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Ubud Travel Guide

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Ubud is a town in central Bali, Indonesia.

Elephant Cave (Goa Gajah)
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Elephant Cave (Goa Gajah)

Contents

Understand

Ubud is above all famous as a center of arts and crafts. Half (if not more) of the town seems to consist of artists' workshops and galleries, mostly retailing cheap reproductions for tourists, but there are some gems to be found.

Rice Terraces (Ubud)
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Rice Terraces (Ubud)

Ubud has been growing rapidly in recent years and the central parts are starting to resemble Kuta a bit too much to some people's liking, but there are still terraced rice fields and quiet village life just a stone's throw away. Due to its location 600 meters above sea level it also enjoys somewhat cooler temperatures than the coast, although the midday sun can still be scorching.

Orientation

Orienting yourself in Ubud is fairly straightforward. There are two main streets, Jl. Raya Ubud (also known simply as "Ubud Main Street") and Jl. Monkey Forest (yes, really; even if there is an Indonesian name, nobody ever uses it). At the intersection of the two is the Ubud Market, the Ubud Palace and the main bemo stop. If you walk west along Jl. Raya Ubud, the area across the bridge is known as Peliatan. The town sprawls around for several kilometers in all directions, but if you choose a reasonably central place to stay it's easy enough to walk about on foot.

Get in

Ubud is 33 km from Kuta and 10 km from Denpasar.

By plane

There are hourly shuttle buses to and from Denpasar's Ngurah Rai airport (Rp. 35000 per person).

By bemo

There are regular bemos from Denpasar's Batubulan terminal to Ubud.

By taxi

If you want to take a taxi from southern Bali, it's best to charter the vehicle for a return trip, as otherwise you'll be hit with a 30% fee for going out-of-town. Metered fares one-way not including surcharge are around Rp 50,000 from Denpasar and Rp 100,000 from Kuta.

Get around

Central Ubud can be covered on foot, but you'll need wheels to explore the vicinity. On the main streets you will be accosted every few meters by people offering "transport", prepare to bargain hard.

By bemo

By taxi

While many drivers would be happy to do so, metered taxis from down south are officially not allowed to pick up passengers in Ubud and the local taxi "mafia" will do their best to prevent you from getting in. Local Ubud 'taxis' come in the form of black Kijang cars that can be chartered, look for the circular yellow "E" logo on the windshield certifying them as Ubud Transport Association members. Haggle the price but don't except to pay less than with metered taxi.

See

Goa Gajah
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Goa Gajah
Sacred hot springs, Tirta Empul
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Sacred hot springs, Tirta Empul

The town of Ubud has few sights as such, and you'll need some form of transport to get to the temples in the vicinity. The easiest and cheapest option is to join a tour, or just charter a taxi/bemo for a few hours.

  • Museum Puri Lukisan (Museum of Fine Arts), Jl. Raya Ubud (spot the sign and cross the bridge to enter), [1]. Three buildings showcasing traditional and modern Balinese art. The displays are musty and English labeling is a little spotty, but some of the works, particularly the carvings, are quite amazing. Entrance Rp 20,000.
  • Monkey Forest, south end of Jl. Monkey Forest. A forest full of ravenous monkeys, so don't bring any food or risk bites and rabies injections. Stroll through to find Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, a Temple of the Dead.

All of the following temples cost Rp. 6000/3000 adults/children, and can be reached by taking bemos towards Tampaksiring. Everybody must wear a sash, available at the entrance for a Rp. 1000 donation, and either long pants or a sarong (from Rp. 5000 from hawkers).

  • Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), 3 km east from Ubud. A popular little excursion from Ubud, the centerpiece here is a cave, whose entrance is an ornately carved demon's mouth. Inside are some fragmentary lingam and yoni (phallus and vagina) statues, as well as a statue of Ganesha. Statues stand guard around pools near the entrance and a little path leads to a waterfall, rice fields and some Buddhist stupa fragments.
  • Gunung Kawi (Poet Mountain), Tampaksiring, 18 km northeast from Ubud. Dating from the 11th century, this is presumed to be the burial complex of King Anak Wungsu and his many wives. Reached by climbing down 371 steps, the location at the bottom of a steep valley lined with paddy fields is stunning. The smaller complex on the south side of the river is presumed to be for the king's wives, while the larger complex is thought to be for the King himself and perhaps his concubines. You must take off your shoes before entering into the central pura complex. About one km downstream there are further tomb cloisters. On the way back up, take a break at Cafe Kawi, which has cold drinks (Rp. 10000 up) and fresh breezes (free).
  • Tirta Empul, Tampaksiring, 20 km northeast from Ubud. One of the holiest temples on Bali, built around hot springs that now bubble eerily in the central courtyard. Balinese themselves come here to bathe and purify themselves physically and spiritually, and during Galungan the sacred barong masks are bathed here. The complex dates to 960, but the present buildings are all modern reconstructions.

Do

As a center of the arts, Ubud has dance and shadow puppet performances every night and plenty of spas for resynchronizing your healing chakras.

Cultural performances

  • Puri Saren and Puri Saraswati, Jl. Raya Ubud (just east of Jl Monkey Forest). Smack dab in the centre of town, dance performances (Rp. 50,000 up) are staged here almost nightly.

Spas

  • Pertenin Body Care, Jl. Jatayu, tel. +62-361-972-834, [2].
    Facial treatments and massage in a relaxing modern environment. From Rp 85000/hour, free pickup for two or more from anywhere in Ubud.
  • The Lembah Spa, Jln. Lanyahan, Br Nagi, tel. +62-361-971-777, offical website.
    The Lembah Spa offers the best of exotic Asian massages and treatments, combined with the expertise of masseurs in sophisticated European treatments.

Buy

Inside Ubud Market
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Inside Ubud Market

Ubud has a vast assortment of art and jewellery shops. Head for boutiques for higher quality (and higher prices), or down to the market for bulk-produced cheapies.

  • Ubud Market, corner of Monkey Forest Rd and Jl. Raya Ubud. A two-story warren of stalls bursting at the seams with wood carvings, batik shirts, sarongs and anything else a tourist could possibly want as souvenirs. The merchants here haggle with tourists for a living and think nothing of asking for ten times the going price, so try to establish a baseline before you go in and buy.

Eat

Budget

  • Warung Igelanca, Jl. Raya Ubud, tel. +62-815-894-3251. Cheap and cheerful Indonesian favorites like nasi campur, fried rice and noodles, plus (this being Ubud) a range of herbal drinks.

Mid-range

  • Casa Luna, Jalan Raya Ubud, Bali, +62-361-973282, [3]. Western and local dishes (sometimes falling somewhere in between). Afer eating five or six meals here, my friend asked if we shouldn't branch out, try other places, and I said absolutely not. We can eat elsewhere when we're not in Ubud.
  • Dragonfly, Jln. Dewi Sita (off Jl. Monkey Forest at football field), tel. +62-361-972973. Opened in 2006, this conveniently located restaurant offers fusionesque "West-East" eats, traditional Indonesian fare, and even a few Mexican dishes (ole!). It also has *free* WiFi.
  • Gayatri Cafe, Jl. Monkey Forest. Notionally Indian restaurant serving up both vegetarian and meaty versions of standard Indonesian fare, plus a few oddballs like pizza, from Rp 20,000 up.
  • Nomad, Jl. Raya Ubud 35, tel. +62-361-977169, [4]. Serves up a good selection of Balinese, Indonesian and Western dishes, but deservedly popular is their "tapas" selection, consisting of bite-sized portions of local flavors. 12 tapas with rice costs Rp. 60000 and feeds two.

Splurge

  • Bebek Bengil, Hanoman Rd.
    Bebek Bengil (balinese for Dirty Duck) is an interesting restaurant with paddy field view and nice gardens. They are famous for their crispy fried duck, and some European based menu. They have interesting selections of cakes as well. Expect to spend 100.000 IDR per head.
  • CasCades Restaurant, Jln. Lanyahan, Br Nagi, Tel: +62-361-972-111, offical website
    CasCades Restaurant Food Pic
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    CasCades Restaurant Food Pic

    The menu showcases the best Bali has to offer. Firmly rooted in the classical French style, the menu offers such treasures as:
    "Caresse de Thon" (Tuna Fish, Potato Crust on Braised Lima Bean, Calamari with Piquillo, Tomato Comfits, Mascarpone & Vanilla Emulsion)
    "Canard Enchaîne" (Duck Leg Confit ,Braised le puy Lentil & Port Wine Sauce)
    "Un Petit Jésus Dans Une Culotte de Velours"(Pan Fried duck liver on onion, dates Compote with Passion Fruit Sorbet).
    CasCades designs six-course degustation menus for the truly adventurous palate, Very nice restaurant and location but expect to pay about Rp.400,000 per person.

Drink

Ubud has quite a few hip places for a quiet drink, but the strictly enforced regulation that all live performances must end by 10:30 PM puts a bit of a clamp on the local nightlife.

  • Ary's Warung, Jl. Raya Ubud 35 (opp Puri Saraswati). Don't be fooled by the name, this is a stylish watering hole with a large bar downstairs, complete with sofas and cow-leather bar stools, and a rather less busy restaurant upstairs. Drinks are expensive but generously sized.
  • Jazz Cafe, Jl. Sukma No. 2 Tebesaya (in Peliatan), tel. +62-361-976594. Wonderful outdoor jazz bar with more than ordinarily competent live bands nightly. A limited food menu and a wide selection of drinks (Rp. 50000 or so).

Sleep

Budget

  • Rumah Roda Homestay and Restaurant, Jalan Kajeng 24 Ubud, Bali 80571, +62-361-975487, [5]. Lovely family compound with rooms for less than $10. The restaurant is also a treat - catch the Sunday evening buffet.


Mid-range

  • Oka Kartini, Jl. Raya Ubud 35 (just across the bridge in Peliatan), +62-361-975759, [6]. Quirky old Balinese house complex on the edge of town, the rooms here are a bit long in tooth but decorated with more carvings and gold paint than the average temple. Friendly staff watched over by the remarkable lady Oka Kartini herself, large art gallery, small but lovely garden pool, dance performances nightly (separate charge). Fan/AC rooms $30-$45, including breakfast.

Splurge

  • Barong Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali, 80571. Tel: +62-361-971759. Nestled in the paddy fields of Ubud, the resort provides both accomodation and spa facilities that reflect Bali's tranquility. Offering 5 star hotel rooms, prices start from USD 200 upwards
  • Bumi Ayu Villa [7] is a two storey, two bedrooms, bungalow in the forest on a cliff overlooking the river behind the village of Sebatu. Sebatu is on the road from Ubud to Kintamani. 120e/person/day, including driver available for the full day.
  • The Viceroy Bali, Jln. Lanyahan, Br Nagi. Tel: +62-361-971-777, offical website
    The Viceroy Bali is a luxury Resort 5 min from the center of Ubud and offers private villas with pools, satterlite TV, bath, shower, king beds, free broadband internet access and helicopter transfers.
    Prices for the villas range from US$ 800 - US$ 2,500 per night.

Get out

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