Valles Caldera National Preserve
From MaxTravelz
The Valles Caldera National Preserve (VCNP for short) is a new (2000) and unusual unit of the United States national park system in the Jemez Mountains of north central New Mexico. It preserves a huge volcanic structure of great scenic and scientific value, under a novel, pioneering arrangement that allows it also to function as a working, money-making cattle ranch. Facilities for the visitor are still being developed and are undergoing rapid change.
Contents |
Understand
History
The Valles Caldera has had an unusual history that has given it a unique position among United States national parks. After a long pre-history of occupation by ancestral Puebloans and later Spanish settlers, the caldera and the surrounding Jemez Mountains passed into United States control after the Mexican-American War. At this time it wasn't viewed as particularly significant: a remote, if scenic, area of what seemed to be grazing land within a newly-acquired territory, of little commercial interest to anyone but the old Spanish families that had already settled and pastured livestock there, sometimes in the face of considerable hostility from nearby Indian populations. Consequently, when a bill was passed in the United States Congress in 1860 to compensate the Baca family, a pioneering family in New Mexico with significant land holdings, for the federalization of some of their land, a large tract of land in the Jemez, including most of the caldera, was handed over to the Bacas, along with some other tracts elsewhere in the Southwest. This tract became known as "Baca Location No. 1" and would retain this name long after the Baca family sold it to other investors.
The Baca Location changed hands a few times in the 19th and 20th centuries before winding up in the hands of James P. (Pat) Dunigan, a wealthy Texan who had a good sense for the history and aesthetics of the property. Dunigan was horrified by the environmental damage inflicted on his property by prior holders of the timber rights. He therefore bought out the holders of those rights, and placed most of the Baca Location off limits to development while he negotiated with the United States government to sell the land back to the government under terms that guaranteed its preservation in perpetuity. The negotiations literally took decades, but finally, in 1999, Congress authorized the acquisition of the Baca Location from Dunigan's heirs, as he had died by this time.
The terms of the acquisition called for the resulting "Valles Caldera National Preserve" (VCNP) to differ from practically any other national park land in the United States, in two related senses. First, in recognition of not only the history of the Baca Location but also the fact that the grazing there is economically significant to the region (which cannot exactly be called wealthy), Congress decreed that the Preserve would continue to function as a working ranch, and that it would eventually become self-sustaining through the revenues thus generated, even as resources for public recreational use came on-line. Second, and as a result, management of the VCNP would be done via a "trust" that includes representatives of not only the agencies that contributed land to the Preserve but also members of nearby communities. These factors together explain why visitor facilities have been slow in developing.
The beautiful terrain has led to the area being used as background for a number of movies (some quite recent), and old, decaying movie sets are scattered around the valleys. Some are accessible via trail rides or hikes, but please don't touch; they're scenic, but generally in such rickety shape as to be hazardous.
Landscape
The terrain is volcanic (surprise, surprise) with the caldera rim topping out at elevations around 10,500 feet. (Chicoma Mountain and a few other points along the northeastern rim reach over 11,000', but lie outside the Preserve, on the territory of Santa Clara Pueblo.) The caldera itself has a base level around 8000' and is broken into a collection of valleys by resurgent domes and post-caldera eruptive centers. The largest valley is the Valle Grande, on the southeast side of the caldera; the highest summit within the caldera, and the highest in the Preserve, is Redondo Peak, with a summit elevation above 11,200 feet. Note that Redondo Peak is considered a sacred mountain by a number of the American Indian tribes of the region, and its summit is off limits to hikers. El Cajete is a relatively recent (~60,000 years old?) eruptive center southwest of Valle Grande that is reachable by an attractive trail (see under "Do").
Most of the mountains in VCNP are fairly gentle, although there are a few basalt outcroppings that produce cliffs. These cliffs are not yet open to the public for rock climbing, but similar formations in the surrounding Santa Fe National Forest and in nearby Los Alamos are popular destinations for the technical sport climber. The territory outside the caldera features a vast region of eroded tuff known as the Pajarito Plateau, with spectacular canyon-mesa scenery. Los Alamos is built on the Pajarito Plateau, and many of the formation's canyons are preserved in Bandelier National Monument which abuts VCNP on the south. The drive to VCNP from the east (Los Alamos) side shows this terrain to breathtakingly good advantage.
Flora and fauna
The valleys are grasslands, while the mountains are covered with coniferous forest and aspens. New Mexico's largest herd of elk spends its summers in the Preserve, migrating to lower elevations for winter. Deer and black bear are also encountered, and there are a few mountain lions, although they are almost never seen by visitors. Smaller animals include the ubiquitous coyote, porcupine, skunk, raccoon, and all manner of rodents.
Birdwatching in VCNP is good, although not as diverse as along the nearby Rio Grande. Many species of raptors are present and can often be seen perched on dead timber or gliding above the valleys looking for prey, as can black vultures. Two of the most characteristic birds of VCNP, at opposite ends of the size scale, are the huge black ravens that compete for offal with the vultures, and several species of hummingbirds that may zing past you as you hike or ride. The raptors, vultures and ravens are residents year-round, but the hummers are migratory and head south around the beginning of September.
There are few snakes in VCNP, as the elevation is too great for most of them. However, timber rattlesnakes have been seen on occasion even near the top of the ski runs on Pajarito Mountain (elevation 10,409') on the eastern rim above Los Alamos. The endangered Jemez Mountain salamander is present and could lead to occasional closures of parts of VCNP to preserve its habitat. Trout swim in the streams that have their headwaters in the region, some of which are suitable for fishing (permit system).
Climate
Valles Caldera has a continental climate with four distinct seasons. Winter weather is highly variable, with some years producing a great deal of snow (over four feet of snow has fallen in a single storm) and other years producing almost none at all. Winter highs in the valleys are typically around 35-40 degrees (Fahrenheit) and lows around 10 F, although there are isolated cold pockets from cold air coming off the mountains. December is often the coldest month and can see a few days of sub-zero temperatures at night. Snow in the valleys usually melts completely around April, leading to a dry, usually warm spring characterized by high winds. This combination can create nasty forest-fire hazard in May and June, particularly following a dry winter. Winds die down somewhat by June, which is hot (highs around 90 F) and dry. Monsoon conditions develop in July and persist until around the beginning of September, leading to cooler temperatures (highs in the 80s, lows around 50) and spectacular afternoon thunderstorms that urge the hiker to be off the trails by early afternoon. This is a great time to visit, but make sure you bring raingear and start your day early. The thunderstorms usually die out by Labor Day or so, leading to autumn conditions that are temperate, dry (apart from the occasional frontal storm system) and generally very pleasant. The first snowfall is commonly in October, but snow doesn't start to stick until Thanksgiving or so. Conditions on the mountains are similar but 10 degrees cooler, with more rain and snow.
Get in
Access is via New Mexico state highway 4 between Los Alamos and San Ysidro. This paved road is usually open year-round, although it may close briefly during particularly severe snowstorms. The nearest major airport is in Albuquerque, about 70 miles away by road. There is no bus or rail service nearby.
Fees/Permits
The fee structure at VCNP is one of its many unusual features among United States national parks. Access to the preserve via SR 4 is free, and there are free hikes, Nordic ski outings, etc., from trailheads along SR 4 (free permit). Most activities in the interior of the Preserve, however, are on a fee basis, with fees ranging from $6 for half a day of Nordic skiing, all the way to $150 for birding, painting and other classes that combine with overnight stays at the Casa de Baca Lodge. Most fees for unguided day use are of order $10-15 (youth and senior discounts apply), with some additional cost for guided hikes and skis. The VCNP web site, http://www.vallescaldera.gov/ , has details.
Another unusual feature of VCNP is that it is one of very few major national park/preserve sites at which hunting, on a restricted basis, is allowed -- specifically, elk hunting, as the resident herd is in constant need of culling. A limited number of permits are issued each year, on a "lottery" system: would-be hunters buy lottery tickets ($5 each) that provide a chance of getting to hunt, with the actual hunters chosen before the beginning of hunting season (and paying an additional fee for the actual hunt) according to a complicated allotment system and a random draw of lottery entries. The web site has additional details. Fishing is also on a lottery basis.
Get around
The road to the "visitor center" (really just a couple of huts with offices for reservations, etc.) is driveable (if rough) in ordinary cars, except during winter. Many winter activities, and some in other seasons, will require you to leave your car at one of the parking areas on NM SR 4 and take a Preserve shuttle to the starting point for your activity. Don't feel too skittish about doing so; this park doesn't have significant problems -- yet -- with vandalism of or theft from parked vehicles. (Lock up, anyway.)
If you're doing something that involves travel on foot, hiking boots are a good idea. If Nordic skiing, be braced for highly variable conditions. The Jemez Mountains are notorious for snow conditions that place perfect powder, hard ice, and milk-shake-like slush all within 100 feet of each other. Choose your equipment accordingly; this is a good place for waxless skis, as they're relatively tolerant of changing conditions.
See
VCNP is more of a "Do" place than a "See" place, but expansive views of the preserve can be found all along NM SR 4, which runs along the southern edge of the Valle Grande. Bring good binoculars and a telephoto lens; the valley is much bigger than you think it is. If passing by during the summer, you'll probably have a chance to see elk grazing in the Valle, right alongside (and sometimes intermingled with) the cattle that spend the summer there as part of the preserve's money-making mandate.
Do
Buy
Eat
For most visits, you'll have to bring your own food. Food services within VCNP are restricted to special events such as the overnight classes on birdwatching, painting, etc. There are no restaurants in the Preserve. Los Alamos, about 20 miles east, and smaller Jemez Springs, a similar distance west, are the nearest communities with reliable restaurant and grocery-store service, although the village of La Cueva, en route to Jemez Springs, sometimes has a restaurant and/or convenience store.
Drink
What you bring with you (the checkin sites will have water and, during the winter, maybe hot cocoa). There are no night-life-oriented facilities within 20 road miles of the Preserve.
Sleep
Lodging
Casa de Baca Lodge is the preserve's only on-site option for lodging, and is usually available only in conjunction with classes and other special events. However, it can also be rented for weddings, family reunions, etc., if there are no scheduled classes or other events using it at the time. Reserve far in advance; see VCNP web site for details.
Nearby Los Alamos has a reasonable number of hotel/motel rooms; see separate article. Limited lodging may also be available in or near Jemez Springs.
Camping
At the present time, no camping is allowed on VCNP except for special events. This may change as facilities develop, so check back on occasion. Surrounding Santa Fe National Forest has a number of developed campgrounds; the ones along NM SR 4 are convenient to VCNP.
Backcountry
VCNP is unusual in that its backcountry lodging options apply in the winter, not the summer. A small number of yurts are available to Nordic skiers and snowshoers on a lottery/reservation basis. The yurts are expensive ($180/night for up to 3 nights) but accommodate up to 6 people each and are reasonably comfortably equipped. See the VCNP web site for details on accommodations, entering the lottery, etc. At the present time, overnight backpacking in VCNP is not allowed, but this may change as the preserve develops.
Stay safe
- Most of VCNP's hazards are weather-related:
- Lightning is a common hazard during the monsoon season (July-September) when you are on ridges or in open land, and can occur during other seasons as well. Be sure you know what to do when lightning threatens.
- Winter storms can roll in quite suddenly and can produce not only several feet of snow in short order, but also precipitously dropping temperatures that can easily reach below zero (Fahrenheit). If engaging in winter sports, make sure you're well equipped.
- VCNP and the surrounding mountains have been the site of a number of disastrous forest fires in recent years, particularly in the spring (when precipitation is minimal and winds are high) following a dry winter (of which there have been many lately). The Preserve administration is understandably cautious about closing facilities when fire hazard is significant; please honor the closures, as the Valles grasses burn like tinder and a wind-driven fire can travel a lot faster than you can run.
- Of course, make sure to use sun screen.
- Dangerous encounters with wildlife are rare, but an elk in rut can do a lot of damage to you (closures during mating season will probably keep you away from this hazard, but bear it in mind), and one on the road can do a lot of damage to your car. Drive cautiously, particularly in twilight. Rattlesnakes are scarce owing to the high elevation, but can be found occasionally in the summer, even on the ridges.
- Violent crime is a non-problem, and there are few if any reports of theft from parked automobiles in the preserve. However, some of the neighboring forest land has seen some pilferage. If you're camping in Santa Fe National Forest campgrounds, make sure to secure valuables before heading into VCNP.
Get out
- Adjacent Bandelier National Monument has more scenery, hiking trails, etc., and is more fully developed to support the casual visitor. Although the parks share a boundary, the Bandelier main entrance and visitor center are about 25 miles away from the main Valles sites along NM SR 4.
- Los Alamos is nearby, with some in-town activities (it's still a small town) and more hiking, including some trails (affected by the 2000 forest fire, alas) that reach the ridgeline above VCNP and offer nice views of Valle Grande and Redondo Peak. Other interesting areas in the Jemez Mountains include Jemez Springs, with an interesting archaeological site and accessible hot springs, and a number of campsites in Santa Fe National Forest, some with access to trails and fishing holes.
- Santa Fe is one of the world's great tourist destinations and is about 60 miles away by road.
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