
Ko Phi Phi Travel Guide
From Wikitravel
Ko Phi Phi is a pair of islands in Krabi Province.
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Ko Phi Phi was devastated by the Indian Ocean tsunami of December 2004, when nearly all of the island's infrastructure was wiped out. As of late 2005, services like electricity, water, Internet access and ATMs are up and running again. Waste water treatment and waste incineration are not yet rebuilt which you will certainly notice. |
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Understand
There are actually two islands here:
- Ko Phi Phi Don is the populated island.
- Ko Phi Phi Lai (also known as Ko Phi Phi Leh) is the smaller island to the south popularised when parts of the movie "The Beach" were filmed there - although it's uninhabited apart from bird nest harvesters and a few Maya Bay wardens, expect plenty of tourists.
Although rapidly becoming less and less attractive due to the masses of tourists as well as the construction on the island, it's still a very beautiful place to visit, and is one of those places everybody should go at least once in their lifetime. Ko Phi Phi is currently slightly more popular with backpackers than package tourists. Although the tsunami has temporarily delayed overall development, this phase will definitely be over by 2007.
Get in
Boats leave from Phuket and Krabi daily (several times a day during the high season). Tickets are 300 baht to/from Phuket, Krabi or Ko Lanta, and if bought in advance should include transport to the pier. Open tickets (you can fix the day at a travel agency on the island) are 400 baht, however there are rarely any advantages with buying open or return tickets, whereas one-way tickets are a good way to avoid hassle and often end up costing less overall.
Get around
Long-tail taxi-boats ply between all beaches; on Phi Phi Don, you can also walk to any beach. From Ton Sai to Long Beach, expect to pay 40 baht/person in the afternoon, at least 80 baht at night. To have a complete boat to yourself, expect to pay at least 100 baht.
Wheelbarrows are used to transport goods, including your luggage if you like. Expect free "transport" from the pier to your room, but not necessarily in the opposite direction.
See
- Highest point of the island - walk the (long) trail or (short) staircase for a nice view.
- Monkey Beach - accessible on foot or by renting a canoe, or be lazy and charter a long tail boat. Don't forget to take some bananas for the monkeys!
Do
- Ko Phi Phi Ley - take a longtail boat and visit Maya Bay - the "secret beach" where the movie "The Beach" was filmed. Water directly around the island is sometimes disappointingly murky and not so good for diving. The beach on the other side of the island, across from where the boats land, is slightly nicer.
- Snorkelling - there are two rocks within swimming distance of Long Beach, where blacktip reef sharks can be seen (dive schools organise guided tours for this). Dive schools take snorkellers on their dive boats, but expect to see only a hint of the underwater marvel visible to scuba divers. The snorkelling off Bamboo and Mosqito Islands is quite good although the reefs are a long way below you at high tide.
- Diving - there are many dive shops, and some very good dive locations. Prices are regulated, so expect to pay the same everywhere. Good diving spots away from the main islands are Shark Point and Anemone Reef.
Buy
Most stuff is brought in by boat, so most things are less original and more expensive than on the mainland. However, there are a few shops that manufacture their goods on the island. Prices for commodities vary widely between shops.
Eat
Food on Ko Phi Phi is not as spectacular as it generally is in Thailand, because most ingredients have to be brought in by boat from the mainland. Nevertheless there are some restaurants that manage to serve surprisingly tasty food:
- Cosmos - Italian restaurant that deserves the name - has two outlets on the island.
- Hibachi - all you can eat Japanese-style buffet. Excellent sushi selection for the price (200 baht). Two outlets very close together.
- Oasis - good Thai food and great cocktails. Waiting can be long but laid back customers don't mind.
- Papaya - a small green stall opposite the Reggae Bar. Serves authentic thai food, hot and spicy as it should be.
Drink
Drinks prices are quite high (cocktails 180 baht). Many bars offer similar entertainment, cabarets and striking fire shows - performed by the same people, advertised by posters and flyers apparently drawn by the same person...
- Apache Bar - a multi-storey bar overlooking Ton Sai, popular with locals.
- Beach Bar - located right in the tsunami wastelands and a good choice for those looking to have a quiet drink.
- Carlitos Bar - relaxed drinks on the beach served by amiable waitresses.
- Hippies Bar - nice place at the beach with a lot of fireshows
- Reggae Bar - popular place that organises mock Muay Thai fights most nights.
Sleep
Accommodation is relatively expensive - doubles range from 400 baht up into the 1000s the closer you get to the beach front. If you are a budget traveler expect to work hard to find a decent price. If you get really desperate a couple of places rent out tents for about 200–300 baht - mind your valuables!
- The Rock has 200 baht dorm beds, and a few 400 baht doubles. Clean and friendly place and excellent for meeting up with other travellers.
- PP Viewpoint [1] has a variety of rooms, from bungalows with fans to air-con with minibar, all with awesome views of the bay. Pool, full service dining, two bars, kayak rentals, diving lessons and a private trail to the viewpoint.
Get out
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