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Victoria (British Columbia) Travel Guide

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Victoria [1] is the capital of the province of British Columbia, Canada. It is located near the southern tip of Vancouver Island. It is a medium sized (approx. 350,000 in Greater Victoria, including the Saanich Peninsula) and beautiful city. Nicknamed the Garden City for Butchart Gardens and much greenspace. It is also said to lie within the world's most northern Mediterranean climate at a latitude of 48.5 North.

Contents

Get in

By boat

The main way to get to Vancouver Island and Victoria is by ferry:

  • BC Ferries, 1-888-223-3779, [2] operates a ferry from Tsawwassen (south of Vancouver) to Swartz Bay, a half hour drive north of Victoria. Cost is about $35CAD for a car and $10CAD per person (more in peak season, and rising with fuel surcharges) each way. Payment can be made by cash or credit card (no debit cards yet). Service runs on the odd hours between 7am and 9pm during the winter (with extra sailings at busier times) and every hour during the summer. The ferry ride is 1 hour 35 minutes. Reservations are never required, but recommended for vehicles during peak travel times, including weekends throughout the summer months. There is a $15 charge for reservations if made 7 days in advance; $17.50 if less than 7 days.
  • PCL, 1-800-661-1725, [3] offers an express coach service between downtown Vancouver and downtown Victoria. This service runs on BC Ferries, and tickets can be purchased onboard for the trip into town. Cost from downtown Vancouver to downtown Victoria is approx. $35 one way, or approx. $10 for the trip into town.
  • BC Transit, 382-6161, [4] offers bus service from the fery terminal to downtown Victoria, with many stops in between. This route takes quite some time and is often very full.
  • Victoria Clipper, 1-800-888-2535, [5] operates a modern ultra-fast catamaran ferry from downtown Seattle. Fares $US66-80 less for seniors, half price for children. Service is once a day in the winter and up to 3 times a day in the summer. The sailing time is 2.5 hours.
  • Victoria Express, 361-9144, [6] operates a passenger ferry service from Port Angeles, Washington, about 20 miles south of Victoria on the Olympic Peninsula. Fares are $US 13.00 per passenger. Service runs from spring to fall only. Travelling time is approximately one hour.
  • MV Coho, 386-2202, [7] is a passenger and vehicle ferry running from Port Angeles, Washington. Crossing time is 95 minutes, and fares are $US40.00 for car and driver and $10.50 per passenger ($5.25 for children under 11). Service runs all year except for an annual refit, generally while the Victoria Express is in service. In the winter, this ferry runs 2 sailings a day and in the summer up to 4 sailings a day are scheduled.
  • Washington State Ferries, 206-464-6400, [8] operates a passenger vehicle ferry between Anacortes and Sidney (about half an hour from Victoria).

By plane

Victoria International Airport is located 30 minutes north of Victoria (off the Pat Bay Highway, on the way to the ferry terminal). Multiple flights per hour to and from Vancouver. Also from Seattle (unknown frequency), and with lesser frequency direct from Calgary (Air Canada and WestJet), Edmonton(Air Canada and WestJet), and Toronto. Public transit from Victoria International to the city isn't that great but there IS a shuttle bus that picks you up from the airport and takes you many downtown hotels: Akal Shuttle Bus 250-386-2525. One way is 45 minutes and $13.

You can also get into Victoria quickly and easily from Vancouver by either helicopter or float plane. Helicopters into the city operate from Vancouver Harbour or Vancouver Airport by Helijet with prices from $119 each way, this will take you into the center of Victoria. Float Planes are operated by West Coast Air, and Harbour Air and literally land you in the harbour meters from the Empress Hotel and Parliament buildings, prices at $99 each way.

Get Around

Walking is an easy, cheap, and fun way to explore the entire downtown area. Make your way from hotel to museum to shops; stop for coffee; stroll along the harborside; grab a pint and some fish-n-chips - take it in!

Buses run by BC Transit, 382-6161 (automated fare information line), form the mainstay of Victoria's public transit network. A `fare zone boundary' divides the service area into two zones: Victoria's core urban area in one zone, and the outlying, more suburban areas in the other. Passengers crossing the boundary must pay a two-zone fare. Regular fares are $2.00 for one zone or $2.75 for two zones; those younger than 18 or older than 65 pay $1.25 or $2.00 for one or two zones, respectively. Bus tickets can be purchased in books of ten, and give a slight discount. Day passes are also available; they cost $6.00 regularly or $4.00 for youth or seniors. They are good for all zones. Victoria, along with Kelowna is one of only two cities in North America which use Double Decker buses in their city transit systems.

Biking Victoria is the most bike-friendly city in Canada. That may have something to do with the very mild winters. There are many places to hire bikes. One place is CycleBCRentals, located at 747 Douglas St. behind the Empress Hotel & in the summer at 950 Wharf St (1-866-380-2453). Bike rentals start at $6 and they also hire scooters and motorbikes here.

See

  • Inner Harbour In the summertime the Inner Harbour is full of artists, buskers and other entertainers. The music performers are not permitted to stay in one place for very long, so the entertainment is constantly changing. It still may seem too long with some of the Bagpipers. Many find it fascinating to watch the float planes taking off and landing also. In the springtime, the inner harbour is filled up with many beautiful flowers.
  • Undersea Gardens, 490 Belleville St (on the inner harbour, across from the Legislature) 382-5717.[9]
  • Royal London Wax Museum, 470 Belleville St, (on the inner harbour, across from the The Legislature) 388-4461.[10]
  • Chinatown, Fisgard St. between Store St. and Government St. The street is decorated with Chinese ornaments including The Gates of Harmonious Interest. There are some great Chinese restaurants, Chinese fruit and vegetable stores, bubble tea and coffee shops and Canada's smallest 'road', Fan Tan Alley!
  • Beacon Hill Park, bounded by Dallas Rd on the south, and Douglas St. on the west. The south end is on the waterfront, with walking path and a view of the Olympic Mountains across the straight.
  • Butchart Gardens, 800 Benvenuto Ave. in Brentwood Bay (at the westernmost point of Keating X Rd, 866-652-4422.[11] A large garden planted in what was formerly a limestone quarry. Quite remarkable. During the summer they have fireworks set to music and during winter evenings, the gardens are lit up and include displays illustrating the twelve days of Christmas. Public bus and shuttle busses can take you there.
  • Legislative Buildings, at the Inner Harbour, 387-3046.[12] At night it is lit up with 13,000 lights. Free public tours are excellent.
  • Miniature World, 649 Humboldt St. (at the back of the Empress Hotel) 385-9731.[13] An extensive display of miniature landscapes, cities etc.
  • Royal BC Museum, 675 Bellville St. (between the Legislature and the Empress hotel, near the Inner Harbour), 356-7226.[14] Open seven days a week 9am-5pm. This is one of two museums in Canada holding the 'Royal' designation, it has amazing exhibits. Prices fluctuate depending on current exhibits.
  • Craigdarroch Castle Historical Museum, 1050 Joan Crescent (in the Rockland area), 592-5323.[15] This castle was built in 1890 by a wealthy and powerful Scottish family who at that time owned a quarter of Vancouver Island. Great architecture. About 25 minutes' walk from the downtown core, or else take buses 11 or 14 up Fort St.
  • IMAX Theatre, 675 Bellville St. (part of the Royal BC Museum), 953-4629.[16] A variety of shows on the IMAX screen. $9.75 adult admission, $7.50 for seniors, students and youth, $5.00 for children. Tickets are not included with regular museum admission but discounted combo tickets are available.

Do

  • Harbour tours Small harbour ferries (about six passengers) provide transport around and a view of the Selkirk Waterway and Inner Harbour.
  • Galloping Goose Trail [17] A few places rent bikes and this is a great afternoon or day trip. The trail runs on a decomissioned rail bed from downtown to Sooke.
  • Whale Watching For those who are a bit more adventurous there are several Whale Watching companies which operate from the inner harbour. Some are located underneath the Tourist Information centre. The companies offer up to three hour trips and have a good success rate at finding one of the three resident pods of Orcas. One such company is Prince of Whales, 383-4884. Prices from $55 per person. Another good one is Ocean Explorations, 383-6722.
  • Nature! The surrounding Victoria area is also an amazing place to explore if you're more inclined towards natural spots. From the Inner Harbour you can walk in either direction along the water to the very popular local Dallas Road, or you can cross "The Blue Bridge" and end up on the Westsong Walkway into Esquimalt. Both have beautiful views of the Inner Harbour and even Port Angeles across the water. If you're feeling more energetic check out Willows Beach, Mt.Doug Park, Thetis Lake or Goldstream Park (access by car or public bus). There are even some surfing beaches nearby if you have a car!
  • Wine tasting There are five wineries withing a 45-minute drive of Victoria, on the Saanich Peninsula, including some estate wineries. These wineries have a wide range of wines including those made from their own grapes, grapes grown elsewhere and fruit wines. Crush Wine Tours, 888-5748, offers a three-hour tour visiting three of the wineries, guided by a friendly and well informed guide.

Shop

Victoria is full of little shops tucked away in every nook and cranny in the centre. Souvenir shops are all around the Inner Harbour. Although people generally think Victoria is a tourist destination only, there are more than just tourist shops.

  • Americans so inclined may want to take the opportunity to pick up a Cuban Cigar or two. Just don't expect to be able to bring any back with you through Customs.
  • Government Street from the Inner Harbour up to Chinatown is the biggest more touristy shopping drag. Best way to go is just to wander the streets but make sure you check out some little gems like Market Square, at the bottom of Johnson St. In the summertime there's live music here.
  • Fort Street is otherwise known as Antique Row. From Blanshard to Cook Streets, Fort Street is lined with small antique shops and auction houses.

Eat

The waterfront tourist area is home to a wide variety of restaurants and eateries, including several English-style pubs. Try the fish and chips or shepherds pie for a taste of England in Canada. The best Fish & Chips is probably at Swan's. For a more eclectic Victoria experience, check out the classy restaurants that surround Chinatown, offering interesting west-coast fusion and asian dishes.

Pubs & North American Cuisine

  • John's Place, 723 Pandora Street, 389-0711.[18] A local favourite with some of the best staff in town and excellent food at decent prices. Comfortable, casual family & friends atmosphere.
  • Spinnakers Brewpub, 308 Catherine St, 386-2739.[19] Within walking distance of downtown. A great place to go for a drink or a meal. Pub: 7 days a week, 11:00-23:00. Restaurant: 7:00-22:30. There is a restaurant on the main floor, and a brewpub upstairs. Great atmosphere and a nice view of the inner harbour, especially in the evening. A variety of in-house brews, as well as whatever else you want to drink.
  • 1550's Pub Style Restaurant, 1550 Cedar Hill X Rd. (between Cedar Hill Rd. and Shelbourne), 472-0047.[20] Typical pub fare, but very good. Great location for hangover brunch; sitting on the patio is quite pleasant.
  • Ferris' Oyster Bar & Grill, 536 Yates St, 360-1824.[21] A large menu and classy atmosphere, perfect for first dates or nights out with friends. Even the burgers are good.
  • Chandlers Seafood House, 1250 Wharf St., 385-3474. A lovely seafood restaurant located in downtown Victoria. Voted best local seafood restaurant many times. Intimate food at reasonable prices. Great selection for all courses. Reservations recommended.
  • Swan's Restaurant and Hotel, 361-3310.[22]
  • Bent Mast Pub and Restaurant 512 Simcoe St. in James Bay, 383-6000. A great place to drink, eat, make friends, and have fun. Talk to Jerry, the owner, for a bit of the history of this old Victorian house and invite your friends!
  • Blue Crab Bar & Grill, 146 Kingston St, in The Coast Harbourside Hotel & Marina, 480-1999.[23] Beautiful harbor-view dining with elegant atmosphere.
  • Fairfield Fish and Chips, 1277 Fairfield Road, 380-6880.[24] They are closed Sunday and Monday and most holidays. Get your chips to go and take them 4 blocks down to the waterfront and enjoy the view of Juan De Fuca Straight. They do an especially light and fluffy batter.

European Cuisine

  • Mole, 554 Pandora, between Government and Wharf, 385-6653. Fast becoming a local favourite, earning a reputation for excellent food and a hip atmosphere.
  • Brasserie L'ecole, 1715 Government St, 475 6260. Open Tuesday through Saturday 5:30 pm - 11:00 pm. A highly-acclaimed fine dining destination with the atmosphere of a classy but comfy Parisian restaurant. Probably the best food in Victoria.
  • Il Terrazzo Ristorante, 555 Johnson St, Off Waddington Alley.[25] Great Italian in a charming patio atmosphere.
  • Pagliaccis, 1011 Broad St, 386-1662. One of the most popular Italian restaurants in town. Intimate settings and addictively scrumptious endless free bread.

West Coast Fusion

  • Rebar Modern Food, 50 Bastion Square, 361-9223. M-W 8:30am-9:00pm, Th-Sa 8:30am-10:00pm, Su 8:30-3:30 (brunch). An expensive vegetarian restaurant with a diverse modern menu, and a nice location.
  • The Mint, 1414 Douglas Street, between Pandora and Johnson, 386-6468 & 361-9223. Nepalese and Tibetan cuisine in a swanky atmosphere, DJs included. A popular spot for students.
  • The Noodle Box, 626 Fisgard St & 818 Douglas St.[26] Another very popular spot for locals. Serves southeast Asian food fresh and in a takeaway box. Wait times vary depending on the time of day, (for example, 20-25 minutes during lunch hour rush), but the meal is worth it.

Drink

Because Victoria’s downtown is fairly small, all the nightlife is located within walking distance. Cabs aren’t too expensive and there isn’t too far to go to get from point A to B. Victoria's police force has an aggressive crackdown on drinking and driving, so take a cab, all you have to do is stumble to Douglas and eventually you will grab one before someone else. But if it’s a “special” night like Halloween or New Year’s Eve, expect a bit of a wait. Compared to clubs in larger cities, cover in Victoria is cheap, ranging from $3 to $10. Fridays and Saturdays: expect to pay $7 to get in the door and another $2 to check your coat. Compared to larger cities, Victoria's liquor is pretty pricey. There is a law in Victoria that requires all drinks to cost $3 at minimum for a serving of alcohol. Expect to pay at least $3 but most likely more for each drink. Beers and shots are about $5. Most bars have cash machines inside, and accept only cash as payment.


  • Lucky Bar 517 Yates. A bit small, but not nearly as costly as others. Wednesday night is Mod Night so dress in your hipster finest. Thursday night's "Hang The DJ" is probably the most tasteful music in the city, and the music-snob crowd reflects that. The crowd is a mix of straight and queer.
  • Red Jacket View St. (at Blanchard). The popularity of this bar changes depending on the day and the month – Thursday might be busy one month, dead the next – but this is generally a posh crowd of those looking to see and be seen. The crowd does tend to be a bit more ethnically diverse. The bar itself is large (when both sides are open) and features a bright fish tank that is very cool when you’re drunk. When this club is popular, usually Thursdays, expect to wait in line unless you come early or know the right people.
  • For a slightly older crowd, head to Upstairs Cabaret (in Bastion square). Above the popular pub Darcy’s, the place gets busy on Saturday after the pub crowd are kicked out at 1am when the (awesome) rock cover band finishes. Upstairs is a good size and plays a wide variety of music. The staff often ignores all patrons but their friends but with a bit of persistence you’ll get a drink.
  • The younger crowd tends to head to Plan B - a bar where the name really says it all. If everywhere else is full, head to this bar as the last resort. If you're into hot young girls and you can stand awful top-40 music, this place is for you. And everyone should go at least once on one of their free nights to check out the LCD dancefloor - apparently it's spectacular.
  • One of the most popular spots is Legends (on Douglas). It can get quite busy and have long lines ups so plan ahead. Underneath the large sports bar The Sticky Wicket, Legends is a basement nightclub with a huge dance floor. This place isn't for music snobs - the music is not mixed, is very radio-pop-top40, and the sound system is badly-calibrated. The crowd is a mix of bar stars and homophobes from Victoria's working class. On a busy night expect to be pushed and shoved because it gets FULL. The pub upstairs is a great choice for a more low-key night of drinking and pool and attracts a much older crowd to the dance sections open some nights.
  • For rock and 80s fans, go to Evolution at 502 Discovery. They play classic and modern rock and that’s it. 80’s night on Wednesday’s is especially popular and the drinks tend to be a bit cheaper. The crowd is really mixed and rowdy.
  • If you want trashy fun then the Boom Boom Room on Wharf is where you go. It features a Monday night wet T-shirt contest and ridiculous male strippers on ladies night. This bar isn’t all that popular otherwise and is often just one stop on a club crawl. On your way, see if you can score free passes from somebody handing them out usually on the corner of Government and Yates.
  • A slightly more pretentious version of Lucky Bar is Hugo’s Bar on Courtney St. Get gussied up and fork over your cash because this place is expensive. The staff won’t be friendly unless you tip well and tip often. And don’t bother requesting music – the DJ thinks he knows best. The crowd is very upper-middle class and a bit older. Pretend you're a business person and hit on some secretary.
  • Yet another place to go see and be seen in Victoria (noticing a trend?) is SYN Bar at 759 Yates. The drinks are costly in this lounge but are they ever good. This place gets busy on the weekends but if you can score a table in the lounge the people watching will entertain. The basement plays host to a revolving bunch of comedy/dance clubs so after several martinis check it out to see what is open down there.
  • Victoria's gay crowd, although usually more comfortable at Lucky or Hush, will occasionally show their support and hang out at Prism the “official” gay bar on Johnson St. The music is pumping and special drag shows or karaoke contests are often. Straight people are welcome…sort of…if they are willing to have a little fun anyway. This place is also home to the only good Karaoke night in tow
  • Another “sort-of” gay bar is Hush. The music is almost purely pounding trance and other dance music genres and anyone (even the occasional fake ID) is welcome. The bar is fairly small but you can find it on Government St. This is basically where everybody went after the City of Victoria completely destroyed the awesome rave scene that used to happen here.

Sleep

There is talk of a new "hotel" tax being introduced to Victoria - it is already in place in Nanaimo at 2% as of 22-Nov-2005 [27] but I have no idea when/if it will hit Victoria;

Budget

  • The Hotel Douglas, 1450 Douglas St. (corner of Pandora & Douglas), (250) 383-4157, or 1-800-332-9981, [28] - a cute little budget hotel that worked out cheaper than the backpacker/hostel places for a couple wanting to share a bed; double room with toilet & sink, but shared shower: $45 + taxes
  • Ocean Island Backpacker's Inn, 791 Pandora Ave. (corner of Pandora & Blanshard), 385-1788, or 1-888-888-4180, get-it@oceanisland.com.[29] Open 24/7. Dorms $19-$24/night; Singles $25-$68/night or $150-$390/week; doubles: $35-$68/night or $210-$390/week. There are also monthly rates if you're sticking around for a while. Accommodations are comfortable and this place definitely has character (and an all-ages licensed lounge with lots of live bands and open mic). Lots of rooms info and online booking on their website. They also have summer daytrips and a guide to Victoria & BC with backpackers in mind.
  • Travellers' Inn, 1-888-872-8355.[30] A chain of nine budget hotels in the Victoria area. The one closest to the inner harbour is Travellers' Inn - Downtown at 1850 Douglas St. $50-100.
  • UVic Housing, University of Victoria, 721-8395.[31] Accommodation is available at Craigdarroch House for $60 (including cafeteria breakfast). Most suitable for those visiting the University. In the summer the University dorm rooms are available for $44-55 , or a 4 bedroom unit in the cluster housing for $160.
  • The Turtle Refuge, 1608 Quadra St, Phone: 386-4471, Fax: 250-386-4471, Email: info@turtlerefuge.com.[32] Open 24/7, rates run from $14 for a dorm bed a night to $35 singles. Free coffee every morning, linens are provided, free wireless internet, Laundry facilities, etc. Pretty standard, located in a very small house just outside of downtown (about a five minute walk). If you are looking for a cheap and fun place to crash, this is about as good as you can get.

Mid-range

  • Queen Victoria Hotel, 655 Douglas. Right on the edge of Downtown Victoria and James Bay. [33] An ideal location. $100-200.
  • Ramada Huntingdon Hotel & Suites, 330 Quebec St, 1-800-663-7557.[34] Good location on the south side of the Inner Harbour. Slightly faded rooms with British character. $100-250.
  • Victoria Harborwalk Bed & Breakfast, 427 Heather St, 380-6447.[35] A popular private character suite in James Bay just behind the Legislative Buildings and the Royal BC Museum. A terrific location. $95-135_Cdn.
  • Gazebo Bed and Breakfast, 5460 Old West Saanich Road, 1-877-211-2288.[36] Country manor house near the Butchart Gardens. Quiet central location with secluded cottage and elegant rooms. $145-195.
  • Ocean Island Suites, 143 Government St. 385-1788, or 1-888-888-4180, get-it@oceanisland.com.[37] Individually designed and decorated bright character suites at fantastic daily/weekly/monthly rates. In quiet and historic James Bay, one block from Beacon Hill Park, three blocks from ocean bluffs and beaches and five blocks from downtown. Fully-equipped kitchens, queen sized beds, spacious garden/deck, private entrance, TV/DVD, laundry facilities, free parking, free wireless internet. For prices/photos/details, see website or call. Starts at $80/night.

Splurge

  • Laurel Point Inn, 680 Montreal St. (short walk from Inner Harbour past the Coho Terminal), 386-8721.[38] A nice hotel with a subtle oriental feel to it. All rooms have a view over the harbour area. Free taxi vouchers sufficient to get you to The Bay shopping centre are a nice touch. $250-450.
  • The Empress Hotel, 721 Government St. (on the inner harbour, near the Legislature & Royal BC Museum), 384-8111, theempress@fairmont.com.[39] Victoria's grand old hotel and most famous luxury hotel, designed in the same Edwardian-style as many former Canadian Pacific Hotels such as Chateau Frontac in Quebec City. $350-500.
  • Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe, 45 Songhees Rd. (ideally located in the heart of the city, on the waterfront of Victoria's charming Inner Harbor.), 1-800-667-4677.[40] A nice hotel, with charming staff and a slightly modern feel to it. Beautiful harbor views and lovely harbor-side dining. $130-$350 (CD).

Learn

There are many different schools in Victoria including ESL & Language schools, films school, art school, private colleges and so on.

The biggest school is the publicly funded University of Victoria. [41] Located on a hill within a short walk from the ocean, UVic prides itself on its beautiful campus with tree-lined paths, large gardens, lush green grass and a large fountain.

The school is on the smaller side, with the whole campus located inside a circular road known as Ring Road. You can walk from one end of campus to the other in 15 minutes – and that is if you walk slowly. UVic is home to many international students and just completed several new residence buildings for those who wish to live on campus. Many different programs are offered, but the school is known for its Earth Science, environmental law and fine arts departments, among others. The campus community is very earth friendly – as is the city of Victoria itself – and is a good place to catch cheap theatre, free lectures and small music, art or film festivals.


Contact

Area code for Victoria, as with all of British Columbia outside Vancouver, is 250.

Stay Safe

Due to its mild climate many homeless people come to Victoria to escape the cold, deadly winters elsewhere. This means that panhandling can be a problem. Most panhandlers are polite but there are some that are aggressive despite laws against this behaviour. However there is a strong police presence on downtown streets, especially on weekends at night.

Because all the bars and clubs are very close together, many drunken people spill into the streets at 2 AM on Thursday, Friday and Saturday night and occasionally there is a scuffle. The police usually break things up before they get out of hand but if you’re out and about at this time (or have your downtown hotel room window open) be prepared to deal with all that drunken idiots have to offer such as public urination, shouting and the occasional rude comment.


Get out

Victoria is only a starting place to explore Vancouver Island by bus, car or bike.

Nearby Tofino is famous for its surfing and nature. The small town of Comox and its neighbour Courtney are cozy and full of beautiful beaches. Head to Shawinigan Lake for a really small town and hit the lake in a canoe or the trails by foot. Nearby Hornby, Denman and Salt Spring Island each have a distinct vibe and are worth the visit just to check out something a little different. There is a lot of hiking, biking and camping. And of course for the more city-loving folk ferries from Victoria take you to bustling Vancouver or Seattle.

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