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Varanasi Travel Guide

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Varanasi [1], once known as Banaras, is one of India's holiest cities for Hindus and the oldest continuously inhabited one indeed the world. It is part of the "Golden Triangle" of Indian tourism, and a major tourist destination. Varanasi can be a bit overwhelming at times, for newcomers to India, with so much life, death, and aggressive salesmanship all rolled into one. It is a bit of a microcosm of India.

Contents

Understand

Get in

By train

Most people coming from elsewhere in India will arive by train. Conections with Delhi and Agra several times a day. There is a daily train from Lucknow. There's an night express from a station near Agra to Varanasi (departure around 19h and arrival around 07h). There are two railway stations. Check which one is nearer your hotel.

By bus

Travelers coming from Nepal will be come by bus.

By plane

It has an Airport, with a bus that links to Varanasi (about 1 hour travel). To go to the airport the bus leaves near the hotel India, at 10:00 (approx), price 50rs/person. Expect to pay approximately 200 to 250 rs for a taxi to the airport.

Get around

Many of the sights are in the tiny narrow winding alleys of the waterfront. Rickshaws are only useful for longer trips across town or to the train station. Taxis exist but traffic makes them impractical.

By foot is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost. Local children are happy to point you in the right direction for a few rupees. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters.

See

  • Viswanath Temple
  • Alamagir Mosque
  • Man Mandir Observatory
  • Tusli Mana Temple
  • Durga Temple
  • Benaras Hindu University

Ghats

  • Panchaganga Ghat
  • Manikarnika Ghat
  • Dasawamedh Ghat, one of the main ghats, restricted to rickshaw you have to walk 5 minutes approx to arrive.
  • Rana Ghat
  • Kedar Ghat
  • Harishchandra Ghat
  • Hanuman Ghat
  • Shivala Ghat
  • Tulsidas Ghat
  • Asi Ghat

Do

Varinasi is a popular traveler hangout, with many travelers taking, yoga or Indian clsical music lessons lessons, the main activity is being inactive, marijuana is widely avalable and popular.

Take a boat during sunset for one hour (about 50 rs/person), includes a visit to crematories (if you want), a donation is asked in the crematories. Dasawamedh Ghat it's a good place to take the boat.

See the Puja (hindu ceremony) from the Ghats or from a boat. It's at the evening, confirm the starting time. Dasawamedh Ghat it's also a good Ghat.

Make the extra effort and take also the boat just before sunrise. You'll see one of the most impressive sights in India, when many hindus bathing in the gangas at this time.

Get lost in the old market, the sounds, sight and smells are just unbelievable!

Learn

There are many places offering Lessons in Indian clasical music, and Yoga, of varying quality. Ask around to find out what's recomended. Varanasi Hindu University [2], offers a wide range of classes in on topics related to clasical Indian studies in English.

Work

There is very little opportunity for work in Varanasi, unless you have a specific skill in demand.

Buy

  • Varanasi is famous for its fine silk.

Eat

There are numerous food outlets Varanasi, and there is a very dynamic range in quality. The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to forien tourists, with variable secsess. To get really authentic Banarasi khana you're going to have to get to the main market area. Varanasi is known for its desserts.

Gee restaurant is not recomended.

Budget

Mid-range

Splurge

Drink

Sleep

Generally the more interesting area to stay is around the ghats, along the river Ganges. This is where most foreigners hang out, with reason. The main ghat, temples, market area are all within short walking distance. It's easy enough once you are in this area to walk around, and look at diferent places to see what you like.

Budget

  • Shanti Guesthouse -- There are several hotels near the ghats that have taken the name "Shanti" after the origanals good reputation. The "original" is a clean but very basic building with several floors of windowless rooms (cooler and safer than ones with exterior windows). The rooftop cafe offers money changing, internet access, and a view of the Burning Ghats.
  • The Yogi Lodge -- This is a quaint kindly managed hotel with dorms and private rooms near the main ghat. Telephone: 239 2588. There are many Yogi Lodges, so the management suggests that you call them when you arrive at the train station and they will send somebody down to collect you or you can arrange to meet at the St. Thomas church. The price for a rickshaw should be no more than 30 rp to the main ghat.
  • Sahi Riverview Guest House-- the place is very clean, quiet, and recommended. Newly opened the Guest House has the most fascinating Ganges views and the exotic sunrise from its balconies, rooms and terrace. Location is right on Assi Ghat,next to Harmony Book Shop. All rooms have 24 hrs hot water with attatched bathrooms. You will get a very homely touch. Monkey Temple, Tulsi Manas Temple, BHU and Red Fort are very approachable.
  • Vishnu Rest House on Panday Ghat Tel:450206 is a very clean and friendly guest house over looking the river.

Mid-range/Splurge

Contact

Stay safe

Violent crime is rare, but do be careful in the lanes after dark. Carry a torch; power outages are extremely common, and the alleys are hard enough to navigate in daylight let alown in pitch dark, with broken paving stones and cows common.

Women need to dress conservatively, and to be careful. Even taking precautions expect to have the odd local young man to try to quicklly grope you, and run away. Respond agressively and loudly to try to discourage this behavior as much as possible.

Cope

Get out

  • Nepal -- buses travel to the Nepali border where you can transfer to Kathmandu and Chitwan buses. Most buses go via Lucknow and can take 8-12 hours. Airplanes going to Nepal via Varanasi every day.
  • Agra -- is the next point on the tourist triangle. Buses and trains, including overnight trains, leave several times a day.
  • Sarnath -- site of the Buddha's first sermon
  • Ramnagar Fort -- historical royal residence and museum across the Ganges
  • Chunar Fort -- ruins of battlements and ancient settlement 15 miles from Varanasi.
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