West Sumatra
From MaxTravelz
West Sumatra (Sumatra Barat) is in Sumatra, Indonesia.
Contents |
Cities
- Padang — Indonesia's capital of spicy food
Other destinations
- Mentawai Islands — surf's up
Understand
West Sumatra bounded in the north by the province of North Sumatra, in the west by the Indian ocean, in the south by the provinces of Bengkulu and Jambi, and in the east by Riau province.
85% of the population are Minangkabau, notable in the annals of anthropology as the world's largest matriarchal society: children take their names from their mother's side and, on marriage, the husband moves into the wife's family. Culturally, the hallmarks of Minangkabau culture are their famously spicy food, served all around Indonesia in Padang restaurants (named after the capital), and the soaring-eaved rumah gadang house, shaped like a series of buffalo horns.
On the other hand, the tribal inhabitants of the Mentawai archipelago, a group of islands about 100 miles off the coast of west Sumatra, cling to a traditional agrarian lifestyle that is totally different from that of Minangkabau.
Talk
Get in
Get around
See
Itineraries
Do
In West Sumatra its not easy to get off the tourist trail without language, the hotel performances are pretty contrived sometimes. My experience is as a foreign student and researcher with language facility and direct links to traditional artists. here are my suggestions:- If you can, get down to Padangpanjang 10 kms downhill from Bukittinggi en route to Padang the capital. (Padang is a bit boring but has a huge market complex for last minute purchases before flying out) ARTS: Padangpanjang is a university town and houses the high profile and growing Arts academy STSI, and there are often performers rehearsing or who know of late night village gigs you can find out about if you hook up with some of the local or foreign students there. Either contemporary or traditional performing arts not on the tourist books. If you are around for a while you might even do a deal on some flute or drum lessons. Be sure to cross their palm with silver for their efforts - they are struggling professional artists and students with exams and festival commitments. The tiny cafes around the campus can sometimes prove fruitful for meeting artists. There is also a private library/drop-in centre for performing arts resources if you have such an interest, on Jl Puti Bungsu, where Indra Utama will be able to direct you to more cultural resources. SCENIC TOURS BY HORSE AND CART: if you go to Padangpanjang market you can charter a horse and cart called a *bendi* (in other parts of Indonesia these are often poor runty ponies but some of the horses used here are racing horses working between seasons so you can and should choose a strong wellfed beast to lug your great body around! :) So either work out a fee for a period of time (eg "satu jam" means 1 hour; "satu-setengah jam" means 1 and a half)or just wing it and ask the driver to take you round-about "mau jalan-jalan keliling". "Ke mana" he will say (where) and just say "ke sana" (there) and then just point as you go - its a slow pace great way to look at life in the region - you can go out to Batipuh for example, spend about half your time and then get him to take you back to the market. its relatively cheap and you dont really have to know where you are going. You can do the same anywhere of course, eg from Bukittinggi charter a whole day and go down into ngarai sianok. Dont expect them to go down the main highway though. If you want a faster pace charter an ojek motorbike taxi. some are students and may speak a little english. They charge a lot more though cover more territory and you are probably in bit too close proximity to the driver if you are a woman. They have strict rules on gender protocols and hence will take a mile if a situation gives them an inch; Beware. well... its harmless but compromising. MARKET Padangpanjang is a great alternative market if you find Bukittinggi too intense and huge to navigate in. Sunday is the big market day. Find the aisle in the main undercover building where rows of women dish up dollops of sweet pudding of many varieties. The seated women, each one a matriarch and ive always felt mother warmth and goodwill and a little respite from the market buzz and sell sell sell, as soon as i commit myself to one of these pudding pots, finding a stool park my bum in mama's circle Each one has only one thing combo to serve so just nod and point - most ingredients are the same just configured differently - glutinous rice or rice flour and coconut milk and sugar, coconut flesh or maybe banana or other toppings and red palm sugar syrup - very cheap, and comforting. Stay until you feel ready to face the frenzy again. SWIM IN A BEAUTIFUL WATER HOLE: Get on a bus from Bukittinggi to Padang and get off at Simpang Lubuk Bunta between Kayu Tanam and Sicincin abt 1 hour and a bit down the road. At the turn off there is a bamboo shelter. pick up an ojek there and for a small fee equivalent to a dollar (they are unlikely to rip you off there) they will take you to the water hole lubuk bunta. This spring is the site for the local bottled spring water one of few clean bathing spots with a little waterfall and is a favorite among locals not tourists so please respect that. it is polite to approach someone there to "ask permission" even if they too are visitors. It acts as an introduction. They will be surprised you knew where to come. This is spot where male and female bathe together recreationally (most bathing spots are used in segregation to wash oneself rather than swim.)Either way please dont strip off,you can swim in a sarong or shorts and tshirt over swimmers, take your cue from other bathers. SHADOWBOXING On your way you will pass a village called Tarok which has an interesting triple slatted bambo stage called a laga-laga where on certain nights the men gather to practice a high art of Ulu'ambek an esoteric non-contact spirit form of martial art. If you are interested you would have to ask in the local cafe nearby for Pak (Mr) Mak Yan and mention "ulu'ambek" or "randai". These activities are seasonal and unpredictable but you might get lucky. Gigs or rehearsal always happen after nine at night so plan to come back with a chartered car or motorbike if you want to see this. DURIAN Kayu Tanam and Sicincin are famous for their durian sellers so if you want to sample this famously smelly fruit the most engaging way, pooter past on a vesper after dark, (you will see stalls along the side of the main highway lit up of an evening in high season) and ask for one durian to be opened and "eaten in" with pulut or "puluik" in Minangkabau dialect. Eat it with your fingers with a friend, TEH TALUA ...and if youve chosen a more set up cafe stall ask for a teh talua. dont grimace - bitter black tea poured over whipped egg and sugar creates a custardy flavoured "cappuccino froth" on your tea. The best has a squeeze of lime. My recommendation for teh talua is Desy's cafe in Jl Pasar Baru I, in Central Padang behind the main market, but more specifically for navigating there, behind the Balai Kota (Town Hall) and Police Station ("Belakang Benteng" is a really clear instruction to a driver) The tiny cafe is where police staff eat and Desyeni the proprietor has a solid lineage of culinary expertise behind her. All food guaranteed clean and superb and absolutely local.
If you know you are welcome to add up to date pricings charter fees or addresses i may have been a bit vague off the top of my head, i`ll try to get back wi more detail if i remember. and in advance my apologies to any locals students lecturers or residents who may feel compromised by this open invitation, i trust Wiki travellers will respect your priorities in their sincere pursuit of cultural exchange.
Eat
Drink
Stay safe
Safer than most other areas because of a muslim ethic and intact social fabric. keep safe by making friends. The Minang take great community responsibility. Talk to people and they will look out for you as one of their own. I have had video cameras left on a bus returned to my temporary address because the conversation had established links and sense of social obligation. At the same time crime exists and normal precaustions should be taken. Importantly respect their values and try not to travel alone if female after dark. in company with other women is ok. The ethos - the community cant look after you if you dont look after yourself. or if you go places where the honest eyes cant see. So being alone or the only female in male company at night is considered asking for it.
Get out
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