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Zanzibar Travel Guide

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Africa : East Africa : Tanzania : Zanzibar
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Zanzibar is an archipelago off the coast of Tanzania, consisting of Zanzibar Island (locally, Unguja), Pemba Island, and several smaller islands. Zanzibar island is 60 miles long by 20 miles wide.

Contents

Get in

Be aware that the "porters" in Dar will hassle you for money and expect tips for referring you to "the best boat." If you don't want their help, be forceful. The dock is a zoo -- a prime hangout for pickpockets.

There are many ferries and catamarans that can take you between Dar es Salaam and the Island. Azam Marine is among the nicest available. It runs several times each weekday and costs between $35 and $40. The trip is beautiful and lasts about an hour. You might be able to find a cheaper ride, but remember: you get what you pay for.

The airport will charge you a departure fee of TS 5,000 (or $5) plus a safety fee of TS 1,000 (this is the fee for flying within Tanzania/ Zanzibar - the fee when you leave the country for good is $25 - see GET OUT below). If you decide to take a taxi to your hotel, you can negotiate with the taxi drivers instead of paying the inflated prices that your hotel may quote you for an airport transfer.

Money & Banking

- Zanzibar currency is the Tanzanian Shilling (TS), which is exchanged at a rate of around US$1 = TS1200

- There are 3 ATM's on the island, all in Stone Town.

- A store that accepts credit card payment is a rarity.

- Check with your bank that your bank card will work in Zanzibar. We ended up in trouble because we assumed we'd be able to draw money from our credit cards or buy foreign currency with our credit cards in Stone Town. When we got to Stone Town none of our cards worked at any of the three ATM's and the two places that accepted credit cards to buy foreign currency were both out of commission - one had no more money to sell us, and the other's credit card machine was on the blink. In short: rather take extra cash or traveller's cheques than trust you'll be able to use your credit card!

Get around

Although taxis are available, you will probably want to walk through Stone Town. After all, most of the alleys are barely wide enough for a bike to pass.

Journeying outside Stone Town is most comfortably done with a taxi or a private car, however a network of Matatus exist which service all the major villages on the island. The adventuerous, armed with a phrase book and map, will experience a wonderful side of Zanzibarian life, which all too often is just another photograph to the typical tourist zooming past.

Many hotels are happy to arrange a taxi for a transfer to the harbor, airport, spice tour or to another hotel. Beware, however, as they get commissions from taxis and so the prices tend to be higher. Case in point: Our hotel said an airport transfer would be $10. Instead, out on the streets of StoneTown, there are so many taxi drivers needing business, that we negotiated the first one we found down to $6.

See

  • Zanziabar Island, a.k.a., The Spice Island, was an important stop in the Spice Trade centuries ago. Today, it is one of the few places in the world where saffron is produced, and many other Middle Eastern/Asian spices (cardamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, etc.) are grown here. For about $10, you can go on a spice tour, which winds you around the island, showing you how anise (licorice) grows; letting you sample some of the exotic fruit grown on the island; and allowing you to tour the beautiful plantations.
  • Jozani Forest has excellent nature trails, featuring some very exotic (and large) trees. Even more interesting, though, are the Red Colobus Monkeys that live here. Native to the Island, these monkeys are now nearly extinct. They are very curious and playful and will likely pose for a picture.
  • There are a number of historically important (and frankly, just plain beautiful) buildings in Stone Town, like The House of Wonders and The Arab Fort. It is easy to arrange a simple walking tour with a local guide who can teach you some history.
  • The market in Stone Town is one of the largest, most vibrant open-air markets anywhere. Here, you can find several varieites of bananas; "elephant garlic" unique to the island; the largest avocados you'll probably ever see; and more. Prices are extrememly reasonable. Even if you have no intentions of purchasing food, the spectacle alone is worth a visit.

Before you go you might like to read up on some of the history. This is a good web site for that. http://home.globalfrontiers.com/Zanzibar/

Do

There are a lot of things to do on Zanzibar Island. It just depends on where your interests lie.

  • Stone Town, recently declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the most unique cities in the world. Blending Moorish, Middle Eastern, Indian, and African traditions and architectures, it is possible to spend days winding through Stone Town's labyrinthine alleys; shopping; drinking tea; and visiting the city's historic sites.

In the tourist areas around the waterfront, Kenyatta Road and Shangani Road, you will be beset by all manner of papasi, touts and others wanting to offer you taxis, spice tours, music, gifts, etc. A polite but firm 'No Thanks' usually does the trick, but it can get exhausting. Best thing to do here is wander into the more residential alleys where you won't be disturbed.

  • Be certain to have dinner on the wharf near Blue's Restaurant in Stone Town. Every evening, for just a few dollars, you can sample local fish, food, drinks, and hear local music.
  • The East Beaches are popular among travelers. The sand is brilliant white, and the warm waters of the Indian Ocean are a deep teal. Here, you can:
  • find plenty of opportunities for scuba diving; Rising Sun Dive Center (based at the Breezes beach resort, equally well recommended) is PADI acredited and well recommend, taking divers out onto the beautiful (and un-touched) reefs.
  • swim with the dolphins
  • arrange for a ride on a local's dhow (a carved, wooden boat)
  • sit and stare at the water for hours on end

Buy

Stone Town is a one-stop-souvenir-shopping for the traveler. You can find beautiful textiles, handmade jewelry, intricate wood or stone carvings, spices, knick-knacks, and the list goes on and on . . .

Buy a cookbook and spices. Take the trip home with you!

Eat

  • Blue's Restaurant, on the water, is an upscale restaurant you might find on any boardwalk anywhere. It's for that reason, however, that a visitor might not want to stop in. However, the food is great, and the view is gorgeous.

Kidude, near Emerson & Green, serves traditional Zanzibari cuisine at moderate prices.

Forodhani Market is a nightly affair by the water. There you can purchase 'Zanzibari pizza' or get all sorts of grilled seafood and meat for less than $1 per serving. Some consider the market to be overrated -- the food quality can be mixed and there will be papasi or touts that may hassle you. Still the twilight atmosphere makes for a nice setting to have a cheap meal.

Amore Mio, on Shangani Street, serves good Italian gelati, pizzas and pasta (~ $10 - 15 per person).

Drink

Although it is primarily a Muslim community, small bars are everywhere.

Blue's Restaurant makes excellent frozen drinks; they really hit the spot after a day getting lost among the maze-like alleys..

  • Africa House Ice cold beer and a huge balcony that overlooks the ocean-- great a sunset.

Try the ginger beer - tangawizi.

Sleep

  • Zanzibar Hotel [1] is a newly refurbished hotel in Stone Town. It was originally the first hotel on Zanzibar island.
  • Bottoms Up!, an eclectic, unusual hostel in the heart of Stone Town.

Get out

- When returning to your own country, you will be charged $25 as an exit tax. The customs sign asks for dollars, so it's probably safer to keep $25 in cash for when you leave. Not sure if you can pay the tax in Tanzanian Shillings - and we didn't want to run the risk and find out!

Respect

Zanzibar is largely a Muslim community. Although they are used to Western ways, you should try to be respectful. This means:

  • Women and men should make an effort to cover their legs and arms.
  • Be discrete when drinking alcohol.
  • During Ramadan -- the month of fasting -- travelers should avoid eating and drinking during the daytime.
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