From Wikitravel

Reading [1] (prounced like "redding", not "reeding") is a town in Berkshire in the south of England. Its main attractions are the mediaeval abbey ruins, the rivers Thames and Kennet, the surrounding Thames Valley countryside, a major shopping center, restaurant and pubs.

Contents 1 Understand 2 Get in 2.1 By plane 2.2 By train 2.3 By bus 2.4 By car 3 Get around 3.1 By foot 3.2 By bus 3.3 By taxi 3.4 By car 3.5 By map 4 See 4.1 Central Reading 4.2 Surrounding Area 5 Do 5.1 River trips 5.2 Walks 5.3 Festivals 6 Learn 7 Work 8 Buy 8.1 Shopping 8.2 Money 9 Eat 9.1 Central Reading 9.2 Surrounding Villages 10 Drink 11 Sleep 12 Contact 12.1 Phone 12.2 Internet 13 Get out

Understand

More information is available from the Reading Tourist Information Site.

Reading is pronounced to rhyme with bedding. There are several possible derivations of the name, however the true original is obscured. Reading holds several Royal Charters permitting parliament to be held during times of plague or rebellion in London. This distinction granting the County of Berkshire the designation 'Royal'.

Reading has evolved from a country market town, most famous for the '3Bs' of Biscuits (US English:Cookies), Beer and Bulbs (of which only Beer has survived), to a commercial center specialising in software and insurance. As such it isn't an obvious travel destination in its own right, but if you happen to be here on business there is plenty to see and do.

The Forbury Gardens, located in the center of town, have recently been restored to their original Victorian Splendour. The adjoining ruins are the remains of a once powerful Abbey, sacked by Henry VIII during the dissolution of the monastaries. The song, Summer is A'Cumin In, was written at the Abbey and is engraved into a stone plaque mounted on one of the remaining walls of the Abbey Charter House.

Reading is also home to the gaol in which Oscar Wilde was imprisoned for homosexuality. These days it is mainly a remand prison for young offenders.

Reading is at the heart of an attractive area of the Thames Valley, sitting across the confluence of the Thames and Kennet rivers amid green rolling hills, thatched cottages and pubs. It is surrounded by numerous small towns and villages, many of great age and beauty. Much of it is now part of the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty with the Cotswolds being easily reachable.

It is a long inhabited and well domesticated area that sits at the junction of several major transport routes, both rail and road. As such, Reading serves as a major hub for commuter traffic into and out of London.

Incidentally describing Reading as a city could raise the odd eye-brow locally. City status in the UK is quite different to that in other English speaking countries in that communities used to require a Cathedral to be designated a city. Those not so blessed incorporated communities being formally described (like Reading) as Boroughs. Rules for city-status have been changed in recent years however. Central government now host a 'beauty contest' every decade or so to promote a town to city status. Reading lost out in the millennium contest (to Brighton) and it still rankles amongst the locals.

Get in

By plane

Reading is well served by London's collection of airports. For travellers coming directly to Reading, the most convenient (in reducing order of convenience) are:

• Heathrow Airport is about 40 minutes drive straight down the M4 (westbound) motorway. Alternatively it is linked directly to Reading rail station by the RailAir express bus service running every 20 minutes or so and taking about an hour.
• Gatwick Airport is about a hours drive away via the M23 (northbound), M25 (clockwise) and M4 (westbound) motorways. There is a through train service to Reading from a rail station in the airport terminal complex, running twice an hour and taking a hour.
• Stansted Airport is about 90 minutes drive away via the M11 (southbound), M25 (anti-clockwise) and M4 (westbound) motorways. By train you will need to catch a Stanstead Express train to London Liverpool Street station, the tube to London Paddington station, then follow the directions below.

By train

Reading is served by inter-city and regional train services from many different directions, including through services from Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, London, Manchester, Oxford, Portsmouth, Southampton, Swansea, Winchester and York as well as the airports described above.

From London, you should travel from London Paddington station and catch a train whose first stop is Reading (there are several of these an hour), the travel time will be about 30 minutes. There are other stopping services from both Paddington and London Waterloo, but these take so much longer it isn't normally worth considering them.

Train times can be found on the National Rail Planner or by calling 0845-748-4950 from anywhere in the UK.

By bus

National Express serve Reading with express bus (UK English:coach) services from around the country; advanced ticketing is necessary. Note that they serve a stop called Reading Coachway which sounds grand but is actually a drafty bus stop near M4 J12 with the only amenities being a nearby MacDonald's restaurant and a supermarket. You will need to catch a local bus or taxi (if you can find one) to take you into Reading.

By car

Reading is served by the M4 motorway (US English:freeway) which runs from London to Bristol and South Wales. It is about an hour's drive from central London. The best junction to use for central Reading is junction 11 and then follow the signs.

If you are visiting for the day by car, consider using the Park & Ride site at the Madejski stadium complex (just north of M4 J11 and well sign-posted) and catching the dedicated express bus from there.

Get around

By foot

The central area of Reading is easily walkable. From the rail station you will be able to take in the Abbey Ruins, the Forbury Gardens, both rivers, the shopping center, most (but not all, check) hotels, pubs and restaurants without needing more than shoe leather.

By bus

Buses provide a moderately good way of getting around Reading itself (say 3-5 miles out), with several buses an hour on most routes during weekdays, and hourly services in the evenings and on weekends. Beyond that distance, bus routes are much less frequent, with often only a handful of buses per day.

• Reading Buses, telephone 959-4000, provide service within Reading and some adjoining rural areas.
• Thames Travel, telephone 01491-837988 from within the UK or +44-1491-837988 from outside, provide services in other rural areas around Reading.
• Traveline, telephone 087-608-2-608 from within the UK, provide an impartial online travel planner and telephone query service for local bus services.

By taxi

There are two sorts of 'taxis' operating in Reading, although only black cabs are strictly allowed to call themselves taxis:

• Black cabs (which are not always black but are always London style taxi vehicles) in theory operate from taxi ranks around the town and can be hailed in the street. In practice the only place you can reliably find them is on the rank outside the rail station. They are always metered.
• Private hire cars look like ordinary cars except they have a Reading Borough Council plate on the rear (don't even contemplate getting in one that doesn't). They have to be called by 'phone (check the yellow pages telephone directory) and do not normally have a meter; you should agree a price before getting in.

By car

Whilst not as bad as either London or Oxford, Reading's roads can get very congested at peak periods. Especially if you aren't used to driving on the left, central Reading is probably best avoided.

On the other hand, a car is the one (possibly along with cycling) of the only really practical ways of seeing a lot of the local countryside and villages. Here the roads are quieter too.

By map

If you are planning to do any visiting or exploring beyond central Reading, you will probably want to obtain a decent map of the area. You should ensure that any map you buy clearly shows the national grid reference lines, and explains how to use them, as grid references are frequently used to indicate out of town locations. The best maps for this purpose are those published by the Ordnance Survey (Britain's national mapping agency) and the following maps cover all the locations mentioned below:

• Ordnance Survey Landranger 175. This map covers the area around and between Reading and Windsor at a scale of 1:50000 and is best for exploration by car or cycle.
• Ordnance Survey Explorer 159. This map covers the area around Reading at a scale of 1:25000 and is best for walking.

These maps can be found in any good bookshop in Reading (see 'Buy' section below), or can be bought online from the Ordnance Survey's web site.

See

Central Reading

Reading has several interesting sights to see within the central area.

• Reading Abbey Ruins & Forbury Gardens. These beautiful formal gardens were once part of Reading Abbey, and the ruins of the Abbey itself can be found between the park and the river Kennet. The Abbey's founder and benefactor was Henry I and he was buried in front of the high altar in 1136. The Abbey went on to become one of the most important religious and political centres in England. A few of the Abbey's buildings still exist intact, including St Laurence's Church and the Gateway, and the ruins themselves offer a fascinating glimpse of the abbey. Open during daylight hours. Free. The gardens were recently restored to their former glory and reopened Spring 2005.
• Museum of Reading, Blagrave Street. Situated in Reading's Victorian Town Hall, the museum explores the history of the area, from the Roman city at nearby Silchester through mediaeval Reading and its Abbey to the coming of the railways and Reading's 3Bs (Biscuits, Beer & Bulbs) economy. Open Tu-Sa 10am-4pm; Su 11am-4pm. Free.

Surrounding Area

There are also many interesting things to see around Reading.

• Basildon Park, Lower Basildon (7 miles west of Reading on the A329; grid reference SU611782), telephone 984-3040. This beautiful Palladian mansion was built in 1776-83. The interior is notable for its original delicate plaster work and elegant staircase. The early 19th century pleasure grounds are currently being restored, and there are waymarked trails through the parkland. Accessible by road or take the Thames Travel 132 bus from Reading (see 'Get Around' section for contact info). Open Apr-Oct W-Su noon-5:30pm. £4.70 (adult); £2.30 (child); National Trust members free.
• Mapledurham House and Watermill, Mapledurham (4 miles west of Reading on the north bank of the River Thames; grid reference SU766670), telephone 972-3350. Open Sa-Su 2pm-5.30pm Easter-September. Mapledurham is a village with a special charm of it's own, set in the valley of the River Thames, below the Goring Gap. It's cottages, church, almshouses and Watermill, with the old brick and flint walls, backed by the Elizabethan mansion and the still older manor house of Mapledurham Gurney, together retain an ancient village pattern which is rare today. The Watermill produces flour for sale, with wheat still ground by the traditional millstones. Accessible either by boat (see Thames Rivercruise in the 'Do' section) or a 15 minute drive from Reading. Open Sa-Su 2pm-5.30pm Easter-September.
• Silchester Roman Town, Silchester (8 miles south east of Reading; grid reference SU625640). Known to the Romans as Calleva Atrebatum, Silchester was abandoned after the Roman era which means that much of the archeology remains. All that is left on the surface now are a complete ring of city walls, the amphitheater and an little mediaeval church. Away from the rivers that have dictated the area demographics, Silchester is about as isolated a place as you will find in south-east England; on a spring weekday you are likely to find yourself sharing the ruins only with cows. Accessible by road or or catch a Reading Buses route 143 (see 'Get Around' section for contact details; ask to be dropped you at the Roman town; make sure you don't miss the last bus home). Open every day sunrise-sunset. Free.

Do

River trips

There are lots of things to do in and around Reading. You could try taking a river trip:

• Salters Steamers, telephone 01865-243421 from within the UK or +44-1865-243421 from outside. Run day trips from Reading to Henley-on-Thames and return with 3 hours ashore in Henley (or you can return by train); 7 days a week from May to September. Also less frequent trips from Wallingford to Reading. Depart from outside the Riverside Restaurant just downstream of Caversham Bridge. £8.50-£11.
• Thames Rivercruise, telephone 948-1088. Run cruises to Mapledurham House & Watermill (see the 'See' section) at 2pm on Sa,Su & public holidays from April through September; and shorter trips during the same days. Depart Thameside Promenade just upstream of Caversham Bridge. £3.50-£5.

Walks

Or there are many possible walks in the area:

• Thameside walk to Sonning. A very attractive walk can be had by leaving Reading on the Thames towpath from Reading Bridge and Caversham Lock (both about 5 mins walk from the downtown area) and simply following the towpath to the old village of Sonning. This walk is about 4 miles in length, and traverses both open landscape and wooded river margins. Return the same way, or catch a bus back (buses roughly hourly; no service on Sunday).
• Thameside walk to Tilehurst. Another attractive walk is to leave Reading on the Thames-side Promenade from Caversham Bridge (about 10 mins walk from the downtown area) and follow the towpath to the point where it abruptly ends (the site of an old ferry where the towpath crossed to the other bank). From here a path brings you up to the main Reading to Oxford road in the suburb of Tilehurst. A five minute walk towards Reading on this road brings you to Tilehurst rail station, from where there are frequent buses and trains back to Reading. This walk is about 3 miles in length.
• Views of the Thames, a series of walks from Goring Railway Station (15 minutes by train or 10 miles by road). The walks are from 4 to 10 miles in length and a leaflet is available by calling 01844-271316 or from the website.
• The Marlow Donkey & River Walk, a trip by train. Catch the train from Reading to Bourne End station and then take a delightful 6 mile stroll along one of the most attractive stretches of the River Thames to the pretty Thameside town of Marlow before catching the train back. Walk description downloadable from website.

Festivals

Reading is the home of two major annual festivals, both held on the Rivermead site (an open area alongside the River Thames) over a period of several days. Both festivals can be guaranteed to fill the town with visitors and happening things; if you are planning to visit during these festivals do book your accommodation and festival tickets well in advance.

• Womad (World of music and dance). Usually held at the end of July (2004: July 23rd - 25th), this is a celebration of world's cultural diversity through music, arts and dance.
• Reading Festival. Even bigger than Womad is the Reading Festival, held at the end of August (2004: August 27th - 29th). This has had several names in its life, of which the most descriptive was probably the Reading Rock Festival; officially it is now called the 'Carling Weekend Reading' although not surprisingly no-one ever calls it this in real life. Can be guaranteed to headline many major acts.

Reading also hosts a number of smaller, community based events during the year :

• Reading Real Ale and Jazz Festival. (2005: 14-16 July).
• Water Fest. A variety of events and craft stalls wind their way through the Abbey ruins and along the Kennet and Avon canal. The event is a particular favourite with children (2005: 25th June).

Learn

Reading is host to the largest University in England, Thames Valley University. Although the University is spread across the Thames Valley, the University in Reading has 20,000 students alone.

Formerly Reading College and School of Arts and Design, TVU mergered with the College in 2004.

Reading is also the home of The University of Reading which is based on a campus two miles from the city centre and provides a full set of university courses.

Associated with Reading University is Gyosei International College, a Japanese/British bi-cultural institution which has led to Reading having a significant Japanese student population. Around 1988, Gyosei International College's links with the Japan-based Gyosei organisation were broken, and the College became a charitably funded institution called Witan Hall. Recently, it appears that this has also failed and Witan Hall has been purchased by the University of Reading, who have closed down student recruitment.

Reading is also the home of several commercial English language summer schools, including:

• Padworth College
• Parkland Language School

Work

Reading is a significant commercial and information technology centre and if you have skills in these areas and the appropriate legal paperwork then finding a job should not be a problem. Reading also suffers from staff shortages in public service areas such as teaching or nursing, and campaigns are regularly run to attract overseas candidates for such posts. Otherwise there is the usual selection of jobs in pubs, restaurants, etc.

Buy

Shopping

Reading is a major regional shopping centre, with most of its shops clustered in a fairly compact downtown area. Shops are split between those on outdoor pedestrianised shopping streets, of which the principal is Broad Street, and those in indoor shopping malls such as the Oracle Centre and the Broad Street Mall.

There are three major department stores, John Lewis on Broad Street (often still known locally by its old name of Heelas), Debenhams and House of Fraser both in the Oracle Centre.

One store that should definitely be visited is Waterstones in Broad Street, if only to see the way this old United Reformed Church has been reused as a good bookstore. Both this store and Blackwells in Friar Street, stock a good selection of local maps and guides.

In general stores open M-Sa 9:30am-5:30pm and Su 11am-4pm although many stay open longer on some days and some do not open on a Sunday. The stores in the Oracle Centre are open M-F 9.30am-8pm; Sa 9am-7pm; Su 11am-5pm. The John Lewis department store has now discontinued Heelas's reputation for benign eccentricity and is now open on Mondays and Sundays.

Money

Most British banks and building societies have branches in Reading, and most of them are situated around the eastern end of Broad Street or around the adjacent Market Place. These branches normally open 9am-4pm M-Fr and 9am-noon Sa.

Most bank and building society branches have 'through the wall' type ATMs that are open 24x7. There are also clusters of stand alone ATMs in the Oracle Shopping Centre (see above) and the Rail Station.

Eat

The Reading area has over 250 restaurants of different types and costs and it clearly isn't possible to list them all here. Most city center restaurants are in St Mary's Butts, Kings Walk and the riverside area of the Oracle shopping center (mostly chains). Alternatively the Reading Restaurants website provides a comprehensive listing.

The following small selection are restaurants which have been visited and recommended by Wikitravellers.

Central Reading

The following restaurants are all within walking distance of central Reading.

• Beijing Noodle House, 13 West Street (in city center), telephone 958-8188. Fast food at its best; a very good selection of Chinese and south east Asian dishes delivered to your table at super speed. Decor basic but adequate. Open Su-Th noon-11.30pm; F-Sa noon-midnight. £5-10.
• Sweeney & Todd, 10 Castle Street (in city center), telephone 958-6466. A well known Reading establishment, which specialises in a huge range of delicious pies ranging from the traditional to new and innovative. Originally just a small pie shop, the restaurant has now extended into a conservatory out back, and into a maze of whitewashed cellars that must extend under several adjoining shops. Also has a real ale bar. Open: varies, but generally until mid-evening; closed Su. £6-15.
• The Gulshan, 20-24 Station Hill (opposite rail station), telephone 958-9914. Despite being located off a wind-swept walkway under an empty office block, the Gulshan provides tasty Indian and Bengali food at a reasonable price and with friendly service. Open: information needed. £6-15.
• The Griffin, 10-12 Church Road, Caversham (just over Caversham Bridge and turn left; 15 mins walk from city centre), telephone 947-5018. A traditional English pub, but with a strong emphasis on food including traditional pub food favourites, vegetarian, fish and meat specialities. Open M-Sa 11am-11pm; Su 11am-10.30pm (last food orders 1hr before close). £6-20.
• Loch Fyne, Bear Wharf, Fobney Street (on River Kennet about 200yds west of the Oracle Centre), telephone 918-5850. Housed in an old brewery maltings, this restaurant provides excellent (and apparently eco-friendly) seafood in an attractive environment with friendly staff and overlooking the boats passing through County lock. Open M–Sa 9am-10pm; Su 10am-10pm. £10-25.
• Chronicles, 17-19 Valpy Street (in city center), telephone 950-4613. A very cosy and atmospheric cellar restaurant, serving excellent traditional and modern British cuisine. Open M-F noon-10pm; Sa 6pm-11pm; Su noon-6pm. £15-35.
• Bel and the Dragon, Blakes Lock (just outside the centre). This is a friendly restaurant with a good atmosphere and reasonable food. Around £25.

Surrounding Villages

Many of the villages surrounding Reading have interesting restaurants or country pubs that serve food, and here is a selection. You will probably need to use a car or taxi to get to most of them.

• Blue Cobra, High Street, Theale (4 miles west of Reading on the A4; grid reference SU714644), telephone 930-4040. This award winning restaurant is in Theale's attractive High Street. Fresh ingredients are used to create contemporary dishes with influences from Thailand, Bangladesh and south Asia. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 6pm-11pm.
• Cross Keys, Church Road, Pangbourne (4 miles west of Reading on the A329; grid reference SU765634), telephone 984-3268. This old-fashioned country inn has low-ceilings, oak-beams and roaring fires for winter dining, and a delightful open-air terrace backing onto the babbling River Pang for balmy summer evenings. The food is good too; try the smoked haddock chowder if it is available. Open M-Sa 11am-11pm and Su noon-10.30pm. £10-£20.
• The Great House, Thames Street, Sonning-on-Thames (4 miles east of Reading on the River Thames; grid reference SU758756), telephone 969-2277. Housed in the old White Hart Hotel at the center of the Great House estate are two restaurants and two bars, an intriguing mixture of the historic and the contemporary. Both restaurants have outdoor terraces overlooking the river. The Regatta offers contemporary food with with Mediterranean and pacific rim influences; whilst the Ferryman offers a barbecue menu on summer weekends. Open daily for lunch and dinner. £20-£30.

See also the Goring and Streatley article, for details of several other restaurants in these attractive twin villages which are some 8 miles west of Reading on the A329.

Drink

Like most English towns and cities of this size, Reading has many pubs and bars. In the downtown area, there is a large concentration of formulaic wine bars and cafe bars around the east end of Friar Street and Station Road. Whilst reasonably civilised at lunch times, this area becomes a magnet for the youth of the region in the evening (esp F-Sa) who get tanked up before hitting the club scene. If that is your bag, grab it, otherwise steer clear.

• The Butler. For a central pub that still retains the flavour of an old-fashioned English pub, try The Butler, Chatham Street (just west of downtown). Here you will find bare wooden floors and decent beer and a mixed (age/race/sex) but reasonably adult crowd of regulars.
• The Corn Store. If you are after a quiet and comfortable bar, with good, friendly service and away from the crowds, try The Corn Store, Vastern Road (opposite the large pink office block just east of Reading station). The bar is at ground level, with El Gusto Italian restaurant upstairs. The bar staff are unusually friendly and helpful, and free food often appears.
• The Hobgoblin at the east end of Broad Street. This favorite among locals serves a huge and often changing (4000 to date) selection of real ales and ciders, many local. Try to get there very early if you'd like to take up one of the rooms around the back. Otherwise you'll be standing in front. Also do please shut off your cellphone before entering: if it rings in the Hobgoblin you may well find yourself tossed on the street.

Sleep

There are a large number of hotels and guest houses in the Reading area, but sadly prices are often akin to those in London and getting a room can sometimes be difficult.

For mid or up market hotels, your best bet is to use one of the online booking services, such as those found in our article on Finding accommodation.

For guest houses and bed and breakfasts, you may be better off contacting the Reading Tourism accommodation service on 956-6226.

Contact

Phone

Reading's area code (for landline numbers) is 0118 when dialed from within the UK or +44118 from outside the UK.

Cellphone coverage is generally good within the city and surrounding area; not surprisingly as most UK cellphone companies are headquartered in the vicinity.

Internet

If you are travelling with a laptop then you will find broad-band internet access in the rooms of most, but not all, medium to high end hotels. If this is important to you check before booking. Alternatively there are many WiFi hot spots in and around Reading and WiFinder provides a register.

There are also several places that offer web and other internet access if you are travelling without a laptop. These include:

• Reading Central Library, Abbey Square (eastern edge of city center). Offers (free) web access, although this requires (free) library membership which in turn requires proof of address; not sure if they will take a foreign address, but worth trying. Open M,W,F,Sa 9.30am-5pm; Tu,Th 9.30am-7pm; Su closed.
• Quarks, Union Street (pedestrian alley between Broad & Friar streets in city center). Cybercafe and online gaming centre. £3/hour. Open M-Sa 7.30am-9pm; Su 10am-7pm.

Get out

• Goring and Streatley -- a pair of Thameside villages with great views and country walks
• Henley-on-Thames -- an attractive Thameside town within half an hours drive
• London -- only half an hour on a fast train
• Oxford -- a nearby Thameside city with its famous university
• Winchester -- a cathedral city within easy day-trip distance and with many interesting and historical sights
• Windsor -- a nearby Thameside town with a splendid castle and royal residence

This is a usable article. It has information for getting in as well as some complete entries for restaurants and hotels. An adventurous person could use this article, but please plunge forward and help it grow!