ottawa has proudly remained a green city, and many residents make regular use of Ottawa's parks and green spaces. Many national attractions are located in Ottawa: Parliament Hill; the National Library and Archives; the National Gallery; as well as the Museums of Civilization, Contemporary Photography, Nature, and Science & Technology.

Get in

By plane

The newly renovated and expanded Macdonald-Cartier International (airport code YOW) is Ottawa's main airport with regular arrivals and departures from most major Canadian and many American cities. Services outside North America, however, are limited to a daily flight to London Heathrow with Air Canada, less frequent flights with Zoom Airlines to London Gatwick and Glasgow (via Halifax NS).

Macdonald-Cartier is easily reached by public transit or taxi and most of the major car rental agencies have a presence at the airport terminal in the parking garage. A taxi to downtown hotels should cost between $20 and $30. There are also hotels within minutes of the airport and a less than $10 taxi ride.

To reach downtown via public transit, hop on the #97 bus (the only bus at the airport) and get off at the Rideau Centre transitway stop (approx. 14 stops), which is also called Mackenzie King. If you take this route before 6:00am you will take the more meandering early morning route, but will still get to Mackenzie King. To get to the train station you also take the #97 bus, but get off at Hurdman station and take the #95 eastbound bus to the next stop which is the train station. Bus fare is $3 ($1.90 with pre-purchased tickets) which gives you 1.5 hours of unlimited bus travel, or $7.25 ($6 pre-purchased) for an all-day pass.

By bus

There is a Voyageur/Greyhound terminal in Ottawa with regular service to Montreal (departure on the hour from 6 a.m. to midnight), Toronto and all other cities in North America. The bus terminal is downtown on the corner of Catherine Street and Kent Street, between Bronson Avenue and Bank Street. Though the bus terminal is downtown, a 15-20 minute walk will get you to most hotels and downtown attractions. Alternatively, a 5-10 minute local bus ride will do the same. (Bus #4, with its stop around the corner from the terminal on Kent St., is the bus you'll want to take.)

A taxi to most downtown hotels should cost between $8 and $15, and busses are $3 one-way, ($1.90 with pre-purchased tickets) or $7.25 ($6 pre-purchased) for an all-day pass.

By train

Passenger train service is run by Via Rail in Canada and the train station in Ottawa is less than ten minutes from downtown by car, taxi or bus. There are several trains daily leaving for Montreal, Toronto and points in between.

The train station is on a high frequency bus route (#95) and takes only 5 minutes to get you downtown.

By boat

Sailing up the Rideau Canal
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Sailing up the Rideau Canal

The city is also accessible via the Rideau Canal, which runs from the St. Lawrence River at Kingston to the Ottawa River at Ottawa where it empties via a series of locks. It is possible to dock at Dow's Lake Pavilion and at points along the Rideau Canal and Ottawa River near downtown.

By car

By car, Ottawa is about a 4.5 hour trip from Toronto via the 401 and 416 highways. Montreal is 2 hours away via highway 417. The American border at Ogdensburg, NY is only 45 minutes away to the south, and the border at I-81 is a little further west at an additional 1 hour's drive.

Get around

Public transit

The city's public transit is run by OC Transpo and includes the bus service as well as the O-Train light rail system. The network includes the Transitway, a bus rapid transit system running through and out of downtown, with frequent service (on the order of 1-2 minutes at rush hour).

Standard bus fare is $3.00 CAD cash or 2 tickets. Tickets cost 95¢ CAD each and are available from local stores in sheets of 10. Children 6-11 require only one ticket. Upon boarding you will be given a transfer which allows you to ride any number of buses or trains until its expiry (in roughly 2 hours). A day pass can be purchased on any bus for $7.25 (or $6 if pre-purchased at a vendor) and is good for both buses and the train. On Sundays, families (up to 2 adults and 4 children, age 11 and under) can share a day pass.

The O-Train operates on a "Proof of payment" (POP) system. Valid proof of payment is a bus transfer (see above), or an O-Train ticket purchased from the automated vending machines for $2.25 CAD. Note that the vending machine does not accept bus tickets, nor are bus tickets acceptable proof of payment. Children 11 and under can ride the O-train for free. Some high-occupancy buses use this same "POP" system as well, where rear boarding is available to those holding passes or transfers.

Although downtown is very walkable, if you are within the downtown area (Lebreton station to campus station), you can take any bus going East-West. If you are going to the Market from the transitway (95, 97, 85, 87), get off at Rideau Centre and walk through the mall to the other end. To go North-South, take the 4 (to Catherine Street, edge of Centretown), the 7 (edge of Old Ottawa South) or the 1 (all the way down to the Ottawa South).

The Ottawa transitway (dedicated roads on which only busses are allowed) offers speedy travel to various regions, then transfer over to local buses, if walking is not an option.

By Taxi

Taxis are easy to find downtown. Elsewhere, phone for a cab or go to a cab stop (Greyhound, airport, and other places). All taxis should have a meter and the base charge is C$2.45. A ride from downtown to the airport will be costly, running between C$25 and C$35. Cabs won't take credit cards for fares below C$10. Most cab drivers don't know Ottawa as well as they should (and some know less than the average tourist), so have clear instructions and a map if you're going anywhere in the suburbs or on the Quebec side. Ottawa cabs aren't supposed to pick up customers off the street on the Quebec side; the converse applies to Quebec cabs in Ottawa. You may phone a Quebec cab if you are in Ottawa and vice versa.

By car

Parking at most attractions is convenient, though on-street parking in downtown areas is sometimes at a premium. If you are driving to downtown on the weekend, parking is free in the garage at the World Exchange Plaza. There are entrances to the garage on both Metcalfe Street and Laurier Street. A map is useful if you are going to be driving around downtown as many of the streets are one-way and more than one visitor has complained about navigating the downtown core.

Most major car rental companies have several offices in Ottawa with all of them represented downtown and at the airport.

On foot

Ottawa is great city to explore on foot. With pedestrian friendly streets and the density of attractions, a car is expensive and unecessary for the most part. An excellent place to start any tour of Ottawa is the Capital Infocentre, located directly opposite Parliament Hill on Wellington Street. They have maps and brochures for most tourist attractions in Ottawa, many of which are within walking distance.

A popular pedestrian area, especially during spring and summer months, are the various streets in the Byward Market. Sparks Street, running through downtown parallel to the Parliament Buildings, is a popular pedestrian area during the day and night, particularly in the spring and summer months.

Guided walking tours are available with Around About Ottawa. [2] There is so much to see and do in the Nation's Capital that a tour guide will maximize a visitors time and experience in this beautiful city. Around About Ottawa has designed a choice of four 2-hour walks that take guests to the most popular areas of downtown Ottawa. Famous landmarks and tourist sites include Parliament Hill, the Rideau Canal, the ByWard Market, and Elgin Street. All tours include some history as well as other tidbits of trivia not commonly known. Also popular is the Haunted Walk of Ottawa that provides a walking tour of the city's darker past.

Remember, during the summer months, the temperature and humidity can be oppresively high so definitely bring water if you're doing any amount of walking. If you are near the public pathways near the canal or the river, there are drinking fountains to refill your bottles.

By bicycle

There are usually a few options for renting bicycles downtown, and of course you can always bring your own. Ottawa is very accessible to cyclists. Again, you may want to start immediately opposite Parliament Hill to pick up a map of the area or find a bicycle rental. Cycling to the attractions around downtown Ottawa is a great way to get around, but don't ignore the Gatineau side of the river. They have several attractions along the river including the Museum of Civilization and if you want to really stretch your legs, Gatineau Park has many kilometers of great cycling paths.

The city is criss-crossed by many bicycle paths, some of which are shared with motorists, and some are shared with pedestrians. The city provides maps of the routes.

OC Transpo, the city bus company has bicycle racks on the front of many buses. You can load your bike on the rack and then ride the bus for the normal passenger fare.

See

Parliament Hill, Canada's house of democracy
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Parliament Hill, Canada's house of democracy
Museum of Civilization, across the river in Gatineau
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Museum of Civilization, across the river in Gatineau
National Gallery of Canada
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National Gallery of Canada

There are many national museums and galleries in Ottawa and neighboring Gatineau. All museums in Ottawa have free admission on Canada Day, July 1.

  • Parliament Hill [3] — for most visitors coming to Ottawa, the primary attraction is Parliament Hill. Parliament Hill is found in downtown Ottawa, overlooking the Ottawa River. Not only is the building a fine attraction itself, but it makes an excellent starting point to visit all other points of interest in the area. Tours of the building are available daily with multiple tours (in both official languages) available at staggered times throughout the day. The centre block tour is the most popular as it includes inside views of the House of Commons, the Senate, and the Parliament Library. Same day tickets are free and available on a first come first served basis from 9AM; therefore, regardless of the time you wish to take your tour, it is suggested that you pick up your ticket earlier in the day when you'll have the most choice of scheduled times. Tour lengths range from 20 minutes to one hour depending on building activity. If there are no more tickets available or you have to wait for your time, a fine self-guided walking tour around the grounds of Parliament Hill will keep you busy. Free booklets are available at the visitors' centre.
  • Parliament Hill Sound & Light Show [4] — put on by the National Capital Commission, it is 30 minute film about Canada projected against the centre block of the Parliament Buildings. No reservations or tickets required. Bleacher seating is available. Two nightly showings during the summer months.
  • Canadian War Museum [5] — Moved to a new building west of downtown in 2005 but still within walking distance of the downtown attractions, the museum presents Canada's involvement in armed conflict beginning with battles between the French and British, through to the World Wars, Korea, and the country's current involvement in NATO and UN operations. Admission is $10/adult. A joint War Museum and Museum of Civilization ticket can be purchased for $15. Admission is free on Thursdays after 6pm.
  • Museum of Civilization[6] — This museum presents the story of Canada's population beginning with Aboriginal migration across the Bearing Straight moving through European settlement with the Vikings, around 1000 BC, and the British and French in the 1500s. The museum is full of a variety of items ranging from full size Salish totem poles to the recreation of a small prairie town complete with grain elevator. The museum also incudes an exhibit on Canada Post and a separate museum for children. Addmission is $10/adult. A joint War Museum and Museum of Civilization ticket can be purchased for $15. Admission is free on Thursdays after 6pm.
  • Science and Technology Museum[7]
  • Museum of Nature [8]
  • National Gallery [9] Admission is free on Thursdays after 6pm.
  • Royal Canadian Mint [10]
  • National Aviation Museum [11]
  • Bank of Canada Currency Museum [12] — Free admission.

For the sports fan, Ottawa has professional hockey and baseball teams:

  • Ottawa Senators [13] -- National Hockey League (NHL)
  • Ottawa 67's [14] -- Canadian Hockey League (CHL)
  • Ottawa Lynx [15] -- Triple 'A' minor league baseball
  • Ottawa Wizards [16] -- Canadian Professional Soccer League (CPSL)

Do

If you enjoy the outdoors, especially if you are a cyclist, you should definitely visit Gatineau Park just across the river from Ottawa. Bicycles can be rented during the summer months at the northeast corner of the Chateau Laurier. Ottawa and the surrounding area boasts over 170km of public paved trails on which you can run, bike, walk or rollerblade. These trails extend throughout Ottawa, to the Quebec side of the Ottawa River and lead all the way to Gatineau Park and beyond. In addition, many of these trails pass by some of Canada's most famous political and civic landmarks, making running or biking an excellent way to see the city.

In winter, go skating on the longest outdoor skating rink in the world, the Rideau canal. Skates can be rented, and refreshments purchased, from vendors right on the ice. This is also a great place to enjoy a "beaver tail" which is a local specialty - a bit like funnel cake, often enjoyed with lemon and sugar.

In early spring (typically March), when the daytime temperatures are above freezing and night temperatures are below freezing, consider visiting a sugarbush for fresh maple syrup. There are many to choose from in the region if you have a car to drive out of the city.

Ottawa is host to over 60 festivals and events per year, including:

  • Ottawa Jazz Festival [17] in summer
  • Bluesfest [18], also in summer: The largest blues festival in Canada, and featuring as well rock, pop and world music. Many visitors come to Ottawa from Atlantic Canada and New England specifically for Bluesfest.
  • The Fringe Festival [19], another summer offering
  • Winterlude [20], winter fun featuring ice carving and snow sculptures
  • The Tulip Festival [21], a spring bonanza of flowering bulbs, given annually by the Dutch government, as well as a concert series featuring well-known Canadian rock and other popular music groups.
  • Canada Day [22], celebrate Canada's birthday in Ottawa on July 1st.

Learn

The two comprehensive undergraduate universities in the city are Carleton University and the bilingual University of Ottawa. Bilingual St. Paul's University is a seminary with ties to the University of Ottawa. Dominican University College is a Dominican university where theology (in French and English) and philosophy (in English) can be studied at the undergraduate and postgraduate levels. There is also Algonquin College and the francophone Cité Collégiale.

Work

The Federal Government is the region's largest employer with the high-tech sector firmly in second place. Unless you are a Canadian resident, you will need a work visa to work in Ottawa.

Buy

Byward Market
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Byward Market

The Byward Market [23] area of downtown Ottawa, located east of the Rideau Canal and the Chateau Laurier, is the area's most popular shopping district. In summer, stalls selling fresh produce and flowers line the streets, but even in the middle of winter there are some hardy vendors braving the cold — and maple syrup bought here costs half the price of souvenir shops elsewhere in the city. In the evening, the market shuts down and the area's restaurants, pubs and bars take over as the primary attraction.

Sparks Street is a pleasant pedestrian street one block off of Parliament Hill and a common tourist throughfare for seeing the sights. Along this street you'll the majority of the tourist shops selling postcards, magnets, and maple syrup as well as several outdoor cafes and restaurants.

Larger shopping malls include the Rideau Centre (downtown), St. Laurent Shopping Centre (East End), the Bayshore Shopping Centre and Carlingwood Mall (West End).

Eat

Ethnic foods from around the world are available at a wide variety of restaurants and street vendors throughout the city. The Byward Market area has a wide selection of different cuisines; the Chinatown area, with plenty of different Asian places, is along Somerset Ave. between Bronson Ave. and Preston St; Little Italy runs along the length of Preston Street, from Carling Avenue to Albert Street.

Ottawa's claim to culinary fame: a classic beavertail with sugar and cinnamon
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Ottawa's claim to culinary fame: a classic beavertail with sugar and cinnamon

Also try the tasty beaver tail, a doughy, deep-fried pastry associated with Ottawa, although a number of places claim to have created it. It's available in sweet and savory versions, topped with cinnamon, sugar, icing sugar, etc.

Budget

Ottawa probably has more shawarma (kebab and fixings in pita bread) restaurants than any other place on Earth and most of them will serve up a great shawarma for around $5. Their busy times are typically weekdays at lunch-hour, and on weekends after the bars close. The Market and Elgin St. both have several restaurants to choose from. The usual range of diners, bagel shops and fast food restaurants can be found in shopping areas throughout the city.

  • DiRienzo's Deli, Beech Street (just west of Preston Street). This little deli tucked away in Little Italy, a secret to many locals, is famous for the best and freshest deli sandwiches in the city for $3.50 CAD. During the week the lineup can stretch outside of the packed little store, but they are arguably the fastest sandwich makers anywhere so don't worry about a long wait.
  • Downstairs at the corner of Elgin and Gladstone are a symbiotic pair of businesses, a pub and a shawarma shop. Get a glass in the pub, walk next door to pick up excellent Lebanese food, bring it back to eat.
  • Elgin Street Diner (374 Elgin Street, downtown) is a popular diner. One of its specialties is the ESD (Elgin Street Diner) Poutine. Generally, poutine (the national dish of Quebec) is French fries, served with gravy and cheese curds on top; the ESD have several versions including the addition of carmelized onions and bacon, Monteal smoked meat, and even the substitution of mashed potatoes (called their house fries) instead of regular French fries. Expect the adventure to set you back $6-8 depending on toppings.
  • Govinda's Restaurant on Somerset West (just off the University of Ottawa) offers a simple vegan buffet for $5-$7. The best cheap eats in town. Operated by ISCKON (Hare Krishna movement).
  • So Good Restaurant on Somerset (1.5 blocks West of Bronson) is the local specialty is Chinese. All vegetarian dishes are also vegan (unless stated) and there are pages worth. Try anything "Wu Se" (peanut sauce). Dinners are about $10 (entree and rice).
  • For the best non-Canadian eats, head down Somerset street (West) near Bronson to the heart of Chinatown. Here you can try almost place for Vietnamese, Thai, Cantonese, etc. Vietamese soup-houses, Pho Bo Ga and Pho Bo Ga La, are well-rated. The Yangtze Restaurant and Chu Shing Restaurant (across the street from it) are large box Chinese restaurants popular with Ottawa's Chinese clientele.
  • For a great Thai fusion, check out Hot Peppers on Somerset (just off Kent). Be sure to try the coconut rice.
  • For Indian, there is Roses's Cafe (in the Market and one on Gladstone), but also try Curries (Gloucester and O'Connor, between Bank and Elgin near the business district). Or Moni Mahal on Laurier Street (business district, near Parliament Hill) for a large buffet with tons of vegetarian and vegan options (well labeled).

Mid-range

Major restaurant areas can be found on Elgin Street, on Bank Street in Centretown, on Bank Street in the Glebe, in Westboro and in the Byward Market, with entrees ranging from $12-$25. Similar restaurants can be found in major suburban shopping areas too.

  • The Empire Grill, Clarence St, [24]. Has a great patio in the summer and delicious food year-round. Expect to pay about $20 for an entree.
  • Johnny Farina's, Elgin St, [25].
  • Vineyards, in the Byward Market, [26]. An excellent restaurant with the widest selection of world beers and wines in Ottawa.
  • Pub Italia, 434 1/2 Preston Street (near Dow's Lake and the Experimental Farm), [27]. An Irish/Italian pub with over 100 bottled beers listed in its "Beer Bible". Noted for its eclectic faux Medieval/Gothic interior décor.
  • The Highlander PubThe Highlander Pub in the Byward Market is an absolutely fantastic restaurant with not only great pub fare, but traditional Scottish food, such as haggis. It is a good place also after a long day of sightseeing and you need a drink, with any spirit, wine or beer you can think of. It has a warm, friendly environment, with plenty of patio room. An average tab for a full meal for 5 should be about $80 CND.

Splurge

  • Domus [28], 85 Murray Street. An outstanding restaurant with an award wining chef serving regional Canadian cuisine. Reservations on 241-6007.
  • Signatures [29], at Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Institute. The best french restaurant in Ottawa. Rated 3 stars by Where to Eat in Canada one year after opening.
  • Eighteen [30], located in the Byward Market. An upscale, modern restaurant and bar located in a renovated 19th century heritage building. It is THE place to see and be seen.
  • The Merlot [31] at the Ottawa Marriott Hotel (100 Kent St.) has received glowing reviews for its cuisine and is Ottawa's only revolving restaurant. A bill of $150 is not uncommon after dinner for two.

Drink

The most popular bar areas are in the Byward Market, along Wellington Avenue in Westboro and along both Elgin Street and Bank Street between Somerset and Gladstone in the Centretown area. There are pubs and bars scattered throughout the city as well. In the last few years there has been an obvious increase in Irish-/British-style pubs in many areas. In the Byward Market on Clarence St. you will find Patty Boland's, the Black Thorn, and Ottawa's largest pub complex, the Irish Village. Along Elgin St. there's the Lieutenant's Pump and The Manx. If you are in little Italy (along Preston St) you can find Pub Italia, which has a large selection of beers from the world (especially Belgian).

The other local trend is with new clubs and lounges having numbers in their names. In the Market you have Suite 34 at 34 Clarence St. and E18hteen at 18 York St. On Elgin there's Club 292 at 292 Elgin and more.

For a punk rock feel, head to the Dominion (on York) for simple beers and some pool. For the alternative rock/new age punk, check out Zaphod's (next to the dominion).

Any Royal Oak is popular, and there are many.

You can also take a small trip over the Ottawa river to Gatineau. Bars on both sides of the river close at 2:00 am.

Note that smoking is not permitted in Ontario or Quebec restaurants and bars.

Sleep

Budget

  • Ottawa Jail Hostel, 75 Nicholas Street (across the street from the Rideau Centre), 235-2595, [32]. A member of Hostelling International, this hostel is in the old Ottawa Jail; the bedrooms are actually old jail cells. It's close to the Byward Market and downtown. Tours available. $24.15/dorm for HI members, $28.35 for non.
  • Ottawa Backpackers Inn, 203 York Street, 1-888-394-0334, [33]. Part of Backpackers Hostels Canada, includes kitchen, low-cost internet and free coffee/tea. In a converted house. The staff and the atmosphere are very friendly. $22/night for regular dorm beds, more for semi-private rooms. Free for volunteers (minimum 4-month term.)

Mid-range

  • Best Western Victoria Park Suites, 377 O'Connor St. (near Elgin St.). The hotel is downtown near the Museum of Nature. $100 (and up).
  • Albert House Inn, 478 Albert Street, [34]. The house is old but kept well, the people are very nice and the breakfast is generous. The bedrooms are clean and cosy and you can borrow books and newspapers.
  • University of Ottawa located within a quick walk to Rideau Centre and downtown, the university runs a guest house with private rooms in one of its newer housing complexes. As of May 2005, the rate for a single was $90 with a discount for University of Ottawa students.
  • Albert at Bay Suite Hotel [35], 435 Albert Street (corner of Bay St.). The building is nicely located downtown within easy walking distance of the main attractions, shops and restaurants. The hotel itself is a converted apartment building where you'll find large one and two bedrooms suites. Rates range from $119/night to $229/night for the one and two bedroom suites respectively.

Splurge

Chateau Laurier (left) and Parliament Hill overlooking the Ottawa River
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Chateau Laurier (left) and Parliament Hill overlooking the Ottawa River
  • Arc, Slater Street (near Parliament Hill), [36]. A trendy boutique hotel with prices to match its style.
  • Chateau Laurier, (near Parliament Hill), [37]. The city's grand old hotel: its oldest and most famous luxury hotel as well as one of its landmarks. Rooms facing west overlook the Rideau Canal locks and have stellar views of the Parliament buildings.
  • The Westin Ottawa (near Parliament Hill), [38]. The hotel is also connected to the Rideau Centre by a walkway. Rates start at $189 / night.
  • The Delta Ottawa Hotel [39]. 361 Queen Street. Located downtown, a few blocks west of Parliament Hill, near the Supreme Court of Canada. The outside decor is not much to look at but the one and two bedroom rooms are spacious and have kitchenettes, comfortable for a longer stay. Rates for standard hotel rooms start at $159 / night.

Stay safe

Ottawa is not a dangerous place, so if you use common sense it is as safe as any other city. There are many tourists in the city, especially in summer months, and there are very few incidents of robbery or assault.

Get out

  • Montreal is 200 km (120 mi.) to the east. One Canadian cabinet minister famously remarked that "The best thing about Ottawa is the train to Montreal."
  • Toronto is 400km (250 mi.) to the southwest.


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