From Wikitravel

Sado Island (佐渡ヶ島 Sadogashima, [1]) is an island off the coast of Niigata in the Chubu region of Japan.

Contents 1 Understand 2 Get in 2.1 By plane 2.2 By boat 3 Get around 4 See 4.1 O-Sado/Aikawa 4.2 Nakakuni 4.3 Kosado/Ogi 5 Do 6 Buy 7 Eat 8 Drink 9 Sleep 9.1 Budget 9.2 Mid-range 9.3 Splurge 10 Get out

Understand

Long a remote place of exile for politically difficult people, including ex-Emperor Juntoku and the militant monk Nichiren, Sado experienced a boom during the Edo era when gold was found at Aikawa. A major source of revenue for the Tokugawa shogunate, the mines were worked in horrific conditions by what amounted to slave labor, consisting of homeless people rounded up from the mainland.

Despite this grim history, today's Sado is a pleasant summer getaway of rocky coasts, green hills and quaint fishing ports, with a permanent population of just 70,000. Shaped a bit like an anvil, the largest town Ryōtsu (両津) is nestled in the eastern gap. Ogi (小木) is on the southern coast, while the former gold-mining town of Aikawa (相川) lies to the north.

Although the island has been populated for millennia, a large area of Sado (especially outside the central plain) remains unhabited. Road access for the Northeastern part of the island can become problematic in the winter after heavy snow. The mountainous geography of the island certainly accounts for this.

The northern half of the island is covered with the Ō-Sado moutain range (大佐渡), the southern with the Ko-sado (小佐渡) moutain range, the Osado range being higher (with peaks over 1000 m). In between, the Kuninaka (国中) plain is covered with rice fields and is more heavily populated.

The weather is pleasant in the summer, but winters can be harsh. It does not get outrageously cold, but it can get rather windy, and it ofter snows. Transportation from/to/inside the island can be affected, with cancelled ferries and roads closed.

Overall, visitors to Sado will enjoy its nice rural landscapes and its relative "remoteness" from the frenziness of the mainland. It is precisely the kind of old and rural Japan some travel (long distances) for.

Get in

By plane

There are on average 4 return flights a day between the tiny Sado Airport and Niigata airport. Refer to the Kyokushin Airlines timetable [2] (in Japanese) for detailed departures times. The trip to/from Niigata takes 25 minutes, on a small nine-passenger propeller plane. Note that there are no regular flights connecting Niigata and Tokyo, so take the Shinkansen instead. The plane connection from Niigata airport can however be useful for travellers from Hokkaido, Nagoya or Kansai region. A one-way trip costs ¥7350 for an adult.

By boat

Three ferry lines link the island to the mainland:

• Niigata-Ryotsu, the most heavily used lines with departures hourly
  • Jet ferries ¥5,960, 1 hour
  • Car ferries ¥2,060, 2.5 hours
• Naoetsu-Ogi, ¥2,060, 2.5 hours, 4-5 daily
• Teradomari-Akadomari ¥1,410, 2 hours, 2-3 daily

Services may be increased for festivals and cut back in the winter or in adverse weather. Prices above are for second class. Renting a blanket costs an extra ¥100. The jet ferries have only one class. All lines are operated by Sado Kisen [3] (Japanese only). English timetables are available here.

Get around

• Occasional buses connect most points on the island.
• Hitchhiking is a fairly good means of getting around
• You might want to consider renting a car (some rent-a-car in Ryotsu after getting off the ferry). Although the island is not very large, keep in mind that the coastal scenic roads are quite windy. A round-the-island drive following the coastal road would be over 250 km long.
• Bicycle is an option, but accessing the more remote outer coasts, where some major touristic spots are located, will require you to climb some strenous passages.

See

O-Sado/Aikawa

• Sado Gold Mine (佐渡金山 Sado Kinzan). Located in a former gold mine and filled with animatronic figures showing the misery of life in the mines. Admission ¥700, open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM. Located three kilometers from Aikawa,

• Sado's coastline is quite scenic, full of rocks, cliffs, gorges and more. Particularly well known are the Sotokaifu Coast (外海府海岸) and its Senkaku Bay (尖閣湾), to the north of Aikawa.

• The huge Ōno-game (大野亀) rock (over 160m high) is located on the Northern coast of the Island, with a small sand stretch joining it to the mainland. In this area is also located the Futatsu-game formation (二つ亀), two islands said to look like two turtles.

• The windy Ō-Sado Skyline road, joining Kanai(金井) and Aikawa (相川), climbs through the slopes of Mt Kinpoku (金北山 Kinpoku-san) for some very nice views of the whole of the island, especially around the spot called Hakuundai (白雲台). The road is closed during winter (end of November to April). The area around the summit of Mt Kinpoku is a restricted area under the supervision of the Japanese Self-Defense forces. It is possible to treck from the road to the summit, but previous necessary authorizations should be obtained.

Nakakuni

• There are a number of temples connected with the Nichiren faith on the island, including Konponji (根本寺), built on the location of his exile, Myōsenji (妙宣寺) and Myōshōji (妙照寺).

• Close to Konponji, Seisuiji (清水寺) is a Sado version of the Kiyomizudera temple in Kyoto. The Japanese caracters are the same... for a good reason : the temple was built for locals to be able to pray in Kiyomizudera without having to travel to Kyoto.

• Mano Goryo (真野御陵), in Mano, is actually the resting place of the (enshrined) Emperor Juntoku.

• On the road from Ryotsu to Hatano, you could stop at the Nogaku no Sato (能楽の里)[4]. The building, with two large Noh masks placed on a tower, is easy to spot. It could be described as a museum/fun park dedicated to all that is Sado-ish. You will also experience there an unforgettable Noh performance by animatronics.

• Sado is home of the Toki (Japanese Crested Ibis), however there are no wild Ibis left in Sado (the last known wild Japan-born Japanese Crested Ibis died in 2003), so visitors should head for the Sado Toki Preservation Center in order to watch the famed birds (from afar). The center is located in Niibo, roughly in the middle of the island. There are as of May 2006 around 100 Ibis in the premices.

Kosado/Ogi

• On the south coast, close to Ogi, lies the small and picturesque harbour of Shukunegi (宿根木) with traditionnal wooden houses reminescent of the Edo period. This settlement is close to Yajima-Kyōjima (矢島経島), one of the most famous places on the island to try Taraibune (see Do section)
• The Ogi Coast (小木海岸), near the town of the same name, although not as rugged as the northern coast, is nevertheless very enjoyable.
• West of Ogi and very close to town itself is the Sadokoku Ogi Folk Museum (佐渡国小木人俗博物館), housing hundreds of everyday life items from old and less old times. The display is somewhat chaotic, but it is still an interesting place to visit. The museum also houses a full-scale replica of a 19th century freight vessel, with plenty of explanations about the role of Sado as a major stop on old naval routes.
• In Hamochi (羽茂) near Ogi, Marudai, a Miso maker offers the possibility to visit a Miso production facility, with a small Miso museum. Entry is free [5].

Do

• The Earth Celebration [6] is a yearly arts festival run by the taiko (Japanese drumming) group Kodō since 1988. Performers from around the world join the event, culminating in Kodo's famously physical drumming performances on the bass-laden Ō-daiko (great drum). The group lives and works out in spartan conditions on the island year-round, and once ran from the finish line of Boston Marathon onto stage for a performance. Tickets are pricy (¥4000+) but well worth it, book early as only 1000 are sold — the concerts are all acoustic and would not support more. The event takes place in Ogi area, usually at the end of August, although it was sometimes held in May in previous years. Check beforehand. The 2006 event is set for August 18th to August 20th.

• For a more tame experience, take a spin (literally) in one of Ogi's tarai-bune, tiny little boats inconveniently shaped like barrels and rented out to tourists by the hour. Close to Ogi Yajima-Kyōjima is also a famous spot for tarai-bune-ing.

• There is a small ski field in Kanai, with three lifts [7].

• Sado hosts an International Triathlon [8] each year, with around 1700 participants from Japan and overseas.

• There are a few diving centers, in the Ogi area and Senego (for instance Sado Diving Center or the Ogi Diving Center).

• Trekking is very enjoyable in the O-sado mountain range (Northern range of the island). Remember however that you need permits to walk in the area around the summit of Mt. Kinpoku, those are however easily obtainable.

• If you are in the mood, try to remember the simple steps of Sado traditionnal dance, the Okesa (おけさ). If you are lucky enough to be on the island for one of its many festivals, it is highly probable you will witness an Okesa. You may also see other typical dances, such as the Tsuburosashi, a fertility dance with evident phallic symbols and suggestive moves. Hamochi near Ogi holds famous Tsuburosashi festivals (notably in mid-June).

Buy

The multitude of shops at the ferry terminal in Ryotsu should cover your basic needs for touristic souvenirs.

The main shopping and supply area of the island is located in Sawata (佐和田, sometimes also pronounced "Sawada" by locals). A small numbers of general stores, with a few 'pachinko' around is all you should expect.

Eat

Sado is known for its fresh seafood: sashimis and sushis are not to be missed. The Kamo Lake is also a growing area for oysters. There are a few cows herding on the green slopes of Osado, you can buy and try the pricey and renowned Sado Beef.

• Kassai (かっさい), in Ogi, tel. 0259-86-2124. Basic Japanese shokudō eatery serving up all the usual suspects, freshly made. Try the fish of the day.
• Oasis, in Ogi Tel.0259-86-2605. Restaurant & Tennis court .Transplated New Yorker Marcus Desoto & wife Kaoru own the Oasis.Restaurant specializes in New York staples -pasta,pizza & sandwiches -with decidedly Japanese touches. Oasis makes pizza dough the old fashioned way using whole grain flour seasoned with basil,natural leavening with fermented grapes and the crust is coated with virgin olive oil.Oasis also offers a bar try the home made ume shu -plum liqueur -and good cood coffee
• Benkei (弁慶), Tel. 0259-52-3453 [9] in Sawata in a (the?) Sushi Bar of Sado, which will allow you to give a try to the excellent local fishes. For those staying longer in the Island, Benkei also handles deliveries.
• Mos Burger just adjacent to Benkei, in case you can not stand typical Japanese food anymore. At the time of the writing (early 2006), it is the only burger chain on the island.
• Nakabori (中掘) Tel.0259-52-2045 is a good tonkatsu in the heart of Sawata with a very atmospheric ambiance.
• Tatsumi (たつみ) Tel. 0259-55-2238 in Mano should fill up your needs for good yakitori.

Drink

There are no fewer than seven sake breweries on the island, so do your best to sample them all.

Three of them are located in the hamlet of Mano (真野), on the western coast, which has proclaimed itself the independent state of the Alcohol Republic (アルコール共和国 Arukōru Kyōwakoku) [10]. Stop by the tourist office (Shinmachi 489, tel. 0259-55-3539) to sample the local wares and even pick up a passport (¥500) for documenting your experiences.

There are no permanent cinemas in Sado (although there is a huge Tsutaya video rental near Sawata), and only a few karaoke bars. Sado remaining a very rural place, do not expect to find a very exciting nightlife. You can enjoy a drink or two in the evening in small karaoke-equipped snacks in Sawata, but that is pretty much it.

Sleep

Budget

Camping is a viable budget option on Sado.

• Sobama. A 15-minute drive from Ogi on the other side of the peninsula, located on a beautiful beach. The official campground here costs a steep ¥1300, but especially in Earth Celebration time there is often overflow onto the beach itself. Toilets, pay showers, small shop and other facilities.

• Camp Kisaki-jo. A barebones camping ground consisting of a tiny shrine on a little cape jutting out into the large lake next to Ryotsu, bordered on both sides by Sado's two central mountain chains. No facilities.

• Futatsu Game Camp-jo. Close to Futatsu-game (and therefore quite far from Ryotsu). Facilities available, some tents can be rented during the summer.

Mid-range

There are many mid to high-range ryokans and hotels scattered throughout the central plain of the island.

• Sado Pension, 15 Toyota, Mano, tel. +81-259-55-3106, [11]. A small pension which should please both aromatherapy adepts and vegetarians. Rooms from ¥6500 with breakfast.

Splurge

• Yahatakan Ryokan, 2043 Yahata, tel. +81-259-57-2141, [12]. Large building on the Western side of the central plain, allowing for great views on the Japan Sea. Promotional rates from ¥8500/person, including two meals.

Get out

Sado is pretty much the end of the road, the only way out is back to the mainland.

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