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Vladimir Travel Guide

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Vladimir (Владимир) is the capital and largest city of Vladimir oblast, one of Russia's 89 regional subdivisions. Most of the city is unremarkable, but it does have two or three of Russia's finest pieces of medieval architecture, and is a good transit point to Suzdal.

Contents

Understand

History

Vladimir was founded in 1108 by Vladimir Monomakh. Later it became the center of Vladimir-Suzdal principality, when Monomakh's son Yuri Dolgorukii moved the seat of Great Princes of Russia from Kiev to Vladimir. The city's period of greatest importance was probably in the late 12th and early 13 century, up to the Mongol invasion. Several of Russia's greatest architectural monuments were built in Vladimir during this time.

In 1238, Vladimir was besieged and taken by the Mongol hordes under Batu Khan. The city never recovered fully, and though it remained the pricipality's capital for a century, Vladimir gradually lost its political and cultural significance to Moscow.

In the 15th century the Italian architect who designed several buildings in Moscow's Kremlin visited Vladimir to study its cathedrals. Several of the Kremlin's cathedrals were modeled after those in Vladimir.

Remains of the holy prince Alexander Nevsky were kept in the ancient Nativity abbey of Vladimir until 1703, when Peter the Great had them transferred to St Petersburg.

Vladimir continued to be an important provincial city. In the Soviet era the city was heavily industrialized, though much of its historic center remains.

Get in

Most visitors will come from Moscow. Vladimir lies about 200 km (120 miles) to the east of Moscow. The two best methods of transport are bus and train.

In Moscow, trains depart to Vladimir from Kursk Station. There are several services, but the most convenient by far is the Moscow-Vladimir express which departs daily at 6:00 p.m. The trip takes 2 1/2 hours. The return is at 7:00 a.m., also daily.

Busses depart to Vladimir from two places. Moscow's main intercity bus station is at Shelkovskaya metro station. There are several busses per day, most departing after 4:00 p.m. A more convenient option generally is to go to more centrally located Kursk Station. From there, busses leave to Vladimir approximately every 30 minutes (they generally wait until the bus fills, so they leave more often during peak times). The price is about 100 roubles.

Vladimir's bus and train station are located next to each other, within walking distance of the Hotel Vladimir.

From Vladimir, busses depart to Suzdal every 30 minutes. There are also busses to a number of other locations, including Nizhni Novgorod, Yaraslavl, Ivanovo, and Kostroma.

Get around

Most of Vladimir's main sites are located along or near the main central street, Bolshaya Moscovskaya Ulitsa, which roughlt streaches from the eastern to the western ends of the city. The main tourist sites can be found between the Golden Gate and Hotel Vladimir. The train station and bus station are both located on a side street not far from the Hotel Vladimir. Trolleybus #5 runs from the train station to Bolshaya Moscovksaya Ulitsa and goes past the Hotel Vladimir as well as all the main tourist sites in the city.

See

Cathedral of the Assumption
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Cathedral of the Assumption
  • Cathedral of the Assumption, or the Cathedral of the Dormition (in Russian Uspensky Sobor) Built in 1158, the Cathedral of the Assumption his perhaps the the most historically important of all Russian Orthodox Churches. The cathedral was the seat of leader of the Russian Ortodox Chuch, the Metropolitan, before the church's leadership was moved to Moscow. The Assumption Cathedral boasts some original frescos by Andrei Rublev. Church services are held on most mornings; you can check a schedule and near the enterance. During services entrance is free, though obviously tourists should be respectful of the worshippers. Women are expected to cover their head, and men should not wear gloves or put their hands in their pockets. The Cathedral is located at Cathedral Square (Sobornaya Ploshad), just off of Bolshaya Moscovskaya Street.
Golden Gate
Enlarge
Golden Gate
  • Golden Gate Aside from the Assumption Cathedral, Vladimir's other 'must-see' is the Golden Gate, once the entrance to the the walled city back in the middle ages. A museum inside focuses on the history of the Mongol invasions of the 13th century. The Golden Gate is on Bolshaya Moscovskaya street about 1/2 km west of Cathedral Square.
  • St. Demetrius' Cathedral. Built in 1194-97. This smaller church near the Assumption cathedral has been closed for decades, but the exterior carvings depict the lives of King David.

The city also has a local history museum that is worth a visit.

Vladimir's other main attraction is the church of the Intersession on the Nerl, located in nearby Bogolyubovo and detailed in the 'Get Out' section below.

Do

Buy

Eat

There are several cafes, restaurants, and bistros on Bolshaya Moscovskaya Ulitsa.

One place that is highly recommended is Blinchiki, a cafe which specializes in its namesake. This very Soviet institution survives because it delivers a high quality product. They serve blini of all kinds. Open from 10:00--19:00. 32 Bolshaya Moscovskaya Ulitsa.

Drink

Sleep

  • Hotel Vladimir 74 Bolshaya Moscovskaya Street. R800-1000/1100-1300 single/double. Tel. (0922) 32-72-01. The Hotel Vladimir is within walking distance of the train and bus stations, as well as the city center.

Get out

  • Just a few kilometers to east of Vladimir, in the village of Bogolyubovo, is another must-see, the church of the Intercession on the Nerl. The beauty of this church is not its architecture (it is a relatively simple and modest Orthodox church) but its location. It is located in a large, flat valley formed by the meandering Nerl river. The cathedral must be approached on foot, making the journey something like a pilgrimmage. The church is located on a small hill right next to the river. In the spring, the river rises and cuts the church off, sometimes making the church completely inaccessible by land (and making a breathtaking view).
Bogolyubovo is a small village just a few km east of Vladimir. The best way to go is by train from Vladimir's train station. From the train stop in Bogolyubovo, walk across the footbridge over the river, through the small bit of woods, and look towards the left. The church should be visible in the distance and there is a clear path towards it. It takes about 15 minutes to walk.
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