Zurich

From MaxTravelz

Zurich (German: Zürich, Zuerich) is the largest city in Switzerland, with a population of some 364,500 in the city proper and close to 1 million in the greater metropolitan area. Zurich is on Lake Zurich, where the lake meets the Limmat River, in the north of Switzerland.

View across Zurich from Grossmünster
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View across Zurich from Grossmünster


Contents

Understand

Contrary to popular belief Zurich is not the capital of Switzerland (that would be Bern), just the largest city. Zurich has long been known as a clean and efficient city, but additionally has been quite a fascinating city for the last ten years. This has a lot to do with the liberalization of the culture, party and gastronomy sector and a much more cosmopolitan and hybrid population. Zurich is also known for banking.

The Swiss dialect of German is the city's main language. Many people will understand English, French, or Italian as well.

Orientation

Zurich is located at the northwestern end of Lake Zurich (Zürichsee), at the mouth of the Limmat River which divides the city in two. The modern heart of the city including the train station and most churches is on the west side of the river, while the hillier east is home to the little alleys of the Old Town and the hip drinking spots of Niederdorfstrasse.

Get in

By plane

Zurich International Airport (IATA: ZRH) is Switzerland's largest and busiest airport, run with Swiss efficiency. It is actually in the community of Kloten, 12 minutes by train to central Zurich, about every 10-15 minutes. Several bus lines connect at the airport and provide access to the Winterthur region. Most major airlines fly to Zurich but SWISS is still the Swiss flagcarrier and covers the biggest part of the international traffic at the airport.

By train

Regular trains to other major European cities from the Hauptbahnhof (main train station), conveniently located downtown with easy access to mass transit.

The train station and the connecting underground mall has shops, restaurants, and a grocery store which locals use when they need to do late night shopping, as it is not subject to the closing hours laws otherwise in force in the city.

By car

Almost every highway leads straight into Zurich. This might be quite easy for tourists, but is also really painful if you have to cross Zurich on a daily basis.

By bus

The main bus station is just next to the main train station, where the river Sihl is flowing into the river Limmat. Many busses from and to other European cities, mainly southern destinations like former Yugoslavia or Spain.

By boat

As Zurich is located at the "end" of lake Zurich, it can be reached by boat from other lake villages, e.g. Rapperswil at the upper end of the lake.

Get around

By public transport

Zurich is famous for its highly efficient, clean and safe public transport system. The network includes trams, buses, S-bahn (local trains) and even boats for the lake and river.

Tickets must be purchased from a ticket machine before boarding or from one of the ticket selling kiosks. The ticket machines might be intimidating at first glance, but simply get a "Tageskarte" (day card - valid for 24 hours) for 7.60 Chf by pushing the green button. This ticket covers the whole city and should be enough for most tourists needs. This ticket is also valid for boats in Zone 10, so take a trip on the lake or river with the same ticket!

There are many other special offers on tickets for tourists so ask at the tourist information or your hotel.

Public transport information: ZVV (German & English)

The ZVV is a regional agency that coordinates fares and schedules for the region's different transit companies. The ZVV's website has maps, links to transit providers in the Zürich area, and trip planning information.

Boat Trips - There are two types of boat-based public transportation operated in Zürich: river buses and lake steamers. The river boats operate in the summer months only and the lake boats operate on a much reduced schedule during the winter.

The river buses operate between the Landesmuseum (near the Hauptbahnhof) along the Limmat River and out in the Zürichsee (Zürich Lake) to Tiefenbrunnen. There are several stops along the Limmat River.

The Zürichsee Schifffahrtsgesellschaft (ZSG) operates lake steamers which leave from Burkliplatz (at the end of Bahnhofstrasse). The ZSG's website provides information on destinations and ships. The ZSG offers a variety of tourist-oriented trips (including Jazz Brunch, and historic restored steam ships); a popular trip is to Rapperswil at the south end of the Zürichsee. The town has a beautiful castle overlooking the lake surrounded by a medieval town.

S-Bahn - The S-Bahn is Zürich's regional rail system. The 'S' stands for schnell (fast). Zürich's S-Bahn system provides convenient and fast service throughout the region. Most of the lines pass through the Hauptbahnhof. The ZVV offers directions for a series of excursions on the S-Bahn. One popular destination (not mentioned on the ZVV website) is Stein am Rhein a restored medieval village on the river Rhine which can be reached using the S-Bahn number 29 from Winterthur.

By bike

You can "rent" bikes, skateboards etc. for free from 7 a.m. to 9.20 p.m. every day between May and October at several places in Zurich and year-round at the central train station. This offer is called "Züri rollt (German only)". Get and return the bikes either at the bikegate just next to the central station, next to the "Globus City" shopping centre, next to the opera or at the Swissotel in Oerlikon. If you can't find these places, don't hesitate to ask some locals, they should know at least the bikegate at the central station. The Zurich Transit Company, VBZ also provides information about these bikes in English.

Maps

See

Central Zurich and the St. Peter Church
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Central Zurich and the St. Peter Church

Most of the interesting sights are in the old town around the river and lakefront.

  • Grossmünster old Romanesque church, symbol of reformed Zurich, where reformer Huldrych Zwingli was appointed the people's priest in 1519.
Fraumunster windows by Chagal
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Fraumunster windows by Chagal
  • Fraumünster old Gothic church (former convent) with window paintings by Marc Chagal
  • Landesmuseum history museum
  • Kunsthaus art museum
  • Schanzengraben (a small canal that used to be part of the city fortifications between Limmat and Sihl): From the main station, go to Gessnerallee, find the stairways down to the tiny creek, and walk all the way to the lake.
  • Rietberg Museum Asian art
  • Langstrasse Red light district of Zürich, with more drug dealers and police than usual, but interesting because even this most notorious spot in Switzerland is so clean and safe. Expect some lewd comments when walking alone at night as a woman.
  • Zoo With the new Masoalahall, the Zoo is really worth a visit!

Do

  • Take the Polybahn, a 19th century funicular, up the steep hill for a fine view. Starts at tram station Central and goes up to the ETH. Nice terrace up there. During the week, the student cafeteria below the terrace is also open to the public.
  • Go skiing by train - buy a snow'n'rail ticket (train & skipass) at the Hauptbahnhof during winter months, train out in morning, back in evening. Flumserberg is the closest large ski-resort, popular with people from Zurich, with a good range of runs for beginners and experts.
  • Take a trip on the Zürichsee with one of the two old steam ships. There are a few different routes you can choose from, which will vary mainly in the distance.
  • Go up Uetliberg, a hill overlooking Zurich. You can hike up, or take a train from the main station. Enjoy the 360 degree view from a tall viewing tower (not for vertigo suferrers!). This is also the start of the planetenweg (planetary walk), an 8 mile walk along the ridge with models of the planets along the way. These are scaled down in true porportion to the solar system. To look at Zürich from the other hills, go to the Irchel (Tram station Milchbuck) or Käferberg (Bucheggplatz, walk up the hill and keep left of the forest).
  • Dance at the Streetparade currently the biggest open air techno rave in Europe. Starting at 2 pm, trucks which function as mobile soundsystems start driving along the lake side, starting from the east at Utoquai and ending at the west at Hafen Enge. Every year this event attracts nearly a million visitors. After the Streetparade the party doesn't stop, there are open air parties along the route until midnight and club parties at various locations in town until late the next day, to keep the party going. http://www.streetparade.ch.

Events

  • Streetparade - A funny technoparade, where you can enjoy dancing on the road, climbing on trees and many other things. It takes place on the second Saturday in August.

Learn

  • ETH Zürich (Eidgenössische Technische Hochschule) is one of most renowned technical universities in Europe.
  • University of Zurich

Work

Switzerland has a very strict labor market. You will need a work permission which is rarely granted and in general you need a promotion from an employer. For citizens of the old EU-15 states the bilateral agreements made it easier to gain a temporary work permit. For all other citizenships you need a big company behind you and you must have skills that are rare in the Swiss labor market.

Working without permission can lead to a night in prison and deportation depending on you and the agreement with your home country.

Buy

Bahnhofsstrasse
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Bahnhofsstrasse

For shopping in Zürich there are three different areas in the centre:

  • Bahnhofsstrasse, which runs from the Zürich Train Main station "Hauptbahnhof" right down to the lake. Bahnhofsstrasse is famous for being one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. Here you can get anything from diamond rings to chocolate and fur coats. Globus is a great department store which carries items from many high-end brands.
  • Niederdorf, which is the Old Part of Zurich and expands from "Bellevue" by the Lake right to "Central" which is just over the River from the train station. The Niederdorf is more for young people. Aside from a lot of fast food places you will find a lot of trendy clothes stores here.
  • Löwenstrasse, which runs west of Bahnhofstrasse from the main train station, has lower range shops and a large branch of Migros, a department store chain.

Swiss Chocolate

  • Teuscher
Sprüngli
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Sprüngli
  • Sprüngli, Bahnhofstrasse. From the same company that produces the world-famous chocolate "Lindt". Try their Luxembergerli! A bit pricey at around CHF8.50/100gr but you won't regret it. They also offer great breakfast.

Eat

Distinctive foods: Rösti (grated potato, reformed into a patty with butter or oil and then fried - fabulous) Fondue (melted cheese in a central pot, dip bread into it), Raclette (cheese melted in small portions, served with potatoes and pickles) and Bratwurst (a sausage usually made of veal sold on the street with mustard and a roll).

What other people have noted: Swiss potato pancakes; sandwiches using fresh baked Bretzels as the bread.

Budget

  • Lee's take-away (Preyergasse 8 in the Niederdorf). Stand-up place serving excellent large portions of Asian food. Special student dishes under 10CHF.
  • Molino at the Limmatquai and near Stauffacher for Italian Food
  • New-Point chain for the best kebab in town, (1) at Langstrasse, (2) near the police station by the Sihl between main station and Stauffacher (Kaserne), (3) at Albisriederplatz (4) at Hardstrasse near Pfingstweidstrasse
  • Sterne Foifi Zurich's most famous sausage stand next to the UBS bank building at Bellevue. Red or white sausage for 6CHF, piece of bread and (hot!) mustard is included.
  • Migros Gourmessa large choice of takeaway food in the Migros department store, Löwestrasse.
  • Jelmoli and Manor department store restaurant for a cheap buffet lunch, good salad and vegetables stands. Both at Bahnhofstrasse (not evenings).
  • Rheinfelder Here you get good-value food and rich portions (only try the Jumbo Cordon-Bleu when hungry..). Cheap beer. At the beginning of the Niederdorf (near Central).

Mid-range

  • Rosalys near Bellevue for typical Swiss food including Älplermacrone (pasta with apple purée); excellent cocktail bar, too
  • Commercio near Stadelhofen station (Mühlebachstrasse) for excellent pasta and a busy atmosphere
  • Commi-Halle near Central for Italian food.
  • Swiss Chuchi in the Niederdorf. Classic Swiss food for tourists, but good none the less.
  • Zeughauskeller at Paradeplatz offers hearty sausages, stews, rösti potato etc. in a Brauhaus-like setting. Touristy, but good and large portions. Historical (built in 1487) building.
  • Masala near Stauffacher with Indian food
  • Hiltl the oldest vegetarian restaurant in Europe (from 1890). Behind Jelmoli department store (Sihlstrasse 102)
  • Tibits behind the Opera house at Seefeldstrasse is the fast-food outlet of Hiltl, Europe's oldest vegetarian restaurant. Offers a nice self-service buffet of fresh veggies and fruit and a surprising variety. Try the freshly squeezed juices.
  • Iroquois tex-mex food in the trendiest part of town, with the best margueritas in Zurich. Seefeldstrasse 120
  • Tiffin's great place for Asian food. Crowded, closed on Sundays. Seefeldstrasse between Kreuzstrasse and Feldeggstrasse
  • Lily's great Thai and other Asian food. Especially recommended: huge portions of Thai curry. Langstrasse between the railway and Limmatplatz. Come before 19 or after 21 if you don't want to wait.
  • Nooba Pan-asian noodle bar at Kreuzplatz, a short walk up the hill from Stadelhofen station. Stylish setting, attentive and multi-lingual service and a broad selection of freshly prepared noodle, rice and curry dishes.

Splurge

  • Widder Hotel has a very cool bar - great piano music and very cool red leather and halogen lighting.
  • ZunftHaus Zur Waag - near banhofstrasse - very authentic swiss high end restaurant. To insure your meal does not get cold - they split your order into 2 plates and bring you one at a time....
  • Bindella Great Italian Food - very authentic - on Paradaplatz on Bahnhofstrasse.
  • Le Dezaley hidden in a small street from Limmatquai near the Grossmünster, with traditional Swiss food from the French-speaking Kanton Waadt (Vaud)
  • Blaue Ente at the far end of tram 2 and 4 near Bahnhof Tiefenbrunnen.
  • LaSalle in the Schiffbauhalle, stylish and romantic.
  • Kronenhalle at Bellevue is the city's most famous restaurant where all the glitterati go to see and be seen. Good Swiss food and heavenly chocolate mousse are one reason to go, the opportunity to dine among original artwork by famous Swiss and European artists (who payed in paintings instead of money) the other. Dress nicely, and treat yourself to a drink at the classy bar before or after your meal.
  • The restaurants at the top of the Uetliberg are great to combine a nice view of town (a hike in the summer) and some great food.

Drink

General

Zurich has a lot of places to go out. There are a lot of clubs, restaurants, cafés, bars but also many museums and theaters.

Event calendar: Züritipp (German language)

What to drink: Beer, Swiss white wine: e.g. Fendant. Swiss red wine is not overly recommended: Spanish red wine is generally good value here. At apéro time (after work), you will find many people drinking a Cüpli (glass of sparkling wine).

Bars (centre)

  • Nachtflug stylish, coffee and some snacks during the day, large choice of drinks at night. Stüssihofstatt 4 (Niederdorf).
  • Outback Lodge near Stadelhofen station. Australian in theme, drinks and food, but also well visited by the locals.
  • Blue Note jazz club, quite expensive but good atmosphere. Stockerstrasse 45.
  • James Joyce bar where the writer himself used to go. Now mostly frequented by bankers. Pelikanstrasse 8.
  • Oliver Twist is a Irish- / British-style pub with a good atmosphere, many English-speaking foreigners, own small court. Rindermarkt 6.
  • Öpfelchammere (apple chamber). Not a real pub or café: they only serve wine or water. But if you succeed in climbing over the roof beams, you get a free glass of wine to drink hanging upside down and you can mark your name into the wood afterwards. Rindermarkt 12.
  • Widder bar by far the best stocked whisky bar in town. In the famous hotel of the same name. Widdergasse 6.
  • Corazón, Zähringerplatz 11, +41 1 261 09 59. A Spanish themed bar with a good selection of wines and excellent service.

Bars (Kreis 4 & 5 and beyond)

Kreis 4 & 5 are two areas west of central Zurich, probably the most interesting & colourful.

Kreis 4 (west Zurich)
  • Casablanca bar at the Langstrasse near Helvetiaplatz
  • Riffraff cinema bar attracting a largely alternative crowd, Neugasse 57, near Langstrasse
  • Xenix small arthouse cinema with busy beer garden in summer, the choice of students, bohemians & bicycle messengers posing with their fixies, Kanzleistrasse 56 by Helvetiaplatz
  • Total Bar tiny bar serving a range of Zurich's microbrews, always good music, Tellstrasse 19 (a block east of the Langstrasse)
  • El Lokal bar, restuarant & intimate gig venue attracting alternative crowd, "soccer vs elvis vs che guevara" themed, Gessnerallee 11 on the Sihl
Kreis 5 (north west Zurich)
  • 4. Akt for teens and twens near Escher-Wyss Platz
  • Hard One roof lounge on top the Cinemax complex, older crowd, very expensive but stylish, near Escher-Wyss Platz
  • Moods jazz club in the Schiffbau complex, concerts on Saturdays, in the Schiffsbau near Escher-Wyss Platz

Clubs

Zurich has proportionally more clubs than any other city in Europe. You will find anything from very "fancy" Clubs to places you can just chill. If you want, you can go to a club every night. There is always a Club that has a party going, and the Zurich young things make sure to splash all their income on going out.

  • Labyrinth Club is one of the most renowned for hardcore dancers on an overdose. Exceedingly gay after 4am. Flurstrasse 95.

Three of the most renowned clubs are converted parts of the old Toni dairy factory at Förrlibuckstrasse:

  • Toni Molkerei
  • Dachkantine ("roof canteen", closed down February 2006)
  • Rohstofflager ("raw material storage"). This one also does concerts.

A lot of Clubs are located in the so called Zurich West (District 5)

  • X-Tra The probably biggest Club near the Limmatplatz
  • Hive Club (former Club UG)
  • Code Club
  • Indochine
  • K5-Club
  • Säulenhalle

Daily Eventcalender: Usgang.ch (German) This internet site features a Calender which lists all the parties that are on everyday. Very good to decide where to go before you actually leave for the evening.

Gay and Lesbian travellers

  • Rathauscafé. Coffee and a croissant in the morning, moving over to sparkling wine in the afternoon and early evening. Nice terrace in the summer. Mixed crowd, friendly service. Limmatquai.
  • Cranberry opposite Rathauscafé Very crowded on Fridays and Saturdays 20-24 before the boys head to the clubs.
  • Barfüsser once Europe's oldest gay bar, it has now been converted into a fancy and large lounge and sushi place. More relaxed atmosphere, mixed crowd. Spitalgasse 4.
  • T&M Disco club and Aaaah house club, open most days but only crowded on Friday and Saturday. Share the same house and entry ticket at Marktgasse 14, you can switch atmosphere as much as you like. 23CHF cover charge on busy nights. http://www.gaybar.ch
  • Sunday trash Gay and Lesbian party in Labor bar, Schiffbaustrasse. Place to be on Sunday night, 21-03h. 10CHF cover charge.
  • http://www.gayagenda.ch/

Sleep

Zurich is the financial center of Switzerland and most travellers come with an expense account. The hospitality sector focuses therefore mostly on the 4 and 5 star sector. Zurich is known for it's superb hotels but these won't come cheap. Best is to go on a company rate because rack rates are sometimes ridiculous.

Budget

  • City Backpacker/Hotel Biber, Niederdorfstr 5, +41 44 251 90 15 (email: sleep@city-backpacker.ch). Probably the most convenient hostel for backpackers. In the center of the city with dormitory beds for 31 Chf. There are shared bathroom and cooking areas. http://www.city-backpacker.ch/
  • Youth hostel, Mutschellenstrasse 114, +41 43 399 78 00, (email: zuerich@youthhostel.ch). A bit off the very center of Zurich, but still in good reach of the main city. Prices starting from 35 Chf for dormitory bed including breakfast. http://www.youthhostel.ch/zuerich
  • Martahaus, Zaehringerstrasse 36, +41 44 251 45 50 (Fax +41 44 251 45 40, email: info@martahaus.ch). A "clean and friendly" place which doubles as a hostel and a one-star hotel, this is one of the few hotels in Zurich which goes out of its way to proclaim itself gay-friendly. They also have weekly and monthly rates for rooms as well as a couple of studio apartments. 38-150 Chf (dormitory bed to double room with a shower). http://www.martahaus.ch/
  • ZicZac Rock-Hotel, Marktgasse 17, +41 44 261 21 81 (email: rockhotel@ziczac.ch). One of the cheaper options right in the middle of things. It has rock'n'roll 'theme' rooms (generally just the name of the room and a photo on the wall). Good, relaxed atmosphere in an old and slightly worn-down building. 100-200CHF (double w/wout private bath). http://www.ziczac.ch/rockhotel/
  • Otter, Oberdorfstr, 7, +41 44 251 22 07 (Fax: +41 44 251 22 75). Now this is a good hotel for the price! The rooms have been decorated with the kind of care that one normally expects in a much more expensive hotel, each with its own theme. You can choose from the jungle room with its hammock, or the pink Carmen, or go for the top floor apartment. Each floor's three rooms share a bath, shower and toilet (WC), with the exception of the apartment which has its own shower. 90-100 Chf for a single room, 130-160 for a double, and 180 for the apartment (more with more people). http://www.wueste.ch/
  • Hotel Splendid, Rosengasse 5. This hotel is relatively cheap. The rooms are ok and clean, but not very luxurious. Private showers and bathrooms are not available, you share with your floor. What is really great is the location, right close to the Gemüsebrücke and the city center! 60Chf (double room). http://www.hotelsplendid.ch/

Mid-range

Splurge

  • Hotel Widder, Rennweg 7, +41 44 224 25 26, Best hotel in town, known for excellent service and unique location in the old town but just 1-2 min from Bahnhofstrasse
  • Hotel zum Storchen, Am Weinplatz 2, +41 44 227 27 27, Only hotel direct at the river Limmat with exclusive restaurant
  • Baur en lac, Talstrasse 1, +41 44 220 50 20, Perfect location at the lake, excellent restaurant, famous with actors, celebrities and politicians

Contact

Stay safe

Zürich, like most cities in Switzerland, is relatively safe. Although be on guard for thieves and pickpockets. Carry your wallet or purse in a secure way, not in your hip pocket or a backpack outer pocket.

Public Transportation is very safe. You can use it without any special precautions.

  • Gay and lesbian travellers: Zurich is the favourite place to live for Switzerland's (German-speaking) gays and lesbians and the city is extremely tolerant . The Canton of Zurich was the first to allow registered partnerships for same-sex partners, for example. Gays and lesbians need not take special precaution for their safety on the streets.

Cope

Get out


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