From Wikitravel

Sendai [1] (仙台) is the largest city (about 1,000,000 people) in the Tohoku region of Japan's Honshu island.

Contents 1 Understand 1.1 History 1.2 Climate 2 Get in 2.1 By plane 2.2 By train 2.3 By bus 3 Get around 3.1 By subway 3.2 On foot 4 See 5 Do 6 Eat 6.1 Japanese 6.2 International 6.3 Vegetarian 7 Drink 7.1 Bars 7.2 Cafes 8 Buy 9 Learn 9.1 Buddhist Meditation 9.2 Japanese Language 10 Sleep 10.1 Budget 10.2 Mid-range 10.3 Splurge 11 Get out

Understand

Sendai is divided into five districts: Aoba-ku, Izumi-ku, Miyagino-ku, Taihaku-ku and Wakabayashi-ku.

As everyone here will tell you, "it's not too big and not too small, it's very convenient and it's close to both the sea and the mountains." Sendai is a comfortable and pleasant city — it's a nice place to live. It's very green — in fact they call it 杜の都 (Mori no Miyako, "Forest City"). The main avenues around the city are wide and tree-lined, giving the city an almost European feel. The main shopping street — confusingly known by two different names, Chūō-dōri (中央通り) and Clis Road — is pedestrianised and covered, so it feels like a mall. Several large universities are located in Sendai, attracting young adults from throughout the Tohoku area.

History

Although there is evidence of settlements in the Sendai region dating back over 20,000 years, it was not until the local feudal ruler, Date Masamune, moved his capital here in 1600 that the city began to take on any signifance. He established a fine castle on Aobayama (green leaf mountain) and the town that was built below the castle near the Hirose River was built according to the traditional street grid pattern. The original name of the area was also Sendai, but the Chinese characters for this name were changed. Originally they referred to a temple on Aobayama that housed a thousand Buddha statues. Later, Date Matsume changed the Chinese characters to mean 'hermit on a platform,' which referred to a mythical palace in the mountains in China. It is this latter name that is currently used by the present-day city.

Climate

There are two ways of looking at the weather here. One is the way most Japanese people seem to look at it: it's not too cold in the winter and not too hot in the summer. Others find it chilly year round. There is a long rainy season which starts just after the cherry-blossom blooms in April and sometimes continues right into Autumn.

Get in

By plane

Sendai Airport (SDJ, [2]) mainly functions as a domestic airport with regular flights to Sapporo, Nagoya, Osaka, Hiroshima, Fukuoka, Okinawa and Kanazawa. However, there are also a few international flights to nearboring countries, such as South Korea, Taiwan and China. Connect to the city with the Airport Limousine bus (40 min, ¥910). A train station opposite the airport is under construction and should open in 2006.

By train

Sendai is a major station on the Tohoku Shinkansen (bullet train) line, some two hours from Tokyo. The line continues north to Morioka and Hachinohe.

The fastest ride from Tokyo is on the all-reserved Hayate service, which makes just two stops (at Ueno and Ōmiya) and runs to Sendai in 1 hour, 40 minutes (¥10590). The Komachi service bound for Akita is coupled to the Hayate train, but bear in mind that Komachi cars are slightly narrower, and therefore, so is seating.

By bus

Many highway buses run to Sendai from various locations in the Tohoku region.

JR Bus Tohoku and Tohoku Kyuko bus operate highway bus service to Sendai from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo. There are five daytime trips and one overnight trip. Each run takes 5 1/2 hours at a cost of ¥6210.

An overnight bus service also runs directly from Yokohama and Shinagawa, costing ¥6500 from Yokohama (6 1/2 hours) and ¥6200 from Shinagawa (5 3/4 hours).

Kintetsu runs an overnight bus service, the Forest, from Osaka and Kyoto to Sendai. The one-way ride costs approximately ¥12000 and takes 12 1/4 hours from Osaka and 10 3/4 hours from Kyoto.

Get around

By subway

Sendai has one subway line traveling on a north-south axis, connecting major shopping districts with the train station. Key stations include Sendai for the train station and the AER building, Nagamachi-minami for the Mall (large American-style shopping mall including multi-screen cinema), Hirose-dori and Kotodai-koen for access to Ichibancho (covered shopping arcade), and Izumi-chuo for the soccer stadium.

On foot

The city center is compact and can easily be traversed on foot, especially by using the covered shopping arcades.

See

Sendai is not what you'd call a tourist city - it was flattened in the war and rebuilt after that so there really isn't much to see in terms of historical sights - in fact sights of any kind. The most famous sight in Sendai is the train station!

• Miyagi Museum of Art (宮城県美術館), 34-1 Kawauchi-Motohasekura, Aoba-ku, [3]. A reasonable collection of modern art. Special room for Juryo Sato a local (but nationally famous) sculptor. Beautiful garden and a nice view of the river.

• Aoba Castle (青葉城 Aoba-jō). Often recommended by locals, but what they mean is the site of the old castle - there's actually only a replica of a gate and a statue of the founder of the city, Date Masumune. However, the ruins of Aoba Castle is the theme of a famous poem written by Doi Bansui called 'Kojo no Tsuki' - 'The Moon over the desolate castle'. In the poem, the author touchingly invites us to reflect on the impermanence of all life, which is represented by the ruins of the once great castle caught in the light of the full moon. The poem has been put to music and is famous throughout Japan.

• Ōsaki Hachiman Shrine (大崎八幡宮). Completed in 1607, and is designated a national treasure. The metal ornaments and colorful designs displayed against the black lacquer woodwork is an especially attractive feature.

• There is a huge statue of Kannon (the Buddhist deity of compassion) outside the city that is worth seeing. However, don't expect to find it mentioned in any guides. Ask locals for directions.

• Sendai Mediatheque [4] designed by Toyo Ito is an important piece of contemporary architecture. Take a look at the outstanding structure while enjoying the cafeteria and design shop on ground level.

• Rinno-ji, (輪王寺) 1-14-1 Kitayama, Aoba-ku. +81 22 234-5327 - an historic temple with a large traditional garden, which is especially attractive when the azaleas are in bloom. (bus: “Kitayama - Shiheimachi line,” get off at “Rinno-ji mae”)

Do

• The biggest festival in Sendai is Tanabata (七夕). The festival starts with fireworks on Aug 5th and then the festival proper is from Aug 6th to Aug 8th. The streets are decorated with big paper decorations, there's a parade and... well, that's about it.

• In December, there's the Pageant of Starlight which isn't really a festival as such. The trees in two of the city's main avenues - Aoba-dōri and Jōzenji-dōri - are festooned in thousands of orange lights. The effect is is very pleasant, with the orange glow casting a warmth over the otherwise cold and frosty streets.

• The Donto-sai Festival is held at the Osaki Hachiman Shrine on January 14 every year.

Eat

Sendai's specialties include gyūtan (牛タン), grilled beef tongue; sasakamaboko (笹かまぼこ), a type of fish sausage; and zundamochi (ずんだ餅), sweet green soybean paste eaten with soft glutinous rice balls.

Japanese

• Rikyu (利久). A famous chain of gyūtan restaurants. Order the teishoku (set meal) - this includes meat, pickles, barley rice, leek, and a clear oxtail soup with real tail. There's one on the corner of Ekimae-dori and Hirose-dori (across from the AER building).

• Oden Sankichi (おでん三吉). 4-10-8 Ichiban-cho, Aoba-ku. THis restaurant specializes in oden, a Japanese fish stew of sorts with ingredients slowly simmered for hours if not days in a soy broth. Goes well with beer or sake, and especially popular in winter. A basic (if somewhat small) bowl of oden is just ¥500. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Sundays.

• The basement food hall in the Mitsukoshi department store is an excellent place to sample Sendai's specialities.

International

• Namaskar, Indian restaurant on Minamimachi-dori. +81 22 222-7701. [5] Located in basement so look for the sign on the sidewalk outside. Shows Indian films on a big screen. Very reasonable buffet lunch on Saturdays - branch restaurant in the Bivi building (opposite Yodobashi on the east side of Sendai station.
• Tirol, Great Italian on Clis Road.
• Hummingbird, Italian in Hotel Universe on Ichibancho-dori. Known for its fresh pasta.
• Osamu's Kitchen, fusion of international and Japanese dishes. Located on the third floor on the left of the street leading from Ichibancho into Kokubuncho. Signature dish is cheese fondue served in a crusty round loaf. Also reasonable 'nomihodai'.
• Benitora, Chinese dishes (spicy). Located to the north of the AER building by Sendai station. Cross the pedestrian bridge and look for the big red kanji (means 'red tiger').
• Heichinro, an upscale Chinese restaurant on top of the AER building.

Vegetarian

• Yuki Kitchen Consultant's Biologic Restaurant Potimaron (vegetarian and macrobiotic), 30-11-1 Kongosawa, Taihaku-ku. +81 22 244-6275.
• Fredrick Pantry, 3-10-1F, Kitame Machi. +81 22 715-8950 - a shop and small restaurant specializing in organic and vegetarian food.

Drink

Bars

Due to the numerous universities located near the city center, the nightlife in Sendai is excellent for a city of its size. Several small dance clubs on or around Chuo-dori fill with incredibly energetic young people most nights of the week.

Kokubunchō (国分町) is the main entertainment district. Full of restaurants, izakaya, bars, hostess bars and strip clubs.

• Club Shaft, Dai 3 Yoshiokaya Bld., Kokubuncho 2chome 10-11. +81 22 722-5651. [6] A DJ /Live Band Club and sports bar pub owned by English And Ozzie guys. Great atmosphere. Darts board. World food and beers
• Ha'penny Bridge, (near the east exit of Sendai station). A Guinness pub. Open M-Sa 5PM-11PM.
• Green Shamrock, (on Bansui-dori near Jouzenji-dori). Another Guinness pub. Open M-Sa 5PM-11PM.
• Vilevan, (on Clis Road near Sendai Station). A jazz bar. Free live jazz on Saturday nights. Last order- is 1AM.

Cafes

• Wadi Halfa 「わでぃはるふぁ」, 2-2-2 O-machi, Aoba-ku, +81 22 225-5241 - this Sendai institution often has live performances of Indian or African music.

Buy

• Sendai Hira - silk
• tsutsumiyaki - pottery
• yanagiu Washi - hand made paper
• tsuishu - lacquerware
• kokeshi - wooden dolls, popular throughout the Tohoku region.

Learn

Buddhist Meditation

• Rinno-ji Temple (輪王寺), 1-14-1 Kitayama, Aoba-ku. +81 22 234-5327 (bus: “Kitayama - Shiheimachi line,” get off at “Rinno-ji mae”). Zazen (meditation) meetings are held every Sa 6:30PM-8PM. Instruction is given in English and participation is free. Wear loose fitting clothing.

Japanese Language

• Sendai Language School [7], SLS Bldg.5F 1-16-23, Ichiban-cho, Aoba-ku. +81 22 266-8181, Fax: +81 22 266-8182.
• Sendai International Relations Association (SIRA) [8] arranges non-profit Japanese classes at various locations in the city [9].

Sleep

Budget

• Sendai-Dochuan Youth Hostel, 31 Kitayashiki, Onoda, Taihaku-ku. +81 22 982-0014. [10] The hostel is located about 5km from down town.
• Maple Sendai Youth Hostel, 1-9-3 Kashiwagi, Aoba-ku. +81 22 234-3922, Fax: +81 22 234-3923. [11]
• Sendai Chitose Youth Hostel, 6-3-8 Odawara, Aoba-ku. +81 22 222-6329, Fax: '+81 22 265-7551. [12]

Mid-range

• Holiday Inn Sendai, 1-4-1 Shintera, Wakabayashi-ku (6 min from Sendai Station). +81 22 256-5111. [13] Opened in 2001, this modern, fairly pleasant business hotel is within walking distance of Sendai station (at least if you don't have much luggage). Rooms are small but comfortable, and the breakfast buffet is a notch above the usual. Rates from ¥6,500 for a single.
• Hotel Sendai Plaza, 2-20-1 Hon-chou, Aoba-ku. +81 22 262-7111, Fax: +81 22 262-8169. [14]

Splurge

• Hotel Metropolitan Sendai, 1-1-1 Chuo, Aoba-ku. +81 22 268-2525, Fax: +81 22 268 2521, [15] E-Mail: e-kikaku@s-metro.stbl.co.jp

Get out

• Hot springs
  • Akiu is about 40 minutes by bus from Sendai Station (West Exit Bus Pool). Sakkan (a hotel) is right next to the bus stop.
  • Sakunami is about 20 minutes by train on the Senzan Line from Sendai Station. From Sakunami Station there are hotel shuttle buses to two hotels - the better of the two being Iwamatsu which has a big outdoor area with a few baths next to a river. Great just after winter when the snow from the mountains is melting and the river is rushing by.

• Matsushima, located about 40 minutes away by local train (Senseki Line), is a bay full of tiny pine covered islands and is recognized as one of the three most beautiful views in Japan.

• Kinkasan, 60 km away at the tip of the Oshika Peninsula, offers light hiking and lots of deer. Walk up the mountain to see monkeys. Stay at the shrine on the island and participate in the morning service (6am).

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