Tashkent Travel Guide
From Wikitravel
Tashkent (Russian: Ташкент) is the capital city of Uzbekistan. It is an ancient city on the Great Silk Road from China to Europe. Little remains of the ancient city after the 1966 earthquake and earlier modernisation work following the 1917 revolution. Tashkent feels more like Eastern Europe than Central Asia, with its mixture of modern new office buildings, hotels, parks and crumbling Soviet style apartment blocks. The streets are generally clean and there are not too many potholes in the city center. Further out, the infrastructure is not so good.
Over the last few years the Uzbek government has embarked on a major reconstruction program in the centre of the city. Roads, government buildings and parks are all being reconstructed. To the visitor, the new city looks very impressive, although many of the local residents have yet to see any improvement in their residential areas.
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Understand
Although Uzbek is now the official language, Russian is still the primary language used in Tashkent. Most businesses use Russian in their signs, menus and other printed material. Only government institutions use Uzbek as the first language, and even then, many government forms and reports are in Russian, rather than Uzbek. The Uzbek language currently uses the Latin alphabet rather than Russian Cyrillic. This is a source of some confusion for many Uzbeks, especially those who are older. During Soviet times, the written Uzbek language was converted into Cyrillic. Shortly after the fall of the Soviet Union, and Uzbekistan declared independence in 1991, the written Uzbek language was converted back into Latin characters. Many older Uzbeks have difficulty reading the Latin characters. Uzbek is a Turkic-based language, and while Uzbeks and Turks cannot completely communicate directly, the better educated on both sides can usually find some common understanding.
Many of the signs in Tashkent are in Russian cyrillic. A significant number of Russian words are similar to their English counterparts. Learning the Cyrillic alphabet - which is not as difficult as one might think (however, learning the Russian language is extremely difficult) - will help a traveller to read signs and in restaurants. It is very useful for the casual visitor to Tashkent to learn a few basic Russian words and phrases.
Get in
By plane
Tashkent airport is just a few km from the city centre. Airlines serving Tashkent include Lufthansa (code share with Uzbekistan Airways), British Mediterranean Airways, Turkish Airways and Aeroflot. A short and inexpensive ($2-3) taxi journey is the easiest way to get to the center. One should bear in mind, however, that upon exiting the international terminal, a large number of men will be crowded at the (sole) exit door offering "taxi" services. For the most part, these are not "official" taxis, often old, beat-up Ladas. "Taxi" drivers will attempt to charge whatever they believe the market will bear. For those without Russian or Uzbek language skills, it is best to arrange to have someone meet you at the airport. $2-3 fares are usually only obtainable by those who understand the system and speak at least some Russian or Uzbek. Taxi drivers will rarely accept small bills (dollars, euros or pounds), and cannot be counted upon to give change (in any currency). Baggage reclaim and customs formalities can take 2 hours. Make sure and retain the customs declaration form you will be given as you pass through customs. You will need it when you leave the country and may find it difficult to leave without the form.
The departures area is on the upper floor. The access road has been closed, so you have to walk around the left hand side of the arrivals level and up some stairs. Allow plenty of time when leaving the country via Tashkent airport. Check-in, customs and passport control can be very time consuming, especially if there are large numbers of passengers. Make sure and have the customs form you were given when you entered the country.
By train
Tashkent is a key stopping point for rail services from Central Asia. It is possible to travel from or to Turkmenistan, Dushanbe in Tajikistan, Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, Almaty in Kazakhstan and Moscow. It is possible to travel to China through Almaty and to Iran and via Turkmenistan. Ticket prices are cheap by western standards, but will need to be paid for in cash, preferably US$. There are many warnings about thefts of personal belongings on the trains.
By car
There are road routes from surrounding countries but the borders may not be open and there have been security problems. The border from Afghanistan is frequently closed or not open to non Uzbek/Afghan nationals. There is a risk from land mines in some border areas. The crossing from Kazakhstan near Saryagash is open and safe. Allow one or two hours to get through, especially from the Uzbek side.
By bus
Get around
The city has a good public transport system system which is cheap. The metro/underground system is typical of the old Soviet style with large and impressive stations and is actually quite modern. There are also trams and modern busses. Tickets (which on the metro are small blue coin size tokens) cost 160 SUM for any single journey. It is not permitted to take photographs in the metro stations. Police will usually be present on all platforms.
Taxis can be cheap after some negotiation, however some of the vehicles are very old. While there are official, authorized taxis (with the appropriate sign on the roof of the car), in reality almost any driver in Tashkent can double as a taxi driver. The local custom is to simply stand by the side of the road with your arm extended downward and slightly away from the body. A driver will pull over and you then state your destination and negotiate the fare in advance. At least some Russian or Uzbek language skill is needed to accomplish this without difficulty. It is usually safe to use this procedure, although virtually every foreign embassy recommends against it. Directions are rarely given here using an address. Most often, a landmark is used, "near the hotel Russia," for instance. Moreover, many streets and hotels have been renamed in the past few years but often drivers will not recognize the current name of the street or hotel, still knowing them by their old names. Asking to be taken to the Grand Mir hotel, for instance, will often result in a blank look. Tell the driver you want to go to the Gastinitsa Rossiya (Hotel Russia), however, and they will know exactly where you want to go. For non-Russian-Uzbek speakers, it is helpful to have someone draw a rudimentary map or write out directions in Russian. Few drivers will know English.
Do not expect western-style taxi services. Traffic in Tashkent is crazed and unpredictable. Taxi drivers will often smoke while you are in the car and asking them not to will most often result in nothing more than a look of disapproval. You may be paying, but you are in their car.
None of the major international car hire companies operate in Tashkent. Where car hire is available, it will include a driver.
- Tashkent city map [1]
See
- Alisher Navoi Theater for ballet and opera
- Various other theaters including the impressive Russian Drama Theater on Navoi street
- Amir Temur Monument and museum in the Amir Timur park
- Boghi Eram Recreation Park. Fun fair for the young and not so young.
- The central market 'Oloy Bozori' (known by most locals as the 'Alaskee Bazaar', Amir Timur Street has beautifully laid out displays of local produce, dried fruit and nuts.
- War memorial, eternal flame and park, Sharof Rashidov Avenue (City Center).
- Tashkent TV Tower. Viewing levels and restaurants with views of the city [2]
Do
Learn
Work
A typical monthly wage in Tashkent can be as low as $20. It is possible to live very cheaply if you do not visit any restaurants or other attractions. Most people rely on support from their family and friends.
Buy
Local produce - fruit, nuts, vegetables can be very good, especially when in season. In the late summer, local melons appear on the streets and in the bazaars and are rich in flavor and very cheap.
Most local residents do their primary shopping in bazaars. There are many of them in Tashkent, the largest of which is the Chorsu Bazaar. It is huge, colorful, teaming with humanity and offers just about anything that can be purchased locally, from produce to locally-made furniture and hardware. Hand-crafted items, including crockery, rugs, traditional dress, etc., are also available and far less expensive than in the shops frequented by tourists. Have a local go with you to the bazaars if at all possible. Foreigners are inevitably charged higher prices. Bargaining is common, but requires some language skills.
Saligokh Street, known locally as 'Broadway', has numerous bars and stalls, street artists, etc. It is colorful and worth a trip, but is the closest thing to a tourist trap one will find in Tashkent. The street is easy to find from the Amir Temur monument, just head away from the Uzbekistan Hotel. Paintings, antiques such as old cameras, crafts and busts of Lenin are sold in the park adjacent to the Broadway. The 'mirstore' just off of Saligokh Street has a modern supermarket, coffee bar and hugely overpriced fashion stores. This area, known locally as "Demir," also has MirBurger, which has burgers, pizza and local dishes at generally reasonable prices. There is also a Georgian restaurant ("Tblisi") and a chinese restaurant. There is a heavy police (militsiya) presence here and foreigners are not often, but occasionally asked for their documents. It is advisable to keep a photocopy of your passport and visa with you, but leave the originals in your hotel safe.
Recently, modern designer fashion shops from the famous international brands have started to appear in Tashkent. Catering for the wealthy, these can be found in the Broadway area, Amir Temur street and Pushkin street.
There is a shop on Shota Rustavelli street, not far from the Grand Mir hotel called Human House. It features hand made crafts and clothing of all sorts, ranging from full outfits to purses, beautiful hand-painted tea sets, ceramics, etc., at very reasonable prices. It is operated by a non-profit and is meant to help provide income to the craftspersons, who are often from remote, very poor villages.
Note: From the start of September 2006, all of the outdoor shops and restaurants have been cleared from Saligokh Street. It appears that the area may be reconstructed. However, this has largely killed the atmosphere of the Broadway area.
Eat
Uzbek national dishes are similar to those of other Central Asian countries. The national dish is P'lov (also called Osh). It is a mixture of rice, mild spices, carrots, mutton, fat, and, according to individualized recipes, ocassionally other ingredients. Shashlik - meat (usually mutton, beef or chicken) and chunks of fat roasted kebab style over charcoal. Samsa is similar to South American empanadas - meat (beef or mutton) and onion encased in pastry and baked in wood-fired, clay ovens shaped like inverted beehives called tandories. The local bread, round and flat, is also baked in tandories. It is called Non (or in Russian, "lepioshki,") and is usually delicious. Non from Samarkand is especially well regarded by many.
There are hundreds of small cafes in Tashkent (and other Uzbek cities and villages) offering these and other local dishes at very inexpensive prices. A meal of salad, bread, tea, soup and shashlik at around 2-3 USD isn't difficult to find. Bear in mind that sanitation standards leave a lot to be desired in many of these cafes. Especially on warm days, look to see if the meat is kept refrigerated before it is cooked. Often, it is not.
Budget
There are many small restaurants serving simple meals at good prices. Burgers and kebabs are common. Russian Borsch soup is tasty and perfect on a cold day.
- Bravissimo at junction of Shahrisabz Street and Movarounnakhr Street serves cakes and good local food. Russian language only.
Mid-range
- Polyanka Cafe - not far from Boghi Eram Recreation Park. Excellent food and cabaret entertainment (suitable for families).
- Nam Dae Mun - 24 Buhara Street, near Alisher navoi Theatre and Broadway, +998 71 1320105. Fine Korean and Japanese restaurant. Reasonably priced too.
- Tang Cheng Chinese Restaurant - 60A Amir Temur St. +998 71 1358916.
Splurge
Drink
In common with other countries in central Asia, tea is drunk by most people. Coffee, where available will usually be Nescafe. A better cup of coffee can be found in Cafe Amore at the MIR store just off of Broadway.
Alcoholic drinks are sold freely in shops or street stalls. Outdoor bars are popular in good weather. Uzbek wine, vodka (very strong) and many different beers are available.The Russian Baltika beer is popular. Baltika 3 is good and similar to other international beers. Baltika 0 has no alcohol, Baltika 5 and 7 are also good and Baltika 9 is very strong.
Nightclubs, as everywhere offer expensive drinks and typically play a mix of Russian and Western music. Strip shows are common.
- Pasha night club is part of Dedeman hotel.
- Club Diplomat S, Navoy Street. 200m from Dedeman hotel. Has billiard tables. Entrance 3000 Sum (free for ladies). It can be very busy and getting in may be difficult if your face does not fit.
- Studio Cafe, S.Azimova Street. Very modern cafe/bar with good food and drink.
- Fashion Bar, 25 Kunaev Street. At the junction with Shahrisabz Street. Another modern bar/cafe, showing Fashion TV on large screens with music until late at night.
- Diamond Club nightclub, below Arkada center on the Broadway. New and modern nightclub with a sci-fi theme. Check out the 'Predator' look-alikes.
Sleep
Budget
Mid-range
- Malika Hotel - http://www.malika-tashkent.com, tel: +998 71 1730203. Probably the best bang-for-the-buck in Tashkent. Well-equipped and nicely outfitted. Ownership includes an American partner. Room rates from 35-45 USD including breakfast. Also in Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva.
- Expo Tashkent Hotel - Located just next to the Expo Center.
- Rovshan Hotel
Splurge
- Grand Mir Hotel, 2 Kunaeva Street, Tashkent , Tel: +998 71 140 20 00, fax +998 71 140 20 40 -Luxury hotel for business travellers. Wireless internet connection is available. Rates include fitness centre services and healthy breakfast.
- Dedeman Silk Road Hotel, Amir Temur St,+998 71 1340101, [3]. Excellent and new hotel in city centre. Drinks are over priced. Free Internet connection in rooms. Rack rates from $160/night but booking through an agent will get a double for $80 with breakfast. The deluxe double rooms are best and will cost $90 with breakfast.
- Tashkent Hotel and towers (used to be Sheraton). Opposite Dedeman Silk Road Hotel.
- Le Grande Plaza Hotel (formerly BUMI) 2, Uzbekiston Ovozi Street
- Radisson SAS, Amir Temur St. About 2km from the city centre.
- InterContinental Hotel, Amir Temur St. Opposite Radisson SAS Hotel.
Contact
Stay safe
Visits to Tashkent should be trouble free. However, visitors should refrain from political activity or doing anything that could be regarded as undermining the state. Petty crime is fairly common, so watching personal belongings is important.
There have been incidents of robbery, including some violent assaults reported recently (spring 2006) in Tashkent, but such incidents are generally rare. Travelers should use the same caution they would use in any large city, especially at night. It is not advisable for foreigners to walk around alone at night, especially in areas where few people are about and/or lighting is poor.
In addition, there have been isolated cases of suicide bombings and related terror-style attacks within the past two years. Primarily, these have been aimed at local police and government forces, although there were bombings outside the U.S. and Israeli embassies in 2004. Avoid confrontations of any kind. If you witness a confrontation, especially in a crowded area such as a bazaar, move away quickly.
Cope
The local currency is SUM. Exchange offices should be used since the black market is illegal and rates are poor. US dollars, Euros, British pounds or Japanese Yen are the only currencies that can be readily exchanged, but notes must be in perfect condition with no marks. Money from surrounding countries, including Russia and Kazakhstan is very difficult to find or exchange. The exchange rate is about 1200SUM to 1$ or 2300SUM to £1. Local ATM's (known as Bankomat's) do not work with foreign cards. US dollars are available inside banks using international credit cards with commission of about 4%. The dollars can then be changed for local currency with another commission charge. Newer shops and hotels are accepting credit cards and Maestro.
- British Embassy, Tel. +998(71)1207852, [4].
- Embassy of the United States, Tel. +998(71)1205450, [5].
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